Ezee to genaric controller wiring

[motomech]

Trying to run an pre-2013 Ezee geared to an Elifebike controller.

Right now the colors look like this;

Phase;
ye.l-yel.
blu.-grn.
grn.-blu.

Halls;
yel.-yel.
blu.-grn.
grn.-blu.

Once I get going, it's smooth sailing all the way to top speed, but @ start-up (below 5 mph), it won't sync up and stutters

Does this mean the phases are ok and I need to keeps trying different Hall combo.s?

I suppose I will find the right combo in time, but I was just wondering if anyone has experience w/ this motor and a genaric controller?
Thanx in advance

 

[amberwolf]

I've been advised that becuause of the high pole count on these Ezee geared hubs, and their gearing, that some controllers (maybe a lot) have trouble running them correctly.

I have a v1 Ezee here that I will be hooking up and testing, to put on the Raine Trike eventually, but I don't know when I'll get to that. When I do, I can letcha know if it works with the controllers I ahve here (which are all older ones, so dunno if they're presently available anywhere, so it might not help you).

 

[motomech]

AW
Well, no joy :|
I not only tried every color combination, but I researched the Net for every Ezee build. The only non Ezee(old style) or Infineon controller documented to work w/ a Ezee V1 was one Ecrazymen unit and I'm a little leary of that report.
So it looks like I need an Infineon. I need PAS and a LVC(Lipo) and have no desire for a Cycle Analyst, so that narrows it down to Lyen or Paul(em3ev).
This motor has been a stone around my neck for years. I bought it from Grin during one of the "in-house" sales and although they claimed it worked, it did not. It turned out to have the very common(for early Ezee motors) problem of the cold soldered joints @ the PCB. I tried to lenghten the wires and resolder, but couldn't. When the PCB was epoxied on the stator at the factory, the epoxy squished into the tiny wire mount holes from the back-side. Removing and cleaning the original PCB & Halls turned out to be impossible, so I bought a new, updated PCB(w/ bigger holes :lol: ) and Halls from Grin and redid the whole thing.
Before applying new epoxy to cover the solder joints, I tested continuity from the 5) solder points to the cable connector and all was good. But I will test the Halls before ordering another controller. The fact that once the motor gets past the hicup @ the start-up, it runs smooth and quiet to top speed leads me to believe that they are working.
I'm only running a 17 Amp (@ 48V) controller, but the smoothness of this motor is impressive.
I'll post the results of a new controller when it arrives in the hope that this info may help someone else.