A123 AMP20M1HD-A Battery pack kit

Hi. I dont sell batteries, just kits to build a a123 battery pack. The rest is up to you. For BMS look at Bestech power BMS or contact Linukas if you need unlimited current BMS.
 
agniusm said:
Hi. I dont sell batteries, just kits to build a a123 battery pack. The rest is up to you. For BMS look at Bestech power BMS or contact Linukas if you need unlimited current BMS.
What would be price for 24s kit?
 
Hi I would like a 4S kit for Hong Kong. Please give me the price including shipping to Hong Kong via PM.

Thanks.
 
1st
Got my two recent 24s kits a little while ago .. :mrgreen: ... absolutely beautiful .. coodoos/props. :mrgreen:

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What are others' thoughts on folding the battery tab around to increase the surface area in contact between the two tabs?
A bit of added hassle and complication .. I have no doubt.

It wouldn't really need any 'additional' pieces... nor any changes to the kits themselves... just a bit of a change in the assembly.

I don't think even full tabs are long enough to completely wrap around to give a 2nd clamp on the back side... plus I anticipate the 'S' like folding of the one tab would be extremely difficult... so perhaps I can rule out that , as not feasible.

But , a bit more reasonable might be .. Just folding each tab over and into the opposite slot .. thus increasing the tab to tab contact surface area by double the thickness of the board itself .. might increase the final tab to tab contact surface area 40-50% ... If needed add a thin aluminum U shape to increase the camping created by the part of the tabs in the board slots.

- - - - - - -

Maybe I'm over thinking .. or just can't leave 'well-enough' alone ... etc ... as has been shown already they don't really 'need' this additional step .. nor the added complication to the assembly ... and maybe .. as they say .. if it aint broke , don't 'fix' it. :wink:

But .. I figured .. no harm in asking / picking the brains of others.
 
Glad you liked it. Few things to consider.
1. By folding a tab you will increase thickness at the compression point but current will travel by the same cross sectional area to the cell itself.
2. If A123 welds single layer of the tab, must be good for them, should be good enough for us :)
3. I have tested this up to 210amps, no heating occurred at cell tab points, not even a bit. Cell temps increased but series interconnects staid cool.
4. Think of the way 18650 are spotwelded with .15mm nickel strip with few welds and questionable contact area for the rest of the strip.
Upload some photos of your pack when you done.
 
I can vouch for Agniusm kits. Extremely high quality. Mine has been going for over 2 years with a 12S split A123 AMP20 battery. I have taken it out of circulation so I can replace 2 cells. This is possible because of his kit design. Absolutely fine design and I would not hesitate to buy his kits again. All we need are good quality affordable AMP 20 cells.
otherDoc
 
agniusm said:
Upload some photos of your pack when you done.

As requested .. Attached are some pics of the two 24s kits .. and the initial dry fit of the two of them into the modified 2000 Honda Insight IMA battery case .. Will be adding aluminum fins between cells .. which will fill the remaining side to side gap in case.

Project is not yet 100% complete .. I'm a turtle .. but when it is all finished the kits will not be externally visible.

Without the fins between the cells 50 cells could be fit in a modified OEM IMA battery case .. with the fins I am fitting 48 cells via the two 24s kits.

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Attached same pictures bellow .. Was messaged that there were not loading correctly for some people.
 

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agniusm said:
Glad you liked it. Few things to consider.
1. By folding a tab you will increase thickness at the compression point but current will travel by the same cross sectional area to the cell itself.
2. If A123 welds single layer of the tab, must be good for them, should be good enough for us :)
3. I have tested this up to 210amps, no heating occurred at cell tab points, not even a bit. Cell temps increased but series interconnects staid cool.
4. Think of the way 18650 are spotwelded with .15mm nickel strip with few welds and questionable contact area for the rest of the strip.
Upload some photos of your pack when you done.



I know this is an old thread when you built these kits, but is it still possible to get a kit to build a 4S pack with A123 batteries. I need something super light weight for my race car. Thanks.
 
So this might be a dead thread revived by the last post....Are these for sales? Specifically curious what (2) 24s kits would cost.
 
A123 20ah 24s a great cell ,heavy. 1,024 cycles 4.5 years @ 90amps. No bms so can't use my balance charger as most time it's always in balance. charge to 3.5v and have run down to 68v twice it didn't like, but came but mostly. Plus can take high charge rate and high regen.
 
Kin said:
So this might be a dead thread revived by the last post....Are these for sales? Specifically curious what (2) 24s kits would cost.

There is little interest in these. I get 1-2 requests a year and i am sending out my last of the last bits to someone requested 4S for car battery with custom made brass blocks. There are all the files needed to build one couple pages back. I probably could run a small batch if enough folks express desire by offering payment in advance. The prices are in sales thread, at least they were like that couple of years back.

Regards
 
I modified agniusm's 4s design for my purposes. The idea is to use broaching nuts. KFS2-832 specifically. https://www.pemnet.com/fastening_products/pdf/kdata.pdf

So the holes have been widened out for the nuts. Additionally I have widened out and adjusted the traces, and increased the board size.

I've used the broaching nuts and cut pieces of FR4 previously with success, but thought this might work out better.

4S_broach_rev1.jpg

If anyone's interested, and with agniusm's approval, I could share these files. I am presently waiting for the fab to send me my first run of boards, so I may have did something wrong. Hopefully the holes are the right size.
 
regmeister said:
I modified agniusm's 4s design for my purposes. The idea is to use broaching nuts. KFS2-832 specifically. https://www.pemnet.com/fastening_products/pdf/kdata.pdf

So the holes have been widened out for the nuts. Additionally I have widened out and adjusted the traces, and increased the board size.

I've used the broaching nuts and cut pieces of FR4 previously with success, but thought this might work out better.

4S_broach_rev1.jpg

If anyone's interested, and with agniusm's approval, I could share these files. I am presently waiting for the fab to send me my first run of boards, so I may have did something wrong. Hopefully the holes are the right size.

Never thoight this would still be relevant :)
Have you thout about broaching nut overlap will interfere with slot? You might block it with the nuts inserted.
BTW. Use it in any shape or form you like, its published so you can do whatever you like. Very nice of you to ask though, so thank you
 
Thanks. It was super nice for you to share the files.

I thought I had thought it through, but maybe not. lol.
The holes are 6.35mm. Nut overhang is 0.5mm.

Not sure what the slots are. But I didn't think to measure. I was sidetracked with creating an acceptable gerber. I ended up deleting extra points on each of the slots to allow oshpark to accept my file.

Hoping it won't be an issue. I think I have some long needle nose, so maybe I can press in the broaches, after the tabs are in.

Cheers.
 
My first set of boards are no good. My holes were too close to the edges, and the nuts would obscure the slots too, as Agnisium suggested. I also masked the traces by mistake. :oops:

I went with oshpark's thinner boards with heavier copper too. Which I will also not do again. Likely won't use oshpark next time, as they just put them unprotected in an express envelope.

Oh well. Back to the drawing board.
 
regmeister said:
My first set of boards are no good. My holes were too close to the edges, and the nuts would obscure the slots too, as Agnisium suggested. I also masked the traces by mistake. :oops:

I went with oshpark's thinner boards with heavier copper too. Which I will also not do again. Likely won't use oshpark next time, as they just put them unprotected in an express envelope.

Oh well. Back to the drawing board.

As you are doing only 4S, i would suggest getting some brass nuts and soldering them onto the boars. A bit more work but should be solid. i have tested it and it works
 
Hey Agniusm,

I just wanted to let you know that my 40Ah 16s2p A123 pack using these kit is still working very well! after 8 years at least! :bigthumb:

Doc
 

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That is great :) Mine was working too until my charger broke and i had to use higher voltage one and my 3yo kid plugged it without me noticing and overcharging it. I will be rebuilding it as Lifepo4 are so solid cycling them.
Hope my new kit for cylindrical cells will do just as good :)
 
I blew up two 3010 ichargers a while back. Haven't figured out why. I had dozen's of previously successful charge cycles on the a123's. I was also charging a lipo on a normal power brick charger too at the same time, and lost the bms in the battery.

Nothing to do with your kit agniusm, I just happened along your comment today. Cheers.
 
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