Building my First electric mountain Board. Need help/advice

[Ender wiggin]

Hello everyone. This will be my first time post anything in any kind of forum so this is a little new to me.

I am build an electric mountain board for traveling on campus and to go off roading. I have selected a number of parts to use put I want your advice on max everything for the lowest price.

I am going to buy ether an 6355 or 6374 or 6372.

I wanted to most power that I could get in a small form factor and this seem great seemed the best also sensored was a must.

For the ESC I wanted something that could pump out the amps around 80 continuous and had to be sensored.
I have look in to the VESC – Open Source ESC Bought here but it is only rated for a continuous load of 50 amps. Can I run it at 80 amps continuous if I heatsink it? The other options are very expensive for esc that can do HV and pump out 80 amps and be sensored.

I will be using Trampa infinity trucks

A cheap walmart board and wheels looks like this:

An arduino and wii remote for the controller and I will use the version for GreatScott! youtube video.

The batteries and the rest will be whatever is relatively cheap. I will charge it with a hobby charger one battery at a time. I am think going 12 s if I can. Hope I did not miss anything. please let me know what advice and information you have that I might of missed.

PS: I am a very bad writer and speller and that is why I have never wanted to post much or ever but I hope you are gentle.

 

[WeeChumlee]

Hi
If you are going with those trucks then then the only purchasable mounting kit I know of would be from a forum member here - search "Nowind".
The kit he has looks absolutely spiffing I must say.
I believe on his posts he uses 63mm motors and the VESCs so he would be able to advise if you wanted to buy his kit.

Good luck and have fun

 

[torqueboards]

I think with the VESC. Sensored isn't needed.

"nowind" and "okp" are running both awesome mountain board builds without sensored.

I also plan on removing the sensored option on my next batch of motors and going with the VESC

 

[Ender wiggin]

Hi
If you are going with those trucks then then the only purchasable mounting kit I know of would be from a forum member here - search "Nowind".
The kit he has looks absolutely spiffing I must say.
I believe on his posts he uses 63mm motors and the VESCs so he would be able to advise if you wanted to buy his kit.

Good luck and have fun

I was planning on actually using his design for my build. I have CAD experience and machine shop access so i was just going to make it myself.

With the VESC ESC i really like it but the mosfet can only do 50 amps continuous. So am looking into putting on a different Mosfet package to get it to 40 v at 90 amps.

 

[Ender wiggin]

I think with the VESC. Sensored isn't needed.

"nowind" and "okp" are running both awesome mountain board builds without sensored.

I also plan on removing the sensored option on my next batch of motors and going with the VESC

I have read and looked into it and at low rpm you want to to be sensored so you have full torque. It may still work well but i want it to work as best as it can.

I would not remove the sensored portion i think it is really nice to have and add a level of redundancy you don't normally have with these boards.

 

[torqueboards]

Sounds good... Please post your results.. I"d like to see your results.

 

[Kaly]

Hello

i've been riding my eMTB for about a year now and have to tell you that it's the most fun.

i'm using a MBS board
Dual hobbyking sk3 6374 149kv motor
Dual torqueboard ESC 12S
Torqueboard 2.4 ghz remote.

this is a link to some of my videos
https://youtu.be/m67FDbS_cFk
https://youtu.be/d4LV4zod8YE

With the VESC ESC i really like it but the mosfet can only do 50 amps continuous. So am looking into putting on a different Mosfet package to get it to 40 v at 90 amps.

about your set up, first you will not be using 80 amp not even pushing as hard as i do on that video above.
it's good to have the 80Amp esc but i have a Watt meter attached to my battery and never, even with dual set up, have register anything close to 80 Amp Current from the battery. so no need to modifiy the VESC.

the wheels hubs on the board in the pic. are not safe, once you start to get at ease on the board. those plastic hubs tend to bend when they hit a bend or a hole on the road at speeds up of 25mph. and introduce unwanted vibration.

for the battery i use 2 this:
ZOP Power 22.2V 15000mAh 30C, this are the same as HK ZIPPY lipoly, just change the connector for XT-90
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231742521268
i have them wire so i can charge them on parallel an use them in series.
this fit nicely in a 409 Dry Box http://www.uwkinetics.com/products/409-dry-box

they have around 120 charging cycles on them and still have 95% capacity. and they give me around 16 miles range and i am 6'1" - 206 lb.

for charger i use a icharger 306B http://www.icharger.co.nz/Products/306B.aspx $ 160.00 usd
pair with 2 power supply for 1000 W of charging power
http://www.2zo-rc.com/ $ 60.00 usd

for the remote do not use the wii remote
the cell phone tower signal will interfere in a dangerous way with the bluetooth on that device.
i know that it have some really nice features, i even use to recommended on this post https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=72989 but had a couple of scare in the streets of NYC and decided its not safe.

the best way to go is with a 2.4 Ghz remote. solid connection and really really good input response, like a motorcycle throttle . the Torqueboard 2.4 ghz remote it's one of the most compact out there and last for weeks on 2 AA batteries. it replaced my HK-GT2B 3CH 2.4GHz Transmitter. http://diyelectricskateboard.com/product/torqueboards-2-4ghz-mini-remote-controller/

for the spark built a XT-90 anti-spark key loop. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=72687

one last thing go with a chain drive.
the belt drive tent to get little rocks in between the belt and pulley, this will damage the belt. unless you can design a belt-pulley cover.

good luck with your built and feel free to contact me

Best Regards

 

[WeeChumlee]

Hi Kaly

OK, you are on my bad list now. Things like this are going to make me poor.
Just love that board of yours, very neatly done.
Promised myself "no more boards", hmm but...

 

[Kaly]

Hi Kaly

OK, you are on my bad list now. Things like this are going to make me poor.
Just love that board of yours, very neatly done.
Promised myself "no more boards", hmm but...

i'm working on another Hybrid board
Let the DARK SIDE seduce you

 

[WeeChumlee]

Oh man, now that one is a beauty.
I just love the board, optically similar to the one I have.
Did you get the board and trucks together?
What setup (gears and motor mount) do you use?
Are you going to use VESC this time?

 

[Kaly]

this is the base

 

[WeeChumlee]

Hey Kaly

Truly is a thing of beauty.
Any chance of a picture of how you mounted the trucks, sounds very interesting and easily doable.
Would love to see your mount design when you have completed it as well.

P.S
Your video of your snow patrol was awesome. Love it.

 

[bruce108]

Kaly
Another way to get your trucks canted is using a bent plate. I am only interested in hard carving so getting the board as low to the ground is part of my build objective. I used an aluminum plate to extend the nose and tail of the current board shown, to effectively lower the board but the added length is not needed or wanted. I am still using the old lead acid battery box and will get a shallower box shortly for my lipos, but for commuting you need a bit more ground clearance.
My next board will use the same plate but with a 35 degree bend to achieve the canting required for mtb trucks. With a reinforced battery box below for added strength or, a strong flat long board would work as a deck and the plate moves the trucks out away from the deck for more wheel travel, like adding cut outs.
If the height of your board feels unstable you could easily try the bent plate for canting. Your board would be longer but you would have great wheel clearance.
I also pulled the springs out in the front truck and de-wedged the back truck for better carves. The carve board tires also last way way longer carving hard than any other mtb or kenda tire I have used. I was only getting a couple of sessions out of mtb slicks and a week on the kenda's. Not needed for commuting but the traction is un real. My board is set up for performance rather than range but lipos are cheap if you want both.
If you want to try the carve board tires, the old 3 spoke mtb wheels are required to fit the wider tires.

Bruce