speedmd
10 MW
+1 on removing the end screw.
I think BEE must be your last name. Magilla maybe your first.
:lol:
I think BEE must be your last name. Magilla maybe your first.
:lol:
-
Howdy! we're looking for donations to finish custom knowledgebase software for this forum. Please see our Funding drive thread
GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400
- Thread starter spinningmagnets
- Start date
bee
100 W
Hehe I did remove the end nut, the freewheel is just really stuck. I think these things have fairly varied tolerances and some of us are getting parts that are more stuck together than others.
LightningRods
1 MW
bee said:
You can get an inexpensive gear puller set from Harbor Freight that will pull it easy.
Skyungjae didn't you work out a better secondary driver freewheel? Are you thinking the jackshaft end may be different now?
I'm working on replacement parts for all of this stuff, especially that trouble prone little freewheel. If you have or can find #25 sprockets with a 5 1/4" bolt ring the adapter plate that I had made for the BB freewheel will connect the two. Then you can use a full size freewheel on the primary side and either get a fixed sprocket for the secondary driver or weld up the freewheel.
speedmd
10 MW
Hi Bee
Glad that you are a good sport with my teasing. If it has thread locker/ bearing retaining compound on it, you will need a bit of heat. Black light shows it up easily.
r3volved
100 kW
skyungjae said:
Thank you thank you!
That eliminated about 80% of my noise!
Went from sounding like a drill on steroids to sounding like a bee in a jar
...i never really took notice of that plastic disk
iovaykind
10 kW
I put silicone between the plastic piece and the body.. eliminated the noise without getting rid of it.
skyungjae
10 kW
LightningRods said:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=42785&p=748459#p748459
Seems to have gotten buried. :|
I passed 1000 km today mostly trail riding.
Very happy with the T-50 staple mod and the 24 tooth sprocket. Now I can climb the steepest hill I know and barely slow down. I was trail blazing through tall grass and brush (just to get away from the dog walkers).
I attached the 24 tooth directly to the freewheel. Check the Robertson screws- another Canadian invention.
Very happy with the T-50 staple mod and the 24 tooth sprocket. Now I can climb the steepest hill I know and barely slow down. I was trail blazing through tall grass and brush (just to get away from the dog walkers).
I attached the 24 tooth directly to the freewheel. Check the Robertson screws- another Canadian invention.
Attachments
LightningRods
1 MW
More on the freewheel thread compatibility issue:
I just ordered a crate of Cyclone ISIS BB cranksets to use on my upcoming complete kit. The threads on the Cyclone crank arms are compatible with the 1.375"-24tpi standard freewheel thread. The flanged ACS I have threaded right on with no interference. The Cyclone set ships with a five bolt Dicta freewheel. I also bought 10 extra heavy duty freewheels from Cyclone that look suspiciously identical to the ACS.
The 16 tooth freewheel that comes with the GNG will not fully thread onto the Cyclone arm. I bought a pulley some time back that had a cheap Chinese 4 bolt freewheel that fits the GNG crank arm and freewheel hub adapter on the jackshaft. It doesn't fit the Cyclone crank arm.
I just put the GNG and Cyclone crank arms side by side and scanned them. The Cyclone threads are exactly 24 threads per inch. The GNG threads are just over 25 threads per inch which comes out to 1.0 thread per mm, a standard metric thread pitch. I flipped the image of the Cyclone threads over the bottom of the GNG so you can see the mismatch.
This is why people have had so much trouble with the GNG crank arm threads stripping out. It is a metric thread. The freewheel adapter on the primary side of the jackshaft has the same 1.0 thread per mm thread pitch. Dicta, ACS and White Ind freewheels will not thread onto it without damaging the threads.
I just ordered a crate of Cyclone ISIS BB cranksets to use on my upcoming complete kit. The threads on the Cyclone crank arms are compatible with the 1.375"-24tpi standard freewheel thread. The flanged ACS I have threaded right on with no interference. The Cyclone set ships with a five bolt Dicta freewheel. I also bought 10 extra heavy duty freewheels from Cyclone that look suspiciously identical to the ACS.
The 16 tooth freewheel that comes with the GNG will not fully thread onto the Cyclone arm. I bought a pulley some time back that had a cheap Chinese 4 bolt freewheel that fits the GNG crank arm and freewheel hub adapter on the jackshaft. It doesn't fit the Cyclone crank arm.
I just put the GNG and Cyclone crank arms side by side and scanned them. The Cyclone threads are exactly 24 threads per inch. The GNG threads are just over 25 threads per inch which comes out to 1.0 thread per mm, a standard metric thread pitch. I flipped the image of the Cyclone threads over the bottom of the GNG so you can see the mismatch.
This is why people have had so much trouble with the GNG crank arm threads stripping out. It is a metric thread. The freewheel adapter on the primary side of the jackshaft has the same 1.0 thread per mm thread pitch. Dicta, ACS and White Ind freewheels will not thread onto it without damaging the threads.
skyungjae
10 kW
I think those heavy duty freewheels that Cyclone sells are a fantastic cost solution in comparison to the White Industries. I'm pretty sure they're identical to the ACS 10 hole flanged freewheels minus the branding. It seems like they spin with less resistance as well.
I did get one and was curious how it would hold up to dust and sand, but I ended up giving it to a friend who hasn't built up his GNG 1.1/cyclone chainring kit yet.
It's annoying that the threading is ever so slightly different.
I did get one and was curious how it would hold up to dust and sand, but I ended up giving it to a friend who hasn't built up his GNG 1.1/cyclone chainring kit yet.
It's annoying that the threading is ever so slightly different.
LightningRods
1 MW
skyungjae said:
Here is the Cyclone Heavy Duty next to the ACS. Pretty identical other than the color of the metal. The pawl sound from the ACS is a sharper and louder "click".
The text on the Cyclone says "Power Removal System by DNP Made by Cold-Forged technology"
bee
100 W
You using the pedals at all now? I've been dropping my sprocket size slowly to improve strength/reliability.scrone said:
E-Norco
10 W
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2013
- Messages
- 72
skyungjae
10 kW
E-Norco said:
If you cut the legs shorter on the staple you can draw more amps. I cut the leg length in half and my controller will peak at 37A. It's a bit much though for my batteries. It's easy, even with more than half capacity left on my off-the-shelf battery, to hit the LVC on my cycle analyst.
I may put in a full legged staple or simply remove it altogether. It kinda sucks having to partial throttle and keep an eye on the sag when the battery still has so many Ah left.
speedmd
10 MW
Good catch LightningRods. Fortunately many have been able to screw on a standard freewheel and still have some threads remaining on the crank arm. Answers the 1.37 vs 1.375 issue for good. It is neither. I am leaving mine assembled until it dies. Also answers why I can find the metric 1mm pitch dies on Ali but very few 1.375x24 anywhere in the east. The Taiwan crank threads look much higher quality from your photo also. Looks like it will be best to start over with a completely new setup.
Also answers why I can find the metric 1mm pitch dies on Ali but very few 1.375x24 anywhere in the east. The Taiwan crank threads look much higher quality from your photo also. Looks like it will be best to start over with a completely new setup.
LightningRods
1 MW
speedmd said:Good catch LightningRods. Fortunately many have been able to screw on a standard freewheel and still have some threads remaining on the crank arm. Answers the 1.37 vs 1.375 issue for good. It is neither. I am leaving mine assembled until it dies.
Yeah, it seems that they are all 1.375" diameter within some tolerance range. 1.375" is very close to 35mm (1.378"). Most are 24 threads per inch, some are 1 thread per millimeter. We just need to know which is which. If it threads on easily for 1/3 to 1/2 of the distance and then binds up, it's not the right thread. For those who have muscled past the binding point and made it work, you should consider that a one time deal. If you threaded steel freewheel to aluminum alloy crank arm, you'll need to buy a new crank arm along with the next freewheel.
The threads and everything else on the Cyclone BB are of much higher quality than the GNG parts. I feel good about putting the Cyclone BB on my bike.
speedmd
10 MW
The M35x1.0 taps and dies are common. Ebay has a bunch listed for under $20. Not any of these tools I can find reasonable for the english thread. Me thinks, that is where this may be headed eventually on this secondary (non hub) type items.
LightningRods
1 MW
Miles said:
That's a great price Miles! I've found 1.375"-24tpi taps and dies in the US but they are several times that amount.
speedmd
10 MW
Great find miles. Have not used the MSDS catalog, but they are local ground delivery for us and lots of discounted / import items. Look to be a low priced off shoot of MSC. At $40 for the 1-3/8 x24 die, it would be worth having to clean up the fits on the stock arms if you had a bunch of them to do or were making a few gear / pulley hubs.
Similar threads
