is hot glue a good potting compound??

Whiplash

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Hey all, I finally found a compact cell phone charger that will run on my 12s lipo. I need to know if hot glue will be a decent potting compound just to hold the two PCB's that are just held with very thin wires together. I may try to mount it with the same but only as a secondary mounting solution, I will also form a support plate for it...



(Moderator edit: merged your multiple threads to the orignal thread. Please do not post the same question multiple times in mulitple places. Be patient and if anyone can help you they will reply to your original thread. )
 
ive used hot glue on many of my lower temp projects and it works grate anf i have not had a isue with it ... so i would say yes go for it bro
my homemade 12v voltage regulator is potted in hot glue and has been running fine on my bike rode year round for about 18 months now wothout any problem
 
Excellent thanks!
 
Hey all, I finally found a compact cell phone charger that will run on my 12s lipo. I need to know if hot glue will be a decent potting compound just to hold the two PCB's that are just held with very thin wires together. I may try to mount it with the same but only as a secondary mounting solution, I will also form a support plate for it...


(Moderator edit: merged your multiple threads to the orignal thread. Please do not post the same question multiple times in mulitple places. Be patient and if anyone can help you they will reply to your original thread. )
 
Hot glue melts in the sun here. I know from experience. I wouldn't trust it in direct sunlight or anywhere it gets over 100F.
 
this dose of course matter what hot glue you use and at what temp your circuit runs at
some hot glue melts at higher temperature then others

I use the highest temp glue I can find for my lower temp projects
pic of 1.5 year old glue potted circuit incomming
 
potted1.jpg
potted2.jpg
 
btw i pot hotter circuits in red automotive silicone (works awsome for hall sensors in hub motors)

i dont know about you guys but i like the option of getting back into my electronics later and for me a plastic epoxy just dosnt let me do that

this being said i like my controller poted internaly in a conformal spray (year round rider here and i had issues with watter on the coast here last winter :O) and then i seal the box in red rtf
 
I potted hundreds of connectors used on military aircraft F4, A7, F8 years ago when I was in the aircraft industry. Any rubberized silicone caulk like you can get at Walmart or Home Depot will work fine.
 
+1
A good permanent fix can be made by twisting two wires together and using a piece of drinking straw filled with silicone over the splice. Not the preferred method of twist and solder, but does work even around salt water.
wesnewell said:
I potted hundreds of connectors used on military aircraft F4, A7, F8 years ago when I was in the aircraft industry. Any rubberized silicone caulk like you can get at Walmart or Home Depot will work fine.
 
Cool, THX guys! I wondered if silicone would work...
 
I've used hot glue to sort of seal/support electrical stuff, like covering the back of circuit boards as an insulator and wire support. It works, sort of, but doesn't always seal that well (it tends to peel away from metal, in my experience) and as others have said it melts when it gets hot.

I've also used epoxy, but no longer use it. Many years ago I made an electronic ignition for a car, potted it in epoxy and it failed after a few months. Apart from the hassle of picking out the epoxy to try and repair it, I found that the failure had been caused by the epoxy. The stuff is too rigid, so when components heat up and cool down, so expanding and contracting, the epoxy holds them firm, resulting in cracks.

I now usually permanently pot stuff with two pack polyurethane. It remains slightly squidgy, so allows thermal expansion, and it seals things really well. If you use the clear stuff then you can see to pick it out if you need to make a repair, although it is pretty tough. You can get it in easy mix plastic bags here, where you just remove the separator bar and squeeze the two parts together to mix it, inside the sealed bag. You then just cut a corner off and pour.

I've also used silicone rubber, with mixed results. A lot of the silicone caulk in tubes gives off acetic acid as it cures, and this corrodes electrical connections (you can check this by smelling the stuff, if it smells of vinegar then that's acetic acid). It's disastrous when used on copper, as it serious eats the stuff away under the caulk There is a type of silicone caulk that cures by giving off alcohol, usually labelled as sanitary caulk here. This is fine with most electrical stuff, in my experience, and it tends to bond to most things better than the type that gives off acetic acid when curing. Again, if you smell it you can detect the slightly sweet smell of alcohol as it cures. Finally I once tried some two pack silicone intended for mould making for models. This seemed to work well, but is more of a mechanical fix than a waterproofing method, as it doesn't bond well to anything, unless a primer is used first. It is great if you need to repair something though, as it's the easiest stuff I've found to pick out without causing damage to components.
 
i'd suggest either plasti dip or liquid electrical tape. both will hold better than hot glue, both are easier to remove (short of sticking the peice in an oven). it tends to peal off in large sheets once its set.
 
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