Fat MAC: Is it do-able?

Joined
Sep 11, 2014
Messages
117
Location
N. TX, USA
Greetings, this is my 1st post in the General forum. Planning my 1st eBike build.
After tons of research, I finally settled on a MAC motor.
My terrain includes many gravel roads (large gravel, not fun even to drive on), so I want to opt for a fatter-tire bike (I don't own a MTB yet). The one I'm probably settling on has 170mm dropouts, Symmetrical spokes, and has 50mm rims (as opposed to the full-fat 80mm rims)... and 7-speed, but having many speeds isn't so important to me (still preferable to 1 speed). Fatter fat bikes like the Mongoose have 180mm dropouts.

I found this comment by wesnewell on his yescomusa kit:
Postby wesnewell » Fri Aug 08, 2014 1:07 am
Most rear hub motors are ~225mm wide. and can fit in dropouts as wide as 180mm leaving ~20mm per side for the axle nut.

But the MAC diagram shows an axle of 205mm.
http://sdrv.ms/19m6HAh
Is a 205mm axle doable with a 170mm (symmetrical) dropout?

205mm axle - 170mm dropout = 35mm left over.
35/2 = 17.5mm for each nut.
Is this enough?
If it is enough, would there be enough left over for torque arms and/or rack/saddle bag mounts? Advice greatly appreciated.

Can torque arms can be mounted INSIDE dropouts? I imagine there's insufficient room, but would using a narrower cassette provide more room and make it possible, or are they not even shaped right for this?

Fat bikes are the fastest-growing trend in bikes, and seem intrinsically better-suited to motors because the extra dropout width provides more room for stator width, which have been a challenge to fit in 135mm. But I don't see manufacturers adjusting for this trend.

PS: Does anyone know if cell_man's kits come with upgraded wiring by default, or is it by request?
 
I've spread steel swing arms from 135mm to 150mm without any problems. I see no problem in squeezing them together from 170mm to 150mm or even narrower. Don't try it with aluminum though. With steel dropouts and and properly installed axle nuts and washers, you don't need torque arms. Mine have never come lose with up to 4kw and regen braking from 40mph. Screw secured torque plates would be better if you think you need TA's. Inside, outside, wherever.
 
Forgot to mention, the frame on the bike I'm considering is aluminum (6016 alloy). Here it is, out of stock right now:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/fat-bikes/fat-bikes-bullseye-monster.htm

I'll probably be dumping up to 2250W, possible max theoretical 3K (esp if I went DD, but kind of set on MAC ATM). So I don't know if I'll need torque arms. I don't know much about screw-secured torque arms except that they seem custom.
Ebikes.ca says:
"For powerful setups (>1000 watts input power), setups with front aluminum dropouts, setups with regen braking, then a torque arm should be used for sure. ... If its a rear install, even an aluminum dropout is OK provided that it's plate metal at least 8-9mm thick and you have a 14mm rather than a 12mm axle."
(for reference)
http://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/torque-arms.html
Some MAC specs from China, albeit rated '250W' at only 36V:
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/335/637/252/1275960294470_hz-myalibaba-web11_10763.jpg
http://i03.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/334/637/252/1275960294450_hz-myalibaba-web11_10762.jpg
If I can fit torque arms inside the dropouts (you make it sound like I could), that sounds like a non-issue for width?

Squeezing the dropouts: would that only be achievable by getting a narrower hub or gear? (I have no idea how I'd accomplish that, except by just screwing the bolts tightly?) I'm not extremely handy. I'd be desirous of trying to re-use the OEM rim.

So, the question remains -- about how much length is needed for the outer lug nuts? Would I have enough to safely bolt down the nuts with 17.5mm per nut?

Wes: I've seen you write that your Mongoose has 180mm dropouts, then most recently you said 170mm. Was that a typo? What is it?
 
Remember the last part of the axel on the wire side has a notch cut into it to allow the wires to come out parallel to the side of the bike. Although you could have the wire come straight out I'm sure this would be a weak point if thats the only part of the axel you have the nut on.
 
SprocketLocket said:
Wes: I've seen you write that your Mongoose has 180mm dropouts, then most recently you said 170mm. Was that a typo? What is it?
I never said what the dropouts were on the Mongoose Dolomite. Someone else said they were 170mm. I never measured mine since it came with the rear wheel mounted, but I just did a rough measurement and it looks like it's more than 170mm. But I couldn't say for sure without removing the back wheel. Being steel, it really doesn't make much difference. If I wanted to squeeze them in to 135mm it wouldn't be a problem. Just another reason I'd never buy a bike with aluminum dropouts to put a motor on.
For that aluminum fat bike, you can probably squeeze it in a little, 5-10mm, but you will definitely want torque arms/plates on the inside.
 
Dang, this sucks.
Appreciating the info. Glad I haven't bought anything yet.
All for a want of 2cm of axle.
So, when we're talking about 'squeezing the frame', do you mean (or can it be done by) tightening the lug nuts progressively on either side to squeeze it down? If so, will the frame spring back to its normal width/shape when the motor kit is removed? And do you use some kind of spacer to take up any remaining slack on the inside?

If we're talking about squeezing the frame permanently with external tools, that would probably be the last straw for me..
 
I've always had to widen my dropouts. I take a 1x6 board and wedge it in between the dropouts and take a small sledge hammer and pound the board in until the spread looks plenty wide enough and then I pound it out. They will spring back some. If they don't spring back to exactly what I want, the axle nuts will pull them together. I use a jam nut on the left side since I crushed the original spacer. More solid anyway. If I move my 1000W motor over, I'll use a jam nut on both sides. I'd rather have a jam nut on both sides now, but I was too lazy to do it on the freewheel side when I last had the wheel off.
lnut3.JPG
 
So, in terms of squeezing the frame down...? Again, could I just cinch the lug nuts down to squish the frame together?
 
Not on alloy frames. I think the Mac axle is just too short for a fat bike. (rear motor)

Your best bet, before getting any motor, is going to be to slightly lengthen the frame with a custom drop out. This will bolt on like a torque plate, on the inside of the frame. Then you will have a slightly narrower drop out. It could even be made in two pieces, narrowing it even more.

On the left, the adapters will have to include a disk brake mount.

But the best easy option remains a front motor, use a rear motor on the front fork. That should work.

Fat bikes are huge this year. I expect somebody will soon be putting out long axle motors, and or mid drive kits for fat bikes.

There was a nice looking mid drive fat bike from Currie at interbike this year. Not sure if it's a production model though.
 
Pardon my ignorance, but by "custom" dropout, you mean something I would make myself, or have someone make just for my bike as a one-off? That doesn't sound like something 'off the shelf'. Not sure what you're talking about. I've seen YouTube videos of guys who work in machine shops fabricating their own torque arms, and an ES member Kiwi who sells a custom something-or-other for a particular model of bike. I'm not a machinist, I'm only mildly handy at best.

No way no how on any front motor for me.. I see the logic, but safety is the reason I'm going Fat in the 1st place (more below).

You guys are great.. I've learned so much. The process otherwise however has been really frustrating, after weeks of obscene amounts of research, only to have my plan fall apart. Fat bikes are the biggest fad or trend to come along in bikes since beach cruisers and hybrid/cross-country bikes. I can't believe it's so difficult to get a good turnkey solution for a bike which is practically required with all the big-gravel roads I do. Pretty big rocks (for gravel) on crushed concrete. Fear factor of biting it will drain fun out of a ride real fast.

So maybe you saints can help me shift focus...
Basically, guys, here's what I want to do. My deal is, I don't want to go really fast (not interested beyond 25-30mph, for safety, no desire). As a tradeoff, I'd preferably like to go up (or stop & CONTINUE on) ANY hill I desire, including "horse trails", as dogman calls them! Really steep off-road stuff isn't my bag, yet, but I'd like to be able to do it (preferably) if I wanted to on occasion--or something close to it. Getting into ebikes, I discovered that nearly all motor kits (including BBS02) will bog down on the steepest hills (with 26-inch tires, anyway). As a result: I'm also considering a 24-inch rear tire (26 front), although 20-inch is pushing it too far and too attention-getting. Dogman, I figured out previous to finding a post of yours, what you mentioned: 'extremely slow-wound motors, combined with high voltage'. Dogman, I already wanted to ask you to expound on what motors/kits could qualify for this!

This is only for pleasure riding; no commute. I already have my batteries--that's all I have (not even a charger): three 10Ah 6s LiPo's (74V at 4.1V x 18s). I want to broaden my horizons. I think the BBS02 is out; it takes so much setup, requires a lot of shifting, is just a different animal. It wouldn't fit on the bikes I'm interested in anyway. The new MXUS "Mini Cro" is looking interesting, albeit at 2x the weight of a MAC and seeming oriented for speed not torque, and it being a bare motor, I'd have to figure out how to rig up a controller w/phase wires and hall sensors, which I barely understand: not something I intended to do when I crossed the Event Horizon into this alternate existence. Crystalytes are expensive, just as heavy, and according to neptronix, have known axle problems which the company doesn't care about correcting. Before settling on the MAC as more versatile, I originally intended on a Magic Pie 2 - no controller, being inspired by neptronix's videos (albeit having a 20-inch rear tire), but after learning of the MAC, it's not so stealthy, again am not sure about rigging up my own controller. Still an option tho (mxus sounds more promising?). I considered the MP4 with the sine wave controller which is nice but expensive, doesn't do the voltage I want, is unproven as yet, and just doesn't sound as durable as the MP2, with the worse bearing design, and that built-in controller that'll never have the oomph of a 12FET. BTW, as an aside, 9C's website has been down since I got into this. I took them off the list b/c of the rep of overheating and not cooling down fast (maybe trans oil would cure that--you'd think they'd do that from the factory, if so)... and they're hardly for sale anywhere anyway.

I would be open/inclined to oil cooling with whatever setup I got. My last straws would be: I don't want to have to do any custom fabrication, and I'd prefer to not have to make my own wiring harnesses.. that just seems ridiculous in 2014 with what seems like objectives I'd think a lot of folks would have! I'm open to lacing my own spokes now, have been studying.

From reading reviews, the Mongoose fatbikes seem like pieces of sh#%, no offense to anyone at all (#Wes), just not something I'd trust in real off-road situations or at speed... "one-size-fits-all" overly-small frame and all. One review at WalMart said they called the company and were told the Dolomite was discontinued. Who knows. Maybe that's why they're back to 250.

Did I miss one? What else is out there, that would fit a fat bike and really has the low-end grunt (which you'd really want on a fatbike anyway), and good heat characteristics??
 
Concerning all cheap bikes. Don't believe everything you read. For installing a motor on a bike, the only thing that should concern you is the frame and dropouts. Everything else can be replaced. My current bike, Mongoose Ledge 2.1, cost $99 on black friday sale of 2012. It's aluminum with a steel swing arm. I've replaced both wheels and tires, the handlebars, the BB bearings, the brake pads, and the seat. I've had it to 61.4mph going downhill on a bumpy asphalt road, being airborne at least once, and both the bike and myself came through it unscathed. Now if you want to believe the hype that's up to you., but I can assure you the cheap steel bike frame is as good, if not better, than those of bikes cost 10 tens as much, when it comes to mounting a motor on it.
 
I regretted making the Mongoose statement afterwards because I didn't want to turn my thread into an "is Mongoose good or bad" thread. I appreciate the info but like you said, most knowledgeable people here who have good experiences to report, have replaced many (if not nearly all) components, and for them I think they see the bike as more of a frame, or a 'kit' with starter components, which is absolutely something I don't want to do. I don't have the skill, time or will to build a bike up from a frame. I'd buy a cheaper, used, better frame and do it if I had the skill/will. I'd also trust your $99 Mongoose a lot more on a trail than the Dolomite. So far I've seen zero reports of anyone who's done significant, real off-roading with any Mongoose fat bike, particularly stock. What I've read is not hype, just Wal-Mart reviews from actual owners. There are many happy owners, but all of them seem to have either replaced components and/or ride only on flats or pavement. I've got a cheapie ebike which does okay on pavement and flats already. Fat Goose might be okay as a 'kit', but I'm not looking for a kit. It's time to transition from research to building, to riding.

Another option I'm considering is to make what's called a "Half Fat" bike. This is a normal MTB where you put a fat fork on the front. The problem is, start with a used or new decent MTB for around 150-300 (pref. steel, which I can find), then add the lowest end fat fork for minimum 130 (Salsa Enabler), a fat rim which is gonna cost at least 40 or more, a tire (at least 30-40), a fat tube ($?) and I guess spokes, not to mention tols I'd have to buy, I'm easily approaching 250 just for the front, plus about 250 for the bike, 500, I can get a new fat bike for that which is going to be decent and save me tons of sourcing, learning curve, work, and testing, which is in itself worth money to me. And the DIY bike would still only be 'half fat', altho front end is most important. One advantage is I could source a steel-framed bike, which might save me 40 in torque arms, though I think with 2k-3k watts, torque arms are probably worth it even with steel. I found this cheap steel one for 250, reviews are actually pretty good and unlike geese they come in real sizes, though they don't even list things like dropout and bottom bracket, older non-suspension ones can be found used even less. Old school brakes. This could be an option, sigh:
http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=29203336&bvrrp=3020-en_us/reviews/product/3/29203336.htm
Frame Sizes: 16", 18", 20"
Wheel Size: 26"
Frame: Heat treated Hi-Ten Steel, mountain geometry, 31.8ST/50.0DTOS HT/135mm/TTcbl, 28.6 post
Shifter: Shimano Revo twist shifters
Chain: KMC
Hub (F): Steel
Hub (R): Steel
Spokes: 14g
Rims: 32H Aluminum
Tires: 26" x 2.1"
Brakes: Alloy linear pull

I don't have a MAC to look at, the diagram doesn't show the slot AFAIK, and pics online show varying-sized slots. I think the dropout or at least the Torque Arm needs to be on a non-slotted part of the axle. The nut, I guess, is okay over the slotted part? Could someone please measure the MAC wire cut-out slot?

Still very open to suggestions for motors and kits with extreme slow windings for slower speed and great hill-climbing. I can check on the axle size.
 
I don't think I would be comfortable putting the nut over that portion of the axle. the cut-out for the wires is 12mm deep. I just measured it for you.

I think you are making a much bigger deal out of making drop outs than you need to. It is time consuming but it is not difficult. Go to Lowe's (Home Depot doesn't carry it) and pick up a Hillman Weld Stl-Plt (H.R) 1/4" x 4" x 12" for $9.99. That is enough steel to make a set of drop outs and spacers twice. I am sure you have a drill, a hack saw and a file. That is all you need. If you don't want to move the wheel back, then move it down. Either way, you will be able to put the wheel exactly where you want it.

I am building a Giant DH Comp with 2 MACs front and rear. One of the big issues with the DH Comp is the asymmetrical rear triangle necessitating the rear wheel to be dished like crazy. Not mine. I built the wheel and then built the drop outs around it. I dished it a little bit, but not much and because I also made spacers, it is perfectly centered. Yeah, I had to do it twice before I got it right but I got both sets from a single steel plate. Also, you can use your torque arms on the inside as spacers.

I think this will be an awesome build and I am looking forward to following your progress.

Good Luck
'Cal

Edit: I just looked at the Gravity fat bike that you initially linked to. it would be easy to make a set of drop outs and have a MAC on that bike with no cutting of the bike. the bike would remain intact The only issue that you might encounter would be that the chain might hit the tire in 1st, 2nd, and possibly 3rd gear. So you would only really have the higher gears but those are what you would use most any how. If you decide to go with it, PM me and I will send you a sketch on how I would make them. The drop outs are literally a $10 fix. Also, I doubt there is anything wrong with it or the Mongoose fat bike. Go for it!
 
Choopacabra put it well, you don't need a machine shop to make a torque plate, but a bench grinder, and a power drill make it easier for sure, vs doing all the final shaping with hand files and saws.

But lets back up just a bit,, In your first post you mention that you don't have an MTB yet. Before you decide a fat bike is the only solution, perhaps you should go ride a decent mtb. One with tires larger than 2"

I don't have a fat bike, but would love one for some tracks in my area. The bottom of a dry wash is often foot deep sugar sand. For better performance just crossing them, I run a 2.5 inch rear tire. I run a mere 2" in front because a 2.5" in front is a bitch to steer.

I think a similar approach would solve a lot of your problems. Once you have a 135mm dropout on the bike, you can run any motor you want. And 2.5 inch tires are plenty fat. You don't need a 4" tire for gravel and rocks, just good suspension does wonders.

Re the slow motors, EM3ev used to be the place to get them. I'm not sure where you can get one now, to run on 72v. The ones sold by E-bikekit, in their trike kit are set up to run only on 800w. So lots of hacking to make a 72v one.

I've seen 145 mm motors on alibaba or something, rated to 3000 w. Fat motor with big magnets. If only they made them with slower windings, they'd be perfect for fat bikes, cargo haulers, and rickshaws running 72v. Perhaps one of those on 48v would fit your fat bike. At least 10 mm longer axle.
 
Would the Surly frames with 135mm dropouts do it?

Moonlander takes a 100mm rim with 4,8" tire and still has a 135mm dropout.
http://surlybikes.com/bikes/moonlander/bike_info

If you want a slightly less massive tire the Pugsley would be sufficient.
http://surlybikes.com/bikes/pugsley_2015

These are both cro-moly steel so no trouble with motor forces either.
 
There you go, why do you need the 170 mm dropout bike?
 
I've thought of doing a "half fat" bike before, but...it was for a hardtail, where the front suspension would have a normal 2.5-inch tire, and the lack of rear suspension would be "softened" by having a 3.5 inch tire (fat tires/wheel can be ordered now in 26/24/20-inch versions). Anyways, here's some torque-arm / torque-plate pics to get some ideas:

"Torque arm picture thread" 6 pages
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=26444

Martin in Austria (and Mattycii) had custom drop-outs made to make his bike a few inches longer and the drops wider (to allow a Cromotor), you could have some water-jetted/laser-cut, and mount them to make the drops narrower (if you want):

http://www.electricbike.com/martin-cromotor/
http://www.electricbike.com/custom-build-ebike/
 
Is it just the width of the tire that helps, or does the diameter have something to do with it as well. The reason that I ask is that I run 24 x 3.00 tires on my HardRock and it handles the gravel fairly well. This is with slick type city tires so I would imagine that if you put a 24 x 3.00 Duro Racing Wildlife Leopard on just about any mountain bike it may work also in dirt situations. I think the only place to get them is on the unicycle websites.

Like everyone has said above, there appears to be many options for this build. It will be interesting to see what the OP finally decides.
 
I appreciate the continuing input. Choopa, I especially appreciate your positive energy and sustainment. It refreshed me. I was feeling pretty down. All you guys probably had the same experience I did when you first found this site and realized the amazing potential of ebikes--sleepless nights, creative thoughts, etc.

I like the idea of the dropout adapters, especially the idea of them being able to lengthen the wheelbase a little, I just didn't know what you were talking about. Still barely do, but I like the idea of being able to make them with a file... if I don't have to work on it for hours and hours and hurt my wrists. I don't own a file set, but have had buying a cheap (Mini) file set on my to-do list for a long time. I have a friend who says just about anything can be made with files. However, I still have no idea how I'd do that. I do have a drill, and a rotary tool. They don't see much action. I don't think I am serious enough to buy a bench grinder (I don't even have a workbench to mount it to), and I don't know anyone locally I could use. I would like to explore this possibility more. Thanks for the offer.

I also don't understand why custom dropouts would affect which gears you could use, or how they would make the chain hit the tire?

I'm very aware of Surly and the history of fat bikes. The Surly bikes start at around $1200 at least, I think (for a single speed!). The Pugsley is $1750, and the Moonlander is $2550! I'd sooner get a fat goose than a USED Pugsley, though it is a nice bike. When I began, I was shocked that a decent DIY ebike build would cost over $1k with a $250 bike!, as I was considering used (gasoline) dirtbikes for like $300. I realized an ebike would be more versatile and a better overall choice, but ouch. BikesDirect has a steel-framed fat bike for $1200 too. Nope. I'd sooner get a $250 Dick's steel frame generic-ness blah-fest.

I still think it's ridiculous that I've been stymied over 2cm of axle.
I honestly didn't realize I was blazing new territory. Is it really true that no one's put a MAC/BMC/Ezee on their Fat Bike? Finding it hard to believe. I keep thinking someone's going to pop up who's done it, and will tell me how. Hm.

After talking to a trusted friend, I don't think squeezing an aluminum frame would be a good idea, not much anyway. He said look at where it bends; if it bends on the tube, that might be okay a little bit; but if it's flexing at the weld, that's bad. Steel bends, aluminum breaks he said (like Wes said earlier).

Choopa:
I looked at the MAC diagram again, and they show an axle width of 205mm, but then there is something else to the right of that, where the wire comes out, like an 'extension' of the axle (on the wire side). To me, it seemed like the UN-SLICED portion of the axle was 205mm, and maybe the "notched" part extended out further (asymmetrically; in other words, making the wire side slightly longer than the other side). Photographs online were of no help (inconsistent/unable to tell). Could you do me a favor bud... would it be possible measure the full width of that axle (with the notch)? And possibly the portion which is the "un-notched" axle length? I really feel this is important at this point. If I'm interpreting the diagram correctly, it could be like raising the gate and letting me easily pass through. I could get nuts clamped down on 205mm of UNcut axle just fine, after thinking about it, with a 170mm dropout.

Guys I'm very interested in the idea of thick, Standard-sized tires. I researched them, and the bike forums said they weren't made anymore, b/c they worked poorly in reality (in retrospect, I think that was due to available rim widths of the time), and yep, they did mention the best place to get them today was the Unicycle stores, LOL. My only current bike/ebike anymore is a cheapie WalMart 250W hybrid electric dirtbike/bicycle; for teens; 20-inch tires. Around $425-450 new, I got it used to experiment and see if I wanted to spend the money on a real DIY eBike. It has 2.5-inch knobby Innova brand tires and, although it's a bad example, it's just too dangerous on local gravel. (It does remarkably well off-road otherwise.) Our 'gravel' rocks can approach the size of golf balls! And they're strewn loosely on crushed concrete, not layered thick like a railroad bed. Over half the roads around me are like that, and those are the ones I really want to get around on. No speeding there! I like to stop a lot anyway. I should lower the tire pressure, and the bike's unstable for so many reasons, but still, the supposedly 2.5" tires are way too narrow IME, though the extra stability of a 'real' bike I'm sure would help a lot. I'd still be a bit wigged out, which is no fun. I've biked thousands of miles on mountain and street bikes in a former life, but never much on gravel before. Long story short, I developed a knee problem which ruined biking for me, but pedaling was no longer fun anyway.

On a MTB with 3-inch tires, that might do. The bike in my first link is not full 80mm rims, they're 50mm rims with 4-inch inches (would be rounder due to narrower rim), and their 'lower' model actually has 3-inch rubber on same rims (they should just sell a model with no rubber). That frame can't do wider. BD does sell ones that have full 4-inch tires/80mm rims starting around 600. I wouldn't want a Moonlander's nearly 5-inch tires. IMO, that's more for snow.

SO, WHAT'S THE WIDEST RIM A STANDARD MOUNTAIN BIKE CAN TAKE? Choopa what size rims do you have? I read about a trick where you put a somewhat narrow tire on a wide rim. It flattens out the tire, and gives you a bigger contact patch. I might do that. Depends on how big a rim I can fit on there. Experience with my 20-inch tire ebike suggests that both tire width as well as wheel diameter, plus other factors, all influence stability, esp. on loose rocks. Basically: the bigger, the better, but you can only go so big until it's impractical.

Dogman: it's sad to hear there aren't more slow-wound motors. I was expecting to hear more from you on that. Is 9C even still in business? Site down at least for weeks. I don't know much about their products, except they sold a variety of windings, like MAC.
 
The slow wind motors do exist, it's just that few carry them anymore.

If you wanted a front slow motor, E-bikekit can fix you up. The trike kit is a 9 turn motor. This is set up to work only with the kit, 48v 22 amps max.

It works to put a front motor on a fat bike, because many of them have 135 mm or thereabouts on the front fork. So you put the rear motor on the front to get axle length.

Cost of the bike is a serious problem. But I hazard to guarantee that if you get a medium good DH bike, you will find you don't need fat tires as much as you thought. 2.3-2.5" is still a nice floaty tire, and the suspension is very nice.

Problem is, the $1500 and up price tag of these bikes new. Old ones might need new shocks, which can easily run you $700 and up.

So with those prices in mind, the pugsley is not so extreme high priced.
 
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fat-bikes/lurch-blk/
CroMo framed fatbike for $1000+
The rear dropout looks ample for torque arms/plates

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/lurch-lounge-928474.html
Folks at MTBR seem to be embracing it quite well too

Personally, I would go a mid drive with a fat bike. A geared hub like a MAC/Ezee/BMC would be bogged down on more extreme slopes/terrains. The only pressing concern is the actual installation. Not too many 100mm mid drive options out there ATM, without grinding down your BB to 73mm. I've yet to read about the durability of these fat bike tires at Ebike speeds too.
 
As far as the wider mountain bike tires are concerned, There are still some Arrow Racing Savage 26 x 3.00 kicking around.

I put my 3.00 tires on an Alex DX 32 rim because it is 1.5 inches wide and flattens out the contact patch a bit.

To make my drop outs, I used a $7.00 flat file, a $4.00 flat/curved file, and a 3/8" rat tail file, a Hack saw and a sanding disc mandrel that fits in a drill. I am quite pleased with the way they turned out.

As far as your question of how wide can you go... this depends on 2 factors: the rear triangle on your bike and how far you are willing to move the tire back. This is because the farther back you go; the wider the space between the two sides is.

To answer your question though, I am using motorcycle rims on mine and although most go for the 1.4" wide or the 1.6" rims, I have no problem fitting the 2.15 rims and although I have 2.75 M/C tires on it now, I measured and I can go as wide as 4" on the rear. The front is a different story though.

Also, the reason that the chain might hit the tire is because when you install the MAC, the rear sprockets will probably be further inside of the rim. this may increase the chain line angle to such a point the the wide "fat" tire might interfere with the chain line. If you go with a standard Mountain bike with fat tires this might not be an issue.

Looking forward to seeing what you decide. (personally, I hope you do the fat bike :D )
 
Been thinking (and sleeping more).

While I plan on continuing to look into custom dropouts (thanks Ch00pa, will be talking to ya), taking into account the voices in this thread...

I've been wondering if 3-inch or 80mm rims could fit in a standard mountain bike?

3 inches would still qualify as "fat" anyway? The original production 'fat bike' rims were actually just 47mm, to fit on standard MTB's.

A 3-inch tire, or even a 2.5-inch tire, on a 3-inch/80mm rim, would stretch out quite wide, and give a nice contact patch. The lateral stretching of the tire would make it slightly less tall, and less bulging, making it more likely to not rub. That is my thought. An advantage: easier to scope out and actually measure a real, physical mountain bike, than ordering something online and hoping for the best.

I spent some quality time with my Wal-Mart cheapie e-dirtbike and a caliper. I think 3-inch rims would fit inside at least its front fork, on that little 20-inch tire bike! It would be close, but I think it would work! Not that I'd want to throw money into it--but it got me wondering: could it work on a standard bike too???? Sorry, I don't have a real mountain bike to compare or measure. Maybe someone could measure? Ch00pa, you said you have 2.15-inch rims with 2.75-inch tires on yours, but you didn't mention which bike? I'm more interested in what would fit the Trek than the Giant DH dual susp, as the Trek is more 'standard' and give me an idea of what to expect. It's really encouraging you could fit 4-inchers back there, whichever one you meant.

I was thinking if a 3-inch rim fit in a front standard mountain bike (such as the cheap/decent steel MTB from Dick's posted previously), but didn't fit in the rear, you could have these options:
- Get a 24-inch diameter, 3-inch/80mm rim for the rear. The problem is, 24x3-inch rims are pretty expensive, hard (for me) to find, and often out of stock stateside. They do exist, though; mainly for beach cruisers, apparently. Ch00paKabrA, are you using 24- or 26-inch rims in your bikes? If 24, where'd you recommend getting 24's? 26x3 rims can be had around $50, not too bad.
- Widen the rear fork of a steel mountain bike. This probably wouldn't do much, but if you were almost there...
- Get a slightly narrower rim. What's the next size down?? I don't know common sizes. Widest size EM3V provides is 32mm in 26", and 24mm in 24".

Oh, and a correction: my e-dirtbike's tires are listed as 20x2.25, not 2.50, but my calipers measured 2.15 actual, which visually is a much bigger difference than the number would seem to imply.
Another correction: the unpaved roads around here aren't really gravel, they're crushed concrete. Which in my experience is more challenging. Plus the beige dust that gets on your fork and rims.

Here's a random question:
24-inch tire with a MAC 10T
...vs...
26-inch tire with a MAC 12T
A wash? What would be the difference in how they perform?

Re my batteries: I could do 48V if I wanted to. A simple serial connection on 2 instead of 3 of my 6s (10Ah) packs, would give me 400-some Ah just like that, and if I really wanted to, I could buy a 4th (ugh) battery pack and run a 2S2P 48V pack. But part of the idea of doing 72V was to avoid parallel, to keep things simple, while surpassing my capacity preference. I'm not so worried about 72V in the 12T wind--but I'm not an expert on what high voltages do to the MAC (I've heard 'heat', but don't know how it would be different to a DD motor). I know Ch00pa does 72v on his MAC(s) and I think Neptronix's 10T, too. EM3EV does offer an up-to 72V controller for it.
 
I ran 72v on the MAC and it got real hot. So now i am using an Infineon 4110 from EM3EV and will be getting another one for the front. I haven't even had time to program it yet though. It is still sitting in the box. I will be running 14S 10P Samsung 18650 25R. 25ah of these batteries should easily handle 20a to each of the motors at 58.8v. EM3Ev sells a 14S BMS and 58.8v charger specifically for this set up. I chose it because SpinningMagnets linked me to an article where a member in Taiwan is running dual macs with a similar set up and there is lots of torque even though they are 6T like mine.

I don't think you should run 72 volts. It is just a bit too much. Those extra 14 volts are the straw that broke the camel's (MAC's) back. Plus, I am going to be send those amps to 2 Macs, not one, like your build.

Good Luck. I am looking forward to your build.
 
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