Slim Parker
1 µW
Absolute bliss. Started as a thrift store bike which along the way has got replacement tires, chain, rear cassette, gearshift cable, disc pads, handlebar grips.
I had the bike shop remove the bottom bracket and they said they wouldn't work on the converted bike. OK. Later after the conversion I took in the just back wheel for a sprocket change hahaha.
The first installation, on the second day the motor stripped a gear going up a hill (yes, I was geared too high and going too slow, but not reaaaallly...not bottom cog stuff or standing start). Lucky I got a warranty replacement.
The programming that comes with the stock controller is awful. I go a programming cable and adopted the Karl's Special Sauce riding approach with some tweaking of PAS level settings... like level 1 is for slow maneuvering, medium power and very limited speed... but the main gain is throttle set to "current" and level 9 i.e. 100%.
Any way I love it and treat the motor with great respect. With power comes responsibility. I used throttle only-mode in the lower (easier, bigger rear cog) gears, and pedal assist like a motorcycle gearbox, gearing up and revving up until a comfortable cadence cut-out happens.
I dis not purchase a gearshift motor cut cable. I re-purposed the right hand brake lever/switch as a kind of "clutch", under the left brake. It's just a dummy to take advantage of the cutout sensor. I had to break the little bit of swinging metal inside the lever to stop it from snagging after pulling the lever. So my original right hand brake lever and gearshift combo remains, no cutout on that side, that's fine.
I would not use this setup without such a "clutch". My chain and cogs aren't made for the stress of changing gear under motor power, ever. All my shifts are smooth and microseconds long. It's just like shifting on
a motorcycle.
20AH 48V Hailong
44T (I would not recommend bigger)
8 speed shimano deore
11-32(? not sure) cassette.. (almost never use 11t as a rule unless major speed pedalling on the level)
500C display is awesome.
Some pics....
I had the bike shop remove the bottom bracket and they said they wouldn't work on the converted bike. OK. Later after the conversion I took in the just back wheel for a sprocket change hahaha.
The first installation, on the second day the motor stripped a gear going up a hill (yes, I was geared too high and going too slow, but not reaaaallly...not bottom cog stuff or standing start). Lucky I got a warranty replacement.
The programming that comes with the stock controller is awful. I go a programming cable and adopted the Karl's Special Sauce riding approach with some tweaking of PAS level settings... like level 1 is for slow maneuvering, medium power and very limited speed... but the main gain is throttle set to "current" and level 9 i.e. 100%.
Any way I love it and treat the motor with great respect. With power comes responsibility. I used throttle only-mode in the lower (easier, bigger rear cog) gears, and pedal assist like a motorcycle gearbox, gearing up and revving up until a comfortable cadence cut-out happens.
I dis not purchase a gearshift motor cut cable. I re-purposed the right hand brake lever/switch as a kind of "clutch", under the left brake. It's just a dummy to take advantage of the cutout sensor. I had to break the little bit of swinging metal inside the lever to stop it from snagging after pulling the lever. So my original right hand brake lever and gearshift combo remains, no cutout on that side, that's fine.
I would not use this setup without such a "clutch". My chain and cogs aren't made for the stress of changing gear under motor power, ever. All my shifts are smooth and microseconds long. It's just like shifting on
a motorcycle.
20AH 48V Hailong
44T (I would not recommend bigger)
8 speed shimano deore
11-32(? not sure) cassette.. (almost never use 11t as a rule unless major speed pedalling on the level)
500C display is awesome.
Some pics....
