Must. Have. Torque. Arm. Especially for front drive with regen.
Ebike Noob here, I want to upgrade my 28" Crossbike into an ebike,
- Thread starter Akologi
- Start date
Akologi
1 mW
Oh thanks for that advice, I'll def buy that if its not included in the set. A front wheel falling apart would result into a not so fortunate sudden stop for sure.
marvin78
100 W
As the guy who I would see as the proper authority, can you explain to me the physical differences between the dropouts on my rear triangle and the one's on my fork, or is the torque arm related to something else?
I don't disagree with regen braking, but that's a whole lot more force you're putting through it then with a 250w eu certified motor ( without regen braking unless I missed that ).
i have a front mounted 250W geared motor and no torque arm. No regen thou.
But it has flattened sections on the axle that sit tightly in the fork slots so it prevents the axle from rotating (i think it's good enough safety guard for such low power motors).
And regen - i would skip that in flat terrain, maybe useful when there are long downhill sections...
Finally, regarding the speed/safety - maybe im too old but feel that riding a bike at speeds well over 30 km/h is good and nice, but only if you have a flat wide road with great visibility. Any collision/unexpected pothole/curb at 35 km/h and there will be damage and possible painful crash. It just feels too easy to ride fast but stopping and avoiding sudden obstacles doesnt work that great. So for first ebike i'd avoid the temptation to go too fast.
But it has flattened sections on the axle that sit tightly in the fork slots so it prevents the axle from rotating (i think it's good enough safety guard for such low power motors).
And regen - i would skip that in flat terrain, maybe useful when there are long downhill sections...
Finally, regarding the speed/safety - maybe im too old but feel that riding a bike at speeds well over 30 km/h is good and nice, but only if you have a flat wide road with great visibility. Any collision/unexpected pothole/curb at 35 km/h and there will be damage and possible painful crash. It just feels too easy to ride fast but stopping and avoiding sudden obstacles doesnt work that great. So for first ebike i'd avoid the temptation to go too fast.
Last edited:
marvin78
100 W
Absolutely. I paired my middrive with a mtb so I can take it on some trails. I don't think me riding it at 40km on our separated cycling infrastructure when mopeds have been banned due to the speed difference causing to many accidents with cyclists, is a good idea on the long term. I don't have the excuse of having to mix with faster traffic, so I'm eagerly waiting for my programming cable so I can install custom firmware on mine allowing a street legal mode, and a trail mode.
For those who have to ride bicycles in gutters where the tin cans have such a speed differential there is nothing you can do if someone else acts like a doofus, it's probably different. There are situations where having access to more speed is dangerous, like riding fast mixed with slower traffic, and where speed is actually going to be safer, like when you have to mix with faster traffic.
For those who have to ride bicycles in gutters where the tin cans have such a speed differential there is nothing you can do if someone else acts like a doofus, it's probably different. There are situations where having access to more speed is dangerous, like riding fast mixed with slower traffic, and where speed is actually going to be safer, like when you have to mix with faster traffic.
Chalo
100 TW
Well... maybe. There really isn't very much flat on a 12mm axle flatted to 10mm, and the angle where the round thread meets the flat is obtuse enough to exert a big prying force on any open axle slot. Low torque hubs don't necessarily need real torque arms, but they benefit greatly from closed hole, tabbed torque washers. The closed hole is much more difficult to pry open, and the tab is at a much greater radius from the axle center than the flat is.
It's a very good idea to use a pair of these either inside the fork tips or outside, under the nuts.
999zip999
100 TW
I'm doubling down torque arm and Norlock washers. Ok and chalo's washers. We're inmates live under dire conditions well all that fit.
I'm guessing the wire comes out the end of the axle and not close to the motor ?
I'm guessing the wire comes out the end of the axle and not close to the motor ?
Akologi
1 mW
soo some update, I received the order faster than expected. I did not at sll expect them to ship the entire wheel with the motor built in already, i thought i'd have to attach the motor to my own bikewheel. I really hope everything fits etc... allthough i wont be able to test it out till september, thats when ill purchase the battery.
raylo32
100 kW
Looks good. At many vendors the actual rim and wheel build are optional and you have to pay for that. But there are plenty of kits like yours that come only with a full wheel on Amazon and such. I hope the rim width is OK for the tires you want to use and for frame and brake clearance. I guess if the rim doesn't work out you could cut the motor out and build it into your rim. But I bet you'll be OK with this as is.
Akologi
1 mW
yeah as you said in the worst case i could try to fit the motor onto the other wheel, allthough that might void the warranty/money back guarantee. But i'll think about that the moment the issue arises not right now
i'll attempt to assemble it somewhere in the coming days/weeks ig and keep doing updates here etc
raylo32
100 kW
You could pop the wheel on the bike for a fit test any time.
yeah as you said in the worst case i could try to fit the motor onto the other wheel, allthough that might void the warranty/money back guarantee. But i'll think about that the moment the issue arises not right now
i'll attempt to assemble it somewhere in the coming days/weeks ig and keep doing updates here etc
Similar threads
