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How long would a Cheap ebay/amazon 48v 1000watt kit handle a 60volt LiFePO4 battery?

FranBunnyFFXII

FranBunnyFFXII

10 mW
Joined
Aug 14, 2019
Messages
31
BEFORE ANYONE SAYS TO GET NEW PARTS, I already have them on the way, it's just taking time to ship thanks to ongoing human malware issues.

I have a 60volt 40amp controller, and new 60/72volt LCD twist throttle on the way.

So this stuff is gonna take a while to get here. I have a 40volt 15amp LiFePO4 in the bike right now, and it works fine, it's just slow.

I got my 60v 20ah battery today, and I've got it all soldered up and ready to be put into a battery box and mounted to the frame.

I am bored, and am wondering just how long it'd take for a 60volt battery to kill a cheap 9c hub motor clone controller thats rated for 48volts 26amps.

This kid, has a basically identical kit, and is running 66.6volt LiPoly for his bike and It doesnt seem to have blown up yet. At least as far as he's posted.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npBMG2yPcUU

He did an update for the bike 11 months later and it's still running.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLyI4f7sdXc
As far as I can tell he's not upgraded the electronics.

I bought this kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075L77QLQ/
 
Open your controller look inside and see if you have a 75 volt caps or 63 volt caps . If 63v don't charge your battery over 62volts. Do you have a multimeter or volt meter ?
 
999zip999 said:
Open your controller look inside and see if you have a 75 volt caps or 63 volt caps . If 63v don't charge your battery over 62volts. Do you have a multimeter or volt meter ?
Click to expand...

Neither.
what would I be looking for in the caps to see how high they're rated for?
 
Caps have several markings on them - F-capacity, V-voltage, temperature, and model number. You look for the Voltage marking.
 
It wont die. 60v should be fine for that amperage, given the abuse people have put those things through here. You should get alot of miles.
 
Your battery is 72v at full charge, so its a good bit over the 63v cap you likely have in the 48v controller.

But if it don't pop the second you plug in, it will go awhile. Me? I'd want to ride now, and I'd stick to the old battery till your controller gets here.
 
The caps are marked .plus you need a multi meter just to start playing with it. You always need to check polarity and I don't mean the red and black wire I mean check the polarity of the wires a must on all Chinese goods
 
dogman dan said:
Your battery is 72v at full charge, so its a good bit over the 63v cap you likely have in the 48v controller.

But if it don't pop the second you plug in, it will go awhile. Me? I'd want to ride now, and I'd stick to the old battery till your controller gets here.
Click to expand...

LiFePO4 is a little bit different in its output voltage. it stays pretty close to 3.3/3.2voltage output per cell for most of the discharge cycle, which is going to be about 66volts output. It's still above the 63volts, but Life has a very flat discharge curve.
 
The motor is not at risk because of a battery. The controller may not be ready to take the voltage, as previous answers said. It is the controller that is feeding the motor, and must be matching the battery voltage, and Amp draw.
Motors are not voltage specific. It will run faster at higher voltage, slower at lower voltage.
 
FranBunnyFFXII said:
BEFORE ANYONE SAYS TO GET NEW PARTS, I already have them on the way, it's just taking time to ship thanks to ongoing human malware issues.

I have a 60volt 40amp controller, and new 60/72volt LCD twist throttle on the way.

So this stuff is gonna take a while to get here. I have a 40volt 15amp LiFePO4 in the bike right now, and it works fine, it's just slow.

I got my 60v 20ah battery today, and I've got it all soldered up and ready to be put into a battery box and mounted to the frame.

I am bored, and am wondering just how long it'd take for a 60volt battery to kill a cheap 9c hub motor clone controller thats rated for 48volts 26amps.

This kid, has a basically identical kit, and is running 66.6volt LiPoly for his bike and It doesnt seem to have blown up yet. At least as far as he's posted.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npBMG2yPcUU

He did an update for the bike 11 months later and it's still running.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLyI4f7sdXc
As far as I can tell he's not upgraded the electronics.

I bought this kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075L77QLQ/
Click to expand...
Do you have a 40v battery or is it a 36v charged to 40 volt. Is the 60 volt battery 60 volt charged or is it 52 volt 16 cell pack before charged? If it's a 16 cell pack it should run all day long, as long as the caps are 63 or higher.

Dan
 
MadRhino said:
The motor is not at risk because of a battery. The controller may not be ready to take the voltage, as previous answers said. It is the controller that is feeding the motor, and must be matching the battery voltage, and Amp draw.
Motors are not voltage specific. It will run faster at higher voltage, slower at lower voltage.
Click to expand...
I am aware of this. That is why im asking about the Controller specifically.
 
Then: the controller won’t be killed by your battery. The worst that could happen is blown capacitors if they are not rated high enough voltage. Capacitors are cheap and easy to replace. I would replace them with 100v rated right away, like all my controllers have.

Motors can kill a controller, or more often, defective motors. Shorted phase, bad connectors, worn out wiring insulation... as a result of accidents, or stupid mistakes.
 
MadRhino said:
Then: the controller won’t be killed by your battery. The worst that could happen is blown capacitors if they are not rated high enough voltage. Capacitors are cheap and easy to replace. I would replace them with 100v rated right away, like all my controllers have.

Motors can kill a controller, or more often, defective motors. Shorted phase, bad connectors, worn out wiring insulation... as a result of accidents, or stupid mistakes.
Click to expand...

Not to be rude, but did you miss the part where I said I already have parts on the way to replace this stuff? I'm not gonna replace caps in a controller when I got a new controller on the way.

I'm just wondering if the controller I have can handle this battery until the new parts get here.
 
If you won’t replace capacitors anyway, why bother. Just try it and you will see. :D
 
You got a crystal clear answer to that question. Maybe. :D

Try it and see, if you don't mind being stationary if the thing goes pop in the first 5 min. Id rate it at least 50% it might work fine, for years even. That a definite, crystal clear,,, maybe.
 
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