Muxus 3,000 v3 3t or Qs 3,000 v3 3t

999zip999

999zip999

100 TW
Joined
Jan 10, 2010
Messages
11,846
Location
Dana Point So. Cal
That's it.
I had a muxus 3,000 5t that melted. I now have a muxus v3 4t and love it runs great a little heavy. The qs is heavier and big for bike Tim as I use old style chromoly mtb frames thud buster and front shock
Also I just bought a cyc pro middrive 3,000watt with BT asi 885 BT is to loud and to hard to program. Nightmare.
So I'm thinking muxus and my 18 fet powervolicty controller.
 
The mxus is over rated. If the qs 3000w is a 3000w, then the mxus 3000w is more like 2400w
 
The 18 fet Powervelocity controller is nowhere close to feed enough to take full advantage of a QS205h50v3, or any other 50mm stator for what matters. Even the 45mm stators like the Muxxus, can be fed much more current than this controller is able to.
 
999zip999 said:
I do have one on my muxus v3 4t but not hooked up. The muxus v3 3t would need one with 18fet P.V. @ 80amps 80v..
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A 3 turn motor has less need of a temp sensor than it's 4 turn counterpart, because the 3t can handle proportionately higher current due to shorter thicker copper, so it makes less heat at the same current levels.
 
Despite the greater weight, the QS would be better at slow climbs up sandy beach trails, because the QS is 11% more motor. Note that if you go with the MXUS you'd make the same heat any time you're making the same torque. Slow climbs are the hardest thing for our systems, so to avoid yet another burned up motor include thermal cutback in your setup. If you really want to build a bulletproof system this time, then figure out how to make a smaller wheel work for you.
 
I'm tired of all the weight I have been lugging around.
I had to put the spare motor an edge 35mm stator and it lungs up a hill the muxus goes up ez. I bet the qs would smoke it. Weight. Plus a heavier rim and tire as 19in or smaller moped setup. Or heavier.
 
I agree that you need either a smaller wheel or climbing faster. I climb very fast most of the time. When I can’t avoid a technical trail I prefer risking a crash climbing too fast for the terrain, than risking my motor doing it slow.
 
Time to go to the lawnmower and mopped repair store and look at rims and tires I can't go to Frankenstein as I need to ride in So Cal no some jungle road. I have miles of rattlesnake roads. But need the street to get there.
 
That is why I ride all bicycle components. Tires are not lasting long, but that is the cost of light weight performance. My bicycle rims are reliable, but wheels are carefully built for the purpose.
 
999zip999 said:
I'm tired of all the weight I have been lugging around.
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You need to figure out that mid-drive. Otherwise you gotta do like MadRhino and spend the bucks to get all lightweight bike parts, get the strong DH frames, and tune and maintain them properly.

Why is weight that big a problem? Do your wheels leave the ground with jumps or by picking it up. I appreciate a cyclist wanting light weight, but batteries, hubmotors, and controllers add tremendous weight if you want range and performance.
 
John in CR said:
999zip999 said:
I'm tired of all the weight I have been lugging around.
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You need to figure out that mid-drive. Otherwise you gotta do like MadRhino and spend the bucks to get all lightweight bike parts, get the strong DH frames, and tune and maintain them properly.

Why is weight that big a problem? Do your wheels leave the ground with jumps or by picking it up. I appreciate a cyclist wanting light weight, but batteries, hubmotors, and controllers add tremendous weight if you want range and performance.
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Yep. With a powerful mid drive, you dont have to care about the weight anymore. Well, not as much at least. For sport riding, it is wonderful to have a powerful bike that is half your own weight. When it is your game you don’t really care about the cost. But, for transportation and/or long range you can manage with much more weight and still have fun.
 
MadRhino said:
Yep. With a powerful mid drive, you dont have to care about the weight anymore. Well, not as much at least. For sport riding, it is wonderful to have a powerful bike that is half your own weight. When it is your game you don’t really care about the cost. But, for transportation and/or long range you can manage with much more weight and still have fun.
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So far mine have been 100% street riding, so unless I take a leisurely cruise through curvy mountain roads where I generally need to stretch my battery, my fun is restricted to straight line accelerations. It's great now that over the past 2 years well over 90% of the roads in the metropolitan area received a fresh layer of properly steam rolled asphalt, so even the smallest wheels are a non-issue for ride comfort. WRT to weight, other than its detrimental effect on acceleration, it has little effect but it's placement has a tremendous effect on feel and handling. That makes battery battery placement of critical importance, especially the multi-kwh packs I use now.

My latest ebike construction is my first attempt at something for the trails, so it's a mid-drive with bike suspension with a HubMonster geared down to the equivalent of a 13" OD wheel, but with 21" moto wheels (27"+ OD). Once I get happy with the steel version, then I'll do a monocoque version using innegra/carbon cloth and a 5-6kg lighter MiniMonster rewound to a Kv of 30-40rpm/v to handle whatever a single Nucular 24F can deliver. If the suspension holds up reasonably well on the steel version, then even with a 21s52ah pack I should be able bring in the composite version in below 70kg, and a lot lower by breaking the wallet out wrt to the wheels. At that point I'll take advantage of safe parking at one my friends' houses who live in the mountains near trail heads, and build a trailer to tow the bike using one of my other bikes, so I don't have carry so much battery to waste a lot of the capacity just getting to the fun riding as well as bring an extra swappable pack for double the ride time.
 
999zip999 said:
21s52ah
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Well he rocks some good power with that hub of his.
4kwh with probably 25R's so 21P @ 20A or 25A (whatever 25R is) so 525A possible for battery, but its whatever Nucular 24F can handle which states:
Maximum power: 20.000w
Nominal power: 10.000w
Voltage range: 20-90V
Phase, max: 500A
Battery, max: ~300A

Thats an expensive controller, $1,000 but well worth the dimes. Couldnt imagine the torque monster the hubbie spits out.
https://www.surronshop.com/stranica-tovara/nucular-24f-controller-kit
 
https://youtu.be/PSk5tOzzjnI

Big fan of the qs205 range hubs myself bud.This was v1 build from and actual downhill bike.All depends on what you will use it for tbh.
 
Marks I I think he's using leaf automotive modules ripped up torn down and put back together again. And then he needs two controllers because he has a 6 phase motor. how in the hell are they going to let me go down the street with that Frankenstein monster looking thing and Newport Beach with my girlfriend on the back and then we'll have to wear helmets. And still get pulled over. Hey did life for physics really run your electric bike into the ocean on low tide get stuck with the new girlfriend on the rear. JohnCR ? Oh shit I talk to you much.
 
999 - 21s pack of Chevy Volt v2.0 module (52ah)
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=108000&p=1579718&hilit=battery+module#p1579718
- "The top speed on flat road with the battery at 80V was 87kph"
- "and I haven't even pegged the throttle quickly or tuned the pair of Nucular 12Fs beyond the factory settings for acceleration other than phase and battery current. Though I made mounting holes for them, I didn't think I'd need to use my pair of 24Fs on this build due to the low gearing, and I was right."


999zip999 said:
Marks I I think he's using leaf automotive modules ripped up torn down and put back together again. And then he needs two controllers because he has a 6 phase motor. how in the hell are they going to let me go down the street with that Frankenstein monster looking thing and Newport Beach with my girlfriend on the back and then we'll have to wear helmets. And still get pulled over. Hey did life for physics really run your electric bike into the ocean on low tide get stuck with the new girlfriend on the rear. JohnCR ? Oh shit I talk to you much.
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999zip999 said:
JohnCR how many kilowatts of battery do you have and is it all stored in a bunker ?
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I don't know...never added it up, but about 50kwh not yet in service. They're all in the shipping crates they came in with all balance tap harnesses and power mains removed. I check everything for balance and proper storage voltage upon arrival, and spray the crates with something to prevent the termite-like creatures so common here from getting into the wood. Anything under a roof is in a temperature controlled environment, so I just have to keep them dry and keep fire away and they're quite safe.

I just made another donation of RC Lipo to the Fire Department for understanding and practice. I hate worrying about those fire blocks, so the last of what I have is on my son's ebike, a Phazor frame, so they're in a steel box and no risk to anything more than the bike itself, since we park it in a ventilated area away from anything flammable as I do all my bikes.
 
999zip999 said:
Marks I I think he's using leaf automotive modules ripped up torn down and put back together again.
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Leaf modules are a bit too large in width and height, and aren't powerful enough for my needs. I really like Volt modules v1 and v2, along with the 26ah threaded terminal 26ah Panasonic cells Ford has used on some of it's stuff. In fact I just finished and painted a rack for strings of 11s and 10s of the Pansonic cells to bolt onto the trail bike for around town use. It will be interesting to see the handling and feel difference of losing 16kg along the downtube. The placement also moves the CG of the battery lower and rearward about 5", which combined with the weight loss will definitely make my DNM USD8 fork more happy. On the rear the long stroke RC3 shock seems quite content, since I gave up some travel by reducing the leverage ratio compared to the MTBs it was meant for. I had to get a lighter spring made for it (I got 2 different ones done for $34 since they were so cheap...I would have had to pay more than that just in shipping and taxes if I ordered online) and it still only needs about 150lbs of air.

Yes, LFP took my cargo bike down on the beach at night at low tide when the hardpack sand was at least 100M wide. A rogue wave caught him by surprize and splashed the bike pretty good. I hadn't taped up the hall connector good enough and a drop or two of seawater knocked it out of commission, but we had that sorted out and solved long before the battery got to full charge. Any stories of girls and photo shoots falls under the "Out of Town Rule".
 
Here's the middrive kit I got wit BT asi 855 upgraded controller. Download ,firmware, needed the correct BT wire harness 3 weeks after 5 weeks for just the kit to get delivered then get started. Plus noises as my sinewave controller and muxus is silent.
X1 Pro Gen 2 36-72V 5000W Extreme mid drive conversion kit (With torque sensor)
$1,088.00 Regular Price$938.00Sale Price
Controller
 
999zip999 said:
I heard the girl had to push the bike back for him I guess he helped steer. Luke
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Thru the 50-100m of dry fluffy sand I'm sure he needed her help to plow the bike thru that. I don't know, I was up on the street waiting. Earlier that evening I had 4 adults on that cargo bike, and about an hour after the rogue wave and charging while figuring out and fixing the wet hall connector, there was only one late night spot still open and a gas scooter had the audacity to race me. He didn't even reach the turn around point before I crossed the finish line. The crowd loved it.

Here's the quote of the trip for you...said the girl who helped push the bike through the sand..."Are those electric bikes quiet enough to shoot someone without them hearing you're coming?" LOL
 
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