Hub motor cover (cable side) doesn't squeeze into place

rg12

100 kW
Joined
Jul 26, 2014
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1,591
Hey Dudes,

Just got a 1000w hub motor shipped to me in two separate boxes (rotor in one box and covers in the other).

The side of the rotor that has the cable stick out of the axle needs to go into the bearing hole in the left cover,
only the problem is that it doesn't fit in the hole along with the axle!
I flattened the cable on the flat part of the axle and even greased the su**** so it will slide easily but it doesn't fit
in the bearing hole! it's too damn tight (that's what she said) and I almost damaged the cable's insulation.

Am I missing something? I hope you guys show me the kind of solution that goes like "you idiot, first put the xxxx
and only then put the xxxx"


Roy
 
Can you upload pictures?

Perhaps one of the bearings is slightly larger than the other, inside diameter, and has to use that cover for the wire side?

If it's the wire itself that is sticking up out of the slot for them, and preventing cover installation, then you might either need smaller wires or thinner insulation, or a larger-ID bearing and a shim between it and the axle.


If this is an upgraded-phase-wire motor perhaps too large an insulation was used, and it didn't fit, and that's why the person taht sent it did not assemble it before shipping to you? Some details on the whole thing would help figure out the best solution.
 
Is the stater centered and not touching the magnets when you try to install the cover? Everything has to centered to fit.

+1 on checking the baring sizes on each side.

+1 on the pictures. Just keep the file size at 640 x 480 so you can post them here. (VGA)

:D
 
- The cable wasn't upgraded.
- The seller sent in two different packages by my request.
- I have 4 of these, all with the same problem.
- Am waiting for the seller (manufacturer) to reply about this.
- Measured bearings on both sides 15mm exactly.

Attached a photo, just tried again with grease while pushing the cover with one hand and pulling the wire with the other, got it 1.5cm on the shaft (which is pretty good) but then noticed that the insulation was being stretched and pushed to the inner side, so I stopped in order to prevent it from cutting.
 

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The pic helps a ton.

You won't have a nut on the axle right at that point where the threads start, so dremel grind a bit more room there.

Your wire fits the axle channel, but it's having trouble getting on because the channel stops a hair too soon to slip under the bearing.

Why, oh why, do they persist in using that size bearing. 2mm more space would make such a huge difference.
 
Grinding is my last option but right now seems the only one...
How do they close the bastard in the factory without grinding 0.5mm off the flat part of the axle?
 
in the picture i think i see that the cable goes through the axel at a angle. maybe you can fit the bearing on the axel without the cable. after the bearing is on the axel fit the wire.

hope this helps
 
Manny said:
in the picture i think i see that the cable goes through the axel at a angle. maybe you can fit the bearing on the axel without the cable. after the bearing is on the axel fit the wire.

hope this helps

Just tried, seems logical to insert the cable only when the bearing is past the flat point and over the hole that the cable come out of but it's impossible since the hole is pretty small and the cable needs to bend and take twice the size before it gets pulled from the other side to be flat with the axle.
Bottom line, I will wait for the manufacturer to reply and if he doesn't give me the solution of how they do this in the factory then I will have to grind 4 damn axles...

Thanks alot,
Roy
 
When you say that when you push the wires through the insulation slides do you mean the black insulation around all of the individually insulated wires? If so then you could strip the outer insulation and use heat shrink tubing, its probably not as think as what's on there now.
 
You say the motors were shipped to you dissembled at your request,... Were these motors ever assembled in the first place and then taken apart, or were they just partially assembled and never fully assembled at the factory?

:D
 
t-tberg: I rather not do that as like you said, a heatshrink tube is much thinner.

e-beach: I think the motors were never assembled since it's from the factory but who knows.
even if it was never assembled, they make thousands of these, I'm sure that they didn't give me the "special extra thick cable" motor edition, it seems stock.
 
rg12 said:
t-teabag: I rather not do that as like you said, a heatshrink tube is much thinner.

e-bitch: I think the motors were never assembled since it's from the factory but who knows.
even if it was never assembled, they make thousands of these, I'm sure that they didn't give me the "special extra thick cable" motor edition, it seems stock.

It is truly bad form to insult those who are putting in time to help you sort thing out.
 
Hey man, sorry, that was sarcasm (apparently not a successful one), didn't mean to insult anyone and if it wasn't obvious, I appreciate all the help, so thanks again and sorry!
 
Apology accepted on my behalf.
I don't know if you tried this, but if not, is there any way to massage the wiring to flatten it out and make it all fit?

:D
 
e-beach: Thanks alot :) Thought about trying to flatten it with a pair of pliers and a metal bar against the flat part of the axle but I'm afraid to damage the wires because it needs a pretty rough "massage".

riba2233: Yup, they take out all the fun...reminds me of: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A1kq0eL-ly8
 
Still looks to me like the axle slot for the wire is machined a few mm short.
 
Can you temporarily push the wires back through the axle towards the stator such that their ends lie flat in the axle groove? This might allow you to slide the cover over the wire ends in the groove; then you can pull the wires back out when the cover is in place and past the grooves.
 
molybdenum said:
Can you temporarily push the wires back through the axle towards the stator such that their ends lie flat in the axle groove? This might allow you to slide the cover over the wire ends in the groove; then you can pull the wires back out when the cover is in place and past the grooves.

I tried that but it seemed glued or something, but that was when I first got it so I will try again harder when I get home tomorrow and see if it moves, that's a good idea though thanks :)
 
Ok, tried to move the cable inside the axle but like I first checked, it's glued.
Tried to flatten it with a metal plate and a pair of pliers against the flat part of the axle and managed to squeeze the thing pretty far in only to find out that I tore the insulation.
SO, I said the hell with it and got rid of the black insulation around the axle area since it was pretty thin and I can fix it with two heat shrinks on top of each other no problem.

So now I have a new problem...I managed to get the cover all the way to the point where it stopped and the bearing is like 0.000001mm from getting on the shaft.
No matter how hard I pushed the cover (tried both covers from both sides and also tried to reverse sides) it didn't wanna get on top of the shaft.
Do I need to bang on it with a soft hammer or should it just glide easily and I was screwed with parts that don't fit?


Roy
 
If I understand you second problem correctly the bearing is too tight to slide onto the axle, you may need to use a small torch and heat the inner race of the bearing until it expands very slightly, then quickly push it onto the shaft into position. I've rebuilt/rewound a lot of motors in my time and the bearings usually stay on the shaft not in the cover when removed.
 
rg12 said:
t-tberg: I rather not do that as like you said, a heatshrink tube is much thinner."
Isn't this exactly what you need? Heat shrink instead of the stock insulation would make for a thinner diameter wire. Carefully strip a 5 inch section or so and heatshink that sucka, trust me its what she likes, no need for lube it'll slide right in :wink:
 
I'm guilty of not reading the whole thread, instead of initially considering my advice of using heatshrink you forced it and potentially butchered your wires. Now with no insulation and heatshink it fits. Wow who would've guessed.. Pursing ES I've found people make upgraded wires fit using this method. Just because the insulation is thinner doesn't make it any less effective, if its tight and not chafing then it should hold up indefinitely. Also you might want to avoid the insults, like e-beach I'm not offended, you're going to alienate a lot of people like that, especially people you don't know who are kind enough to to help those with similar interests.
 
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