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FLIPSKY new 20s 100A tiny controller (vesc based)

Battery cells should be the LG MH1 (10A). They advertise 17,5ah but that cell is 3200mah so that would be a 16ah if it’s a 13s5p battery. Cells should be able to provide 50A though. Correct me if I’m wrong, I’m new to this. I don’t know about the BMS but I’ve seen other people daily driving this 35A peak controller with this bike with no issues. I should have some margin for improvement.

I looked at other, easier to setup options, but all sine wave controllers that I could find were either too big to fit in the bike's frame (it’s a folding bike) or too expensive. (I’m looking for a sine wave controller because I want a quieter and smoother ride also). The next best option would be to modify the case of a Sabvoton 7545.

I’m ok with learning the vesc interface. My concern is that no matter how hard I try, I might not be able to make this run properly because some settings are very technical and I saw that even some pros struggle with it. I’m wondering if the reported issues are intrinsic to this particular controller or are related to specific battery-motor configurations that push this controller to its limits / improper vesc setup. Or maybe they only affect the first version of this controller which was prone to overheating.
 
Basically new cells would be able to provide that 50 amps, so if you have put it through some charge cycles, it would have dropped a bit. If you have witnessed 35A being used with no problems, it's probably fine to start there. If you have power cutting out, then you have to figure out if it's the BMS stopping the controller from asking too much or the controller overheating/hitting upper limits of amperage or temps.

It does seem like the initial version suffered the most from the temperature problems since the aluminum heatsink on the revision is pretty big. Also if you are willing to dive into sabvoton settings, I am betting the vesc will be easier to interact with (no direct experience with sabvoton I just see a lot of questions and frustration from users online).

I've been following this other thread since the controller came out, pretty extensive testing, troubleshooting and firmware releases on there. How to update firmware on the Flipsky 75100 & 75200 FOC ESC


TL;DR: yeah, the small footprint is probably worth it for the aluminum heat sink version and some patience with settings unless you can find a slightly cheaper option. Make certain you have your battery current setting and phase filtering set to off properly as described in that esk8 post
 
I’ve read the entire thread—a lot of technical stuff that went over my head. I still can’t understand if one can make this work as a daily driver with a cheap Chinese ebike. I’ve read people complaining about motor noise, poor acceleration from 0km/h and other issues, but they all use big, powerful motors. I have a 20” fat bike with a 750W geared hub motor, 48v battery, 20A max, 10A rated controller. I’m looking to replace the original controller with something that will give me more power and a quieter and smoother ride.
With your underpowered battery you won't, and very likely you will ovearheat your motor. If you can, Sell your battery and motor and get a bbshd, 72v battery and VESC or get the BBSHD with 52v battery and use it stock. Get a small charing on the front because it's a fat bike and you are good to go.

This threat is for mostly overpowered, over-the-top, very fast bikes, scooters, etc... Based on what you said, doesn't look like that what you are looking for.

If I am wrong, please forgive me :)
 
With your underpowered battery you won't, and very likely you will ovearheat your motor. If you can, Sell your battery and motor and get a bbshd, 72v battery and VESC or get the BBSHD with 52v battery and use it stock. Get a small charing on the front because it's a fat bike and you are good to go.

This threat is for mostly overpowered, over-the-top, very fast bikes, scooters, etc... Based on what you said, doesn't look like that what you are looking for.

If I am wrong, please forgive me :)
That’s way over budget. I’m just looking to gain some extra performance while staying within the thermal limits of the motor. In a different forum, I’ve seen people use a cheap 35A peak controller with this bike with good results so there should be room for improvement from stock.
 
So why aren't you doing the same thing, if that's what you want?
I'm looking for a sine wave controller (I want a quieter and smoother ride) with a "legal" profile (no throttle, 25km/h top speed) and the ability to switch between legal and off road on the fly.
 
I'm looking for a sine wave controller (I want a quieter and smoother ride) with a "legal" profile (no throttle, 25km/h top speed) and the ability to switch between legal and off road on the fly.

Me too!
 
VESC's themselves (most that I've found) don't really support toggle-mode-switches.

You can always hookup a CA for control and have profiles that way.

Depending on how "easy" you want modes, the Voyage Mini (previously "metr") add-on for VESC's has a mobile app with swappable profiles, including the ability to set a profile "temporarily" (till the next vesc restart). It's, of course, polite to turn off the bike if stopped -- and when it turns on, of course it's at legal limits.
 
VESC's themselves (most that I've found) don't really support toggle-mode-switches.

You can always hookup a CA for control and have profiles that way.

Depending on how "easy" you want modes, the Voyage Mini (previously "metr") add-on for VESC's has a mobile app with swappable profiles, including the ability to set a profile "temporarily" (till the next vesc restart). It's, of course, polite to turn off the bike if stopped -- and when it turns on, of course it's at legal limits.
The normal vesc tool app has profiles just the same as you mentioned for the metr app. The flipsky "pro" version had Bluetooth built in that you can use the app and profiles with or a cheap nrf51 adapter for the older controllers.
You can set a % of current or watts and a speed limit for each profile. I mainly use it for a quick current adjustment so I can have full power for playing around off road and another for my commute without the bbshd getting too hot after a few miles at wot.
 
Is there a way to quickly switch between profiles with a button or do you have to reload the profile each time with the app?
 
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