monkmartinez
1 mW
A friend of mine gave me this bike about 11 months ago. The forks were beyond repairable and the rear shock's "brain" was no longer functioning. The rear shock was replaced with an air shock with a travel of 165mm (extra 15mm). I replaced the front fork with a 120mm 29'er air fork. Thus earning the moniker "69'er" as its 29 up front and 26 out back... I suppose 96'er would be more accurate, but 69'er sounds fun.
I removed the front derailleur and rode the sucker until I fell, cracked two ribs and had moderate concussion. At that point I moved back to my Cannondale SuperX for strictly commuting/fitness. I work 23 miles from door to door, but I am there for 24 hours at a time. Still, this ride was a bit much for my actual functioning at work.
Well, I have decided to give this bike a new lease on life... plus I am "value oriented" (wife calls it cheap). I came into a way to get lots of 18650 cells for next to nothing except my time, they are used of course. Right now I am sitting on just over 200 usable cells, although I know they are at the very least genuine.
I have 3d printed modular battery packs in 2s4p pairs. (pic shows 2s3p while testing)
I have printed 6 in total giving me a 12s4p overall.
My battery math for the cells I have works out like this:
Looking at that math, I am tempted to reprint in a 12s5p or even going 6/7p configuration to get more capacity. The problem is the frame and mounting options. There is no triangle to mount a more typical case. I have been looking at mounting options like a madman, and have few ideas, maybe you fine folks will have a few more?
I could use the lower water bosses, and a traditional Hailong case. BUT, I would really like to keep the pack modular as I can maintain the battery (as in replace individual cells) much easier with this design. With the cells being used, I am going to need to pay special attention to them while charging and how they are behaving while discharging.
Furthermore, I have still not made a decision on what type of motor to run. I really like the idea of less maintenance in the direct drive world. As I said, I will need to monitor my battery more than most, so any reduced maintenance would be welcome. My commute is super flat like 500 total feet in 23 miles along my "river path" that is generally bone dry 90% of the year.
Initial thought is to just slap an ebay 48v 1000w kit on the thing and get the watts out!
For charging, I am going to use a Riden rd6006 coupled to a 60v 8a meanwell power supply.
Any input would be greatly appreciated!
I removed the front derailleur and rode the sucker until I fell, cracked two ribs and had moderate concussion. At that point I moved back to my Cannondale SuperX for strictly commuting/fitness. I work 23 miles from door to door, but I am there for 24 hours at a time. Still, this ride was a bit much for my actual functioning at work.
Well, I have decided to give this bike a new lease on life... plus I am "value oriented" (wife calls it cheap). I came into a way to get lots of 18650 cells for next to nothing except my time, they are used of course. Right now I am sitting on just over 200 usable cells, although I know they are at the very least genuine.
I have 3d printed modular battery packs in 2s4p pairs. (pic shows 2s3p while testing)
I have printed 6 in total giving me a 12s4p overall.
My battery math for the cells I have works out like this:
- 12s*4p*3.6v*5A = 864 watts
- 12s*4p*2.6mAh*3.6 nominal volts = 449.2 watt hours (total energy)
- 4p*2.3mAh = 9.2 amp hours (capacity)
- Amps at motors = 864 watts / 12s*3.6v = 20 amps @ motor (864/43.2)
Looking at that math, I am tempted to reprint in a 12s5p or even going 6/7p configuration to get more capacity. The problem is the frame and mounting options. There is no triangle to mount a more typical case. I have been looking at mounting options like a madman, and have few ideas, maybe you fine folks will have a few more?
I could use the lower water bosses, and a traditional Hailong case. BUT, I would really like to keep the pack modular as I can maintain the battery (as in replace individual cells) much easier with this design. With the cells being used, I am going to need to pay special attention to them while charging and how they are behaving while discharging.
Furthermore, I have still not made a decision on what type of motor to run. I really like the idea of less maintenance in the direct drive world. As I said, I will need to monitor my battery more than most, so any reduced maintenance would be welcome. My commute is super flat like 500 total feet in 23 miles along my "river path" that is generally bone dry 90% of the year.
Initial thought is to just slap an ebay 48v 1000w kit on the thing and get the watts out!
For charging, I am going to use a Riden rd6006 coupled to a 60v 8a meanwell power supply.
Any input would be greatly appreciated!