ebike vs ICE Vehicle Cost Comparison Spreadsheet

teslanv

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Nov 3, 2013
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Bellevue, WA - USA
Here is an excel spreadsheet I developed that calculates the cost of fuel and compares annual cost and trip costs.

Includes amortized battery cost and versions for both USA/UK (Imperial) & Metric.

You can download the file from here:

http://1drv.ms/1fAR7qw

[edit]: If you want to play around with the spreadsheet, download it to your own hard drive - Please don't save changes to the cloud-based file. thx.

Cheers.

-Teslanv

TeslanvCalculator3_zps7907bfb7.jpg
 
Insurance, rego and servicing are the BIG ICE costs that make an ebike a no brainer in my area if you are within 20-30 Km of your workplace.
 
In my case it didn't replace a car - just supplement it. So I still have the insurance & registration costs for the ICE. - I just use it less, now.

But you are right, add those costs in and it gets even better.
 
Also parking, I can park my bike in my office whereas street parking is $10-$30 a day here.
 
I guess its different for each user in their own situation and country.
For me, in Sydney, the daily 10km commute across the city , would cost only maybe $1 in fuel, but $11 in tolls . Luckily, parking is provided ( actually $20 per month employer deduction !)..otherwise it would be $4 /hr
Public transport (train/bus/walk) could be done for approx $8 but is too time consuming.
So, even keeping the car for long / weekend trips etc, the Ebike would save me a minimum of $12 per day.
 
Yea I am looking at getting an ebike kit, and the hardest thing is finding a battery. So many different prices and it is so tempting to go the lipo route for the cheap prices but the cycle life of them is killer. It just doesn't seem feasible to spend 500-800 dollars on a battery when you could spend 150 on lipos, until I think of 3 years in the future where I would be on the same LiFePO4 pack or on the 5th set of lipos. Tough decisions.
 
If you really will ride 3000+ miles a year, then for sure a ping will cost less per mile than even the cheapest HK packs.

But on the other hand, if your ride is short, you won't go that far. If your ride is short, you may not need 15 ah of the cheap HK stuff.

I end up having both. I do lots of rides carrying 5-10 ah, and ping needs to be 15 ah before it will do very much. Right now I have 25 ah of cheap lico. Enough for really long rides, but most rides are shorter now. I don't need a ping now, don't work, don't commute 30 miles a day anymore.

For me, lico lasts 2 years, then degrades rapidly in capacity. This applies if you use it or not in my hotter climate. I do have some that still works though, 3.5 years old. My budget is for 10ah of new lico each spring, which should keep me going for about $300 a year in fixed battery costs. $200 a year is about what a ping costs. So it's 30% more expensive than a ping, but for me the benefit is flexibility to run big or little battery, or power multiple bikes at the same time. My primary ride would kill a ping in weeks, unless I bought 30 ah. Typical use is hauling a huge pile of groceries.

Pings lasted me 3 to 3.5 years. But they did put out a lot more wh than I ever took from the lico.

Re the savings from riding the bike, you save a LOT more than with just the fuel costs. You are on the right track to calculate the cost per wh of the battery purchase.

But the savings of not putting miles on the car is very hard to calculate. Yes, you may still have the fixed costs like insurance, but not taking that car to the repair guys, or spending your whole weekend twice a month doing your own repairs can be priceless. Very hard to calculate that savings.

For me, I made a Subaru on it's last legs continue for three extra years. Now I have a $450 a month payment on the new one all in. Then gas, if I do drive it. Trying to make the new one last forever, at 5k miles a year or less. One way to look at that savings is for that three years at least, I saved $450 a month. I sure as hell didn't have that payment added to my budget for three years.

So in three years Ebikes saved me $16000? That pov might be extreme, but I know for a fact I saved at least half that in real money I had in my pocket every weekend. $50 a week for sure, in money I wasn't spending on the car. It was there because I didn't spend it at the car parts place, or the gas station.

Of course, that $50 a week was often spent on more bike stuff. :mrgreen:
 
teslanv said:
This is surprising...

Think I'll buy a Ping once the HK LiPo dies.

Here is the Link: http://1drv.ms/1i5EC8m

BatteryComparison_zpsf4e47e52.jpg

Just get ready to pay a mass/volume penalty.

And if your C rate needs are low enough, go for it. Just don't push a Ping too hard (current) or those 1000 cycles will diminish
 
I am actually considering getting another ping to supplement the hk lipo I have now. I actually, really miss my 36v20ah ping and it didn't owe me one cent as I put at least 5000 miles on it...
I don't have a need to race an electric bicycle and I don't need to go faster than 30 mph to get where I am going :?:
 
teslanv said:
This is surprising...

Think I'll buy a Ping once the HK LiPo dies.

Here is the Link: http://1drv.ms/1i5EC8m

BatteryComparison_zpsf4e47e52.jpg
I'm curious where you came up with the 200 cycle life for the rc lipo when most people here that have been using it for a few years have way more than that on them. 200 may be a good number for rc use where the amp draw is 10c or more, but for ebike use where the amp draw is mostly 2-3C, you're way under rating it's longevity. Maintained properly, you should get a cycle a day out of it for at least 2 years. That's over 700 cycles. I only keep track of mileage and time, but I've got over 6K miles on my current pack in about 21 months.
 
Much depends on depth of cycles too. But in any case, in my climate it's definitely two years and time to get more RC packs. About three years for a ping. So unless you really will cycle the crap out of em, best to just think in years rather than cycles.

Right now I'm doing about 100 cycles a year on my street riding, but one small 5 ah pack gets more like 300 a year. That pack btw, is now year old and doing just fine with 300 very light cycles on it. The 3 mile dog run most mornings just doesn't hardly even count as one cycle. More like a third of a cycle. So if you really think about it, that pack still only has 100 cycles on it. It should definitely last another year above 80% capacity.

Nevertheless, if you calculate theoretical cost per mile, the lico sucks compared to lifepo4. It's cheap to replace, but not that cheap. The reason I'm on it is flexibility, and c rate. I can run my 48v bikes, or 24v mower on the same packs, or break out the race bike and run 24s. I can buy half my pack each year, and keep the cost of each year's purchase more affordable in that years budget.
 
When i calculate with 50.000km and 3 years runtime.
Than its between 1/10th and 1/8th of the cost from owning a car and using it alone. :mrgreen:
But when i calculate all the broken stuff and fail bought stuff than its more like 1/7th if it not get stolen or get crashed! 8)
 
Breakage rates can really vary. But if you want to keep costs down, a 20 amps controller and a dd motor able to tolerate double that wattage can really last a long time. 20 mph travel doesn't trash the bike or motor like 30 mph will.

Then a quality bike won't fail as much, leaving the major cost to be just tires and brake pads.
 
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