LightningRods Smallblock kit at 3000W+ Review

oh, oke, didnt know that there was any changing in that part of the kit.

well, the 18T didnt fit my tensioner, i had to dremel out some material, but now it wits nice:



So it looked before, you can see where the 219 chain touches the Tensioner



i also added a mudguard, my kit was filled with 0,5kg of dry dirt when i changed the bent axle.

hope i did the right amount of decal-stickers on it, guess that will make it bit more torque... or was it angular momentum, im confused a bit ;)
 
Föppel said:
Hey Samer, nice bike man! I really like the shape of the v10
Did you get rid of the chainwheel-wobble?

i found a CA-manual in my native language, so i was able to get the throttle better, and finaly understand some setting-parameters better, but thanks for the offer.

then, last ride, my jackshaft axle bent. still the first badge, weak steel-axle...
before riding, i mentioned a change in belt tension (first time for about 500km without tooling/tensioning someting)... and i didnt set it properly before riding on 75v40amps... axle bent on the 219-side, where there is more force, shiat!

So i will upgrade this part soon, and maybe do some other changes to make the bike lighter.

Hey foppel

sounds good man , i end up taking out my CA from my v10 it works pretty much the same , less cables around , the bike locks better too,
the wobble went away after few rides
you must been going hard on your bike to bend the shaft :)
do you know that little plate that holds 2 bolts to tensioner the belt , my one start bend up , does your one ever bent?
it is soo tin
making up new brackets to remove that ugly rose claps that hold the motor, will build it with carbonfiber
 
Föppel said:
oh, oke, didnt know that there was any changing in that part of the kit.

well, the 18T didnt fit my tensioner, i had to dremel out some material, but now it wits nice:



So it looked before, you can see where the 219 chain touches the Tensioner



i also added a mudguard, my kit was filled with 0,5kg of dry dirt when i changed the bent axle.

hope i did the right amount of decal-stickers on it, guess that will make it bit more torque... or was it angular momentum, im confused a bit ;)


mud guard look sick man
which material did you use?
 
Samer said:
Föppel said:
Hey Samer, nice bike man! I really like the shape of the v10
Did you get rid of the chainwheel-wobble?

i found a CA-manual in my native language, so i was able to get the throttle better, and finaly understand some setting-parameters better, but thanks for the offer.

then, last ride, my jackshaft axle bent. still the first badge, weak steel-axle...
before riding, i mentioned a change in belt tension (first time for about 500km without tooling/tensioning someting)... and i didnt set it properly before riding on 75v40amps... axle bent on the 219-side, where there is more force, shiat!

So i will upgrade this part soon, and maybe do some other changes to make the bike lighter.

Hey foppel

sounds good man , i end up taking out my CA from my v10 it works pretty much the same , less cables around , the bike locks better too,
the wobble on freewheel went away after few rides
you must been going hard on your bike to bend the shaft :)
do you know that little plate that holds 2 bolts to tensioner the belt , my one start bend up , does your one ever bent?
it is soo tin
making up new brackets to remove that ugly rose claps that hold the motor, will build it with carbonfiber
 
hey boys, here some test and upgrades that im doing on the bike

first i try to put the battery on the frame , i end up damage my spine disc s5l1 big crash on speed flying, the pain is horrible , cant carry heavy weight on my backpacker any more very sad but recovering, did stemcell terapy to see is my disc can grow back :)
the battery on top is no good , affect alot of the balance of the bike

14339204_10154315538091609_1067187675_o.jpg

decided to try battery under the frame , it is much better balance look nice too, the only problem if i turn the front wheel all the way to left or right the suspencion touch the battey , gonna have to re-spot welder it

Untitled.jpg


up the mount close to home

14339438_10154315538311609_696864147_o.jpg

i add shimmano sprocket on the back 11-42 it is insane it can climb a tree, super torque doesn't head up the motor wen you go uphill
top speed on small sprocket is 60km
front sprocket using 44 tooth, i tried 32 tooth but it is no good , too much tork


[youtube]7Yk9IbU12ZE[/youtube]
 
Hey Samer, nice to here that the wobble is gone.
yes we had that bending of this plate too (the one, holding the adjustable screws, holding the jackshaft).
thats why i will end up welding the jackshaft in one position. will try 2 weld points per side, see if that hold.

About the Battery; i had the same "problem" with to much weight in the wrong pace with this Project:


It looks so cool, but riding it wasnt much fun. It feels really lazy in corners.
Cool that you could manage to mount the battery lower, i can guess the increase of comfort in the bikes behavier :)

Hope the best for your spine, and that the therapie works!
 
thanks foppel
massive reduction you have in the back wheel man :) are you gonna climb trees ?
motor on the middle of the frame look sick
did you try controller on top of motor and battery under the frame?
 
i had the controller on the downtube, and the Battery in the Backpack.
im not a big fan of frame-mounted Battery, but can understand why people do it.
i like my bikes as lightweight as possible. The LR-Kit bike (YT-TUES) i guess is around 25kg without the battery.
Next project is aimed to be around 20kg.

cheerio
 
What size of battery do you carry on your back? How heavy is it?

I can't stand backpack battery...mine have all been so heavy that they really mess up my lower back on anything that isn't silky-smooth road.
 
My 44,4 V, 27 Ah (=1200 Wh) pack weighs around 6,0 kg, too. In total my backpack (Deuter Attack 20) weighs around 10 kg, including water, some tools etc.. I don't have any problems with this load at all, even today when I rode 2:40 h on more or less rough singletrails. I would never think of fixing the battery on the frame because the bike would handle so much worse.
 
DingusMcGee said:
Slowco,

I have a 2009 Toyota Rav 4 with the 4cy at 179 hp. I could have got the car with the v-6 at 283 hp. These cars do hold up to the 283 hp as we see it does. The ratio is 1.58 but it seems more likely the Rav 4 would hold up to 358 hp better than the LR s-block does to 3000 watts.

Your argument makes no sense.. you just can't simplify some "facts" to fit your needs.
Toyota uses all kinds of torque management to manage the extra power of the V6.
It dynamically pulls power via the ECM to save the drivetrain and maintain traction.
Even though it has twice the power numbers, the performance doesn't reflect that
Due to "torque management"
Which makes your comparisons and post invalid.

Great post OP ! Looks like fun!
 
some days ago, i finished the installation of the 15mm Axle.
I was very accurate to set the new Jackshaft, measured everything with the vernier caliper several times, screw up the setscrews, measured aigain and again...

then, welded the jackshaft-setrings (?) to the sheets, so nothing can move.



...tightened the lockrings quite hard, then made 2 weldpoints per side.
i did this because i dont want to change my gearing anymore, also i think it will be good if i decide to go higher in Power.



LightningRods said:
One of the reasons that mid drives are so much more interesting to me than hub motors is that there is a lot to play with. Multiple speeds, higher or lower gearing, combining pedal and motor power, running them parallel, all of this makes it possible to make a mid drive what you want it to be.
Yeah, thats what i like the most! All the stuff i was trying with the kit so far, wouldnt be possible on an other "platform". Also if you messed up with your gearing calculation, you can order an other sprocket and everything is fine ;)

lucky accident, i just focused on setting the Jackshaft right, so the Beltside runs nice.
i have a chaintensioner for the 219 Chain, so i didnt care about a lacking 219 chain...



219 Chain is nice tensioned, will see if the tensioner is wasted weight now.
Also should be easy to see if something moves, 219 chaintension will tell...


some days ago, first testride, everything runs smooth.

i started to run at 2,5kw, bashed her hard on the trails, did a lot of hillclimbes, everything holds up nice, so next ride i will be around 3.2 kw again.

On the last ride, we was riding my LR-Bike and the LMX, both on more or less comparable speedlevel, it was much fun to get up that hills

you cant really compare the two bikes, there are so many diferences, but clearly, the LMX is much more controllable at higher speeds in ruff terrain. The LR-Bike on the other side is much lighter, and more playful to ride, do to weight and closer wheelbase.

After i get told that wd40 isnt good for the 219 Chain, i try foliage now, but still mix it with a little bit of WD40
 
Hey boys bearing fail, havent bee using my bike much probably it's has done around 250km
maybe fopel you could let me know if you have seen this problem before
removed damage bearing, press new bearing in , it whent down maybe 10 mm inside the housing tube, the alloy tube the hold the bearing has a deeper groove on it.
it is no good
here some photo
 

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Howlermonkey said:
Toyota's way of dealing with the excessive torque of the 2gr v6 engine in the rav4 was to stop offering it.

Of course, we do have some running around with 400 or more horsepower.

LOL u r right.

a simple solution
 
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