First Build Parts List Feedback

[superfluous_pants]

Hello everyone.

I'm nearly ready to order my parts and get started building my first e-board. I am totally new to skateboarding and r/c (but have experience w/ arduino and soldering). I am therefore a bit nervous about all of this and concerned I'm missing something or have overlooked a detail. I appreciate any feedback. Thank you.

Simple Single Motor E-board

• -Board - Generic ebay deck $36 - Im wondering if I can do a normal mount - not thru-mount for extra ground clearance. Im choosing this deck because it can be run in both directions, so I can experiment with rear vs. front drive (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-36x8-98-inch-Long-Board-Drop-Through-Skateboard-Concave-Wood-Deck-Black-/261449009726?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cdf934a3e)
  -Bearings - Reds Bones (http://www.amazon.com/Bones-Reds-Precision-Skate-Bearings/dp/B000FDRQ1S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412218064&sr=8-1&keywords=red+bearings)
  -Torqueboard kit - trucks, wheels, belt, gearing (http://diyelectricskateboard.com/product/single-motor-electric-longboard-kit/)

• -Motor - Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6364-190kv (http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18181__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_6364_190kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html) - Is 190kv too low?
  -ESC - Hobbywing EZRUN 150A-PRO (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hobbywing-EZRUN-150A-PRO-Brushless-ESC-Speed-Controller-For-1-5-1-8-RC-Car-Truck-/390822555444?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5afed6ef34)
  -Programmer (http://www.amazon.com/HobbyWing-LED-Program-Card-Car/dp/B00AX69CCI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1412300879&sr=8-3&keywords=esc+programming+card)
  -Charger - IMAX B6-AC Charger/Discharger 1-6 Cells (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=30917)
  -Battery - 2x in series - ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 3S1P 20C (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__16786__ZIPPY_Flightmax_5000mAh_3S1P_20C_USA_Warehouse_.html)
  -Transmitter/Rec - HobbyKing HK-GT2B (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=31671&aff=877196)
  -Voltage alarm - (1 x each battery) On Board Lipoly Low Voltage Alarm 2s~4s (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18987__on_board_lipoly_low_voltage_alarm_2s_4s_.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjw7b-gBRC45uLY_avSrdgBEiQAD3OlxwLf81YaV7NpBbEwBFUpZwCI7HC8vJR_s76iGUTUqWQaAgpJ8P8HAQ)
  -Parallel charging board -Hobbyking Parallel charging Board for 6 packs 2~6S (EC3) (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__41188__Hobbyking_Parallel_charging_Board_for_6_packs_2_6S_EC3_USA_warehouse_.html?strSearch=parall)
  -Wire 10awg
  -Kill switch - XT90 plug + 10awg loop

Should I get a standalone balancer or will the one built into my charger suffice? Is a 190kv motor too low?

 

[torqueboards]

The battery medic from HK is good to have. Helps trying to balance just one pack if a charger won't balance it. It's about $10 bucks well worth it.

Drop through is definitely nice being closer to the floor. However, if you ride where the streets aren't smooth then you'll feel all the bumps. Since I ride in the city and there are not really smooth pavements I ended up switching back to the top mount as it's a much more cushioned ride.

 

[drmacgyver]

Not sure if the battery medic is better/different, but I've got that charger on your list and it does balance successfully. I balance charge pretty much every time (I've read this isn't always necessary, but safe to do). I've been using one 280kv 5055 motor and it's been good for 1.5ish miles per ride (doesn't get TOO hot). What I gather from reading the forum is that your best bet is to get a higher kv motor, but not higher than 300kv. My wheels and belt busted before any of the electronics (6mos of riding rough roads caused the core of my drive wheel to shatter, which led to my belt snapping). So I would definitely recommend you keep in mind what your usual terrain will be when building. There's a couple different pneumatic wheels popping up now on the forum, so it might pay to start with those, as opposed to normal longboard/skate wheels. Non-MBS pneumatics weren't available when I started my build, but I'll be switching to those very soon out of necessity. And I've got the same deck you've listed and it works for the cheapest available.

 

[Flowhow]

Hey,
my build will be nearly the same as yours.

Except the ESC.
This is way to expensive.
Isnt it possible to use the Hobbyking HK150A?

Or is there another ESC in this price level? (With a brake)

I´ll use 2x5000mAh 40C. Is this better for the range and torque?

Thanks

 

[torqueboards]

@Flowhow - You can use (2) 3S 5000mah 20C Zippy Flightmax on HobbyKing. Much cheaper at about $22/each.

You can use an HK 150A ESC it is a bit loud. If you can wait we will sell our "Open Source ESC" eventually.

 

[drmacgyver]

I've been using the HK150 esc and it has been working great. Works seamlessly with the wiiceiver too if you plan on getting one. I've read you can take the fan off and it will be fine. I'm thinking about trying it to lower the profile and I'll add a heatsink to its individual housing. My battery is a 6s5000mah turnigy, but I have 2x3s8000mah zippy's I've been meaning to switch to (need to solder EC5 connectors). My board is out of commission for the meantime anyways.

 

[superfluous_pants]

@torqueboards - I've ordered my kit (63mm), and would like to place my order to hobbyking shortly. The motor I'm planning to use says 32mm bolt holes, will this be compatible with your kit? It looks like the 8mm shaft size will work?

Thanks again for the feedback!

 

[razad7@gmail.com]

for you drop-through question.

you can mount a drop through deck either - top mount or drop through.
There is no problem with this (except maybe a little cosmetics :wink: )

 

[torqueboards]

@torqueboards - I've ordered my kit (63mm), and would like to place my order to hobbyking shortly. The motor I'm planning to use says 32mm bolt holes, will this be compatible with your kit? It looks like the 8mm shaft size will work?

Thanks again for the feedback!

Yes, it will work with any 63mm SK3 motor with a bolt spacing of 32mm. Let me know if you plan to drop through as I have the motor mounts set higher that way they are not as close to the ground. Previously, I had them setup for clearance for a drop through but most people didn't use a drop through deck.

 

[superfluous_pants]

Thanks! I'm thinking I will do a normal top-mount on the board. I live in DC and the roads can be pretty rough.