e-beach
10 MW
"And just how big", one might ask, "are those Hall sensors that if one goes out your motor won't run?"
Well........
Well........
Halls effect sensors...the plague from hell
- Thread starter Warren
- Start date
e-beach
10 MW
Not to hijack the thread, but I replaced my hall sensor and the motor runs fine again. Took about 2 1/2 hours of work in all.
Talon
10 W
Did you replace all 3 sensors?
e-beach
10 MW
When I started opening the motor I had intended to replace all three, but I ended up only replacing one. This was my second time I had to replace Halls. On the first motor I did, when I opened it up, to my surprise the manufacture had built in three empty slots for just the purpose of Hall sensor replacement. So the last time I did all three. But this time there were no extra slots despite the motor being about the same vintage, the same voltage, from the same distributor. And the way the old halls are it is tricky work getting them out without messing up wires. It takes patients. So, a little Dremel tool work, a little hobby knife work, a drop of epoxy and some soldering and shrink tubing I got the bad one out and put a new one in. At that point I was tired of the process and just wanted to finish so I put it back together. Now I have to true the wheel......again. 
So now I have 9 extra on the shelf. I would probably sell 3 for $8.00 to a USA buyer. That way I could just mail them in an envelope. If anybody is interested PM me.
So now I have 9 extra on the shelf. I would probably sell 3 for $8.00 to a USA buyer. That way I could just mail them in an envelope. If anybody is interested PM me.
Yesterday was my first ride, of any length, since getting back from a Seattle area trip (It was impossible to avoid having a Prius in your field of vision, and more electric bikes and cars than I have seen in my whole life.)
Before heading out, I pulled the velcroed elastic sleeve off the chainstay. It is one from Grin Tech, and covers the mass of connectors between the handlebars, controller, and motor. I unplugged and replugged the JST-SM hall plug. The silicone dielectric grease seems to be preventing corrosion. I rearranged the bundle of plugs hoping to reduce any strain on the wires.
To deal with the extra length of the hall cable, I had originally folded it directly back over the braided motor cable sheath. In retrospect, that tight 180 degree bend may have created a future failure. Anyway, 40 miles into my 70 mile ride, the problem occurred again, but only for a second or two, so I may have located the problem. Good thing too, as it was 99 F and humid.
Before heading out, I pulled the velcroed elastic sleeve off the chainstay. It is one from Grin Tech, and covers the mass of connectors between the handlebars, controller, and motor. I unplugged and replugged the JST-SM hall plug. The silicone dielectric grease seems to be preventing corrosion. I rearranged the bundle of plugs hoping to reduce any strain on the wires.
To deal with the extra length of the hall cable, I had originally folded it directly back over the braided motor cable sheath. In retrospect, that tight 180 degree bend may have created a future failure. Anyway, 40 miles into my 70 mile ride, the problem occurred again, but only for a second or two, so I may have located the problem. Good thing too, as it was 99 F and humid.