My GM build.

bumper

10 W
Joined
Jun 6, 2008
Messages
65
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See the controller hidden under the rack. I will eventually add a red reflective stick-on to further hide it.
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I wrapped some of the connectors around old bike tubes. It could serve to protect them from rain, too, but I haven't really ridden in a downpour.
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Toggle switch:
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Super stealth mode. I added a grocery pannier bag on one side and a freebie backpack on the other to "hide" the hub motor.
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This is your basic Golden Motors 36V/500W brushless motor (rear version). I installed it on a Kent Bicycles Xmart 26” wheeled comfort bike with full suspension. I am powering it with a 36V ebikes.ca 8ah Nicad triangle battery pack. I thought it would be easy to find a bike that would take this battery pack in the triangle. Wrong. I kinda settled for this bike when I couldn’t find and off the rack, steel, MTB bike with full suspension and room in the triangle. Even though the bike says Aluminum, the rear drops and the whole rear triangle part is steel. Full suspension MTBs mostly clutter up the front triangle nowadays with metal and spring shocks. And, when they don’t, they have other issues like being all aluminum and having disc brakes. Another problem is that the triangle pack is held to the top tube with a Velcro wrap around. Most bikes nowadays have really thick top tubes so this Velcro thing will not go fully around the top tube. Ebikes should be making these bags with longer Velcro to compensate for the thick tubes. Bottom line: You need a bike with a thin top tube for this pack to be able to securely hang from it.

Setup was relatively painless. I looked at some threads here and on the GM forums and learned about some of the wires that were not utilized. I did not install the included brake lever cutoffs or the power led meter dealio. Also, there was a circular cylinder doodag that I was not able to use. I remember that it was supposed to be a separator from the left rear axle hub area. When I used it, it would prevent the hub from moving freely. I also added a Radio Shack toggle switch to the power wire coming from the battery. I kinda use this as an ignition switch.

I did spread the rear drops slightly for the rear wheel to “sit” on the axle. It did not do a "cold spread" with a 2x4. I just slightly expanded it with a screwdriver.

As other GM users have commented, the included rim was low quality. Before I installed it on the bike, I had my LBS install the GM hub on a double-walled Japanese rim.

I can’t speak to the range of this think b/c the longest ride I’ve taken has been 6-7 miles. I’ll post another update when I take this bike on a long ride and really tap it out.

I just completed 100 miles on this baby and here are my impressions (BTW, I weigh 170lbs):

The Good
Speed: At full throttle, on flat ground, I can get up to 20mph with no problems. I am impressed with this speed.
Cushiness: The full suspension does the job. You are carrying a lot of weight (yours plus the bike) and you need to be fully suspended to avoid feeling the bumps on the road. The front suspension is cheap and you can feel it, for example, when you drop off a curb. For a curb drop, you get an Initial cushion then a thud (end of the travel). That’s a cheap suspension. For coming off driveways or basic urban riding the suspension is great. If the front suspension ever bites it, I plan to upgrade it to something higher in quality with more travel. The rear spring is more firm, but will “give” when you need it.
Quiet: Other than the light clicking sound coming from the cassette, this hub is quiet. You sneak up on other riders and have no idea that you are behind them.

The Bad
Motor cuts out on some hills: Here, we have big hills, moderate hills and slight inclines. I’ve discovered that giving full throttle on moderate hills will cause the motor to die. However, turning the throttle between ¼ and 1/8 turn, will allow you to take a moderate hill (although at lower speed). There is no warning before the motor cuts out, too. It’s almost instantaneous. You are going up a hill at about 8mph then it dies. That is frustrating. I would understand if you were to go from 8-7-6-5-4-3mph gradually, but it never goes like that. If it would be a gradual loss in power, I could start pedaling, but this doesn’t let me do that. On steep hills, a 1/8 turn of the throttle and some light pedaling will get the job done. It is the moderate hills that perplex me.

I’ve thought about getting one of those ecrazyman controllers, but the included controller mostly works good. I’d like to hear feedback from you all.
All in all, I’m happy with this build. I would give it a 3.5 stars (out of 5). My commute is not that hilly so I have been able to do it without pedaling (yeah!). I’ll still be on the lookout for FS bikes and their frames that can fit this battery pack, though. I’m certain that a higher quality bike will give me a more cushioned ride.

COST
$367 hub
$110 bike
$70 rebuilt wheel
$370 battery + charger +battery bag + shipping
=====
$917

I've learned alot from members of this board. Thanks for sharing your builds and your willingness to answer questions to newbies like me.
 
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