New 810 LED panel works, but...

Joined
Oct 5, 2016
Messages
23
Location
Central Coast, NSW, Australia
Hi,
I bought a 810 LED panel unit for my 36V geared rear hub motor ebike. Replacing a LCD panel which shattered (when I dropped it), which replaced the original unit which crapped itself when I rode in the rain..

Anyway, the new LED 810 panel did not work out of the box, so I started the process of switching the phase wires around to find the right combo.

Of the 6 possible combinations, the 3rd one I tried worked. Eureaka. However the 3 mode settings, low, medium and high are ignored. It's full power on all settings. (Similar to the first replacement - which I dropped and shattered - it did work out of the box, but it was the same full speed on all settings).

So my question is, should I go on trying more combinations for the phase wires hoping the power mode function will start working as its supposed to? It's a tedious job, thats why I'm asking you guys, wondered if anyone else has come across this.

Thanks in advance
 
The display works completely independently from the controller. It shouldn't have any influence on the phase/hall sequence.

I think there's something wrong with your choice of components. The 810 is an analogue display. It gives a signal of 1v, 2v, 3v for the PAS and 4v for the walk-assist (if you have the button) via the green signal wire. All LCDs are digital. They have two wires for communication with the controller (Tx and Rx). The two types are not compatible. You need the digital 890 LED display if your controller is designed for an LCD.

All these devices have the same red and blue wires which go to the switch, and the ground that goes with the red for power supply. The blue wire carries the power for the controller when the panel is switched on.

Some analogue displays have the 5-way connector because they have an extra wire for the lights. If you connect one of these, then switch on the light switch, you'll probably destroy your controller.

If you have the analogue controller and connect an LCD, the LCD will switch on and it'll switch on the controller. It'll show the battery state of charge, and everything will look normal, but it won't show speed, nor can you change the PAS level or use any of the other functions.
 
ElectricSprocket said:
Anyway, the new LED 810 panel did not work out of the box, so I started the process of switching the phase wires around to find the right combo.
If it worked on the controller before, and the only thing changed is the display, why mess with the phase wires?

As noted by d8veh, the phase wires have nothing to do with the display. If you are having a problem with the display, swapping phase wires around won't fix that, and if swapping phase wires around makes things work then you had a different problem to start with (either instead of or in addition to the one you thought you had ;) ).





Of the 6 possible combinations, the 3rd one I tried worked.

If you only have phase wires (and not halls) to swap around, then it's a sensorless system and there's no need to swap them around at all, because the controller will figure out the order to drive them in as it starts to spin the wheel. At worst, if the controller is old and not smart enough to do that, you'd have to swap any two phase wires to reverse the rotation direction, if it starts the motor up the wrong way.

Otherwise, there's more than 6 combinations, if you have both hall and phase wires.


For the rest of it, take d8veh's words to heart; you'll need to get the right display unit type for your controller. (or get a new controller of the right type for the display unit you have/want to use).
 
It depends which controller you have. When i read your first post again, it seems that even the LCD didn't work properly. All these panels will function with any controller as an on/off switch. the other functions only work if they're compatible with the controller. The LCD power levels only work with the pedal assist, not the throttle. Did you have a PAS, and did it work in any way?
 
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