GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400

Some action with my GNG. I got more than 1 hour of riding using the motor as a jump booster and pedaling with just a little motor from one jump to another! Perfect for what I like to do.

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Super video, bzh! Thanks for making me feel better about my GNG purchase. Rode 10 miles yesterday (testing a 20 aHr pack at the same time) and didn't like the binding feel I was getting around mid rpm. Feels like the chain drive side of the assembly is having some issues. Still thinking of changing that little jockey cog for a roller. Anybody else having issues with the chain drive side?
 
Cyclebutt said:
Super video, bzh! Thanks for making me feel better about my GNG purchase. Rode 10 miles yesterday (testing a 20 aHr pack at the same time) and didn't like the binding feel I was getting around mid rpm. Feels like the chain drive side of the assembly is having some issues. Still thinking of changing that little jockey cog for a roller. Anybody else having issues with the chain drive side?
You have to keep the primary chain properly adjusted and lubricated to get rid of that resonance. The chain stretches a lot when it's new while all the waxy grease has to work its way out. Assuming yours is standard, you just loosen and tighten the pivot bolt, and the spring pulls the wheel to the chain to tension it.
 
Just completed a 6 mile ride with the bike in 7th gear the whole time except when coming back up the hill to the house. Half the time I cruised over 20 MPH with no pedaling. Used 200WH. On the hill I started in 3rd gear and when it dropped under 10 MPH in the 15% area I shifted to 2nd gear and it picked back up to 11 MPH. This bike has 700C rims with 2.125" tires.

The chain hasn't given me any problems. I had tried leaving the pivot bolt slightly loose with loc tite on the threads, but the spring stretched and the bolt also got too loose so today I just put a little presure on the idler and tightened the bolt down.

I solved my quick throttle response problem by adding a thumb nub to the full twist throttle. Now I can control the twisting of the throttle more precisely. A thumb nub is just an accessory clamp added to one end of the full twist throttle. See the picture below.

If this system holds up I will be very satisfied with it. I prefer my trike so it will take a while to rack up very many miles.
 

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christerljung & DV8 -

With the stock controller,(did) do you get a large initial power draw when mating the battery ? On my bench tests (two controllers), there's a big 'snap' arc when power is first applied to the controller, at zero throttle. I plan to run a separate automotive relay and small weatherproof low amp "on/off" switch to connect power (40a ; $5 US @ radio shack or car supply). It seems in one of Christerljung's video that there was a 'snap' when he mated his battery cable. Perhaps a large capacitor or a coil, as a filter could be added to tone down the initial power spike - I'm not a electrical type, maybe a smart 'sparky' could comment. If it were a wet, partially raining day, could be exciting in a bad way. Full on rain, no way.
Example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/12VDC-40A-SPST-Automotive-Relay-4505486-/160900293045?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257667a1b5

Also, Christerljung, could you share the Lyen controller settings that you are using, as it is programmable right ?

Thanks again for all these great posts on GNG mid-drive unit.
 
That snap when you connect the battery to the controller occurs as the capacitor fills up. It is harmless, but will deteriate the connectors over time. There have been many discussions on the forum of how to eliminate the "snap". I have always just used a DC circuit breaker. The snap still occurs, but it is inside the breaker and doesn't make you jump.
 
Actually i like the snapsound. It gives a little extra adrenaline push just before you ride away :mrgreen:
But ofcourse the snapping will break the connector sooner or later, thats bad. I dont think you will experience any personal damage in wet conditions. But all electrical should be well protected from rain.
I did a 8km ride in rain yesterday and enjoyed the snapping several times, it was just a little rain.

Lyen had the controller programmed in advance when i bought it, i actually dont know the setup, but the USB-cable just arrived so i will check the parameters soon.
 
d8veh said:
Cyclebutt said:
Super video, bzh! Thanks for making me feel better about my GNG purchase. Rode 10 miles yesterday (testing a 20 aHr pack at the same time) and didn't like the binding feel I was getting around mid rpm. Feels like the chain drive side of the assembly is having some issues. Still thinking of changing that little jockey cog for a roller. Anybody else having issues with the chain drive side?
You have to keep the primary chain properly adjusted and lubricated to get rid of that resonance. The chain stretches a lot when it's new while all the waxy grease has to work its way out. Assuming yours is standard, you just loosen and tighten the pivot bolt, and the spring pulls the wheel to the chain to tension it.
Thanks d8veh. Will do. I changed the spring for a much stronger one, helps too.
 

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I'm thinking about getting one of these. Curious about the consumption during normal road riding. I have a newer currie motor I want to mount like I did before to drive the cranks. That would be a lot lighter weight than this, but not as much power I'm sure.

Combining this kit with a hub motor would be the ultimate in hill climbing AND efficiency. If I get a job on the west side I will have to do such a build to get up the 15% grades that are 300 feet high.
 
Normally I wait until I've received products before posting but I just ordered the GNG 48v BLdC mid drive kit, speed post shipping has gone up a tad but still quite reasonable!

I decided to post premature because within 10 minutes of ordering the kit, I received the following email:

Dear Michael,
Thank you for purchasing the 48v450w brushless mid bike kit ,we will send it by speed post ASAP.Could you please provide your phone number to the post office for delivery purpose.Thank you!
Best regards
Jon

This is literally the fastest communication response I've ever received from an overseas vendor!

Not sure what platform this will be installed on yet but it's either going on a Downtube Nova 20" folder (currently I have 1 with a geared rear hub, 1 with a geared front hub and 1 with an Astro Flight 3220 and Recumpence eDrive v3) or onto my Dahon Jack 26" folder to replace the front geared hub I overheated running at 100v and 30a (my fault entirely).

I will post a build thread once I receive the kit and see how it will fit up but thanks to SpinningMagnets and everyone else for bringing this reasonably priced mid drive kit to my attention, I've been hoping for a brushless and legally powered mid/crank drive kit for some time... hopefully this will be the one!

-Mike
 
Take it apart, straighten everything and put it back together. Certainly not worth sending it back. Hope nothing is actually broken.
 
:( I feel your pain man!


For those wondering how the freewheeling crankset is done :
8097705317_3c0ff92e65_c.jpg
 
Bent-up repair:
My first GNG unit was bent-up worse in shipping, and subsequently sent emails to GNG about double boxing more securely. Not surprised to see another one bent -up likewise. It's a hassle to pull it apart, straighten the plates and put it back - But, I strongly suggest it anyway, having done it twice. It's a good plan to recheck all the torque, chain alignment, add a few extra nylocs with longer bolts (if you're fanatic, upgrade some bolts, M3, M5 metric, long, hard to find) , plus red thread locker anywhere you can. Also grease the chain idler (was dry), and set it so it rotates free with spring tension. Check chain alignment carefully. Also suggest, add a 'dot' of red nail polish on all the bolts so you can see if any come loose at a glance, before parts fall off on the road/trail. I would *not* replace any of the spacers with nylon, as in another thread, which will cause a loss of overall stiffness between the main mount plates, and pulley cover. Kinda hokey there's a lot of different spacers stacked up, but with a few washers it works to your advantage when you tweak alignments.

Your bent plates are not that bad in the grand scheme, you can fix it with a little patience, use good size pliers and crescent wrench. In the end, your unit will be better than when it shipped out. Bolt it down, run it on the bench, and check the runout. Even when they aren't damaged the runout is not ideal, so don't freak. An example bench run, repost from earlier: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vX2OaCj7gN4&feature=youtu.be

What you may want to watch out for is the controller, if the shipping box was badly whacked, electrnx may have suffered. I had to get another controller shipped, and GNG was pretty cool about it, shipped back bad one, got new one, as it should be.

Good luck !
 
Subscribed :D Started reading the thread as I was going to bed, couldn't put it down and stayed up to 2am to finish it. I've nearly hit the 'but-it'now' button twice on this thing. I feel confident to go ahead now. I hope I have something to contribute when I tweak my set-up.
 
Oooh, the runout in that video is terrible!!! I'd be taking it apart and remaking it all on my lathe as soon as I got it!
 
:?: for the guys running this unit :?:

if the pedal cadance is truely in the 150 range, are you able to contribute any meaningfull power to the set up?
the last unit I built didn't "come alive" untill we dropped the cadence to something a human can do......

Finalising a custom build For GCinDC & would like to hear the consensus....I am shooting for a 90ish cadance. at top speed this equates to 28mph (plenty for off roading)

the GNG would not fit the wide BB on a Giant DH comp.
 
Several folks have run alternate controllers at to 72v volts (and a one at 36v to bring down cadence), but has anyone pushed the GNG factory controller to 60 or 70v ?
Before mating in another controller, was wondering if anyone has done up-voltage tests with the stock box... inquiring minds .. bench tests showed the controller was cool, no problem, even after the motor got to 145 F, many thnx.
 
The stock controller got its upper volt limit somewhere where the capacitors maximum voltage level is reach. It was disassembled in a post somewhere... and caps value were mentioned, maybe 63v. I will look for it.
It was in a post by Full-throttle:
FETs: 9 x STP80NF70 (68V, 8.2mOhm, 98A)
63V caps
NEC micro
The pedal cadence vs motor rpm seem to be in a perfect balance in this kit. (At least for me)
 
Does it have a low voltage cutoff? seems like 36v or 44v may be more appropriate for this kit.
 
Thud said:
:?: for the guys running this unit :?:

if the pedal cadance is truely in the 150 range, are you able to contribute any meaningfull power to the set up?
the last unit I built didn't "come alive" untill we dropped the cadence to something a human can do......

Finalising a custom build For GCinDC & would like to hear the consensus...

Hi Thud,

Although I dont run a GNG; I would assume that my cyclone setup (@48v) would be similar...............to get any 'meaningful pedal contribution' I had to get the cadence down to 88rpm (according to Sheldon Browns calculator) that meant a custom pedal sprocket (64t I think and 13t motor freewheel).....with this gearing and an 8 speed IG hub in the rear (with 13t cog) I can pedal along full throttle in any gear (up to the 45mph max).......not a chance @150rpm :roll:
My guess it would need different pulleys?

Ian :D
 
I bent the bottom bracket axle today doing some really big jumps. The GNG is SO great but kinda hard to maintain doing what I do :/ The performance is insane really considering its only 1200w max, I have been making so much progress on tail whips! now, I need to find a way to get a new BB :/
 
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