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Another KMX

Trilska

10 W
Joined
Dec 9, 2010
Messages
77
Location
Sweden, Göteborg
Hello Endless Sphere

I basicly been lurking around on this forum for a couple of years, but now it is soon time to take the step.

A step i plan to take with my KMX typhoon, a bike i have been riding sence the beginniing of the summer, 1500km on it so far.
Basicly completly stock exept a bicykle rack, big pannier bags and clipless pedals (a must have for safety on this kinds of tadpoles.)
This bicykle is my only mode of transportation exept public transport.

TYPHOON-FRONT-SIDE.jpg

What i want to achive with this conversion.

Range: 60km (i live in hilly area)
Reability: As stated this is my only mode of transportation exept public transport. It is not used daily but a couple of times every week, Also i plan and will use it around the year.

Velocity: Betwene 50 and 60 km/h, a speed i can comfortably ride it, much over that is probebly asking to much with a stock frame with etro 305 wheels (16'' for those who dont speek SI)

HMI (Human Machine interface): This is a bike. I will pedal it. I am not saying i dont want plenty of power, i am saying i want to contribute to the total power output for three reasons. To keep warm (the westcost of sweden is not exactly sunshine and warm breezes during the winter), keep the aperence more leagal (i will exeed the 250w 25km/h eu regulation. (Of course only in an enclosed area :roll: )), and to lower energy (electrical) consumption.

The Plan so far.


System voltage, planned 88.8V (24s lipo). Motivation that system voltage brings me to the desiered speed with the motors (see below.) Alows the use of switched powersuplies for and auxiliry 12v system. Maximises the potential output of controlers using the IR4110. Also alows the use of 4x 6s 5h turnigy in series (already have a couple of those bricks). more info see below.

Motor. Planing on using either a ht3525 or a MagicPie. Thise motors with the voltaged planed should give me into the target speed.
The two questions are, can i use a 8 speed sprocket? or do i have to go down to 7 or 6? And what rim is the most reliabl? The spoked one of the crystalyte or cast of the MP. The pricedifferens is around 40 euro in favor to the MP. The plan also includes venting the motor (to let mousture out) and rustproofing the stator. A temperature probe inside it coupeld to a CA seems like must have. A set of good tourquearms is also on the "stuff to get" list.

Controler Vbat max 100v, with a low inductance morot as the ht3525 and MP, so te question is: is it ok to use 100V max controler or not. Sence i plan to run a separe shunt derfore a cycle analyst conector is not of the essence. Anyone have any recomendations exept lyen?
Planned current is abow 50A, with wild visions of 100A+.

Battery: Sence i have a couple of the turnigy 6s 5AH bricks laying around i plan to use them (along with a few new) in to a 88.8V 15Ah pack 1.3KWh. This should get me into and abow the range i need, also with not strain the cells to much either. I plan to devide the battery in two banks, 12s3p each. In this way i increase safety, by only conect them in series while riding, the conection betwene them will also serve as a system main shutdown, using an kilovac EV200 relay, this will also serve as an emergency switch.
Where to locate the battery is another question, underneath the seat seem like the best place packingwise, wonder if it will uppset the weightdistrubution to much.

Charging. Starting with how i think to use them. Planed max cell voltage 4.15V. After a ride charge them to storage voltage (around 60% capacity), Before a ride charge up the rest of the capacity in about 30min. For this i need around 1KW of charing.
Using this method i can always in the same room while charging.
Either using a bulk charger (BMSBattery?) together with Methods lipo protection kit. OR, using 2x Hyperion 1420.


Brakes: Planing on uppgrading the stock front brakes to Hygia Multi http://www.hygia.com.tw/liveshop/index.php?route=product/product&path=49_64&product_id=82. I probebly uppgrade to 203mm rotors aswell.

The question is, am i on the right way? or have i messed up somwhere in the planning?
 
Will be very interested in your progress. The KMX seems like a great way to get into a recumbent trike.

What are your weight goals? The Typhoon has a 300 lb spec. I just weight my hub motor 20" wheel and it is 20 lbs total for all the torque arms, washers, HS3540 and Maxxis Hookworm with Slime. What is your budget in dollars (and sense)?

Joe Mc.
 
You mentioned hills, and that's where mid drives excel.

I'm very happy with my trike, a little over 20MPH on the flat, but climbs grades up to 20% without over heating by using lower gears. Probably a little slower than what you are after.

Have you thought about hanging one of the GNG units on the front of your trike? Not as nice looking as a mid drive located behind the seat, but it would leave your rear wheel and it's gearing as is.
 
My original plan was to use a 80100 at around 6500 rpm and gear it down and run it via bicykle gearing. I choosed another method sence of the complexity, and now when you mention the use og a gng drive, i am tempted to pick it again. That system would have givem me an effective speedrange at full rpm betwene 25 and 70 km/h
 
If the Typhoon frame can take a bigger rear wheel it would be easyer to reach 50-60km/h without high voltage. That would open the door for a geared hub.

I run a 24" rear wheel with a Bafang BPM II and 35A controller in my ICE Sprint. With a 15s battery my top speed is 48-50km/h. With 26" wheel top speed was 53-55km/h.
Hills are no problem. Embarrassing sports cars and mopeds at the traffic lights is my favored sport. :mrgreen:
63V/35A is about a high as I would go with my Bafang and its Nylon gears. Mine is a code 11 (7.8 RV), for higher top speed you should look for a code 8 (10.4 RV).

If you plan to get new brakes, check out how the Typhoon runs with 20" or even 24" front wheels. Bigger wheels are more comfortable and the altered steering geometry (less twitchy) will help at high speeds as well. Lacing new rims to your front hubs (or simply getting new 20" front wheels) is no biggie.
There is a guy at the Bentrider Online forum who mentioned in the Big wheel thread he is pleased with the 24" wheels all around in his KMX Venom.

Trikes with big front wheels look quite awesome and both of the guys who dare to run 3x700c and 3x26" wheels on their ICE trikes don't encounter stability issues in the corner (against conventional wisdom).

http://www.bentrideronline.com/messageboard/showthread.php?p=952340
VortexKiller2April2012.jpg


http://www.bentrideronline.com/messageboard/showthread.php?t=90647
IMG_1060.JPG


Charging:
chmn36-8_F01.jpg

I use one of these generic Chinese Ebike 36V/8A, 340W chargers to bulk charge my packs. They come configured to charge to 42V but you can adjust them between about 28V-65V and 4-10A. I adjusted mine to 41.3V at potentiometer VR2.
If you increase the voltage you have to dial down the current at VR1! My old 200W charger (42V/5A) got a bit hot at 61.5V at 5A and worked for several moth but died instandly when I raised the current to 10A at 61.5V. Oops! :oops:
Here you can find the electrical diagram, images, ect of a charger. Pretty much all of them have VR1 and VR2 to adjust voltage and current. Only the location on the board of VR1 and VR2 differ between the different chargers.

btw, my 900W charger from BMSBattery arrived dead. Don't expect to get a replacement fom them if they send trash or the wrong item (they send me a wrong hub motor as well). They don't care.
Since you're from Sweden http://www.ebike-solutions.de might be a better surce. Not as cheap as BMSBattery but if you encounter a problem with their stuff they fix it. Quick!
 
Great input.

Tbh i think i will use a direct drive, it is a little bit cheaper and less complex, and seems to be able to take a little bit ore of a beating. I tend to lean quite heave on components so the less parts that can fail the better. The hills are not that extreme so there is no real need for 15%+ climbing ability.

As for wheelseize i like it how it is now, and a larger wheel would mean a higher center of gravity.

And the weight of a hubmotor is centered in the wheel that is carying the weight, i am not sure that frame itselfe is loaded from an increased wheel weight.
 
I am still not sure on what motor to use.
Comparison list. what i have picked up so far, please do correct me if i made a wrong turn somwhere.


Ht3525
+simple structure
+cooling
+slightly higher efficency
+sound volume
-weight
-slightly more expensive
mac 12t
+weight
+slighty cheaper
+tourque/amp
+freewheel
-more complex aka stuff to brake
-lower effiency
-cooling

Both these at 24s lipo should get me around 55km/h right in the target zone.
I am after around 3Kw. what i am wondering, will the 12t mac be able to handle 3Kw with 24s lipo in a 406 (20'') wheel, or is it just begging for a failure.
 
A cold night bikeride home from dinner at the parents. Over the one hour long bikeride at -5-10C to get home, plenty of time to tink of a "superhuman" system. I think i have decided on a mac atleast... The freewheeling is the selling factor.

Now the question is, what setup?
My target wheelspeed of around 530rpm in a small wheel dosent sound to outlandish.
Should i go with a low turn count and stick to sub 50V, or a higher turn with increased voltage to benifit from higher effiency, and preferbly stick to a multiple of 6s bricks.

BTW i am impressed with the KMX in the snow, it is a mule. Just keeps going and going, dosent seem to care how heavy it is loaded (and this is without electric asist) it may not be fast but it get you there..
The hills are not to big problem either, even tho i am using the stock big appels (now pretty much slicks).

BTW quite interestng when you end up with unintensional slush in your waterbottle.
 
I also have a Tadpole Trike (Trice/ICE T) and am planning on installing the MAC 8t, 9fet controller & 36v battery...somewhere between 10-20ah. What makes you want the 10 or 12t version? I'll be interested to see what you come up with either way as I'm prob still 2-3 mos out.
 
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