mon-goose to MON-STER

half twist with regen?

My throttle is half twist and have regen and it works easily. I feel after riding more with regen it sinks into deeper level of subconscious.

I ride my elshito tank and go looking for it,

or

I drive my car and look for my regen when braking.

the half twist with green regen button from ebikes.ca is cool.

Big note: I had to peal back the wiring covers to run the regen to controller and throttle to ca.
 
John Bozi said:
half twist with regen?

My throttle is half twist and have regen and it works easily. I feel after riding more with regen it sinks into deeper level of subconscious.

I ride my elshito tank and go looking for it,

or

I drive my car and look for my regen when braking.

the half twist with green regen button from ebikes.ca is cool.

Big note: I had to peal back the wiring covers to run the regen to controller and throttle to ca.
Click to expand...
hu?.. cool. thanks for that man. im inspired. ive had regen before but thats got me thinking i should really get on it. i have hard core clamping torque arms on both bikes and ability for regen. ill order new throtles soon.
 
so ive been using the balance parallel cables to charge my pack.
2 x bc168 with a pair of 10ah packs being charged through balance cables. the cheap parallel cables i found arent really soldered... the wires are pressed into the pins and heat shrunk to hold. so ok for just basic parallel conection but not for charging.

I put a heat sink on the the parallel board where the wires conect and were getting hot. now they get warm but not hot.
IMG_20140601_170113.jpg
IMG_20140601_171056.jpg
 
pendragon8000 said:
so ive been using the balance parallel cables to charge my pack.
2 x bc168 with a pair of 10ah packs being charged through balance cables. the cheap parallel cables i found arent really soldered... the wires are pressed into the pins and heat shrunk to hold. so ok for just basic parallel conection but not for charging.

I put a heat sink on the the parallel board where the wires conect and were getting hot. now they get warm but not hot.
View attachment 1
Click to expand...

I was having the same issue with balancing 12S with balance leads paralleled to 3 6s 5000mAh packs, Turning down the BC186 from 8Ah to 5Ah for charging solved this problem. If your balance leads are still getting a little warmer than you like, try that.

Rick
 
Yeah Rix I've tried that. My issue is also long charging times mean there's more chance I'll be paying less attention if something goes wrong.
I should really invest in a 100v 900watt bulk charger.
I have a 75v 1200watt charger for the Scott spark, its nice to charge up in an hour or less. The 1200watt is a bit big for a backpack though.
 
John Bozi said:
what's the name of the spray you used inside the hub and where did you get it?

I got my spokes and will start building (should I say pulling apart) next week.
Click to expand...
file.php

is what i used back on page 4. but its not heat proof. still works though ( just makes a funky smell for the first moth or so when it gets hot) . its SO dry down in adelaide that i might get away with not coating it but up in the tropics you'll def's need to coat it. I'd recomend some high temp engine enamel from a car parts shop like sprint auto or super cheap auto . black will emmit heat radiation more to.
http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Dupli-Color-Engine-Enamel-Gloss-Black-340g/324060
324060.jpg
 
This is the third time? or second?

what a pain,

To be honest though, watching your video where you were doing the skate bowl jumps I was amazed every landing that you weren't breaking it.
If you calculate your weight plus ebike x dropping height x amount of times done it becomes kind of an unsurprising result.

At least you know where and how to fix it now...

:(
 
John Bozi said:
This is the third time? or second?

what a pain,

To be honest though, watching your video where you were doing the skate bowl jumps I was amazed every landing that you weren't breaking it.
If you calculate your weight plus ebike x dropping height x amount of times done it becomes kind of an unsurprising result.

At least you know where and how to fix it now...

:(
Click to expand...
Yep, time for him to contact Tench and finally get an axle that isn't Chinese ultra-low-grade crap :)
 
trevc2 said:
John Bozi said:
This is the third time? or second?

what a pain,

To be honest though, watching your video where you were doing the skate bowl jumps I was amazed every landing that you weren't breaking it.
If you calculate your weight plus ebike x dropping height x amount of times done it becomes kind of an unsurprising result.

At least you know where and how to fix it now...

:(
Click to expand...
Yep, time for him to contact Tench and finally get an axle that isn't Chinese ultra-low-grade crap :)
Click to expand...


Both my Fighter's 4080 and the Bombers 5403/5404/5405 have the 162mm axles. Does Tench make 162mm axles for the 40xx and 54xx, if so, I am buying one of each..

Rick
 
cool Rix

he will make to order in whatever detail you want.

those axles you want should be easy for him as he has made a few already.

will you get larger phase channel/bearings to boot?
 

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PMed Tench
I'm keen to get the axle sorted out asap. Scott spark is working but running sensor less so I might sort thatout while iI wait for the axle.

I thought I should mention a puff of smoke came from the motor when I realized something was wrong, it had unplugged hall wires so I plugged it back in then twist throttle - smoke ...great.
I tested the controller and no FETs are switched high or low so I'm hoping the phase wires shorted for a millisecond and I can replace them.

Speaking of phase wires why the hell did I put the plugs on the chain stay!? I'mgoing to move them closer to the controller under the bottom bracket. Oh yeah and no phases were shorted to the axle either so tthat's good. I'll pull it apartsoon for further inspection. I guess iI could spin it in a vice to make sure all is well electrically .
 
ridethelightning said:
cool Rix

he will make to order in whatever detail you want.

those axles you want should be easy for him as he has made a few already.

will you get larger phase channel/bearings to boot?
Click to expand...


Not for certain yet,I may go for a slightly bigger phase channel for the 4080, but not for the 54xx. For sure they will be beveled and smooth. The 5404 11G (4mm teflon phase wires) can handle huge amounts of power and not even get warm. I asked Allex what his phase wires felt like running north of 8KW with the Max E, he reported the wires weren't even that warm. As far as larger bearings go, I am going to run high quality Axis units, comparable to SKF, they are over kill for these motors as it is, probably wont go bigger, but it wouldn't take much to turn the covers on a lathe to run bearings with a few mm larger race. Now that I think about it, got options. As Pend pointed out, no splines, whats the deal with that? Do they just press fit in and lock by tight clearance pressure?

Rick
 
sadly its worse than i thought.

i broke the axle and then the gear side torque arm wasnt enough and the axle spun in the drop out at this time i asume the smoke from the shorted phase wires happened.

btw the torque arm was reasonably tight. done with 5mm bolt and tightened up with a flat head, maby it moved a bit in the torque arm and became more loose after the brake side snaped.

so with the upgraded axle both of these things wouldnt have happened, it wouldnt have broken and even if it was only held by one torque arm it wouldnt have spun being 14mm wide instead of 12.3 (stock i just mesured with digital caliper) thats 1mm per side stopping it spinning, not much.

so now i have to rewire the motor and im still not sure if the controllers ok.
IMG_20140608_125944.jpg
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IMG_20140608_130401.jpg
:cry: crying in my beer right now.. nah not that bad just kinda sux hey.
 
i mesured the gear side torque arm clamping axle part and it should have been just over 10mm not clamped assumably. but it was a little bigger (11mm) .
so for now im blaming my riding style and stupid amounts of torque having most of its power transmited through the weakest part of the axle and then it breaks, instead of both sides taking the load. preferably if one side more than the other, it would be the gear side with no wire channel making it weak... however it was primarily going through the weaker side. i have replaced the flat head 5mm bolts with allen key bolts than i can tighten up suficently IMO to hold the axle. i had them sitting there for months and didnt bother using them. i definately should have.

now im wondering if i should use a normal axle seeing as i think i found the fault of my last 2 breaking. well if Tench doesnt reply ill get a normal one i guess. im so keen for the over sized fat axle though.
 
For some reason Ken, I though you were clamping the axle on both sides. That's will solve the problem for sure.
 
Rix said:
ridethelightning said:
cool Rix

he will make to order in whatever detail you want.

those axles you want should be easy for him as he has made a few already.

will you get larger phase channel/bearings to boot?
Click to expand...


Not for certain yet,I may go for a slightly bigger phase channel for the 4080, but not for the 54xx. For sure they will be beveled and smooth. The 5404 11G (4mm teflon phase wires) can handle huge amounts of power and not even get warm. I asked Allex what his phase wires felt like running north of 8KW with the Max E, he reported the wires weren't even that warm. As far as larger bearings go, I am going to run high quality Axis units, comparable to SKF, they are over kill for these motors as it is, probably wont go bigger, but it wouldn't take much to turn the covers on a lathe to run bearings with a few mm larger race. Now that I think about it, got options. As Pend pointed out, no splines, whats the deal with that? Do they just press fit in and lock by tight clearance pressure?

Rick
Click to expand...

Actually I have swapped my stock wires with 10AWG turnigy wires.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=23996&hilit=sensor&start=7250#p872051
And did not have to modify the axle at all. I thought that I might as well swap them when installing temp sensor inside. I can pull >10kW all day long with them. Dr. Bass uses same wires on his 20kW watercooled 5403 without problems. But yeah stock Teflon 11g wires on 54xx are prolly good for 8kW.

BTW: Dr. Bass mentioned, if you crack your axles often, this means that you overtight it, at least when using his torque arms. And also if you have a bit of play in the arm it will snap right off! Can't find the post now...
 
Damn Allex, thanks for correcting me, I totally forgot that you did that. Now I remember you replaced the phase wires with red 10g turnigy units. As far as breaking axles, I know axle lash from the axles counter rotating under acceleration will break stuff easily, and I could see how just isolating one side would break and axle with a high powered unit, but how would the axles break from over tightening if both ends had torque arms and the axle lash eliminated? With the reduced thread contact on the axle from the flats being cut, I can't even torque down the axle nuts to max specs anyways since the reduced thread contact will strip long before reaching max foot pounds. What am I missing? :?: Don't worry about referencing the article, just what you can remember. More learning curve stuff for me. :mrgreen:
 
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