Favourite hall connector - recommendations

[larsb]

I’ve used the bulky kelly type hall connectors for years but never liked them.

I’ve tried some jwpf connectors which i like but they can hardly be repinned if you make a mistake and they are so small they are hard to separate without tools.

So.. what are your favourite hall connectors?
Looking for
- 6 pins
-crimp only
-waterproof
-repinnable (is that even a word )
-Small(ish)
-locking
-for wires around 24AWG

 

[j bjork]

I like vw 1J0 973 713/ 1J0 973 813
I think they are slightly smaller than the better chinese connectors like qs uses. Bigger than the non waterproof connectors that some other uses.
You need a tool to take out the pins though.

 

[larsb]

These?


Where do you buy them and where do you get the tool?

 

[larsb]

Any recommendations from the rest of you?

 

[zeccato]

If you have to take something off the wheel, the nut pin, it will be easier.
I also use them for balancing connectors (I'll glue them together with hot glue) etc., they are more stable.

 

[amberwolf]

the only suggestions i can think of are expensive and large, like the "cannon" connectors used on aircraft equipment, etc.
https://www.google.com/search?q=%22cannon%22+connectors+used+on+aircraft+equipment&tbm=isch

there are a number of automotive connectors that would work too, but again, they're not small. stuff like these
https://www.amazon.com/MUYI-Connector-Receptacle-Waterproof-Continuous/dp/B01G9XY1DS/ref=sr_1_16?m=AE8CEXT8X69U6&qid=1583739234&s=merchant-items&sr=1-16
though not necesarily that specific one



not designed to be waterproof, repinnable, etc, but kingfish used usb-mini-b extension cables cut in half to make his hall connectors for his west-coast-trip bike.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=28812

 

[DogDipstick]

Weatherpack GM from DIY autotune.com

Nothing better. Hard to beat.

Definitively not Amphenol.... Expensive as hell and the connectors gall if you look or glance at them wrong.. I know Ibve bought many. Hard to use and sell to buyers in installations when they struggle to connect them with the lack of motor skills required to make an accurate contact.... without cross threading.

https://www.diyautotune.com/shop/wiring-components/weather-pack-kits/

https://www.diyautotune.com/shop/wiring-components/all-connectors/

 

[j bjork]

These?
EED24980-F4A9-4C25-A798-7E16F935BD99.jpeg

Where do you buy them and where do you get the tool?

Yes
I usually dont buy them, I have some wiring harnesses to pick from. But I dont think they are very expensive from a vw dealer, I guess about 20sek a piece.
However, they dont have the pins. Only (expensive) wires with already crimped pins on. But I am pretty sure wurth has the pins. You need rubber grommets for the wires too, they are available from the vw dealers. (probably wurth or other places too)

 

[serious_sam]

These work ok. I'd prefer smaller, but they're waterproof and decent quality.

6-Way Weatherproof Deutsch Connector Set
https://www.jaycar.com.au/6-way-weatherproof-deutsch-connector-set/p/PP2148

 

[larsb]

Those look nice, thanks for the tip!

 

[John in CR]

My disconnect and reconnect are so rare, I've just gone to hard-wiring everything, so I completely avoid corroded connections or other poor connections. The time it takes to solder wire-to-wire, heat shrink, and then heat shrink over the set of halls, takes about the same time or less than installing connectors which take up more room and are subject to failure.

 

[zeccato]

good, but not for me because when I have to modify the programmable controller, I have to disconnect them.

 

[ZAXBÎX]

I seem to revert to stuff from my airplane days. They are a little bulkey, but can be mounted as a bulkhead fitting, so I make a mounting point for them. If hall connectors have to dangle, I use gm plastic ones. Every connector always gets a1-special grease, under water stuff gets silicone. Z

 

[ZAXBÎX]

Pictures help. Z

 

[spinningmagnets]

My disconnect and reconnect are so rare, I've just gone to hard-wiring everything

I have to agree with John in CR on this one, If there is any way possible to do this, hard-wired and using marine heat-shrink (made for boats) is ideal.

 

[DogDipstick]

My disconnect and reconnect are so rare, I've just gone to hard-wiring everything

I have to agree with John in CR on this one, If there is any way possible to do this, hard-wired and using marine heat-shrink (made for boats) is ideal.

What if you do it often, and not rarely? Better get good at it, doesn't practice make perfect? I guess you dont plan on doing it twice, or upgrading, or modifying the harness for other auxiliary.

Maintenance disassembly is not a thing for you guys? Cause you are so good of course. Lol. How about the non-electrical savy person that might inherit your bike when you retire it and move to the next? Scewface him, laf.

Are we not pushing the envelope ( and the inevitable failures that come with such determination)? Or do we just build with proven designs that are not new?

Isnt there a chance of a manufacture defect showing over time that may need disassembly? I guess you never had this problem, in a production run.

Honestly think we should shield more, but thats another discussion. Such diversity in installation is prone to error.

Regardless, I think they have their worth in the field of design.. connectors, and teh ones I like are linked above. Mainy in ease of assy and reliability/simplicity in maintenance.. Hey, if you are a 10$/hr mechanic itt wont matter, but if you are a 100$/hr mechanic, your customer might want you to save some time through reliable innovation here or there. Just maybe dontcha think?

Hey, I guess if you dont do it alot, know how to clean solder from wire for time tested contact, spend on reliable component, dont plan on innovation, or maintaining the machine ( PMCS v. Overhaul), dont pay for the time, or your time is not worth much,... there is not a problem.

I do it like the auto manuf do... No solder, crimp, nice replaceable if damaged positive interlocking connectors, weatherproofed, ports for diagnosis, of the involved system(s).... and whatnot. Geared toward mass production and less user error IMO, by the nature of the assembly. Ease of use for the user, maintainer, and seller.

Solder away, if that is what you found reliable. I found soldering signals, and power electronics, not very reliable when doing alot of high strung fuel injection projects on vehicles. The OEM would do it if it was good for anything, IMO.

 

[spinningmagnets]

What if you do it often, and not rarely

For the casual reader, I also agree with DogDipstick, if you connect and disconnect often, using a connector is a good way to go, rather than soldering the battery, controller, and motor wires.

I do recommend coating the connector pins and sockets with di-electric grease, with small tubes of it being readily available at auto-parts stores.

John in CR lives in Costa Rica near the ocean, so his connectors are subject to severe corrosion issues due to the salty air. Fortunately, most people dont live where its salty, and they usually dont have to ride their ebikes in a heavy rain, which can happen to John quite suddenly, and with no warning.

 

[larsb]

It rains or snows here for four months straight every year and we use salt on the roads for ice clearing. There are more places on earth than the sunny parts of US of A
We still like to disconnect sometimes

 

[serious_sam]

One thing in John's favour for hard-wiring are his tyres. Motorbike tyres are far more durable than bicycle tyres. Less chance of punctures. Less requirement to remove wheels on a regular basis.

I'm on a bicycle with bicycle tyres, so fixing punctures is a fact of life. I need to be able to disconnect motor wires to get my wheel off for puncture repairs (with any resemblance of convenience).

 

[larsb]

Seems john in cr spends too much time riding and too little time repairing

he should stop living in paradise and come down to the slum level with us northerners

Anyway, i bought some deutsch connectors. Will post a comparison when i get them

 

[spinningmagnets]

One thing in John's favour for hard-wiring are his tyres. Motorbike tyres are far more durable than bicycle tyres. Less chance of punctures. Less requirement to remove wheels on a regular basis.

I'm on a bicycle with bicycle tyres, so fixing punctures is a fact of life. I need to be able to disconnect motor wires to get my wheel off for puncture repairs (with any resemblance of convenience).

That's a good point, Sam, but...I guess I've been lucky. I can't recall the last time I've had to repair a flat. I have the stock connectors my kits came with, I ride on clean streets (no goat-head thorns), and it doesn't rain a whole lot here (plus I don't ride in the rain) so in my application, hard-wiring the cables isn't any kind of benefit for me. I'm sure I'm going to expose how much of an idiot I am some times, but...I don't understand why you'd have to disconnect the cables from a hubmotor to change a flat on the side of the road (assuming you carry a spare tube, air-pump, and tire-spoons).

As a side-note, there was a post years ago, where a riders rear tire would get flat on occasion (very little weight on the front tire, so its thick tires rolled over thorns). He could always see the thorn in the tire, so he added a second tube to the wheel.
He drilled a second hole in the rim for the tube's air-valve, and placed the un-inflated tube against the rim to protect it. If he went flat from a thorn, he'd pull out the thorn, and inflate the second tube...

 

[ZeroEm]

by John in CR » Mar 12 2020 3:57am

My disconnect and reconnect are so rare, I've just gone to hard-wiring everything, so I completely avoid corroded connections or other poor connections. The time it takes to solder wire-to-wire, heat shrink, and then heat shrink over the set of halls, takes about the same time or less than installing connectors which take up more room and are subject to failure.

I agree, don't swap my motors often. The time it takes me to put them little ends on and water proof them.

From now on going to make solid connections and see how that goes. Have a controller for each motor, will leave slack so it will come out of the drop out with out the need to disconnect.

 

[serious_sam]

why you'd have to disconnect the cables from a hubmotor to change a flat on the side of the road (assuming you carry a spare tube, air-pump, and tire-spoons).

I imagine that it depends on how the motor cables are routed on the frame. I can't get my wheel comfortably out of the frame while the cables are still connected, because of the path they take through the rear subframe.

I could repair the tube while the wheel is still mounted in the bike, but I'd prefer to change the tube out and do the puncture repair at home.

 

[spinningmagnets]

Sounds good, I was just wondering about specific issues I might not have been aware of.

 

[larsb]

Connector comparison:


From top to bottom:
”Kelly type” 6-pin, deutsch dtm 6-pin, jst jwpf 6-pin.

The Deutsch DTM is actually similar in size but heavier than the kelly type.
Deutsch can be repinned without special tools and sealing seems more robust than on the kelly type as it’s not dependent on the crimp quality. The seals are for 20AWG wires which is larger than all hall wires i’ve seen.

Jwpf connectors are too small (for me) for easy handling, even though the quality is really nice

If you’re looking for the smallest possible sealed crimp hall connector for an ebike then this is a good choice. In EU jwpf connectors can be bought from www.tme.eu

I’ll probably use the deutsch 3-pins for throttles in the future and keep looking for a preferred hall connector.