How to wire a Shark Battery to a BBS02?

[Impunity9]

Hi All,
I've been lurking here for quite some time and finally made the plunge and ordered a BBS02 and 48V 13.5 ah Shark battery from LunaCycle. I'm totally new to this and have no experience with soldering or anything like that. In fact I'm not handy at all but Youtube is a wonderful thing!
I just finished installing my BBS02 and battery to the bike, the only thing left is figuring out how to connect the battery to the motor using the provided connectors. I thought since I ordered them together from Luna it would be as simple as plug and go but it doesn't seem that way.
I've taken some pictures of the connector on the motor and the XT90 connector on the battery, the battery also came with another XT90 connector and what I belive is a cable for jump starting the battery.
Any help would be appreciated, my goal is to get this connected with as little loose wiring as possible. Do I need to order a heat gun and crimper or something like that, or perhaps a soldering kit?

This is connector coming from BBs02: http://imgur.com/9QCHiHh

This is the Xt90 connector coming from Shark Mount: http://imgur.com/vYFF8HC

Here's a pic of the accessories the battery came with http://imgur.com/HNRyRBF

Any help would be great!
thanks

 

[millzy555]

Just cut/ solder the XT90 lead/ plug you have. Just match the positive and negative wires to the battery. Simple job if you have the tools (no skill needed, i managed to do it). Remember to shrink wrap the wires

 

[Hwy89]

The larger red/black wires with the yellow XT90 go on the controller red/black cables in place of the white connectors. If you don't have the tools and experience to solder you could put the wires together with crimp on butt splices from the auto parts store. The smaller red/black pair with the black molded plug I believe are intended to be spliced to the charger output.
First thing get yourself a digital multimeter and learn to use it to measure DC voltage and polarity. Check and double check the polarity on every thing before you plug them together. Never assume that red will be positive and black will be negative. The results of being wrong are frightening.

 

[Impunity9]

Just cut/ solder the XT90 lead/ plug you have. Just match the positive and negative wires to the battery. Simple job if you have the tools (no skill needed, i managed to do it). Remember to shrink wrap the wires

ok thanks, I'll run out tonight and grab a cheap solder kit.

Any ideas on what I can cover the yellow XT90 connectors with to weather proof it and make it a little less visible?

 

[Ykick]

Any ideas on what I can cover the yellow XT90 connectors with to weather proof it and make it a little less visible?

XT's stick tight together. For color just spray paint.

 

[Impunity9]

So here's where I'm confused, I get that I could use the existing XT90 connector coming from the battery and use a butt splice on the wiring coming from the motor to connect to the XT90 pigtail. My issue is that all the cabling is way too long and will be messy.

Going off of this video : https://youtu.be/DK_VHxYjDRk?t=18m29s it looks like it would be much neater to just snip all the cabling short and use butt splices to merge them all without the XT90's

Is there advantages and disadvantages to just doing it the way he did in the video?

thanks

 

[Jon NCal]

Yes it's perfectly fine to cut the wires down and solder them together without a XT90, since you have a cradle-mounted battery that can be removed if needed. The crimp connectors that the video uses would probably be okay, but could possibly come apart whereas a good solder joint would not.

 

[OptimusPrime]

I think you should use the XT90S. The S designation on that connector indicates that it has an anti spark resistor incorporated in its construction, this is very important. Without it, every time you mount the battery to the bike the battery connection will spark. Over time this will destroy the contacts, beyond that, that sparking can and will sometimes trip the BMS and you will have to "jump start" it with that other barrel connector you were sent. This could be a royal pain if it were to happen out the the field away from the charger. So always separate the XT90S before you mount the battery, then plug it back in. You can still shorten the cable lengths, just use the connector. Also, crimping is not inferior to soldering. As former Air Force, I can tell you that if it must not come apart, a properly crimped connection was always specified for aircraft and hardware like missiles, etc.

 

[Jon NCal]

I think you should use the XT90S. The S designation on that connector indicates that it has an anti spark resistor incorporated in its construction, this is very important. Without it, every time you mount the battery to the bike the battery connection will spark. Over time this will destroy the contacts, beyond that, that sparking can and will sometimes trip the BMS and you will have to "jump start" it with that other barrel connector you were sent. This could be a royal pain if it were to happen out the the field away from the charger. So always separate the XT90S before you mount the battery, then plug it back in. You can still shorten the cable lengths, just use the connector. Also, crimping is not inferior to soldering. As former Air Force, I can tell you that if it must not come apart, a properly crimped connection was always specified for aircraft and hardware like missiles, etc.

Did you watch the video? Would you call that a proper crimp? For a proper crimp you need to match the connector to the wire gauge closely and use a strong crimping tool ( which is usually expensive).

 

[DAND214]

With my experience with LINAs batteries, you will need the XT-90s that come on the battery. I tried to change to Power Poles and found that the spark tripped the BMS, no matter how I tried. I had to put the Spark XT-90 in line. Not sure about your battery but There is a reason for the connector and the matching connector. Shorten all you want but use the connectors.

Dan

 

[OptimusPrime]

I think you should use the XT90S. The S designation on that connector indicates that it has an anti spark resistor incorporated in its construction, this is very important. Without it, every time you mount the battery to the bike the battery connection will spark. Over time this will destroy the contacts, beyond that, that sparking can and will sometimes trip the BMS and you will have to "jump start" it with that other barrel connector you were sent. This could be a royal pain if it were to happen out the the field away from the charger. So always separate the XT90S before you mount the battery, then plug it back in. You can still shorten the cable lengths, just use the connector. Also, crimping is not inferior to soldering. As former Air Force, I can tell you that if it must not come apart, a properly crimped connection was always specified for aircraft and hardware like missiles, etc.

Did you watch the video? Would you call that a proper crimp? For a proper crimp you need to match the connector to the wire gauge closely and use a strong crimping tool ( which is usually expensive).

I don't see how a Youtube video of someone screwing up a crimp changes anything. I stand by my original statement, a proper crimp is not inferior to solder.

 

[Impunity9]

thanks for all the info guys, I'll definitely leave the XT90s on, just ordered a solder kit and supplies, looking forward to having this thing done soon so I can start commuting to work!

 

[Impunity9]

Finished the bike! the soldering ended up being much easier then I though it would be, thanks for all the info guys.


Here's a pic of the finished bike:http://imgur.com/8k1WzaU

 

[spinningmagnets]

I wrote this to help with this common issue:

https://www.electricbike.com/matching-connectors-from-battery-to-controller/