LewTwo
1 MW
BINGOPaPaSteve said:
I got the wrong one.Which brings me back full circle to designing and building a custom frame for a full grown adult.PaPaSteve said:
Giant Revive Semi Recumbent
- Thread starter LewTwo
- Start date
I got the wrong one.Hillhater
100 TW
Why the dislike of derailiers ?
..they are the ultimate in efficiency and simplicity…
But it is also possible to get a dual speed hub motor
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=116834
Ps…if the shock spring gets to be an issue…. Just switch to a cheap air shock….fully adjustable !
..they are the ultimate in efficiency and simplicity…
But it is also possible to get a dual speed hub motor
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=116834
Ps…if the shock spring gets to be an issue…. Just switch to a cheap air shock….fully adjustable !
LewTwo
1 MW
In over six decades of various bicycles this is my second derailleur ... fidgety damned things.Hillhater said:
The one on this bike needs adjustment so that it stops jumping out of low gear.
IGH hubs are heavier but in my experience they just plain work.
The only IGH I ever had trouble from came as a basket case and I could not get back together correctly.
Texas is mostly so flat that it is boring. I doubt the two speed motor would offer any advantage. Actually the only time I might pedal is when the electric systems fails. That is how I messed up my left leg and can now barely pedal at all.
You are absolutely correct on the air shock ... that was another option.
PaPaSteve
1 kW
My most recent build uses a Nexus 7 IGH with a Bafang 750 BBS02 on 26" wheels.
Generally, I like these hubs but in this case it was the wrong choice.
Not enough low gear ... Not enough high gear.
Ended up adding a second chainring on the front for more gear range.
This bike could use even more gear range.
We have hills though.
Generally, I like these hubs but in this case it was the wrong choice.
Not enough low gear ... Not enough high gear.
Ended up adding a second chainring on the front for more gear range.
This bike could use even more gear range.
We have hills though.
Attachments
LewTwo
1 MW
NIce... I want a tad more height. I want the cage operator to look me in the eyes before they run over mePaPaSteve said:
I wonder how many more close calls riders get on those lower then usual for normal bicycle standard, recumbent. I always take an aback when I come across the velomobile guy or those bents that are lower then usual. A tall flag and bright, neon colors help. Me, I will just add more wh to offset aerodynamic drag which can be significant, obviously going faster. Physical ailments those recumbents help a lot. Back sufferers can get out and enjoy riding.
Cagers are more likely to be looking at their cell phone, while speeding and running lights.
Cagers are more likely to be looking at their cell phone, while speeding and running lights.
LewTwo said:NIce... I want a tad more height. I want the cage operator to look me in the eyes before they run over mePaPaSteve said:
PaPaSteve
1 kW
Fortunately, the travelers in this galaxy are friendly and alert.
Experience might help ... the recumbent format has been my primary pedaling method since the early 80's.
Seat height for the bikes presented in the pictures are actually higher then some cars ...
Examples :
911, 356, Miata, RX7, Corvette ... etc.
As Always
Your Results May Vary
Experience might help ... the recumbent format has been my primary pedaling method since the early 80's.
Seat height for the bikes presented in the pictures are actually higher then some cars ...
Examples :
911, 356, Miata, RX7, Corvette ... etc.
As Always
Your Results May Vary
https://www.corvetteblogger.com/2022/07/09/accident-watch-as-a-distracted-driver-rolls-right-over-a-c4-corvette/PaPaSteve said:
PaPaSteve
1 kW
amberwolf said:
And, as we all are aware, when riding an upright bicycle there is a magic shield preventing any harm due to others inattention.
Have you heard ... motorcycles with loud pipes are the safest vehicle on the road !
LewTwo
1 MW
not in a quite residential neighbor hood ... a 12 gauge is louderPaPaSteve said:
LewTwo
1 MW
OK ... I promised to take a closer look in the "clear light of day" .... I did that.
All I will say at the moment is that PaPaSteve was correct.
I was just looking at how replacing the existing rigid fork with an air suspension fork would affect the geometry of the bike. The suspension fork has a crown to axle distance of 395 mm with an offset of 35 mm. This results in the steerer tube angle increasing from 30 to about 33.75 degrees. The BB goes from 292 to 338 mm (about 1.8 inch increase). The seat height increases by 14 mm (about 1/2 inch).
The big change is the Front wheel "trail". It increases from 83 mm to 126 mm. That is an increase of 43 mm (1.7 inches).
Question:
How will this affect the bicycle handling.
I have seen some references that say:
All I will say at the moment is that PaPaSteve was correct.
I was just looking at how replacing the existing rigid fork with an air suspension fork would affect the geometry of the bike. The suspension fork has a crown to axle distance of 395 mm with an offset of 35 mm. This results in the steerer tube angle increasing from 30 to about 33.75 degrees. The BB goes from 292 to 338 mm (about 1.8 inch increase). The seat height increases by 14 mm (about 1/2 inch).
The big change is the Front wheel "trail". It increases from 83 mm to 126 mm. That is an increase of 43 mm (1.7 inches).
Question:
How will this affect the bicycle handling.
I have seen some references that say:
Chalo
100 TW
More trail isn't better, more stable, or anything else. You want the right amount for what you're doing: generally 40-70mm for pavement and a little more for dirt and other things that aren't good for riding on.
The faster you go, the more important it is to have enough trail. The more time you spend at low speeds, the more important it is not to have too much trail. If you routinely move at higher than humanly possible speeds, it would make sense to use longer trail than the same bike would use with human power alone.
Trail corresponds somewhat directly with "flop", or the tendency for the bike's rolling weight to push the front wheel to an oblique angle instead of center. A bike with excessive trail flops intractable at low speed, but usually tracks steady at high speed. (Too much trail can sometimes contribute to headshake/tank-slappers, though.) A bike with short trail handles well at low speed and with lots of weight on the front wheel, but feels fidgety at high speed.
My casual observation is that both bicycle and motorcycle manufacturers err on the side of too much trail rather than not enough. So far it has always improved a bike's handling when I replaced the fork with one that has longer offset (rake).
The faster you go, the more important it is to have enough trail. The more time you spend at low speeds, the more important it is not to have too much trail. If you routinely move at higher than humanly possible speeds, it would make sense to use longer trail than the same bike would use with human power alone.
Trail corresponds somewhat directly with "flop", or the tendency for the bike's rolling weight to push the front wheel to an oblique angle instead of center. A bike with excessive trail flops intractable at low speed, but usually tracks steady at high speed. (Too much trail can sometimes contribute to headshake/tank-slappers, though.) A bike with short trail handles well at low speed and with lots of weight on the front wheel, but feels fidgety at high speed.
My casual observation is that both bicycle and motorcycle manufacturers err on the side of too much trail rather than not enough. So far it has always improved a bike's handling when I replaced the fork with one that has longer offset (rake).
PaPaSteve
1 kW
The worst case scenario happens when stopped.
When stopped, removing your hands from the handlebars the steering may suddenly turn. This is "flop"
All bikes have "flop", some have more then others.
This much change will cause the bike to flop more readily.
The trail length changes be 30% ?
This increased lever length will be felt as slightly more pressure at the hands when in motion. (measured in inch pounds).
On steep, slow hill climbs where the front end weight is reduced it may feel twitchier. Lean forward for better control.
Humans are incredibly adaptable ... if suspension is what you want you'll learn the nuances and make it work.
When stopped, removing your hands from the handlebars the steering may suddenly turn. This is "flop"
All bikes have "flop", some have more then others.
This much change will cause the bike to flop more readily.
The trail length changes be 30% ?
This increased lever length will be felt as slightly more pressure at the hands when in motion. (measured in inch pounds).
On steep, slow hill climbs where the front end weight is reduced it may feel twitchier. Lean forward for better control.
Humans are incredibly adaptable ... if suspension is what you want you'll learn the nuances and make it work.
LewTwo
1 MW
Thank you gentlemen.
I finally received the Tioga SPECTR tire. I mounted it on the stock rim which turned out to have an internal width of only 21.6 mm. This is a 120 TPI tire rated for 35 to 100 PSI. I foolishly tried test the high pressure. At 50 PSI it blew off the rim with about a foot long split in the new inner tube. Fortunately I ordered a pair of tubes. The second time I stopped at 5 PSI and checked to be sure the tire bead was centered. Then I inflated it to 32 PSI and stopped.
I also managed to swap the 600 pound spring on the shock with the 300 pound FOX spring. It needed a 22 mm wrench however I managed to use something else. I got it back together but lost a little oil in the process and had the slippery hands to prove it. The spring is a bit longer so I have lots of preload if needed.
I also adjusted the cable tension for the derailleur so that it would stay in first gear. A bit of oil in a few places and some adjustments to the brakes and wheel bearing cones. The normal maintenance stuff that had not been done in a while.
Then I took it for a short ride around the complex parking lot. The difference was like night and day. I have about 1/2 inch of sag in the 1-1/2 stroke. The rear suspension actually worked but the front wheel could use a bit of help as well.
I am targeting 20-25 MPH on flat pavement. I will use a 'centering' spring to decrease the flop tendency.
I finally received the Tioga SPECTR tire. I mounted it on the stock rim which turned out to have an internal width of only 21.6 mm. This is a 120 TPI tire rated for 35 to 100 PSI. I foolishly tried test the high pressure. At 50 PSI it blew off the rim with about a foot long split in the new inner tube. Fortunately I ordered a pair of tubes. The second time I stopped at 5 PSI and checked to be sure the tire bead was centered. Then I inflated it to 32 PSI and stopped.
I also managed to swap the 600 pound spring on the shock with the 300 pound FOX spring. It needed a 22 mm wrench however I managed to use something else. I got it back together but lost a little oil in the process and had the slippery hands to prove it. The spring is a bit longer so I have lots of preload if needed.
I also adjusted the cable tension for the derailleur so that it would stay in first gear. A bit of oil in a few places and some adjustments to the brakes and wheel bearing cones. The normal maintenance stuff that had not been done in a while.
Then I took it for a short ride around the complex parking lot. The difference was like night and day. I have about 1/2 inch of sag in the 1-1/2 stroke. The rear suspension actually worked but the front wheel could use a bit of help as well.
I am targeting 20-25 MPH on flat pavement. I will use a 'centering' spring to decrease the flop tendency.
LewTwo
1 MW
OK ... I said the PaPaSteve had been correct. In the clear light of day I took another hard look at the rear swing arm, some more pictures and some more precise measurements. Then I completely redrew the swing arm. I found that I might just be able to get the BBS02 mounted in the existing BB with minimal interference. There is one place on the non-drive side where I might need to remove a bit of material. Also I will likely need to reroute the two cables under the dropout to go between the swing arms rather than below them.
Having also changed the rear tire and spring out has vastly improved the suspension and handling. I have decided to pull the trigger and attempt installing a BBS02. To that end I have started a proper build thread:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=117124
Having also changed the rear tire and spring out has vastly improved the suspension and handling. I have decided to pull the trigger and attempt installing a BBS02. To that end I have started a proper build thread:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=117124
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