Help a guy have fun again on a bike

[Chrisheuer]

:wink: Hi here you go I’m 65 6’3 295 lbs have road bikes all my life commuting touring recreationally etc . Have a mid 80’s steel lugged Nashbar mountain bike I want to electrify. Will be riding only on road and gravel in mid Missouri so some hills. I have some bike mechanic experience but not a pro. First don’t want to kill myself so 20-25 max on speed . Have maybe 1500 max for motor and battery.
So have researched the options I’m thinking 48 volt 1000 watt front or rear hub. ????? Do I want peddle assist ? Do I want or need suspension front fork? Direct drive?? I’ve changed the geometry of the bike with new bars and seat. I like the grin tech videos but what is a good us company to work with. I just want to do some leisurely cruising with moderate to light peddling. Help is appreciated thanks

 

[2old]

Take a look at ebikeling (purchased a 48V, 1200w front hub kit from them and it performs well). You should be able to procure a 1000w rear hub kit for $250. FME, a Lunacycle 52V 14 ah battery probably $600 or so with charger will complete the system. You wouldn't need a front suspension fork if you resided in socal since the streets are well-maintained, but may in your neck of the woods.

 

[Chrisheuer]

Hi thanks for the reply is that a geared or direct drive . I like your suggestion it sound simple and an easy way to get started thanks

 

[dogman dan]

Go with a rear hub motor, with internal planetary gears. A direct drive will be heavier than you'd like, and won't coast as nice as a geared hub motor.

500w rated motor in the larger 48v kits is typical, and 1000w will be plenty of power. Go with something like that from Grin, or you might consider E-bikekit. Disclaimer, I worked for EBK before I retired. Both companies are known for a good warranty, and backing that warranty up. Grin has the latest tech, but the EBK kit is a good solid kit with waterproof wiring connections, and still includes a very good display with rider customization for the settings. PAS is optional with those kits, but you get it if you want it.

You might though, want to get a new bike. Sturdy steel MTB's of decent brand make great e bikes for mixed gravel and paved riding. 26" wheel and wider tires than the old reliable you love. I often say don't ruin your favorite bike with a motor. Keep that one cherry. I would never consider putting weight onto my vintage steel centurion road bike. But my vintage steel mtb's sure. Something like a trek 820 or similar specialized or giant will ride fine, and often has front shocks. You are going to strap up to 30 pounds on that bike anyway, so forget about looking for a light bike. Look for sturdy, and 7 rear gears.

 

[AHicks]

I'm a pretty active (thanks to e-bikes among other things) 69 year old 6'2" 315lb rider.

I will share that if you have much in the way of hills in the area you ride most often, you want a geared rear hub, and as big a motor as you can find. I would not buy anything smaller that a 750w and make sure that 750w motor is rated for 80nm torque. Many are selling motors as small as 350w and calling them 750's....

And though it may not be a popular call here, I know there are over the counter bikes available that aren't going to cost a lot more than if you are building one. Say 1500 or so....

One of the differences, a U-build vs. over the counter, will be brakes. The over the counter bikes will all have disc brakes. That's a big deal when you mix a big guy with a heavy bike going down a big hill.......

 

[2old]

Hi thanks for the reply is that a geared or direct drive . I like your suggestion it sound simple and an easy way to get started thanks

The 1000w or 1200w (haven't looked at their site lately) will be DD, while they usually have a 350w geared system for about the same price. Didn't mention the geared system since its top speed about 20 mph. You might also look at a mid-drive (BBS02) which would have throttle and PAS, easy to convert and bulletproof FME. Your Nashbar frame should be a good candidate for conversion IMO.

 

[dogman dan]

Some how I missed it that your nasbar was an MTB.. Perfect bike. I was thinking you had a road bike when you mentioned the handlebar change.

Agree with above, you need a kit with 500w rated motor, which handles up to 1500w easy. They come in any standard 1000w kit from a reputable vendor. Do avoid the 350w motor, which looks obviously smaller diameter than the 500w geared motors.

I do think you will like a geared motor best. DD is heavier, and does not have as much of the same bike like feel when you coast.

 

[Chrisheuer]

Hey all thanks for the solid advice!! I’ve heard that pas can cause problems is going with throttle only get tiresome. I’m feeling very welcome on the forum And looking forward to my first build. Thanks

 

[99t4]

Some controllers, and CA I believe, support cruise control. There is a bit of a learning curve to using it safely, but it does wonders to alleviate "throttle wrist."

 

[dogman dan]

The better kits come with displays that allow the user to customize the rotation based PAS to be adjusted to the users liking. I was very very much against dumb pas, till I did some testing of the type sold by my former employer. their setting i hated, but after changing a few of the settings I got what I liked, a softer start after a full revolution. Throttle still there when you want that hard start. Dumb pas often gets set to give you too much power, too quick. No need to wheelie into a car because you moved the pedals while waiting at a light.

But I rode motorcycles so long, and still do. Throttles not a problem for me, and they allow what I consider the very best way to ride an e bike.

Select a speed you want to cruise, and the gear that goes with that speed. To start, throttle up till pedaling becomes comfortable, at the rpm you enjoy the best. Ride along continuously making tiny throttle adjustments to keep your cadence at the perfect rpm you love. If its dead flat, you can use a half throttle, and jam the grip against it like a cruise control. Uphill, or into the wind, the same perfect cadence at the perfect level of effort for your body. You'll ride twice as long at the perfect cadence.

In any case, I would advise you look for a better kit with a good display and a throttle and pas, even if you never install the PAS. You want that throttle to be there if needed, like a steep uphill start.

 

[LeftieBiker]

PAS is great (with throttle to start off) but people tend to use it in the wrong places: starting, stop and go riding, crowded streets. It is great to start off on a rural road or urban secondary road, get up to speed, and then engage the PAS. Anyone with any bicycle smarts can get a lot more out of the combination than out of just one or the other.