Lightweight efficiency oriented BikeE conversion

I had to look up what a Maxarya Ray-2 was, and :D $ :shock:

At least something like this is still being built! Any thoughts on front suspension?
 
Yeah.. the prices are quoted in the Canadian Buckaroo(tm) though, which isn't mentioned on their site..

A shipped price, taxes and all, From Ontario, CA to Utah, USA comes out to $1823.74.. the price is still painful.. but i really want the spiritual successor of this bike.

Fitting a 20" front suspension fork ( i have one lying around! ) might actually be possible on the maxarya due to where the bottom bracket is relative to the headtube. But i'd be fine with a fixed 20", as it's a big upgrade from the bikeE's 16".. and this bike in particular is not meant to be a speed demon.. that's what the cannondale is for :)
 
thundercamel said:
Oh, so the cannondale is still a better frame for speed than the Maxarya is? What's the differences between the two?

Honestly, i don't know if it will replace the cannondale or just the bikeE. More likely the bikeE.

I'll do a video showing the differences of all 3 when i get it and update it in the maxarya thread.
 
While i'm waiting for my maxarya, i've been riding the bikeE quite a bit.

After experiencing the usual 1 flat tube per ride, i decided to cave and install a prefilled slime tire on the rear.
I would say that the effect on rolling resistance is about as bad as a motorcycle tire, and the added 1-2lbs of mass puts it in motorcycle tire territory.

Nary have i had a rear flat, but i'm not really happy with it. I'd rather just run MC tires.

My front tire begin experiencing frequent flats and i installed a slime filled tube up front and this seems to have ended the front flats.

Overall i'd rather run MC tires on both sides because more heavy rubber is better than heavy sealant, and also the 16" front wheel is not confidence inspiring on high speed turns when flying down a canyon at 35mph, as i'm apt to do.

I will be throwing my bikeE up on ebay once i have the maxarya and cannondale up and running.
 
Having ridden on tires with slimed tubes, if the rolling resistance is comparable to an MC tire, then the MC tires you've tried must not be all that bad regarding rolling resistance. I used to use 20x2" Maxxis Hookworms up front with thorn-resistant tubes and slime on my first trike build, a Thunderbolt. I could top out at 26 mph on flat ground and cruise at about 15 mph, pedaling it, and that's also considering that the flex in the front of the frame was causing the tie rods to adjust the toe-in every 30 miles or so to a point where it became noticeably more difficult to pedal and would require re-adjustment. There was also no body shell on it before my legs caused the front of the frame to shear itself apart.

I never once had a front flat on that setup though.

I'm currently running 20x1.5" Schwalbe Marathon Greenguards with thin tubes and no slime on the front wheels of my KMX-based velomobile, and it's a lot easier to pedal. The Marathon Greenguards, with narrow tubes without slime, tend to get a flat once every 4,000-5,000 miles or so(about the end of their life in my usage case, when the smartguard layer starts to show through the cracks), and I ride at car-like speeds on roads littered with potholes, debris, broken glass, nails, ect. However, when I first put that trike together, I used the same Maxxis Hookworms I was using on the Thunderbolt since they still had some tread left, and it was noticeably faster than the Thunderbolt, cruising speed of about 17 mph and top speed of 28 mph, without the suspension or the body shell. I didn't get to try the Marathon Greenguard until long after I installed the suspension and made the first body shell, although I did get to try the Greenguard with the trike still suspended with the first shell removed, and it was about 1 mph faster cruising and 1 mph faster top speed than unsuspended with the Hookworms. But the suspension adds significant weight and air drag, and my level of fitness may have also been more conducive to riding faster.

Wish I knew what the Crr values for those MC tires you have were! Supposedly, the Schwalbe Marathon Greenguards inflated to 100 psi are about 0.005(See: https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/tour-reviews/schwalbe-marathon-2015). I'd like an MC tire rated for highway speeds that was < 0.009, though most are around 0.015-0.02+.
 
Well when i say MC tires i'm referring to the hutchinson spherus which is basically a thick bike tire with a harder motorcycle compound to carry high amounts of weight. I also have a Mitas MC2, used by solar racing teams, which has higher rolling resistance for sure.

Shearing apart a trike front end with pedal is pretty impressive, although if you're referring to a KMX thunderbolt... well, KMX trikes do not seem study overall.. knowing that many ES members have destroyed the frames.. bummer.

My average time to a flat tire with a 'puncture proof tire' is about 10 miles here in Utah on various schwalbes versus your 5,000 miles.. i am pretty jealous.. and honestly i hate the extra drag because it really eats away at the advantage of the semi recumbent.. although there's no way in hell

Yeah it would be nice to have CRR values on moto tires. I notice that difference in rolling resistance is very easy to 'feel' between tires. If you wanted to get kinda scientific, i imagine a bike trainer plus hubmotor would give you some friction values in watts that would be useful.
 
neptronix said:
Well when i say MC tires i'm referring to the hutchinson spherus which is basically a thick bike tire with a harder motorcycle compound to carry high amounts of weight. I also have a Mitas MC2, used by solar racing teams, which has higher rolling resistance for sure.

The Mitas MC2 is the one I'm really interested in!

Shearing apart a trike front end with pedal is pretty impressive, although if you're referring to a KMX thunderbolt... well, KMX trikes do not seem study overall.. knowing that many ES members have destroyed the frames.. bummer.

It's just called a Thunderbolt, from Hellbent Cycles. Sets of plans to build them used to be sold in the 1990s. Chalo used to know Rick Horowitz, one of the designers. I thought it was a KMX at first, before and just after buying it, but it was something heavier and nowhere near as sturdy as a KMX. I bought it for $500 from a man from rural Texas who built it, and restored it(with some help from a bike shop and paying them for the share of the work they did). It was slightly cheaper than buying a used trike at the time. It lasted about 1 year, but in its defense, it was also repaired twice, after one of my roommates was thrown on it during a brawl when 6 people tried to break into our apartment also destroying a mold/plug and some fiberglass I was working on at the time and also run over by a truck while parked at a restaurant, so the frame was put through quite a lot. After the truck ran it over, it was never right again after that, even though I still put thousands of miles on it after it was mangled up and bent back into place as best as I could manage. Were it not for that, it is likely I'd never have bought the KMX and would have eventually built a velomobile off of it. Since it had indirect steering, making a velo off of it would have been a lot easier than the KMX, and with its narrow 32" track and with me seated in it a 31" height, it probably would have been a lot more aerodynamically efficient(my KMX has direct steering, a 39" track and with me sitting in it is 38" tall with the seat as reclined as possible).

My average time to a flat tire with a 'puncture proof tire' is about 10 miles here in Utah on various schwalbes versus your 5,000 miles.. i am pretty jealous.. and honestly i hate the extra drag because it really eats away at the advantage of the semi recumbent.. although there's no way in hell

I don't have to deal with goatheads. That's probably why. The roads where I am at are crap. For comparison, I'd get about 2,000 miles out of a set of Schwalbe Trykers.

The aero advantage of a semi-recumbent isn't huge, so a little bit of rolling resistance difference can mean the difference between reaping the aero gains and not. Now, if you were to go to a full-on enclosed streamliner, OTOH... with LRR bicycle tires, aero drag and rolling drag might be equal at around 30 mph, whereas moto rims/tires might bring that break even point up into the 40 mph range.

Yeah it would be nice to have CRR values on moto tires. I notice that difference in rolling resistance is very easy to 'feel' between tires. If you wanted to get kinda scientific, i imagine a bike trainer plus hubmotor would give you some friction values in watts that would be useful.

If I had the room to set something like this up, I'd do it. If I had a trainer to donate to you for that purpose, I would...

At some point, I'm eventually going to try them. My curiosity and desire to have a "bulletproof" solution for eventually cruising at highway speeds has gotten the best of me and it's just a matter of getting the cash together to have some 16" light-weight motorcycle wheels built up around a spare set of KMX hubs I purchased earlier in the year, and also getting the cash together to purchase a set of Mitas MC2s to go with them, plus an upgrade to hydraulic brakes. All of that will come after I convert it to electric and have the bugs worked out, which fortunately, I'm sitting on all the required parts other than some connectors to make my battery pack work with my controller. And when I do get around to using these tires, I will have to find a flat area, take some mass data, and do some coast down testing from low speeds in effort to try to derive some ballpark Crr numbers. I will have to account for the rear tire as well and derive a Crr number for it that is constant between the two equations, and obtain weight distribution data so that I can account for the rear tire's influence.

I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with the maxarya. Recumbents are so much more comfortable than normal upright bikes. You will probably end up using it for nearly all of your riding once it's built up, and may very likely increase the amount of riding you do because it is such a pleasure instead of a chore.
 
Nah, i have the maxarya arriving tomorrow and do not have space for 3 recumbent bikes.

I'm going to chuck the Bike E on eBay for $300 an see what happens. As of writing there are, surprisingly, no bike E's for sale on eBay so i'm thinking i won't have too hard a time selling it.
 
It's only a matter of time before you try a suspended trike or velomobile. When you do, you'll like it enough that you will most probably accept the compromises using it on your roads entails and your other bikes will collect both dust and rust.
 
The Toecutter said:
It's only a matter of time before you try a suspended trike or velomobile. When you do, you'll like it enough that you will most probably accept the compromises using it on your roads entails and your other bikes will collect both dust and rust.

You're goddamn right. :mrgreen:

Honestly i thought the bikeE would have been a good upright velo frame.. but.. the wheelbase was simply too short and i find the bike skittish when carving corners at >25mph and unstable beyond 35mph. It's a standard size and i am 6 foot tall which is the upper limit of that size.. so..

Whereas the Cannondale was like riding a Porsche and i could not ever get it to feel uncertain around hairpin turns at ~40mph.

A velomobile needs to be able to handle.

Admittedly it's small size makes it a good pedal bike but with the maxarya ray 2 coming in at the same weight and having folding capabilities it's absolutely my choice for something lightweight to chuck into the trunk and go joyriding on vacation.. :bigthumb:
 
by The Toecutter » Nov 29 2020 10:39pm
KMX has direct steering, a 39" track and with me sitting in it is 38" tall with the seat as reclined as possible).

Just wondering how you are getting the 38" tall is it from ground to the top of head rest, head or shoulder. I don't know so i'm asking?

I see most riding a recumbent sitting straight up with feet forward. I ride a recumbent to not compress my lower back and spread the pressure along the back up to the shoulders. the center of my crank is above my hips but below my heart. Don't want to heart to pump blood up to my feet.

by neptronix » Nov 30 2020 2:55pm

Nah, i have the maxarya arriving tomorrow and do not have space for 3 recumbent bikes.

I'm going to chuck the Bike E on eBay for $300 an see what happens. As of writing there are, surprisingly, no bike E's for sale on eBay so i'm thinking i won't have too hard a time selling it.

First reading $300 was surprised sounds cheap but i'm not a good judge of price.
 
neptronix said:
Honestly i thought the bikeE would have been a good upright velo frame.. but.. the wheelbase was simply too short and i find the bike skittish when carving corners at >25mph and unstable beyond 35mph. It's a standard size and i am 6 foot tall which is the upper limit of that size.. so..

The BikeE would not fare all that well with a faring... Crosswinds would topple it over with ease!

Whereas the Cannondale was like riding a Porsche and i could not ever get it to feel uncertain around hairpin turns at ~40mph.

Behold, the Amish Porsche!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5iN465xZ7w

The Cannondale might do okay with a faring on it, but to make a faring fit you will need to change the handlebars to a tiller setup like that found on the M5 lowracer.

You will have enough recumbents that it will justify experimenting in this manner with at least one of them. The forums at recumbents.com and bentrideronline.com are both excellent resources should you decide to try building a faring for it.

A velomobile needs to be able to handle.

Most velomobiles tip over at around 0.5g lateral acceleration. Mine can corner at 0.7g without going up on two wheels. The difference is that while mine has a center of gravity slightly higher than the sportier velomobiles by 3-4 inches, it has an extra 8-12" of front track and a similar wheelbase, which helps to keep the center of gravity from shifting out of the triangle drawn with each wheel's axle's position in a hard turn. 0.7g is okay by car and SUV standards, but it's not a Mazda Miata or Lotus Elise by any stretch of the imagination, while 0.5g is worse than most SUVs.

ZeroEm said:
Just wondering how you are getting the 38" tall is it from ground to the top of head rest, head or shoulder. I don't know so i'm asking?

That measurement is from the ground to the top of my helmet with myself seated in it.
 
I love the amish porsche.

No surprise your trike handles so well with such wide wheels. Too bad a wide bike is no good for my kind of conditions or i'd consider one and ditch the two wheel stuff.


Anyway, this build is officially shelved. The Maxaraya has two good options for mid driving, and has great options for front and rear hub drive. It's also built around a lot of standard bicycle components. It's a much better light recumbent.

You can follow that thread here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=109173
 
Back
Top