If you ever wondered "Will a Shinko 714 stay on the wheel after a tube blows?"

I discovered this beauty, but sadly out of stock in most sizes

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:mrgreen:
 
HK12K said:
You would be surprised at how stable it is at speed! I certainly was.

In stock-ish configuration, at low speeds, the handling was super sketchy. Once you got going it was better but still a bit too twitchy. Once I replaced the oem rigid fork with the moderately taller suspension one and stuck the slightly taller tire up front it increased the rake enough to make it quite stable indeed.

...when there are 2 tires attached to it anyway. :lol:

Holy moly that was terrifying. :confused:

I can imagine how you felt. :shock:
You obviously did improve the stability of this bike, but it is still very far from adequate geometry and balance that are making a bike suitable to deal with unpredictable obstacles or hazards at high speed. In emergency situations, this bike is a ´head or bitch’ chariot of destiny. :D
 
True. It's more cruiser than sport-bike, that is for certain.

Just a cruiser that happens to be running 18s lipo, 100 battery and 250 phase amps. :mrgreen:
 
Someone just posted this elsewhere and it seemed appropriate to share:
 

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I havent seen a double wall motorcycle rim before.
The only motorcycle rims I buy are cheap used wheels that I unlace to get the rim which have all been single wall and I throw away the motorcycle hub and spokes. I see you are using a 16" motorcycle tire on a 20" bicycle rim. Amazing a bicycle rim can hold up to that extra weight of tire, tube with all those stresses then added upon all that riding stresses.

40mph on a Giant Revive :shock: with a smooth tread tire, thats hopefully fairly grippy, good for road riding which you seem to do a lot of.

As for stand up scooters, they are back around here and blocking sidewalks as usual. Here theres another company, some orange eye sore that has helmets attached to them. I saw a kid on one trying to go up a tame hill and it was awfully slow. Not sure how much they cost to rent but I'd sooner drop $1k on triple the power, using my ebike battery as a backpack battery to save coin.
I just wonder what all those scooters batteries configurations are, 36V 10Ah?


but sourcing an off the shelf disc compatible 20" wheel is easier said than done.

HK12K said:
I'll have a really close look at the wheel whilst rewrapping it, but it's double wall so the spokes are a ways away from the tube... Unless there is something especially fucky going on. No rim clamp as this wheel doesn't have a provision for it. I see why they exist now though, lol.
 
They're regular bike rims. The front is the OE Revive wheel at the moment. The rear is a 4t leafmotor with Mavic rim. The Shinko's are heavier than bike tires for sure, but pretty light all considered. Just much thicker, puncture resistant, and DOT rated to 90-something mph.

Push comes to shove, I'm buying Pro Wheels rims, a new front hub, and begging Chalo to help me sort out the rest. :lol:

The Revive is 99.999% on road, with the occasional jaunt down crushed stone paths. The Shinko's are pretty good. I dig em. Grippy and quiet, without the buzz of knobbies, or the trials tires I have on the Raptor.

I will say, in the Revive's defense, it is not difficult to stand on the pedals when necessary, unlike most similar pedal forward recumbents. This is big when approaching potholes or other road maladies. That said, if you stand too upright the lever action of the long steerer can make handling a bit unpredictable, so best not to overdo it.
 
Motorcycle tires belong on motorcycle rims if you ask me. Even when the size is matching a bicycle rim, the bead seat profile isn’t and that is a major issue at speed or hard cornering.

Bicycle, motorcycles, and cars rims have each their own specific bead standard, and their tire beads profiles are made to be a perfect match.
 
Perhaps, but I can say with confidence the bicycle specific CST Vault street and Kenda MTB tire I've previously used on this bike were both much easier to mount and dismount by hand. The Kenda especially was a very loose fit. I seriously doubt that either of them would have fared any better under similar circumstances.
 
Yep, but most bicycle rims and tires have a bead hook, that is not the case with motorcycles.

You can see here that only the most recent tubeless specific bicycle rims and tires are beadless. And, they can’t be swapped.
ENVEHooklessRimsExplained2019-3.jpg


... While all motorcycle rims have a hookless bead.
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To achieve the best chances to keep the tire in the rim while riding on a flat, they need to have marching dimensions and bead profile. Then, to improve even further, a foam insert can be used to keep the bead pressed against the rim, even deflated. In most cases such foam inserts are letting you ride on flat tires.
s1600_CushCore_PRO.jpg


Motorcycle tires also have some foam inserts available, and it is also common to use bead locks for dirt bikes.
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Good info!

I was already leaning towards relacing this motor into a Pro Wheel rim, if just for the ability to run a wider tire out back. Going to have to look into that more closely, for sure. :thumb:
 
Maybe, but I've had poor results with slime in the past. Nothing like adding a pound of unsprung weight just to have it squirt out of a pinhole without so much as slowing the leak.
 
Got my replacement tubes. Somehow managed to order 12". Now I wait until Tuesday, at best. FML
 
markz said:
What no pictures of the injuries incurred, the dna donated?

HK12K said:

Could have been worse. Had I not kept it upright for as long as I did it would have been.
 

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