Cyclone 500W kit build

[competitions]

Thanks to eeesickle, wildnrg, deardancer3 and others for answering questions and providing pictures etc. that have already helped immensely.

I managed to get one of the Cyclone 'specials' on the 500W full kit.

First impressions when the package arrived
- the motor felt heavy (3.1kg), the battery pack felt heavy (3.6kg). Being my first e-bike build, I have nothing to compare the motor and battery to and now when I pick them up they no longer seem that heavy.
- no fins in the package like eeesickle received.
- the feeling of dread when I saw one end of the battery pack, see picture below.

Bike for the kit (will get better photo):

All the goodies:

Battery pack:

At first I had a feeling of dread when I saw the warped end piece, then realised it required the 2 screws for the battery pack to bike frame bracket. Relief!

Have ordered the Turnigy Watt Meter. I didn't realise the HobbyCity website calculated weight and could have filled up the order with other goodies for the same postage cost. Tip: read the order page and find other goodies to make up the weight.

On my second order and after realising I could have put most of these on the first order and saved postage cost, I ordered:
B12A1062-06 Turnigy Pure-Silicone Wire 12AWG (Backorder)*
R12A1062-06 Turnigy Pure-Silicone Wire 12AWG (Reserved)*
AM1009x10 HXT 4mm Gold Connector w/ Protector (Backorder)*
WH-6MM-BLACK 6mm Heat Shrink Tube - BLACK (1mtr Reserved)*
WHS-6MM-RED 6mm Heat Shrink Tube - RED (1mtr Reserved)*
T2300-AA Turnigy 2300mah AA battery NiMH (1 Reserved) ordered just to make up the postage weight
OR017-01006-M4 Hex locknuts M4 10pc 1 (Backorder)*
Ordered the locknuts after reading:

The cyclone kit could do with nylon locking nuts imo.
Ger

From the looks of the Cyclone bolt, aligned with http://www.boltdepot.com/Fastener-Information/Printable-Tools/US-and-Metric-Thread-Sizes.pdf it looks to be .7mm and from http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Screws/Hex_Screws.htm that would be an M4 locknut.

*to allow easier connection and removal of the Watt Meter after reading advice from deardancer3


I expect this to be a slow build...!

 

[gerlewis]

One other tip would be to cover all exposed connector spades and also the wire holes from the motor with some silicone sealant.

Also, keep the drip-loop idea in mind (maybe more applicable to the UK!)

The only thing I would change about mine would be having the battery mounted inside the frame triangle if I could get a bracket made.

Ger

 

[competitions]

Yes, agree, I would prefer the battery in the triangle too, but the supplied bracket holder won't fit around my triangle frame tube.

Thought I'd have a chance to start on the bike tonight, so grabbed the bike and went to remove the crank(s) and found a hex bolt... and no hex key to fit:

I assume there is a standard hex key to fit these types of cranks, anyone know what the size is please? From what I can find on the web it could be either 6 or 8mm.
Does unscrewing the bolt push the crank off? If so I assume the crank remover tool shown above the hex bolt is no use on this bike?

 

[deardancer3]

unscrewing the bolt does not push the crank off. REmoval is the same operation as with a nut threaded over the bottom bracket bolt:

You should see some threads on the inside of the crank arms that your crank remover will thread into. Then your crank remover center part screws into the center of crank remover part that threaded into the crank arms. As the center part of the remover contacts the center bolt (bottom bracket bolt), it pushes the crank arm outward as you turn the center part.

http://bicycletutor.com/replace-cotterless-cranks/

 

[JohnH]

That should be an 8mm hex bolt. You can get self-extractors which will still have the 8mm bolt, but a threaded ring wraps around it so that when you unscrew the bolt the arm is forced off the crank taper. I have those on one bike. Otherwise the crank extractor tool is pretty cheap, sounds like you already have one.

John

 

[AussieJester]

Otherwise the crank extractor tool is pretty cheap, sounds like you already have one.

John

Theres a crank tool IN THE PICTURE he posted


KiM

 

[competitions]

Some random pics of the bottom brackets (old and new)/cranks/etc.

I was surprised how tight the old cranks were. Took some effort to get them loose and the noises were a worry, but all ok, no thread issues.

Old and new:

The left bottom bracket and fastener extend out quite a bit compared to the original. Not sure why it isn't a more 'standard' size.

The bottom bracket tool isn't long enough get grip and tighten the left side as that side is very long. Had to hand tighten for now.

New chainring and crank is on:

Top view of new bottom bracket and cranks:

 

[competitions]

OK so today I had some time to get back into it.

Quick question, when you have the cyclone/headline motor (sprocket side) facing you, should it freewheel clockwise or counter clockwise?

Mine is freewheeling clockwise, surely to turn the chainring, the motor should turn clockwise and it should freewheel counter clockwise?

 

[AussieJester]

Cant see how it could be put on incorrectly? the freewheel screws onto the crank only one way, if its csrewed onto the crank it pretty much has to be correct AFAIK

Best of luck

KiM

 

[competitions]

Thanks Kim, maybe my bike terminology is wrong.

I mean the motor itself, it appears to have traction (hard to turn CCW) while I can spin it freely CW.

I would have thought it needed to go CW if batteries were to be connected, but it seems to me it would go CCW instead which surely would be incorrect to power the chainring.

 

[competitions]

Ahhh, nevermind, connected it up and it's fine.

 

[Kevinator]

Its confusing, but I think the correct answer is the motor sprocket freewheels in the same direction that the motor spins. Or in other confusing words, there's no freewheeling happening at the motor sprocket unless you are pedaling.