Jay64
100 kW
This is kinda small, hard to see, but it is the setup I have at the controller.
Golf Cart
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Jay64
100 kW
This is supposed to be the wiring diagram for the TXT. But what are these coils that the red arrow is pointing at? I don't have any thing that looks like that on my cart.
Jay64
100 kW
Would those be 6v batteries in the diagram then?
Jay64
100 kW
Wait, I just was actually going through this diagram and realized that there is no controller in this one.
Jay64
100 kW
Fechter, I don't think this is an alltrax controller, at least it isn't branded as one like all the other alltrax units I've seen.
TylerDurden
100 GW
The above diagram switches between large resistive coils to limit current, similar to most fans in automotive ventilation systems.
AFAICT those coils are the "controller". Shorting across thema t the various round points is how the "throttle" works and changes the speed.
Jay64
100 kW
Ok, yeah, that's not what I have. It would be nice to find the exact OEM wiring diagram, but that seems to be proving harder than I thought. I'll try and modify one of these ones that is close and show what my setup is currently wired at and maybe that might be enough for someone to see a problem.
TylerDurden
100 GW
Might be a Curtis...
Found this page:
http://server1.buggiesunlimited.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=15749
Found this page:
http://server1.buggiesunlimited.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=15749
Jay64
100 kW
I have to go over it in detail and check for sure, but I think this one is the closest to what I have so far.
Jay64
100 kW
What is an ITS sensor? Looks like it is part of the throttle. I was thinking that the cart had a potentiometer, is the ITS in place of that, or also with that?
TylerDurden
100 GW
Inductive throttle sensor
http://www.amazon.com/E-Z-GO-25854G01-Inductive-Throttle-Sensor/dp/B00699WZSQ
That diagram looks good.
Lotta places to have problems in that setup. I'd probe from the batteries forward, see where the juice is/is-not.
http://www.amazon.com/E-Z-GO-25854G01-Inductive-Throttle-Sensor/dp/B00699WZSQ
That diagram looks good.
Lotta places to have problems in that setup. I'd probe from the batteries forward, see where the juice is/is-not.
Jay64
100 kW
TD, that last link you put up actually had a critical piece of info in it. I can access the ITS box under the floor mat. I wouldn't have thought to look there without reading that. The box IS there, so that's good, but 1 of the 4 screws is spinning and not coming out. 
I've tried a few different ways to get it out, but nothing yet. Almost at the point where I might have to break that corner of the cover off.
Yeah, I tried tracing the power from the batteries. But the weird thing is that I was getting the 36v after the contactor no matter how I had the switches turned. I thought that if the switches were turned off, the power wouldn't be making its way through the contactor.
I've tried a few different ways to get it out, but nothing yet. Almost at the point where I might have to break that corner of the cover off.Yeah, I tried tracing the power from the batteries. But the weird thing is that I was getting the 36v after the contactor no matter how I had the switches turned. I thought that if the switches were turned off, the power wouldn't be making its way through the contactor.
Jay64
100 kW
Ok, I ended up getting the cover off. Doesn't look too good in there. Not sure what each part is called, so bear with me. First of all, there is a lot of rust on this one piece. It is some type of plunger that goes into the ITS piece. But it looks like the rusted part shouldn't have an effect on the sensor as that part doesn't go into the sensor at all. But the really bad part is that it appears to be slightly bent. When I press on the throttle, and it slides into the sensor, it pushes against the side of the sensor and actually pushes the sensor over to the side a bit. There are two bolts holding down the sensor, and one of them is missing the nut, and this allows it to move as the plunger goes into it. I'm not sure if having the plunger touch the sides of the ITS will cause the sensor to not work, or if this would just eventually cause some wear and tear. I looked up prices for a new ITS, about $160. I couldn't find a replacement plunger anywhere.
Jay64
100 kW
Oh, yeah, one more thing. The small switch on the side of the plunger, with the red and the green wires going into it, seems to be a newer piece. There is a little roller ball on it, and I found a similar roller in the bottom of the box. And given how clean this is compared to everything else in there, I figured it was replaced at some point not long ago.
Gordo
100 kW
The rust does not matter. The plunger goes into the coil and will vary the inductance. Pull the wires off and check the coil for continuity and short to the case?
Inductive sensors are pretty tolerant to abuse. The core rubbing on the side shouldn't hurt anything.
The roller switch is usually wired to the motor contactor to kill the output when the throttle is fully released. Sometimes called the pedal switch. This serves as a backup safety in the event the controller shorts out.
Those connections look pretty corroded. A good cleaning would help there.
The roller switch is usually wired to the motor contactor to kill the output when the throttle is fully released. Sometimes called the pedal switch. This serves as a backup safety in the event the controller shorts out.
Those connections look pretty corroded. A good cleaning would help there.
Jay64
100 kW
fechter, thanks for the input. Are you talking about the connections on the contactor?
I was looking at the connections inside the throttle box. If the rest of the car looks like that, taking apart every connection and cleaning would be a good start. A wire brush or even sand paper might be needed.Jay64 said:
Did you find a wiring diagram that seems to match?
Some motor porn I finished rebuilding the motor gord give me today! Yup I drilled it out hub motor style and added a cooling fan.
All right! Cart wars!
First one to the starting line wins.
First one to the starting line wins.
Jay64
100 kW
fechter said:
Wait a minute! I'm leaving today to go race at Daytona. We can't start a build contest right when I'm leaving for the start of my race season. :lol: And it looks like Arlo has quite a head start on me.
But seriously, I need to take off for Daytona for the races, then head down to Miami for testing, then turn around and take off for Colorado for more testing. I'll be studying up on this stuff in the mean time and probably asking questions to get the stuff figured out as much as possible, but I will only have a couple of days between now and next month to actually have hands on this thing.
Jay64
100 kW
fechter said:
Yes, I believe this is the correct one. Or at least it is the closest I have found if it isn't exactly 100% identical. So far it seems to pretty much cover everything that I have in the cart.
Good deal. That will help a lot.
One thing I've done in the past is to use a small DC motor for testing the controller. This prevents any major smoke/fire in the event of a bad part and you don't need to worry about the thing taking off on you. You can use a meter to check the integrity of the connections one at a time and work through the whole thing.
Well, good luck at the races!
One thing I've done in the past is to use a small DC motor for testing the controller. This prevents any major smoke/fire in the event of a bad part and you don't need to worry about the thing taking off on you. You can use a meter to check the integrity of the connections one at a time and work through the whole thing.
Well, good luck at the races!
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