rui_fujino
1 kW
I personally haven't came across any problem with braking since regen brake works so well plus my disc brakes do good job while them being 160mm and 180mm 
disk brakes.. what's best ?
- Thread starter knighty
- Start date
Chalo
100 TW
I have two problems with regenerative braking:
1) Torque transfer features on Chinese hub motors are seriously inadequate as it is. If you make the torque reverse frequently and at a potentially higher torque than the forward drive alone, you are asking for trouble. Even if you use very secure clamping dropouts, you can still break the axle that way.
2) I never want to have my physical safety depend on cheap Chinese electronics functioning as intended. That means having all the mechanical braking I want whether or not I choose to use regen.
1) Torque transfer features on Chinese hub motors are seriously inadequate as it is. If you make the torque reverse frequently and at a potentially higher torque than the forward drive alone, you are asking for trouble. Even if you use very secure clamping dropouts, you can still break the axle that way.
2) I never want to have my physical safety depend on cheap Chinese electronics functioning as intended. That means having all the mechanical braking I want whether or not I choose to use regen.
hydro-one
10 kW
+1 regen breaks axles, broke several, usually just after enabling regen on that particular setup.
Disc brakes, I love the modulation. for technical high speed wheelies, you just cant do that with rim brakes. they are too grabby.
Ive heard excellent things about avid bb7, must use metallic pads....
Magura hydraulic rim brakes??? i know my trails buddies lust after them......
Disc brakes, I love the modulation. for technical high speed wheelies, you just cant do that with rim brakes. they are too grabby.
Ive heard excellent things about avid bb7, must use metallic pads....
Magura hydraulic rim brakes??? i know my trails buddies lust after them......
rui_fujino
1 kW
I've used BB7 for over a year now, they are very good and the best features of all, you can adjust the pads without any tools!hydro-one said:
I believe they are the best mechanical disc brakes system you can buy for ebikes! :wink:
Chalo
100 TW
Both Saint and Gustav M brakes are very powerful and capable, with sensitive lever feel. Any hack mechanic can set them up right if you get a pre-bled kit; hoses don't care about subtleties like routing. Since they are discs, the rotors are more likely than rims to stay out of the mud if you ride in mud, and they won't spread as much filth on you and your bike in the wet (compared to rim brakes). Those are the pluses.
Minuses? They are hydraulic, so any fault in the sealed system will cause them to fail completely. They can't be fixed in the field. They are heavy compared to most other brakes. They are very expensive, and their consumables are expensive. Normal maintenance is fussy, costly, and exacting compared to BB7 or linear-pull rim brakes. Repairing them will cost you more money and downtime than more common brakes, because parts will have to be special ordered. They can't dissipate as much energy as a rim brake with a heavy-duty rim before they fail. Oil contamination harms disc brakes much more than rim brakes. A disc rotor is easier to bend than a rim, and more difficult to straighten effectively. You don't have the broad choice of levers offered by cable-actuated brakes. Some bends and diameters of handlebars won't work with them.
As for differences between Saint and Gustav M, there isn't much from a practical standpoint. If you are determined to spend so much more than you have to, and you are willing to tolerate the ongoing inconveniences of exotic components, then just use the one you prefer the look and feel of. They'll both kick ass in the same ways, and be a pain in the ass in the same ways.
Minuses? They are hydraulic, so any fault in the sealed system will cause them to fail completely. They can't be fixed in the field. They are heavy compared to most other brakes. They are very expensive, and their consumables are expensive. Normal maintenance is fussy, costly, and exacting compared to BB7 or linear-pull rim brakes. Repairing them will cost you more money and downtime than more common brakes, because parts will have to be special ordered. They can't dissipate as much energy as a rim brake with a heavy-duty rim before they fail. Oil contamination harms disc brakes much more than rim brakes. A disc rotor is easier to bend than a rim, and more difficult to straighten effectively. You don't have the broad choice of levers offered by cable-actuated brakes. Some bends and diameters of handlebars won't work with them.
As for differences between Saint and Gustav M, there isn't much from a practical standpoint. If you are determined to spend so much more than you have to, and you are willing to tolerate the ongoing inconveniences of exotic components, then just use the one you prefer the look and feel of. They'll both kick ass in the same ways, and be a pain in the ass in the same ways.
full-throttle
1 MW
Chalo said:
hjns
100 kW
I have tried a whole range of brakes on my bikes, including BB7, Juicy 7, Elixir 7, and now Formula R0. All on disc rotor sizes from 160mm to 203mm.
Give me a BB7 anytime. However, in terms of modulation and brake power, the BB7's are really dwarfed by the Formula R0. Unfortunately, also in price.
Therefore, on all our bikes we now have BB7 mechanical disc brakes with 180/203mm rotors, with the notable exception of my Cromotor Commuter, which has the Formula R0s on a 203mm rotor.
Give me a BB7 anytime. However, in terms of modulation and brake power, the BB7's are really dwarfed by the Formula R0. Unfortunately, also in price.
Therefore, on all our bikes we now have BB7 mechanical disc brakes with 180/203mm rotors, with the notable exception of my Cromotor Commuter, which has the Formula R0s on a 203mm rotor.
1000w
1 kW
I now have Hope Tech M4's with 203mm discs on my cargo bike front and rear, awesome stopping power! http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=73419
With two children, shopping and me the bike will stop very quickly with smooth modulation.
This cargo bike started with Clarks Skeletal discbrakes but I was unhappy with the excessive noise and pad vibration. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=47542
I've also had 6500km trouble free braking with Juicy 7's on my commuter ebike. The 7's have a very nice feel.
With two children, shopping and me the bike will stop very quickly with smooth modulation.
This cargo bike started with Clarks Skeletal discbrakes but I was unhappy with the excessive noise and pad vibration. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=47542
I've also had 6500km trouble free braking with Juicy 7's on my commuter ebike. The 7's have a very nice feel.
h0tr0d
1 kW
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2012
- Messages
- 460
Thank you all, especially Chalo.
I do agree with the "rim brakes are more powerful than disk" because of huge radius, thermal inertia and surface area for heat dissipation BUT modulation, especially front, and water/mud problems I never loved them...
Anyone tried, tested or seen an independent review on SICCC rotors?
My setup is for a 150kmh, 120kg rider plus bike. That's a LOT of energy to dissipate. E=1/2*m*v^2
I do agree with the "rim brakes are more powerful than disk" because of huge radius, thermal inertia and surface area for heat dissipation BUT modulation, especially front, and water/mud problems I never loved them...
Anyone tried, tested or seen an independent review on SICCC rotors?
My setup is for a 150kmh, 120kg rider plus bike. That's a LOT of energy to dissipate. E=1/2*m*v^2
I went with avid BB7,s front and back, with the avid leavers and 203mm disks... don't regret it for a second, fantastic breaks, I can lock the back wheel at speed - and that's a heavy grippy motorbike wheel ! I think I could lock the front if I wanted too... but haven't tried because it would send me over the bars!
migueralliart
10 kW
nicobie said:
I second the opinion on BB7's
I use two 203mm BB7's on the front (KMX trike). And that thing CAN stop.
I also like to use on my mtb's 203 mm on the front 180 mm on the back as I tend to combine regen with front braking.
Just my 2 cents.
docnjoj
1 GW
I use 2 BB7s on the front wheels of my tadpole but upgraded to 180mm discs. No rear wheel braking but there is an attachment for a rotor and caliper. Never needed it in 11 years riding tadpoles. I can stand on my nose and the chainwheel digs in if I need to. I weight 210 and am 6'2" so I aint going over the nose!
otherDoc
otherDoc
wojtek
100 kW
http://www.sicklines.com/2013/06/17/magura-prototype-brake-gustav-m-to-make-a-return-in-2013/
not sure if I said it hear already, but I've got avid bb7's front and back, with avid leavers and 203mm disks, I can lock up the back wheel at 40mph and break the front wheel enough to get the back wheel off the ground (I could probably flip the bike if I wanted)
as other people here have said, once you get to the point where you can lock your wheel... that's as good as you can get
as other people here have said, once you get to the point where you can lock your wheel... that's as good as you can get
MadRhino
100 GW
Sorryknighty said:
"Once you can stop the shortest distance without locking your wheels, is as good as you can get" :wink:
TSAR
10 W
The BB7s are nice, and will stop from 40 mph, BUT, the best experience so far for me has been shimano Saints w/203mm rotors front and back. WOT 40mph - to 0mph in 35 feet with no lock-ups, they have saved my ass on multiple occasions.
They are so choice,
If You have the means, I highly recommend picking them up
They are so choice,
If You have the means, I highly recommend picking them up
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