Cyclone Troubles

[PhilExplore]

Hi

The cyclone 3000w is the 4th kit to install.

1st cheep Enduro 72V bike, way to heavy, PAS could not get to work, wiring never got to totally work – Sold

2nd Hub – Controller burnt out. Only use on flat or when the mid drive fails, which seems to be often, still got that one. Integrated battery into frame, not recommended, removed, modified and reinforced frame, and installed removable battery.

3rd BBSHD – Slow, 72V seemed appealing , but worried about overheating - Sold

4th Cyclone - Controller blew up on 2nd ride, the phase quick connects had come loose somehow, they were not under strain. Motor was ok.

Overall, I don’t like the non reply of emails sent to them, I specially asked for pas and display and they sent Bluetooth which I thought will be better will not connect, done all troubleshooting. No Pas and no display.

I think I will be sticking locally from now on, its way more money, but support does not suck and I know where they are, lol

Not really having fun, I read all the stories about the cyclone and now getting tired of them.

Photo is work in progress, the setup will be cleaned up once I have a reliable working system... Which I hope will be this century...

 

[amberwolf]

Since this is in Ebike Troubleshooting, I assume you have a specific problem you want to solve. What would that be, so that we can help you?

Specific details relevant to the issue at hand would be useful.

 

[PhilExplore]

Do you know if I change the Bluetooth controller to accommodate the display and PAS when there are no wires for those items , I am unable to connect to the Bluetooth controller, I followed the steps and repeated the process from the beginning several times including from endless sphere. Or just get another controller?

The damaged controller has Magnachip Mosfet MDP1991 R812702GE on the blue phase that are reading continuity, so need to replace them, I am unable to match the last sequence of numbers anywhere, I am sure they are pretty important.

I was not sure which section to put it in. Which section do you recommend?

New to this forum, but I have used it for research and troubleshooting.

Any help would be appreciated. Tks

 

[amberwolf]

Do you know if I change the Bluetooth controller to accommodate the display and PAS when there are no wires for those items , I am unable to connect to the Bluetooth controller, I followed the steps and repeated the process from the beginning several times including from endless sphere. Or just get another controller?

I don't quite understand what you mean; there's not enough detail to be clear.

If you need to put a PAS and display on a controller, you'd need to use a controller that is designed for those specific PAS sensor and specific display unit. SInce displays and controllers are not typically intercompatible between models/ brands/etc, it is more certain to work if you get them as a set.

If you know that the place you got the controller from has a compatible PAS / display for it you can buy them from that place, and they should work if the controller works and is designed to use them.

If a controller has a BT option, and has the BT module installed and correctly connected to it, and you have the right version of the app for it installed on your phone/etc, and your phone/etc's OS is the right version for the app to work, then you should be able to connect to the controller if following the correct steps to do so.

If those are all correct and you still can't connect to it, then either the controller is "dead" (at least MCU not working) and can't communicate, BT module is not working.

The damaged controller has Magnachip Mosfet MDP1991 R812702GE on the blue phase that are reading continuity, so need to replace them,

What do you mean by "reading continuity"?

What is the specific problem the system has; it's symptoms?

And what happened just before the problem started?

Those will help make sure that the problem gets fixed completely, wihtout damaging anything else (FETs usually fail for a reason, if that's what's wrong).

I am unable to match the last sequence of numbers anywhere, I am sure they are pretty important.

Some of the numbers on parts are a date code. Most FETs have the p/n on hte top row, date code on the bottom. If you can't find replacements, you can try contacting Digikey or Mouser or Farnell, etc., and see if they have a compatible replacement for the numbers you find on the parts.

I was not sure which section to put it in. Which section do you recommend?

This is the right section for troubleshooting problems.

 

[PhilExplore]

Hi

Thankyou for your answers

I got the controllers from Cyclone direct. I have emailed them several times, no response.

The continuity reading means it has zero resistance and several mosfets has shorted out. Normally they have high resistance when putting a multimeter across the phases and the negative or positive power lead ( unplugged from battery ).

Re : Some of the numbers on parts are a date code. Most FETs have the p/n on hte top row, date code on the bottom. If you can't find replacements, you can try contacting Digikey or Mouser or Farnell, etc., and see if they have a compatible replacement for the numbers you find on the parts. : Thanks that helped a lot

The bike was working fine for 20 minutes ( 2nd ride on the bike with the cyclone ), then all electronics went dead, the bms cut out due to the controller shorting out, my guess is the phase quick connects were not put in correctly and came loose, not a good combination.

I think I will need to just get another controller from them with a display and pas, ensuring to solder the connections really well, quick connects are not ideal.

I will definitely go local, next time, ebikes are meant to be enjoyed and not a huge hassle every couple of weeks or months.


tks

 

[amberwolf]

I got the controllers from Cyclone direct. I have emailed them several times, no response.

That doesn't seem unusual based on various posts around here over the years.

The continuity reading means it has zero resistance and several mosfets has shorted out. Normally they have high resistance when putting a multimeter across the phases and the negative or positive power lead ( unplugged from battery ).

That makes sense.

(I asked because many people use the terms and settings wrong and don't really know what they mean, and/or reinterpret what they actually saw and did so that it means something opposite of what is really the case. For instance, most poeple use the word "short" for any problem in electrical systems when it is not actually hardly ever a short, but almost always an open or intermittent connection or other fault. )

The bike was working fine for 20 minutes ( 2nd ride on the bike with the cyclone ), then all electronics went dead, the bms cut out due to the controller shorting out, my guess is the phase quick connects were not put in correctly and came loose, not a good combination.

Yeah, the RF generated by arcing contacts can destroy FETs, especially if they were operating at the time. If the connectors actually came loose and touched each other or other parts of the electrical system, it could have damaged all associated phases / etc.

If the FETs blew like this, it can also take out the gate drivers. So if it doesn't work after replacing all the FETs on the blown phase(s) (don't replace just some, the others can be damaged and fail later and take out the new ones), the gate drivers are probably damaged, and sometimes this goes all the way back to the pins on the MCU that runs the controller. At that point, a new controller would usually be needed.

I think I will need to just get another controller from them with a display and pas, ensuring to solder the connections really well, quick connects are not ideal.

Which type of connectors were used?

There are many kinds, some of which are better than others. Sometimes it simply requires securing the wires so that vibration cannot loosen them, sometimes it requires specific connectors to ensure this doesn't happen.

Also, soldering is not the best way to make a connection; it's just one of the easiest if done with the right tools, for situations where crimping isn't possible. If you're good at soldering wiht a lot of practice and have the right soldering station(s) or irons for the different sizes of wires and parts, you can do it successfully, but crimping is a better option if using the right crimp-splices and tool, for many connections.