Anyone using BAFANG G062.1000 1000W geared hub motor?
- Thread starter pullin-gs
- Start date
senlin
1 W
Thanks, I can't wait to get my hands on one of these little motors!
banshee28
100 mW
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2020
- Messages
- 42
Wondering how much better this 1000W would be vs my current 750W setup? On a Fat tire bike with 35A KT controller and 52V batt.
Also, I removed the internals of my original 350W motor, and replaced with the 750W motor internals, which worked great. Would I be able to do the same with this 1000W?
Also, I removed the internals of my original 350W motor, and replaced with the 750W motor internals, which worked great. Would I be able to do the same with this 1000W?
Deafcat
100 W
s3ss1on said:
Actually yes. I have one myself, fit fine, typical to use some spacers to get it just right.
I'm running it with Grin Baserunner, peak wattage 1500W, in a commuter bike with torque sensing BB. G60/G62 are great hub motors, very reliable, I've got over 5000km on one of these hubs. The internal freewheel and reduction gears are well made, Have also welded up one of these freewheels for other applications with G60, regen and electronic freewheel are easily implemented with correct controller (although regen I would be careful with, since it will result in bi-directional loads on the plastic reduction gearing, which could degrade them if you're using high output and/or regen wattages).
Difference between G60 and G62: a half-kilo weight reduction in the newer part number. Not bad! Otherwise, I'm not aware of any other changes, though a direct comparison of internal parts would be nice (I haven't gotten around to it).
concretefeet
100 µW
That’s a 750w dude. Sorry.Ohm_slaw said:
Dan Rogers
1 µW
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2022
- Messages
- 2
May be available in 190mm this year .s3ss1on said:
This is how my vented G062.1000.DC motor looks after I cleaned most of the old SHC100 grease off. Approx 1 year and 3000w peak power usage. Everything looks good 
Upgraded motor wiring and installed temp sensor and bluetooth logging device to work with app.
In couple of weeks I will upgrade the controller to ~60A (60v still).
Upgraded motor wiring and installed temp sensor and bluetooth logging device to work with app.
In couple of weeks I will upgrade the controller to ~60A (60v still).
Attachments
TuomasK said:This is how my vented G062.1000.DC motor looks after I cleaned most of the old SHC100 grease off. Approx 1 year and 3000w peak power usage. Everything looks good
Upgraded motor wiring and installed temp sensor and bluetooth logging device to work with app.
In couple of weeks I will upgrade the controller to ~60A (60v still).
Wow that’s nice work! What did you upgrade the motor wiring with? I’m trying to replace mine with the grin motor cable currently but it’s been tough
Snacks said:TuomasK said:This is how my vented G062.1000.DC motor looks after I cleaned most of the old SHC100 grease off. Approx 1 year and 3000w peak power usage. Everything looks good
Upgraded motor wiring and installed temp sensor and bluetooth logging device to work with app.
In couple of weeks I will upgrade the controller to ~60A (60v still).
Wow that’s nice work! What did you upgrade the motor wiring with? I’m trying to replace mine with the grin motor cable currently but it’s been tough
Thanks. The G062.1000.DC (6) motor originally came with L10 with thinner phase wires and without thermistor wiring. The thicker L10 with 4mm2 phase wires won't go through the axle. Therefore I used size between those just to go throught the axle. You can see the difference in wire thickness in one of the picture above.
Fishing the cable through is always bit if a task.
Grin has made pretty good video on this subject. I think they used Mac as example motor.
This is the cable I used:
https://www.e-bike-technologies.de/index.php/en/connectors/connectors-motor/higo-l1019-series/higo-l1019-m-s-detail
concretefeet
100 µW
I take back what I said about it being a 750. I took mine apart as well and it says the same damn thing. (I have a 750w and a 1000w) Here’s the kicker, it looks like the windings are the same as a 750w BUT I DO NOT KNOW unless I rip out the wiring which I do not plan on doing until I smoke it or break it. The only difference I can see making the motors a 1000w is a larger wiring gauge. Bafang has been known to LIE about what their motors can actually do and ratings and such. I am sorry for jumping to a conclusion when I don’t have all the evidence.Ha. Not really funny but annoying. I hope you find some comfort in knowing that I was wrong though! Love the pictures and your in depth disassembly. Keep it up. Ride on.
concretefeet said:
Haven't inspected the G062.750 so hard to tell if there are real differences. What I do know Bafang typically uses multistrand winding technique, so for example 6 turn motor may have either 6 or 8 strands doing 6 turns. This way one wire gauge can be used for different copper fill.
Psyrecx
1 µW
- Joined
- May 17, 2018
- Messages
- 3
I just got the G062.1000w 20in 6T motor... My controller isn't a big fan, because it uses a different pin arrangement, I guess. It is a controller from my old C&N/Leili motor. Oddly enough, a Voilamart motor worked just find with the controller, other than not having a temp sensor.
The bafang seems to have the white wire noted as an 'spd' wire. So, my controller can't display this motor's WH, Amp, or Temp correctly. Some of them just flash a number every once in a while, but nothing in that regard seems to work properly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ygQSn2HldE
The bafang seems to have the white wire noted as an 'spd' wire. So, my controller can't display this motor's WH, Amp, or Temp correctly. Some of them just flash a number every once in a while, but nothing in that regard seems to work properly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ygQSn2HldE
FWIW, the motor doesnt' have a Wh (Watthours). The battery does; it's a measure of capacity. If instead you mean W (watts), well, see the below about motor amps--it applies to watts as well because watts is not read directly, it's calculated from amps x volts.
Unless the controller has phase current sensors (like FOC controllers do), then it doesn't know what the motor's A (amps, phase currents) are, either. Most of them only sense battery current (battery A(mps)), so for most systems there isn't a motor amp reading regardless of what motor is attached to the controller.
Temperature, well, it needs a compatible sensor to do that. There are a lot of different kinds. Most motors use simple resistive sensors, like NTC 10k of one beta or another, but to get a reading accurate across the whole range it has to be the same beta that the controller supports (a common one is 3900, but there are many).
Note that if you have the speed sensor output wire connected to the temperature sensor input, then depending on the controller design the speed signal pulses may be screwing with the software (or hardware) and causing it to fail to operate normally / correctly.
Unless the controller has phase current sensors (like FOC controllers do), then it doesn't know what the motor's A (amps, phase currents) are, either. Most of them only sense battery current (battery A(mps)), so for most systems there isn't a motor amp reading regardless of what motor is attached to the controller.
Temperature, well, it needs a compatible sensor to do that. There are a lot of different kinds. Most motors use simple resistive sensors, like NTC 10k of one beta or another, but to get a reading accurate across the whole range it has to be the same beta that the controller supports (a common one is 3900, but there are many).
Note that if you have the speed sensor output wire connected to the temperature sensor input, then depending on the controller design the speed signal pulses may be screwing with the software (or hardware) and causing it to fail to operate normally / correctly.
Psyrecx
1 µW
- Joined
- May 17, 2018
- Messages
- 3
Yes, the battery does. But my system tells how much capacity it is draining, based on amps and volts being used. It just lists it as WH on the display. I'm guessing it's showing it as watts per hour. Probably not the best way to say it, but it works. Also, it lists how many amps, and average amps you've been using. This is the only motor so far that it doesn't show that information for. My other motor still shows that information when connected.
I've disconnected the speed wire, as it's not correct for my controller. I only connected it for the video.
*EDIT*
Interesting predicament... Was out testing the motor, and wheel after finally getting my 9g spokes, and getting the wheel assembled. Rode for a couple miles, and on the way back, the WH and everything else, started reading, again. Temp doesn't, but that's as to be expected without a temp chip. I think my controller might be a bit... odd.
I've disconnected the speed wire, as it's not correct for my controller. I only connected it for the video.
*EDIT*
Interesting predicament... Was out testing the motor, and wheel after finally getting my 9g spokes, and getting the wheel assembled. Rode for a couple miles, and on the way back, the WH and everything else, started reading, again. Temp doesn't, but that's as to be expected without a temp chip. I think my controller might be a bit... odd.
ERP
1 mW
Hey guys and gals, just trying to find an answer to a simple question. Does anyone know if the guts of a bafang G062 rear hub motor will fit in a G060 rear hub motor casing? Just bought a juiced bikes ripcurrent with a bafang G060 750 watt motor and want to change it to the 1000 watt version and was hoping to make it easy. Any help would be much appreciated.
ERP
1 mW
Does anyone know if the guts out of a G062 will fit in a G060 case? The G060 is the 750 watt version of the bafang rear hub motor. I am looking to change my 750 watt to a 1000 watt and hopefully I can do it without respoking my wheel but I think that would be way too easy. Any help would be much appreciated.
Just got one of these. Runs good but with good controller it should scream...