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Inside ecrazyman 48v 33amp brushed controller

Kurt

10 kW
Joined
Apr 21, 2008
Messages
962
Location
South Australia
Just some pics of the inside of this controller could be of use to some one.

I had it open to wire in amp/speed control wire from cycle analyst. it worked perfect. The photo was taken just before I blew up the controller by shorting it out on the frame of the bike :( it went up in flames. Good controller for the price though. The 33amp rating is a bit low it would pull more like 38amps before it would level off.
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kurt
 
Kurt said:
Just some pics of the inside of this controller could be of use to some one.

I had it open to wire in amp/speed control wire from cycle analyst. it worked perfect. The photo was taken just before I blew up the controller by shorting it out on the frame of the bike :( it went up in flames. ....


Thanks for posting.

I want a picture of the burnt one!
BTW, you could fix it.


Are (were?) Q1 though Q6 all the same?
I don't see any voltage regulator. Just a zener diode. Interesting.

Are there any numbers visible on the chip?
 
Can you show me where you added the CA speed control wiring? I have the same controller with a CA, but haven't done it yet.

Thanks!
 
I couldn't reuse it it went up in a big way as in all the fets jumped off the board onto the floor as red balls of steel and the board was literally on fire it was toast. It was like a small short started a very fast chain reaction. I had 4x18ah SLA battery's on it fresh off the charge at 53v.I was over the other side of the room trying to find my soldering iron when it append.The controler was naked but live so i could test it and it sliped off from where i had it propped up and the rest is history.

As for wiring the CA throttle control wire. Can you see R18 and R19 in the bottom left of the board ? You just run a single wire from the CA tTH pad then run that wire to the left side of both of these resistors. You must have a single diode inline on the wire allso to stop CA feeding voltage to the controller when it isn't activated.

I was kinda upset when killed the controller because the current limiting worked so well its very smooth and accurate. I only got to try it out in my basement for 5 mins :cry:

I am happy the CA didn't get damaged as the new throttle control wire wasn't connected when it shorted. The shunt was and the CA recorded just under 200amps and a voltage drop to 42v when it shorted out.That little ecrazyman controller didn't like 8400w :D

Kurt
 
you may want to ask keywin if he will take it back under warranty. i will buy one too if he does.

this is gonna be more than a fried guinea pig, think vietnamese pot bellied pig fried.
 
Should these controllers not be mounted directly to the frame?
 
Kurt said:
...
As for wiring the CA throttle control wire. Can you see R18 and R19 in the bottom left of the board ? You just run a single wire from the CA tTH pad then run that wire to the left side of both of these resistors. You must have a single diode inline on the wire allso to stop CA feeding voltage to the controller when it isn't activated.

...

So you mean I short R18 and R19 together on the left side, and attach the CA TH wire there? See my attached image for clarity...
 

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fechter said:
Yes, I definitely would like a picture of that.
+1, failed component pics FTW!

It's pretty rare for stuff on this forum to run an HCF instruction.
 
The burned controler had a very bad smell to it so it went into the trash.

I didn't have the controller directly mounted to the frame without the heatsink cover I that would be crazy.
I just had it open to modify it and when doing so it shorted out.

Yes R18 and R19 throttle control would only work when connected to both resistors you pointed to .I fount the simplest way to test it was to type in 1amp or 2amp as the limit and just throttle your bike up a little with the brake on as soon as you hit 1amp it would just level off and show exactly 50w draw from my battery.The CA is such a good product.

Kurt
 
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