Need some serious help which battery will fit??

[Revbikes]

Here's battery A: http://lunacycle.com/batteries/packs/48v/48v-panasonic-11-5ah-13-5ah-shark-pack-with-charger/

Here's battery B: http://lunacycle.com/batteries/packs/48v/48v-panasonic-11-5ah-or-13-5ah-dolphin/



Here is an image of my bike: http://imgur.com/ykd0nLs

Here is a diagram of approximate sizes of my frame: http://imgur.com/Ng19Mua

Picture of sticker on frame: http://imgur.com/NbrynSu


Here is a picture of Battery A cardboard cutout: http://imgur.com/a/rzuRW

I tried making a cardboard cutout of battery B but it was difficult making sure it was exact measurements. But from what I made it seems it might fit better? But I can't be sure. I need help determining whether any of these batteries will fit. My preference is only these two, I do not plan on making a rear rack battery or anything else. Just those two.

Also another issue that I see, is if you take a look at one of the picture showing width of the cutout, is that it intersects with the chain ring. Would anyone know if a Bafang BBS02 chain ring will get in the way of this?

 

[Simonvtr]

When you made the cardboard cutout did you accommodate for the mounting bracket?
And how much room you would need to slide the battery to remove it?

Would mounting it under the frame be an option? instead of inside the triangle?

 

[Revbikes]

When you made the cardboard cutout did you accommodate for the mounting bracket?
And how much room you would need to slide the battery to remove it?

Would mounting it under the frame be an option? instead of inside the triangle?

If you took a look at the pictures given in the lunacycle, those are the diagram I used to make the cardboard. Tried measuring the total of battery and mount. As for sliding the battery in and out... probably no room if at all. lol If you look at the picture i provided with the cardboard in the frame that's assuming the entire thing, battery and mount. At least, from what I can see in the pictures at the site.

 

[Jon NCal]

I have the dolphin and normally it would need a couple inches to slide down onto the mount. In other words it needs clearance a couple inches forward from where it will be mounted. Although it might be possible to mount it with long screws up through the downtube, and give up the quick remove feature.

 

[Revbikes]

I have the dolphin and normally it would need a couple inches to slide down onto the mount. In other words it needs clearance a couple inches forward from where it will be mounted. Although it might be possible to mount it with long screws up through the downtube, and give up the quick remove feature.

Would it be possible if you can give me some pictures with a measuring device next to it? And maybe a measurement of your down, top, and seat post. Would really appreciate it. Might need to look for a new bike. :/

 

[tomjasz]

Here.

 

[nutnspecial]

Op, I would:
-Print picture of "B" and scale it, or use several rulers to triangulate the abnormal shape.
-Compare tooth count of current to proposed chainright to approximate new size.
-Determine chainring offset from tube center for bafang if battery ends up that low.
-Consider under downtube mounting relating to bafang placement.
-Consider alternative mounting mechanisms (diy side slide or permanent) for top or bottom of down tube.

 

[Revbikes]

Op, I would:
-Print picture of "B" and scale it, or use several rulers to triangulate the abnormal shape.
I tried. But the cardboard cutout that I made, I'm not too sure of its accuracy. I tried simply scaling it and then print it out then trace over it but all the programs I had for pictures only magnified in 100. not in smaller increments.
-Compare tooth count of current to proposed chainright to approximate new size.
Which one do I count? There are three rings with teeth on them? I'm not familiar with any terms right now.
-Determine chainring offset from tube center for bafang if battery ends up that low.
What is the chainring offset?
-Consider under downtube mounting relating to bafang placement.
I have placed it below, it did not fit without the front wheel hitting it. Top is no fit as well.
-Consider alternative mounting mechanisms (diy side slide or permanent) for top or bottom of down tube.

 

[nutnspecial]

Sorry, I don't have direct experience with the bafang, or even mounting one of those packs. My comments were merely my opinion on the proper direction of 'attack'

As far as the template for B, print it then scale it. You'll have the angles to relate the measurements to. If that's still not enough, make a few 'rulers' to move around until all the measurements line up.

If Luna has good customer service, maybe they can offer an opinion from the template picture as to how their pack can be mounted in the triangle, and if/how it might interfere with the chainring or bafang.

If they don't have THAT great of service, I'd start going through bafang build threads (still prob a good idea) one by one to see what they did and pick up all kinds of tips.

 

[WoodlandHills]

I have a shark battery installed on a 17" frame and I think you will have interference issues with either of those packs. You have to attach the mount with the battery removed, but you also have to have room between the top of the battery and the bottom of the toptube to slide the battery far enough forwards to engage the mount when you install it. It looks like it is pretty tight up closer to the head tube. It also looks in the picture of your bike as if the angle between the seat tube and the downtube is sharp enough to force the battery up the downtube and closer to the head tube when the battery is fully locked back onto its mount. This will give you even less room to slide the battery forward enough to get it to engage or disengage the mount.

Just because the mount and battery will fit when you hold it in place does not mean that it is usable: you still have to be able to take the battery on and off in order to attach the mount to the bike. And you have to be able to lock the battery to its mount. If all else fails you could get a bag for the top tube and stick it in there.... Or you could just use bungies and duct tape!

 

[Jon NCal]

I might be able to do a photo tonight on a 17" frame.

To avoid the mounting/unmounting problem you could drill holes in the down tube and use long bolts from underneath. Then glue in some nuts inside the mount and connect the battery and base at one time. Others have suggested attaching hose clamp mounts to the bottom of the base, which could also help attaching battery/base at one time.

 

[Revbikes]

I have a shark battery installed on a 17" frame and I think you will have interference issues with either of those packs. You have to attach the mount with the battery removed, but you also have to have room between the top of the battery and the bottom of the toptube to slide the battery far enough forwards to engage the mount when you install it. It looks like it is pretty tight up closer to the head tube. It also looks in the picture of your bike as if the angle between the seat tube and the downtube is sharp enough to force the battery up the downtube and closer to the head tube when the battery is fully locked back onto its mount. This will give you even less room to slide the battery forward enough to get it to engage or disengage the mount.

Just because the mount and battery will fit when you hold it in place does not mean that it is usable: you still have to be able to take the battery on and off in order to attach the mount to the bike. And you have to be able to lock the battery to its mount. If all else fails you could get a bag for the top tube and stick it in there.... Or you could just use bungies and duct tape!

How did you mount yours? Using the bottle holder mounts or DIY?

 

[tomjasz]

Each build is a little different. I have them on bottle mounts. I have drilled new mounting holes in bases as well as new holes in frames. I've also used hose clamps. This really isn't all that difficult. Maybe post a picture with a ruler for scale?

 

[WoodlandHills]

I have a shark battery installed on a 17" frame and I think you will have interference issues with either of those packs. You have to attach the mount with the battery removed, but you also have to have room between the top of the battery and the bottom of the toptube to slide the battery far enough forwards to engage the mount when you install it. It looks like it is pretty tight up closer to the head tube. It also looks in the picture of your bike as if the angle between the seat tube and the downtube is sharp enough to force the battery up the downtube and closer to the head tube when the battery is fully locked back onto its mount. This will give you even less room to slide the battery forward enough to get it to engage or disengage the mount.

Just because the mount and battery will fit when you hold it in place does not mean that it is usable: you still have to be able to take the battery on and off in order to attach the mount to the bike. And you have to be able to lock the battery to its mount. If all else fails you could get a bag for the top tube and stick it in there.... Or you could just use bungies and duct tape!

How did you mount yours? Using the bottle holder mounts or DIY?

I had to slide it as far forward as possible on the two cage mount bolts to allow it to clear the seat tube with the battery locked in place. IIRC I also had to make one of the slots in the mount longer and countersink it to let the bolt head clear the bottom of the battery to move it enough. I also drilled a hole in the downtube in the middle of the opening for the third bolt in the mount. I then installed a threaded insert/Rivnut for a third attach point, you will have to come up with your own rubber insert to go between the mount and your bike tube. If you don't use the rubber inserts it will wobble.....

The mount is mostly plastic so all you need is hand tools to make any alterations. I used a rat tail file mostly.

 

[tomjasz]

I then installed a threaded insert/Rivnut for a third attach point, .

Would you be kind enough to add the part location or specs so we can help others with a direct fit part? I get so many of these questions, but haven't used that excellent solution!

Thanks!

I live near the headquarters of Fastenal and could even grab a bunch.

 

[tomjasz]

Would be a great part to list in the wiki!

 

[WoodlandHills]

Here's a couple I have used in the past, the first is my favorite:

http://www.hansonrivet.com/thin-nut-threaded-inserts.htm

http://www.hansonrivet.com/rivet-nut-threaded-inserts.htm

Installation tools are here, you can also use a bolt and nut with washers to pull a single insert. I have the tools from my aviation days......

http://www.hansonrivet.com/threaded-insert-installation-tools.htm

To install a Rivnut w/o an expensive tool, drill your hole, insert the Rivnut, then screw a bolt with a nut threaded onto it into the Rivnut. Hold the bolt stationary with a wrench and with another wrench turn the nut down to draw the back of the Rivnut tight against the tubing. If you want to add suspenders to your belt and make sure the insert never comes loose, put a dab of two-part epoxy onto the outside of the Rivnut before you insert it into the hole, also make the insert as tight a fit as possible in the hole.

 

[Jon NCal]

Okay, I mounted it to a 17" frame and there was about 1.25 inches from the top of the battery to the top tube.

The dimensions of the bikes inner triangle are about 12" seat tube, 18" top tube, 23" downtube.

 

[Revbikes]

Okay, I mounted it to a 17" frame and there was about 1.25 inches from the top of the battery to the top tube.

The dimensions of the bikes inner triangle are about 12" seat tube, 18" top tube, 23" downtube.

Thank you for this! I went to the LBS today and I am planning on getting a GT Palomar 26" Mountain bike. http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1147523_-1___ What are your thoughts? I took a cardboard cutout of the shark battery and it fit the frame of the GT very well and had space to spare. It's just a tad bit too tall but manageable. It's a 18 inch frame I believe.

 

[Jon NCal]

I like a taller bike because it is more comfortable to ride in that you don't have to lean over so far. Just make sure the reach to the bars is not too far, can get a shorter stem extension if needed.

Make sure to set the seat height properly before test riding. In a bike shop they usually set the seat by having you place your heels on the pedals and then pedal backwards. You should be able to do so comfortably without locking your leg out fully, but almost fully extended at max reach.