Help Please - Trying to decide on what type of motor.

[BiGH]

LiFePO4 or LiMn would be my batteries of choice, however they don't seem to be easy to source in AUS. You pretty much have to go to an overseas vendor and have them shipped out = RISK.

Thats the main reason i haven't done it yet. I haven't found any verified good cells assides from EV-Tech, so i'm waiting it out atm. (i want higher aH raitings than they are offering)

 

[WindriderAU]

Crystalite 408 36 or 48V motor (Front Hub). Also noticed that he carries a dual speed motor, that might be interesting. Can't seem to find out how many Watts these motors are. Anyone know?

36V batteries seems easier to come by, but would prefer 48V for range and performance. Speed increase does not seem to be that much more according to http://www.ebike.biz/Crystalyte_408_Hub_Motor.htm

Not sure as to what size (Amp) controller would be better (not really sure why it makes a difference).

 

[BiGH]

can i ask why you went for a front hub motor (over rear)?

(i'm just curious)

Haydon.

 

[WindriderAU]

Chose the front hub to keep my options open to changing rear to Shimano Nexus, but not totally convinced about that for this bike.

Also was concerned about all that extra weight on the back of the bike, wanted to distribute the weight across the bike.

Understand the weight on the front might be an issue in the wet.

Benefit of being on the back though tends to keep the bike a bit more inconspicuous. So might still go that way.

Do you guys find having a rear hub with batteries, etc and the weight being an issue?

 

[BiGH]

since i don't have my controllers yet, i haven't ridden it with batteries and power.

But i can say the motor on the back - not really an issue for weight. You might find that you want to have the batteries mounted in the frame though. I intend on going to LiPo batteries, so the weight added by the batteries won't be as bad as the SLA i've got on now.
you could put a duffle bag between the headset and teh seat post like one member here has done.

edit the extra weight of the hub motor just means you don't ride as fast, i don't really notice the difference hub motor to none EXCEPT in terms of speed up hills. Downhill - isn't noticeable, up hill yes a little, but not as bad as i would expect.

 

[dom]

Hi WR
I was using my 408 on the front on my first bike - a bit like driving a car without power steering at first -but you do get used to it.

Depending on what type of batteries you get -you may not want a higher amperage controller.
I have both a 72V20A and 72V40A - but the 40A one was too much for my underrated batteries. Plus the 40A controller is enormous compared to the 20A

The dual speed motor is a good choice as well -i run one of those at the moment -though in a BBDrive configuration.And the controller for that has proven bulletproof.

Considering you are looking at 48V and a front hub -the 20A would be a better choice.
I don't think you would be happy with 36V - i certainly got no joy from it (using C'Lyte motors)

I have broken a few racks from heavy batteries -as have alot of other people i'm sure.

The Amp rating on the controllers means that you can pump more current (power) into the motor -this can be very hard or deadly on batteries not suited for higher current draw.

The batteries you buy should state their maximum amp draw. If you want to be able to draw more amps with low rated batteries -you have to parallel the batteries.

That's one of the main reasons i run 100V - for a 1000 watt of power -i only need 10A of current. Whereas at 48V for the same power -you would need 20A +

The continuous rating on my batteries is 10A current draw.

PS Xyster -that kevlar belt you use.Does it make your tyre bumpy where it joins inside?
It looks like very good stuff -and 2 years is a great record for no punctures!
Cheers
Dom

 

[WindriderAU]

Hi Dom,

Thanks for the advice.

Ok, more to learn. I have seen other people talk about BB, BB Drive etc, before. What does BB mean?

 

[Ypedal]

Bottom Bracket. = conecting a motor with a chain to your front chainring/pedal sproket.

This means the motor can be in X rpm with different wheel speeds.

 

[xyster]

PS Xyster -that kevlar belt you use.Does it make your tyre bumpy where it joins inside?

Hi Dom. Thought maybe you got lost on a long ride through the outback....
No bumpies from the kevlar belt. I cut the overlap off using good scissors. Typical, dull scissors won't cut the kevlar. My nice Fiskar scissors barely do. Tough tires + kevlar belt + DH racing tubes or those 5X thickness Slime tubes make for as close to a bulletproof tire as you can get, short of an airless tire.

 

[dom]

Hey Xyster - was kidnapped by a bunyip :lol:

Just been doing other things -took up all my time.This forum looks to be going great.
Remember KnightMB offering to host way back when V was first in trouble -good that it's working out.

I have some material in my wheels - but it is fairly thick and i have to grind the overlap so i don't get bumpys. Nothing worse than a puncture with hard to get off wheels.

Cheers
Dom

 

[xyster]

Hey Xyster - was kidnapped by a bunyip :lol:
....

Cheers
Dom

One of these? Hope you're not pregnant now....like in Aliens.

 

[dom]

LOL -THAT'S the culprit