Electric Racing Chainsaw Build, Help Please

Thank you all for the information. I'm taking it all in with great interest. My hot saw builder is now monitoring the thread as well and his ears are perked! I've done my best to answer some of your questions. Please keep the feedback coming.

Whether the saw will be accepted into competitions is unknown. Stihl Timbersports - the competition I care the most about - has three principal hot saw technical rules of consequence: only one person can carry saw onto stage and operate it, it is limited to one cylinder, and must have a "tuned" exhaust. The one person rule is a non issue. This saw will have no cylinders, so the "limited to one cylinder" rule shouldn't be a problem either. The "tuned exhaust"is the tricky one. I have two plausible arguments. The first is that the "tuned exhaust" rule isn't currently enforced as a few guys run a Wankel rotary engine with exhaust systems that are completely stock. The second is to challenge the definition of what "exhaust means". While this motor wouldn't be expelling waste gases, it would be moving air around in some way, correct. As long as I can point to one component on the build and say that it channels or directs air flow in some way I should be good. If desperate, I suppose I could go full jackass and just weld a pipe to the frame and claim it is a "tuned exhaust".

My intent would be to keep this build under wraps and only unveil once I carry it on stage to compete at the Stihl TImbersports US Championship. The judges would be forced to make a controversial decision to either allow the cut or disqualify me. I think this would be fun. I have a reputation for loophole mining the rules a bit. It helps that I'm the current champion as well. DQ'ing the champ for being innovative will be a tough call to make.

Finally, Stihl as a power equipment company is moving a large portion of their product line over to electric battery tech. They know that electrification is the future. From a corporate ethos standpoint they would be in a bit of a hypocritical position if they were to prohibit the sort of tech and innovation their R&D department is pursuing.


A few more technical and contextual details on the Honda 330 I'm currently running.

- Direct drive
- It weighs about 55 lbs. If I go to a carbon fiber frame I can cut it down to 48. The ICE motor and exhaust make up about 30 lbs. of that weight.
- Someone asked about kart motors being used. One guy uses one from hammer racing. It is very fast, but very finnicky. This guy races with a "2nd place is the first loser" mentality...win or go home!
- Fuel is typically VP or Sunoco 110. A few saws run on alcohol. Alcohol saws can run hotter, but are also more finicky and unreliable. Hot, humid days really mess with them.
- The majority of new builds use the Honda CR 250 as the base motor and then bore the cylinder out to 330-370cc. Guys have gone up to 400 and 500 ccs, but this extra power comes with extra problems that makes the unit unreliable. The extra vibration causes welds to break and chains can throw or break. Rotax's are still in play as are a few KTMs and Wankel rotary engines. There is a fast suzuki 270 in the mix as well.
- For Stihl Timbersports competitions we cut 47 cm white pine. In Europe and Australia they cut a hybrid poplar that is equally as soft. This would be considered a medium diameter wood for racing purposes. 250 cc motors can be competitive with 350 cc motors as they can achieve the same chain speeds and the 47 cm soft wood doesn't require the power that a bigger motor provides. In competitions where you cut 50-60 cm logs, the larger 330s-370s start to run away over the 250s. Years back there was a two cut race on 64 cm doug fir (harder than pine). 400 to 500 cc single cylinder saws would win this event.
- We get 15 cm within to make the three cuts, all of which must be complete. If we cut through the 15 cm line anywhere it results in a DQ. This happens a lot…probably in 25-30% of competitive runs.
- In regards to chain grinding, pretty much everything has been attempted to enhance the cutting efficiency of the 404 high tooth chain. While the best grinders might not have engineering degrees, these guys are shop monkeys who live and breathe chain grinding. When they're not doing up race chains, they're grinding chains for professional logging crews. They're adjusting the chain in up to 20 different areas, are measuring things down to thousands of an inch, and will go as far to meticulously polish the entire chain in order to reduce friction.

The two guys making the majority of new builds are pretty adament that the 404 high tooth chain's ability to cut and remove wood is the current greatest limiting factor for performance. When attempts are made to make the tooth cut more aggressive or take the rakers down, the stress on the tooth is too much and chains can break. A really bitey chain can "push" the saw and operator around as well. There is an .80 guage harvester chain that could potentially handle the stress, but it has a larger cutting kerf which makes it much more difficult to get three complete cuts in the 15 cm wood allotment. Approximately 35% of competition runs already result in a DQ or DNF. Most of those are incomplete disks, cutting the line, or a saw not starting or dying and then flooding.

The components of a good hot saw run are considered to be 1/3 the motor, 1/3 the chain grind, and 1/3 the operator. Since the fastest ICE motors are mostly maxxing out the cutting potential of a well ground chain, smooth operation is where select operators differentiate themselves from the pack.

A lighter saw makes good operation easier. Fast hands for fast starts and transitions do as well. The rest is just good muscle memory and having the awareness to lean on or let up on the saw based on how the chain and motor is reacting to the wood.

A final intangible in regards to performance is reliability of the machine. Guys who are on top of maintaining their saws and replacing components constantly have less mechanical issues. This is also why the Honda CRs are taking over. They seem to have less mechanical issues than the Rotax's or the Wankels.

Given that the chain technology is unlikely to change anytime soon, and it appears that electric motors could provide the same chain speed and power as our ICE motors, so I'm most curious to know how an electric motor saw could both be more reliable and be operated faster. Things like not having to "start" the saw and going strait to the throttle with my right hand instead of the pull chord are attractive. So are not having to ever worry about bad fuel or adjusting the jetting based on altitude, temperature, or humidity. With that here are my principal questions moving forward.

- Is there an e-motor configuration that will come in under 20 lbs.? 10 lbs. less weight than the ICE motors would be a big deal as far as handling goes. I’m not worried about the wieght of the batteries. The idea of having them in a backpack or remaining on the ground and connecting via cables sounds ideal.
- Will the vibration be less? Would there be any other potential handling problems? People mention "gyroscoping". I have an idea of what this is, however more explanation would be appreciated.
- How are these motors going to hold up? How often will components need to be replaced? I understand that it may be hard to give concrete answers until sufficient testing is done.
- Will there ever be start issues? Could something happen where when I go to hit the throttle and something isn't correctly configured?
- Will these e-motors run the same regardless of atmospheric conditions (temp, humidity, altitude)?

Safety is obviously a concern as well. Is electrocution an issue? How about batteries exploding, leaking, or becoming unstable? What happens to a motor when it gets pushed too far? If I mess up a motor, can it be fixed? What is "runaway" that people keep mentioning. Are there any other safety concerns that pertain specifically to an e-motor and the batteries?

Finally, I'm located in Minneapolis, MN. The guy that builds my saws is in Chico, CA.

Thanks again!
 
Since the race is under 10 seconds or so, you can go way, way over the motor's rating for that long.
Lipo would be the battery of choice. You'd size it to get the required amps. Again, you can probably go over the ratings for a 10 second run.
The controller is where I see the bottleneck. It would need to be pretty darn big, physically and would need a very high eRPM rating.

Here is a catalog page for some big EV motors:
https://www.evwest.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=8&osCsid=cuiehc7la00iruhg19lbe1un91

If you look at the specifications, you can get an idea for how big of a motor you'd need. Anything close to the specs of the 2-stroke gasser is going to be a heavy beast.

Here are some perhaps more appropriate sized ones:
https://www.electricmotorsport.com/ev-parts/motors/brushless-motors?limit=all

the ME1304 is sort of in the ballpark:
Specifications

Power: 12 kW Continuous, 30 kW Peak
4 pole motor (8 magnets).
Phase to Phase winding resistance is 0.065 Ohms with 20 turns per phase.
Maximum recommended rotor speed: 5000 RPM
Voltage: 0 to 72 VDC input to the control
Torque constant of 0.12 Nm per Amp
The Inductance Phase to Phase is 0.05 Milli-Henry
Armature Inertia: 45 Kg Cm Squared
Current: 165 Amps AC continuous (200 Amps DC into the motor control)
Peak current: 450 Amps AC for 1 minute (620 Amps DC into the motor control)
Weight: 35 pounds
Peak Stall Torque: 75 ft lb.
 
By the sounds of things power wont be much of a problem and considering the sponsors you'll probably have a far better chance of the organisers looking favourably on an AC setup than DC (the stinky, thirsty but cheap 2-strokes of the electric world). From experience I'd suggest again to start small and would recommend RC components, especially for a lower powered build to test the concept.

I can't claim to vast experience with RC parts but what I found was the motors do put out their rated peak power but will heat extremely quickly at it. About 1/3rd of their rated peak power seems to be a good continuous power ballpark figure so long as there's some air flowing through them but peak is what matters here and the more effectively you can cool them, the longer they'll be able to hold it for and with temperature sensors it's fairly easy to protect them from permanent damage.

If I had to put something together as an example I'd get 2x 1/5th scale RC car motors and controllers (with a temp sensor input), a couple of gears slightly larger than the motor case diameter that can handle the torque and either a gear or belt drive to step the motor rpm down. Bore a couple of holes in a block of aluminium to clamp the motors and another hole for the output shaft, slots for clamping, grooves to hold bearings, holes for temperature sensors, handles, bar, etc... Cut a good amount of cooling fins on the rest of the block and maybe mount a couple of fans, plug in some batteries and make it go! ;)

That should be pretty easy to put together and set up and be able to put out about 25-30kw for less than $2000 for the electrical parts including batteries, weigh in at around 15-20kg minus bar, have practically no kick or vibration and be reliable enough for day to day use (so long as you don't mind changing batteries every few minutes).

Of course, it's never that easy but I doubt something like that would have any major problems to overcome and should scale up easily enough, the price ramps up pretty quick and the choice more limited as the motors and controllers get bigger but considering the price you're used to paying for engines you could get motors built to exact specifications and still have plenty of change left over.
 
Emrax 188 is like 15 lbs. Controller maybe 5 lbs.

Gyro effects won't be any worse in a e motor than a gas motor, keeping in mind that gas motors already have significant gyro effects with a very heavy rotating assembly and high RPM. To read more, look up "gyroscope" on wikipedia.
 
The emrax 188 does look a good size and power. Lighter than a stihl ms880. 208 looks to be a killer motor. Can either survive higher rpms?

The gyro effect should be no worse with this weight class motor than the 250cc ice setup.

Sarcassidy, great to read your post. I can picture you driving in to the comp in a spoofed up electric utv with STIHL decals and colors and pull out the new electric chip makers. with a STIHL logo'd umbilical cord connected to the UTV battery :twisted:

They would be dam fools to DQ you before seeing it cut - play out, for certain. It's by far one of the biggest R&D gifts one can give them.

Small variable speed 200w Power supply type muffin fan should meet the tuned exhaust reg.

Handling a 55 pound 60hp honda head is impressive I must say. You should have no issues with a electric power plant as you will be able to dial in throttle ramps and have the ability to dial back current for wood where more power is not helping and up when it is helping.

Motors are very reliable as long as you dont overheat them. Controller is as others have mentioned a possible constraint. If you go with a direct drive, controlling motors spinning over 10000 rpms can be difficult or not possible, depending on motor - controller combination. Guy doing the drag bike dyno testing in the vid I posted earlier can tell you more on what could work on the motors he is playing with. Here is another to check out from a few years back. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lnGvSEcldzQ He is out near your builder. Check out the various Death Bike threads here on ES. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=63107 Something close the the zero 75-7 size if I recall.

You will most likely be dealing with lethal battery voltages in the power class your chasing. The batteries are a whole new school grade of learning to get through. Lipo will burn and destroy everything around them as many here can talk to. Keep them cool and away from where they can be trouble.
 
Basics so far for perfect balance saw ?
Rotor spins opposite to chain to help cancel out giro effects, direct gear 1-1 differential to flip motor rotation from chain , match giro effects of the rotor and the chain to completely remove kick back as the chain ramps up.

Getting past 10kw with current tech is going to be expensive, less power in means less chainspeed so if we took the crazy 290m/sec and just made a prototype to 100/msec at a third of the 60hp/45kw used so in theory an electric 100/msec saw would need 15kw at only 4000rpm, thats a rotor speed much easier to get for a direct drive system and compared to makitas 20m/sec it's 5 times faster cut and thats impressive in itself.

Start small and go big in time for me nothing will beat a z force motor for the biggest cheapest saw I can imagine up but then it's a crazy thing that could get upto 250m/sec at least in theory and still be direct drive, but like I say just a 3rd of that would still be a mean saw and much more achievable and workable figures.

Withing 3 pages yacking amongst ourselfs we have come up with a basic design theory to get a prototype that with finesing could take stihl new electric chainsaw and make it inferior and possibly challenge the hot saw dominance all with current tech no need to pull out next gen big gun motor and battery tech when that comes along 2 stroke will only have field endurance left up it's sleeve.
 
Ianhill said:
Getting past 10kw with current tech is going to be expensive, less power in means less chainspeed so if we took the crazy 290m/sec and just made a prototype to 100/msec at a third of the 60hp/45kw used so in theory an electric 100/msec saw would need 15kw at only 4000rpm, thats a rotor speed much easier to get for a direct drive system and compared to makitas 20m/sec it's 5 times faster cut and thats impressive in itself.

Start small and go big in time for me nothing will beat a z force motor for the biggest cheapest saw I can imagine up but then it's a crazy thing that could get upto 250m/sec at least in theory and still be direct drive, but like I say just a 3rd of that would still be a mean saw and much more achievable and workable figures.
Ian,...the OP wants a competitive saw.
If he is going to only cut at 1/3 the speed of the top guys, he may as well not turn up !....it certainly wont help the acceptance of electric saws!
What is everyones hang up on direct drive to the sprocket ?
A simple jack shaft avoids the need for special high rpm motors, with all the issues that brings.
Stock motor, stock controller 75kW , 10k+rpm with a simple jackshaft.
The Zero motor is nice, but far from ideal.
A Zero 75-7 weighs 38 lbs, and has 40kW at 5krpm..and is phyically much bigger than the Emrax
You can only guess the Z force motor is bigger, and heavier, but still only 5000rpm.
Having rechecked the Emrax 208 spec, i see it is actually capable of 8500rpm..stock.. :shock:
So if you ran it DD with a 19Tdriver, it would give the same chain speed as the ICE saw at 10,000rpm with a 16T sprocket . :D :wink:

PS Ian... that chain speed is 290 fps ..not m/sec
 
I get the emrax is a beast but I dont even see a single unit price listed so it's $100000 ?????I don't know and I certainly ain't gonna get one from a breakers yard auction.

Yes the z force stock performance will mean 3-1 gearing at least but it can be pushed much harder for something competitive.

Never be as balanced as a well thought out axial design mind there's ways to have even better balance than anything on the market to date in a 1-1 config and that's the only method for that really at these crazy power levels.

That's why I said I'd do my first round of R+D at a 3rd the power becuase even I could save up a grand and join in to that if I really felt the need there no biggie for a company to make 10 of them and wreck them.

Does make me want to take a ktm65cc motor with its 6 speed box and shove it on a fatbike and have a 70mph beast similar on YouTube been done and those parts are cheap to get hold of do the bike well under a grand even making it with decent high spec stuff go well and enough range to cross many mountains right up my alley.
 
Hillhater said:
..true, but why sacrifice the extra 75% of torque and 25% of the power available from the 208 version ?
Its only 3/4” bigger and 4 lb heavier .

Well, the 188 is already overkill compared to the gas engines the guy wants to beat. He can probably put down 100+ hp for 10 seconds. And builds always end up heavier than you think, so probably best to save weight everywhere he can.
 
If you think you can get away with not having to have controller and batteries mounted on the saw then it will make things much easier (if the rules get rewritten to accommodate electric saws I could see them stipulating everything has to be on the saw - no umbilicals). I'd go for a backpack rather than box-on-the-floor as it's slicker and more equivalent to a gas saw in that you're not tethered. It's also how some of the professional garden power tools run.

Sarcassidy said:
- Is there an e-motor configuration that will come in under 20 lbs.? 10 lbs. less weight than the ICE motors would be a big deal as far as handling goes. I’m not worried about the wieght of the batteries. The idea of having them in a backpack or remaining on the ground and connecting via cables sounds ideal.
- Will the vibration be less? Would there be any other potential handling problems? People mention "gyroscoping". I have an idea of what this is, however more explanation would be appreciated.
- How are these motors going to hold up? How often will components need to be replaced? I understand that it may be hard to give concrete answers until sufficient testing is done.
- Will there ever be start issues? Could something happen where when I go to hit the throttle and something isn't correctly configured?
- Will these e-motors run the same regardless of atmospheric conditions (temp, humidity, altitude)?

Safety is obviously a concern as well. Is electrocution an issue? How about batteries exploding, leaking, or becoming unstable? What happens to a motor when it gets pushed too far? If I mess up a motor, can it be fixed? What is "runaway" that people keep mentioning. Are there any other safety concerns that pertain specifically to an e-motor and the batteries?

-If you're looking for ~50HP/40kW then at 10kW/kg you're potentially looking at only a 10lb motor and that wouldn't be pushing the motor too much. Gearing/jackshaft appears to have advantages over direct drive but will add probably ~5lb to that for something that's solid enough to not be unreliable.

-Compared to an ICE the vibration will be nill

-Gyroscopic effects, as others have just pointed out, probably won't be worse than ICEs. IOf you go with a jackshaft you have the option to greatly reduce or even eliminate if your feel it's beneficial.

-You could wreck a motor in one 10 second run if you get it hot enough (burn up the winding insulation and/or cook the magnets). But if you don't do that, they will last a long, long time. If you stay within the manufacturer's power & speed ratings (which do seem to be about 10kW/kg for good motors for short bursts) and let it cool off between runs it should last indefinitely. Badly designed drives could knock out bearings or snap shafts but this isn't really the fault of the motor. I think you'd be in for a pleasant surprise how reliable an electric motor can be compared to a highly strung ICE! There aren't any wearing components.

-Nope. Assuming the battery hasn't gone bad or you don't plug the battery in backwards and blow up the controller. Some controllers need parameters setting up on a simple computer interface, others are plug & play with nothing to adjust. Either way, once correctly connected/configured it will go every time you pull the trigger, same as a cordless drill. Probably a good argument for effective safeties/interlocks to avoid this beast being a silent widowmaker...

-Electric drives run exactly the same in all conditions and they always start. Check out Pikes Peak Hillclimb to see how electric vehicles dominate this high altitude event. The ICEs are struggling for power and correct fuel-air ratio by the time they reach the top, while the electrics run exactly at the top of Everest as at sea level (save for less effective cooling due to the thinner air - minor detail).

-Safetywise you're looking at at least a 100V battery, so roughly similar caution is required as with US 110VAC mains power from a voltage perspective. The battery will, by necessity, be capable of very high discharge though, so accidentally shorting it (dropped spanner etc) will be a big deal. Be prepared for arc-flash type injuries.

-Standard lipo battery precautions apply: they're soft foil pouches so susceptible to being bent/squashed/pierced and can respond by bursting into a fierce fire and if one cell goes it will set off adjacent ones until the whole battery goes. Quality control can be sketchy on some of the RC stuff (I'd expect the LoneStar racing cells to be better). If something goes wrong (runaway - fire) it's usually when charging and so only charge in an area that can handle any fire and don't leave it charging unsupervised. Fire can more rarely occur when heavily discharging a battery so test it thoroughly before strapping it to your back. I'd also have it in a fireproof metal box with vent holes pointing away from you and the ability to dump it quickly.
 
Just work out the controller front next any 50kw high voltage vescs in development be nice to program on the run at least.
 
+1 to vesc, really nice to work with and the new version 7 should be ideal, light, dependable and should just work for many motors that are notoriously difficult to run with other controllers. Your tuner will never go back to infernal combustion after seeing the logging and monitoring capabilities :twisted:

I'd still suggest an off the shelf RC drivetrain for an initial proof of concept build, plug everything in and it will just work, squeeze the maximum out of the motors and be pretty much bulletproof (a saw doesn't have the traits that make RC unsuitable for EV). Moving from that to a more sophisticated control setup like vesc will be an easy step and then stepping up to more power should be a breeze.

EDIT: Maybe have a look at the Axiom project if you get a chance, based on vesc and driving industrial IGBT modules. 1000 volts and 1000+ amps might be a bit much for a saw but the idea suggested earlier of running the saw of the UTV batteries was sweet! A UTV that leaves 100ft high rooster tails and does 8 second quarters could put on a good show ;)
 
A Zero 75-7 weighs 38 lbs, and has 40kW at 5krpm..and is phyically much bigger than the Emrax
You can only guess the Z force motor is bigger, and heavier, but still only 5000rpm.
Having rechecked the Emrax 208 spec, i see it is actually capable of 8500rpm..stock.. :shock:

Arlo was getting over 80 hp out of the 75-7 and some 8500 rpms also. Not 100% clear in his vids. Still it and the other larger zforce blocks are 40 pounds as you say.

If the emrax is good for 8500rpms, just a bit of overvolting and field weakening puts it in direct replacement territory. Ice setup running 12000 rpms with a 17 tooth is 229 feet per second. The emrax would need 9000 rpms with a 20 tooth to get 202 ft/sec. It needs to get to 10000 rpms to be equal in chain speed with a 20 tooth or another tooth or two on the drive sprocket.
Just a guess, but if they are publishing 8500 rpm capability, I don't think dialing up the revs will be a biggy given the duty cycle of the competition.
 
This is an interesting problem. One thing I can imagine is that the chain speed might be a real limiting factor as at lower speeds you would need more force to get the same cutting performance. This force may be greater than what the operator can supply. At higher chain speeds, operator needs less force to get the same cutting speed.

Most permanent magnet motors, especially big ones, are not going to be happy going 10k+ RPM. Induction motors have a better chance at running high RPM. Otherwise you may need some kind of gearing between the motor and chain to get higher speed, which would be failure prone. The motor from a Tesla would probably be a bit heavy, but there are some nice induction motors out there in a smaller size.

Another thing to think about... not sure what the rules state, but you might be able to put the battery and inverter (controller) in a back pack and have wires going to the saw. Might make it easier to handle.
 
I'd still suggest an off the shelf RC drivetrain for an initial proof of concept build, plug everything in and it will just work, squeeze the maximum out of the motors and be pretty much bulletproof

If there is budget for a second saw, I like the idea of a stock ms 661 size saw with a huge power to weight advantage. The emrax 188 would be a good choice to fit under near stock plastic. Backpack or waist pack battery setup. This would have many more real world implications. Motor alone is just under the mass of the 661 power head but with 10 times the power.
 
Incremental prototypes would be a great way to get a feel for the technology and which direction to head in. Some 12S lipo packs, a big ~5kW RC motor and a sensorless controller on a smaller saw would be an easy way to dip a toe.
 
Punx0r said:
Incremental prototypes would be a great way to get a feel for the technology and which direction to head in. Some 12S lipo packs, a big ~5kW RC motor and a sensorless controller on a smaller saw would be an easy way to dip a toe.

Yep, and for pretty much a throwaway budget compared to the costs of a season with the honda engine. I've already tied it out on a smaller scale and the needs of a saw are pretty much ideal, it's hard to believe such a small motor can actually put out the same sort of power as a regular sized saw but it handles it no problem, a 4092 inrunner and it's a little screamer.

An inrunner was a spur of the moment choice but it turned out a blessing. The chain speeds I expected to need and the way it actually worked out after getting a feel for the power curve where quite a bit different and having the option to lower the gearing for heavy cuts or speed it up for fast light cuts is well worth the extra complication. I've been asked to build another and everything has been planned out for an outrunner with direct drive but I'm sorely tempted to go with an inrunner and belt drive again after this thread, you could easily have a very fast 14" light saw that could occasionally pull a 24" bar if needed (you'd need a lot of battery weight to do it regularly).

On a side note, if anyone knows of a readily available electric pump for the chain oil please let me know! It's the only thing that's held up this project moving from a converted IC saw to a custom made electric. The solenoid pumps used on engineering machine oilers are about the ideal but it needs to be much smaller. That would open up the option for load and speed regulated oiling rather than just speed. Thanks :)
 
The two guys making the majority of new builds are pretty adament that the 404 high tooth chain's ability to cut and remove wood is the current greatest limiting factor for performance. When attempts are made to make the tooth cut more aggressive or take the rakers down, the stress on the tooth is too much and chains can break. A really bitey chain can "push" the saw and operator around as well. There is an .80 guage harvester chain that could potentially handle the stress, but it has a larger cutting kerf which makes it much more difficult to get three complete cuts in the 15 cm wood allotment.

Thinner kerf is key IMO. No substitute for doing less work. Chains are not made from super strong steel, so it is no surprize they fail regularly with these hot saws. Top cutter plate could be mostly removed and beveled front cutter edge could be ground more like a thin kerf chop saw which would eliminate most of the side and rear ward loading on the tooth. Breaking is a sign most times that your flexing further or more often than can be tolerated. I would like to see a cold work PM steel (440c class) for at least the cutter link- teeth. Side and drive links in half hard 4130. Possibly a safety chain style rakers added to help flush out chips.
 
Unless the OP or his saw builder already has a good grounding in electric drives,controller set up and programming, and the finesse of high performance lipo packs etc etc... i would suggest the first move would be to get a team together with the necessary skills and experience.
You do not want to have a hi power lipo pack burst into flames either in your shop or on the competition platform !

stan.distortion said:
On a side note, if anyone knows of a readily available electric pump for the chain oil please let me know! It's the only thing that's held up this project moving from a converted IC saw to a custom made electric. The solenoid pumps used on engineering machine oilers are about the ideal but it needs to be much smaller. That would open up the option for load and speed regulated oiling rather than just speed. Thanks :)
Most domestic Espresso Coffee machines use a small, low flowrate, solenoid pump (ULKA EX 5) available in various voltages.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Breville-Sunbeam-DELONGHI-Coffee-Machine-PUMP-48W-230V-50Hz-ULKA-EP5/153551117816?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3Da545afe11e7e4732b8118f01d68516d6%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D30%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D153643214804%26itm%3D153551117816%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2386202%26algv%3DDefault&_trksid=p2386202.c100677.m4598
They are used with water, but would handle oil im sure
 
Why ya all think electric tools need batteries? Plug it into the wall silly.
Look at this:
https://www.husqvarnacp.com/us/machines/power-cutters/k-6500-chain/967324901/
Power Cutters
Husqvarna K 6500 Chain

hc210-0348.png


Some AC motors will run fine on DC. Just increase the volts and amps till it smokes, then go buy another saw for $6,824.00 :shock:

Here is how ya cut concrete with a chain saw.
hc250-0245.jpg


See:
https://www.husqvarnacp.com/ddocdownload/HCPO%2FHCPO2017_NAenNAfrNAes%2FHCPO2017_NAenNAfrNAes__1158682-49.pdf
Technical Data on page 24

Not understanding what this is?
Husqvarna high frequency power pack required (not supplied)
hc110-0160.png

Cost $5,937.00 or $7,811.00
 
Not much info on the pm 220 from what i can get hold of but from what i got it is a pimped up controller no storage just takes from 1ph 230vac 4kw, Upto 3ph 400v 8.7kw, and turns that into variable frequency to control the differing saw models attached and i think it operates the water on a solenoid too.

It keeps delicate electronics out of the way for wet concrete cutting that's just a mess with a disc let alone a chainsaw.

Nice bit of kit mind but completely differing beast to hotsaws nice low chain speeds easy to design, not as much of a widow maker to operate as the hot saw.
 
For dickering about the world of RC motors taps out at 10-12kW (input power, shaft power will be less):

*Hacker make some nice (but expensive) motors:

-Their largest inrunner: https://hackermotorusa.com/product-category/hacker-brushless-motors/outrunners/hacker-q100-9500-watt-brushless-motors/

1.8/2.3kg, 9500W but only 6000rpm

-Their largest outrunner: https://hackermotorusa.com/shop/hacker-brushless-motors/outrunners/q150-series-12000-watt-brushless-motors/q150-4m-12000-watt-brushless-motor/

2.4kg, 12,000W and again, only 6000rpm. This design could be stackable though - 2 or 3 motors bolted together.


*Cheap and cheerful Hobbyking:

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-rotomax-150cc-size-brushless-outrunner-motor.html?wrh_pdp=3

2.5kg, 9800W, 7800rpm, cheaper at $400


*Years ago the 12kW "Colossus" motor was the talk of the town:

http://www.zelenavozila.com/colossus

Specs are a bit thin on the ground but there's probably someone on this forum that's used one in the past


Past these sorts of motors there's quite a jump in power, efficiency and price up to the emrax type motors suggested in earlier posts.
 
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