I had also problem with this display and here is solution to fix it. You have to open display and find lm5576 which is step down converter from 12v to 5v. It was broken(didn't output 5v) You need to supply in 2,3,4pin (they are all together) 5v. Best is to by from ebay separate 12v to 5v converter 3A. and solder it to pin 2/3/4. I will upload pictures when i have time.
Leili controller+ TFT display
- Thread starter elik1111
- Start date
elik1111 said:Received a new TFT. Let's see if this one worksif not I, m going to get new controller that works with a phone or CA.
Check if you have 5v on pin on picture near r17 resistor. You chave to check next pin. Connect controller and battery so you can read voltage
Attachments
Can anyone help me with ideas of how to get the bike to turn on? I have the bike and am able to fully charge the battery. Once I plug the battery in I hear a loud alarm sound 2 times then nothing happens. I read and found that I am supposed to have two RFID keys which I never received when getting the bike. Is there a way for me to bypass needing those keys? I have contacted Leili but have not received word back from them.
You could replace the original controller and display with a generic one; you just have to figure out all the wiring for the new one vs what's already on the bike to get it all working.
However, then you lose the security feature of the keys, so that anyone can just come along and ride off with your bike.
(unless you make some other form of security).
Because the keys are part of a security system, then if you bought the bike directly from Leili they ougth to be able to help you.
If you didn't, then they may decline to do so simply because they can't know if you are the original owner or not. In that case, you'd have to contact the dealer you did buy it from to get those keys.
If you got it used, you may not have any options to get those keys other than the original owner.
However, then you lose the security feature of the keys, so that anyone can just come along and ride off with your bike.
(unless you make some other form of security).
Because the keys are part of a security system, then if you bought the bike directly from Leili they ougth to be able to help you.
If you didn't, then they may decline to do so simply because they can't know if you are the original owner or not. In that case, you'd have to contact the dealer you did buy it from to get those keys.
If you got it used, you may not have any options to get those keys other than the original owner.
I don't know--you'd have to try it and see.
You haven't received even one rfid? One is for driving and one for settings changing. I dont think you can make it start from controller. Display is having 5 speed mode, is able to turn on off pas, throttle etc. From what i remember from display come out 2 wires for data. Thats all. Easier way is to bypass rfid key on display. I dont have this display anymore so can't help you. If you have bought from ebay or aliexpress just claim and get it return.
I was able to find the RFID keys and the Alarm Key. I am able to confirm that pressing the lightning button 2 times on the alarm key turns the power to the bike on because I was able to test connections with a Volt Meter. My problem still is that the Display will not come on and when I pull the throttle nothing happens. Does the Display have to be on in order for the motor to turn the wheel?
If you look closely at the black box shaped part with NK and + on it, next to the D2 marking, you can see where it has fried inside and blown a hole in the surface on top, and probably blown the end out too, where soot has ended up on the parts and traces nearby.
Why it blew could be just the part itself, or something downstream of it.
You'd have to determine what the various parts should read with an ohmmeter / etc., and then test them to make sure they do. If they don't read correctly, you could replace them and see if it then works.
D2 itself is a diode of some type, but there are different kinds. Without knowing what it is, it may be possible to guess and get it right, but you may need to find out exactly which one it is to be sure of the system working correctly.
Why it blew could be just the part itself, or something downstream of it.
You'd have to determine what the various parts should read with an ohmmeter / etc., and then test them to make sure they do. If they don't read correctly, you could replace them and see if it then works.
D2 itself is a diode of some type, but there are different kinds. Without knowing what it is, it may be possible to guess and get it right, but you may need to find out exactly which one it is to be sure of the system working correctly.
Hi. Sorry for laye reply. Just pm me because i am not notified for new posts. Just measure first on cables red and black if you get 12v then go to dc-dc converter from your picture and hold one pin of multimeter on gnd(black cable- i belive its marked there as gnd) and other pin near c17 capacitor. Should read 5v. You can check all pins if you want. I think you will get readings from near c19 mark. There you have 12v
Cuprani
100 mW
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2019
- Messages
- 39
Really would like to get schematics or wiring info for the controller itself.
Does anyone have that info?
I recently found this schematic for a Leili controller, but this is not the same as mine.
I have this controller, or something that looks like it.
Would be very pleased if anyone could share the wiring diagram.
Really would like to know where my unused wires are for.
I'll hope mine has got a 25 km/h limiter as well (for legislation restrictions when necessary).
Does anyone have that info?
I recently found this schematic for a Leili controller, but this is not the same as mine.
I have this controller, or something that looks like it.
Would be very pleased if anyone could share the wiring diagram.
Really would like to know where my unused wires are for.
I'll hope mine has got a 25 km/h limiter as well (for legislation restrictions when necessary).
Cuprani
100 mW
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2019
- Messages
- 39
I'ts a Leili 72V 80A controller that looks like the one above.
For all the wires on the right side it speaks for itself.
- Motor
- Hall
- 72V input (on the XT90)
For the wires at the left side you can see 10 more connectors(from right to left)
1)(white connector): 72V output for 12V transformator
2)(red connector): ?
3)(red connector): ?
4)(black connector): ?
5)(black connector): display
6)(white connector return from display): ? There is one blue wire there that's is a return from the display but not connected.
7)(black connector):Brake switch
8)(black connector): PAS Sensor
9)(white connector): ?
10)(black connector): Throttle
For all the wires on the right side it speaks for itself.
- Motor
- Hall
- 72V input (on the XT90)
For the wires at the left side you can see 10 more connectors(from right to left)
1)(white connector): 72V output for 12V transformator
2)(red connector): ?
3)(red connector): ?
4)(black connector): ?
5)(black connector): display
6)(white connector return from display): ? There is one blue wire there that's is a return from the display but not connected.
7)(black connector):Brake switch
8)(black connector): PAS Sensor
9)(white connector): ?
10)(black connector): Throttle
Here is connectors information and about display
View attachment 1
View attachment TFT 850C User Manual-RisunMotor.pdf
View attachment 1
View attachment TFT 850C User Manual-RisunMotor.pdf
nike221984
1 µW
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2019
- Messages
- 1
Do you guys all have the new or old TFT displays, apparently there are new displays. I bought a new controller after getting good use out of my old one but then was told my display looked old from a picture. I originally dealt with Chris a couple of years ago and was told he left too, had I read this forum before buying I think I would have gone elsewhere. I will try to wire my "old" display and give an update, and if anyone has discovered a bypass for the displays altogether please don't be shy in letting us know.
So after reading this whole thread I learned a lot , mainly that the dude who took my mcqcon sabvonton , and replaced it with this cool upgraded screen really had my best interest no where near his objective lol . This thing is a hoopty , slow as my one legged grandma , and just as big ... am I missing somthing here because my 80a controller dose nothing diffrent between the "5 " cool sounding speeds , is there not a 3 speed switch to be utalized , and as far as the tft screen , all it really tells me is current voltage all the other information is always 0 . Iam no electril engineer so pardon the silly question. And part b , what specs should I shoot for to help my 220 lb body be able to power up steeper inclines with out over heating and depleting battery , iam on an enduro build I got scammed on with striped out hubs on a 3k watt qs hub drive motor with a 34 amp hour 84 volt battery, I believe is classified as a 72 v battery? With this 80a tft hoopty lilli controller , that even in the settings mode gives me really no ability to adjust and have saved after power down any settings ... some times this hobby really takes a toll on my mid sized brain . Thanks for any great recommendations or suggestions . And for taking the time to read my venting questions !!
FOC controller like sabvoton will give you less heat and for the same battery amp increase power specially on start. On high speed it doesnt metter if itc squere wave or sine wave. If you like to have nice display then you can use phone with planty apps that show speed distance etc. For battery and adjustments in controller can use sabvoton blutooth dongle. Connect via app can adjust power spped. throttle. Regen. It shows also battery status. Very usefull.
Is it possible to use the TFT from the l e i l i controller on the subvonton hundred amp it has the green plug that directly plugs into it just wondering if it's compatible because the old Lilly controller uses an RFID to turn on the controller and TFT I was wondering if the RFID switch was in the TFT or if it's part of the controller because if that were the case then it wouldn't work with the subvonton controller unless it had the same RFID inside of it I believe trying to hook it up with subvonton and not having luck thanks for reading
