Cmacewheel M2 e-bike dead

[highinthemountains]

I have what I think is a cmacewheel model M2 e-bike that was delivered to me DOA. The Amazon reseller and the e-bike have disappeared from their pages, I got a refund from Amazon and got to keep the bike. Now I’d like to try to get it running. I’m still reaching out to cmacewheel to see if they’ll honor their warranty, but from what I’ve seen on the website, the seller has to handle it, but there’s no seller to be found. I’ve also reached out to jytcon to see if they can tell me the wiring pin out for the controller that I can’t find on their website.

I’ve charged the battery, connected the battery, turned it on and pressed the M button for the required number of seconds and it doesn’t turn on. I’ve inspected and reseated all of the juliette connectors, measured the battery voltage at the connector as 54.3 volts with the battery power switch on and 28.7 volts when the battery power switch is off. As there aren’t any outside markings, I’m still trying to figure out the battery manufacturer and I’m waiting on cmacewheel before tearing it open to see where it came from. Are these voltages normal?

The controller is a JYTcon® Brushless Motor Controller
VoltageDC48V
Type:YCKS338-001-487
Undervoltage:39+1V
Brake TypeP-
Current-limiting:20, +/-1A

The LCD display had UKS2-V1.7-ZODS 5S-D1231-Y 296 on the bottom of it.

The motor is a CMACEWHEEL CZLD104X 48V 202202215643

I’m wondering if I can salvage the motor and just replace the LCD and controller without having some of the motor’s programming specs?

Doing google searches for this stuff has brought a lot of dead ends, so I’m here for some advice.

Thanks!

 

[amberwolf]

I’ve charged the battery, connected the battery, turned it on and pressed the M button for the required number of seconds and it doesn’t turn on. I’ve inspected and reseated all of the juliette connectors, measured the battery voltage at the connector as 54.3 volts with the battery power switch on and 28.7 volts when the battery power switch is off. As there aren’t any outside markings, I’m still trying to figure out the battery manufacturer and I’m waiting on cmacewheel before tearing it open to see where it came from. Are these voltages normal?

For a 13s "48v" battery, about 54v is normal full charge. If it's a 14s battery, that's not full yet. What does the charger have marked on it's label for voltage? What does any labelling on the battery say?

The lower voltage when off is a "ghost" voltage, and if you put any load on it would drop to zero; it's just an artifact of the way the BMS cuts the connection.

The first thing I'd check is that there is a good connection between the battery and the controller, and that no fuses or breakers in the wiring between them have popped. Examine all of the connectors involved in direct sunlight, where it is usually easier to see any problems (spread pins, corrosion, housing / shell deformation or damage, etc)


TO make sure the battery is actually staying on under load, what does the battery voltage read with it connected to the controller, first with the system off, and next with the system on?

 

[highinthemountains]

Sorry for the delay In replying.

Because of how the controller attaches to the battery and also being encased in clear resin, I can’t get an under load voltage measurement. If I can get a set of connectors I can probably put together an extender so I can get those measurements. The resin is some tough stuff, so it might be difficult to get a probe through anyway. I haven’t found any fuses. The battery appears to be a Hailong, so I’m not going to tear it apart. I’m going to see if there’s an e-bike shop that can do a load test on it.

I still haven’t heard from cmacewheel nor Jytcon to see if they will honor the “warranty”, but I’m not holding my breath.

I have attached some pics of the stuff I’m dealing with.

Thanks for your help

 

[highinthemountains]

I don’t know what I did, but the bike is now running. Thanks for the help

 

[rick_p]

lucky you!