New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Does anyone know where to buy a replacement torque sensor (and other parts) in the EU?

PSW only ship them from China so would be great to be able to cut delivery time some.

Planning to try to get my old TSDZ2 to hang in there for a bit longer before deciding to upgrade to TSDZ8 or DMO-2.

Thx!

/N
 
Does anyone know where to buy a replacement torque sensor (and other parts) in the EU?

PSW only ship them from China so would be great to be able to cut delivery time some.

Planning to try to get my old TSDZ2 to hang in there for a bit longer before deciding to upgrade to TSDZ8 or DMO-2.

Thx!

/N
Here: Tongsheng Ersatz Drehmoment Sensor für TSDZ2 36V und 48V
(Berlin / Germany)
Did you check what is broken in rhe torque sensor? A lot is diy repairable
 
Hello. I bought the TSDZ2 from PSW - the B version with 850C display. I have previously done 4 builds with this motor - I made the batteries and my friend did the softwareupgrade. Now I needed a bigger bike for my son and bought the B version. But when plugged in with the ST cable and the ST Visual programmer open I can´t read the motor. The visual programmer is setup to STM8S105x6. I have tried with the motor turned on and turned off and without battery power. Any ideas. Did they change the chip on the B version ?
And can the 850C display be flashed with new firmware ? The plug is different than the plug to the 860 display so I guess I need to make a new plug?
 
.... Any ideas. Did they change the chip on the B version ?
And can the 850C display be flashed with new firmware ? ....
There is a good chance this controller isn't flashable.
First is to check the settings. If there is an option to enable/disable the speedlimit, it could be such a controller.
Second is to measure the speedsensor input. If you measure 0V (be carefull with power on), you can't flash this controller.
Tsdz2 connectionsOldNew2.jpg
If the 850C is delivered as stock display with Tsdz2B and does work with stock firmware it can't be flashed.
 
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hi,
Does anyone why some of these torque sensors have 3 pegs and 3 springs, while others have only 2? i have been servicing my motor and i noticed i have only 2 pegs and 2 compression springs, i thought i lost one during disassembly but then i looked it up on internet and some of them got 2 others 3, why is that?
 

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Cost reduction.
In the past Tongsheng had reduced more components, like bearings.
By deleting 1 spring, forces are no longer evenly distributed. They should have placed the 2 springs so they are 180 degrees apart.
 
Here: Tongsheng Ersatz Drehmoment Sensor für TSDZ2 36V und 48V
(Berlin / Germany)
Did you check what is broken in rhe torque sensor? A lot is diy repairable
Thanks!

I have not felt competent to do so, but since I'm now considering replacing the full motor I think I may as well give it a shot, an dif nothing else learn something in the process.

Unfortunately this thread is getting pretty unwieldy as a knowledge-base, so if there is any other, more systematically organized, resource for identifying and fixing tsdz2 problems I would greatly appreciate if someone could point me in its direction.

Cheers,

/N
 
Thanks!

I have not felt competent to do so, but since I'm now considering replacing the full motor I think I may as well give it a shot, an dif nothing else learn something in the process.

Unfortunately this thread is getting pretty unwieldy as a knowledge-base, so if there is any other, more systematically organized, resource for identifying and fixing tsdz2 problems I would greatly appreciate if someone could point me in its direction.

Cheers,

/N
Lots of good info here FAQ
 
Thanks!

I have not felt competent to do so, but since I'm now considering replacing the full motor I think I may as well give it a shot, an dif nothing else learn something in the process.

Unfortunately this thread is getting pretty unwieldy as a knowledge-base, so if there is any other, more systematically organized, resource for identifying and fixing tsdz2 problems I would greatly appreciate if someone could point me in its direction.

Cheers,

/N
I'd recommend starting a new thread and not look for help in this mega thread. I swapped the torque sensor (and everything else) from a broken TSDZ2 motor to a new casing over the winter months. After getting it to run on the bench, installed it in a bike, it's running fine so far with 315 miles on it. You may find some useful info Broken TSDZ2 motor casing rebuild

IMG_3596.jpeg


IMG_3597.jpeg
 
Hi All!

Has anyone bought a tsdz2b from PSW recently? Are they still shipping the old V1 aka ST-based aka Flashable version of it?

Hello. I bought the TSDZ2 from PSW - the B version with 850C display. I have previously done 4 builds with this motor - I made the batteries and my friend did the softwareupgrade. Now I needed a bigger bike for my son and bought the B version. But when plugged in with the ST cable and the ST Visual programmer open I can´t read the motor. The visual programmer is setup to STM8S105x6. I have tried with the motor turned on and turned off and without battery power. Any ideas. Did they change the chip on the B version ?
And can the 850C display be flashed with new firmware ? The plug is different than the plug to the 860 display so I guess I need to make a new plug?
Did you manage to find out which version of the controller you had?
 
I'd recommend starting a new thread and not look for help in this mega thread. I swapped the torque sensor (and everything else) from a broken TSDZ2 motor to a new casing over the winter months. After getting it to run on the bench, installed it in a bike, it's running fine so far with 315 miles on it. You may find some useful info Broken TSDZ2 motor casing rebuild
Thanks, I'll check it out! :)
 
My TSDZ2 was pretty quiet at low RPM, but was noisier than I'd wish when pedalling over 70 RPM, so I decided to replace the fast spinning bearings, which are more likely to transmit vibrations.
I changed the 696RS at the end of the motor shaft, and the 608RS and the 6001RS on both ends of the blue gear axle. I went for branded, C3 grade bearings. The C3 classification means that they are adapted to high speed and have an extended play which can accomodate for larger tolerances (this last characteristic somehow rang a bell when I read it..)
On the first ride the sound was barely lower, but after a few tens of km, the change is truly remarquable ! Now the motor is almost silent at low RPM, and makes a tamed, high pitched whine when cadence increases. In town, I can only hear it on flat tarmac, in a silent street.. The only moment it's really audible is when going slow on a hill, at high cadence, but I don't find it too bothering (and it's much better than before).
I believe the most important bearing for a change is the 696RS since it's the one that spins the fastest and is in direct contact with the external case.

I'm impressed with what can be done with that little TSDZ2 ! With a good heat mod, a change of bearing and mbrusa's OSF, it can become a pretty decent motor ! For a purchase the To7 DM02 is likely a much better option out of the box now, but for around 250€ in Europe the TSDZ2 is still a bargain if you're ready to spend time modding stuff on it..

EDIT : A few hundred km later, it's become even more silent... Seriously, if you're bothered by the noise of your motor, just do this !
 
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There is a good chance this controller isn't flashable.
First is to check the settings. If there is an option to enable/disable the speedlimit, it could be such a controller.
Second is to measure the speedsensor input. If you measure 0V (be carefull with power on), you can't flash this controller.
View attachment 352860
If the 850C is delivered as stock display with Tsdz2B and does work with stock firmware it can't be flashed.
I got 4.8 volt ! So must have the old one. I suppose I'm using wrong COM port. Not used to Windows.
 
Any advice on how to take out the HF1216 bearing from the cylinder thing that keeps it into the blue gear without access to a hydraulic press ? Also, when putting the new one into place, should I use a glue or something, or is the press fit sufficient ?

IMG_3186.jpg

EDIT : I managed to hammer (the heck of) it out, then the new one in, by putting it between a cassette removing tool and a 13mm socket, which happened to be the perfect size (inner and outer diameter) for the job...
IMG_3187.jpg
 
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Any advice on how to take out the HF1216 bearing from the cylinder thing that keeps it into the blue gear without access to a hydraulic press ? Also, when putting the new one into place, should I use a glue or something, or is the press fit sufficient ?
I have no idea - but pls feedback how you solved it: My spragclutch just started slippong, so I‘ll have the same thing to address,,.
 
I have 460 miles on my TSDZ2 now. Today I noticed the chainstay clamp was completely loose and not doing any clamping. I wasn't able to get it back into position and removed it from the bike. The bottom bracket nut (the only one with loctite) is fine as indicated by the whiteout line I drew across the nut and bottom bracket. The motor stayed put (didn't shift), butted up against the down tube. I've read the forces during riding is to push the motor against the downtube so the chainstay clamp is not really needed if the bottom bracket nut is tight. How many here do not use their chainstay clamp?

Here's a successful TSDZ2 install on a Kona Ute where it's not possible to use the clamp since there's just a tube where the chainstay begins. Fitting the Tongsheng TSDZ2 to a Kona Ute - DarkerSide

I will leave the chainstay clamp off and just keep an eye on the nut for now.

IMG_3698.jpeg
 
So I have an old TSDZ2 with the helical main gear. I pulled it out and the teeth are almost gone, folded over, and chewed up. I ordered a new helical main gear. Is there something I need to do to prevent it happening again? I searched the FAQ and this thread, but couldn't find any advice. I didn't see where it is a common problem. It was very high distance, probably over 15000km that I got out of it.
 
So I have an old TSDZ2 with the helical main gear. I pulled it out and the teeth are almost gone, folded over, and chewed up. I ordered a new helical main gear. Is there something I need to do to prevent it happening again? I searched the FAQ and this thread, but couldn't find any advice. I didn't see where it is a common problem. It was very high distance, probably over 15000km that I got out of it.
avoid water and dirt that is open cover and check every few months . add grease ...15000km is a great result anyway
 
In the last year or so I've done seven TSDZ2 builds. Three of those motors have failed already, possibly from heat-related damage to the controllers. The Electrify Bike website now has a notice up that says "NOTE: EBC has been experiencing reliability issues with TSDZ2B and OSF so we have temporarily stopped selling it until the issues are resolved." Has anyone else noticed a systemic problem with the TSDZ2? And if so is a fix from Tongsheng on the way?
 
In the last year or so I've done seven TSDZ2 builds. Three of those motors have failed already, possibly from heat-related damage to the controllers. The Electrify Bike website now has a notice up that says "NOTE: EBC has been experiencing reliability issues with TSDZ2B and OSF so we have temporarily stopped selling it until the issues are resolved." Has anyone else noticed a systemic problem with the TSDZ2? And if so is a fix from Tongsheng on the way?
When did you buy your seven TSDZ2 kits? They don't seem to be available anywhere currently and has been that way for the last 6 months or more. It's not even on Tongsheng's website Mid Motor_Products_Suzhou Tongsheng Electric Appliances Co., Ltd. Motor Meter Controller , only the TSDZ2B, which is suppose to fix all the issues with the TSDZ2. Apparently they have not succeeded at least per EBC.

What happened to your TSDZ2's that failed? What kind of riding and what environment were they used in? Do you have brake cutoff sensors? I rode w/o brake sensors for 300 miles before installing them. W/o brake sensors, I've experienced instances while coming to a stop, with brakes engaged, my right foot's weight was on drive side pedal at 2 o'clock, approaching to 6 o'clock when I take my foot off pedal to dismount. Between 2 and 6 o'clock, the motor was still being powered, fighting the brakes. That can't be good for the plastic gears and motor. Since I installed the brake cut sensors, I do not experience that anymore.
 
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