New unused motor binding

[dirtbiketoebike]

I've been reading the ES almost daily for about a 1 1/2 months now but still so much to learn. Thnaks for all the helpful tips.

I ordered a wheelkit from Dongdianebikekit CO., LTD
It's a 48v with 35A 18 MOZ controller and 1500watt motor.
A universal fit and am coming across many problems.... but let me start with one at a time.

I flipped the bike and installed the wheel and spun it but it was binding like the magnets was clicking without the sound. Kinda like internal magnetic gears. A few issues I came across to make it drag when I spun the wheel,the single bmx style sprocket gear was rubbing in the motor cover like it needed a thrust washer but I just removed it for now.
Then the derailer was rubbing,just added spacersin the inside swingarm to solve that.
Then the disk brakes was off alignment and rubbing for this new motor,"other rear rim works perpect".will need bigger bolts and washers but just took it off for now since I still feel too much drag on the motor.
So now its just the motor in the swingarm of the bike and still click dragging. Noticed the rim has about 1-1 1/2 mm play in on direction. Softly hand pounded the wheel and motor and then it seem like the axle seated against the bearing housing or something and then spun freely.
After 4-6 revolutions spin of the wheel it started binding dragging again,click magnetic type of drag. So I went ahead and took the side covers off the motor to look inside. Yes it is Still under warranty but the time I send it back to China it won't be worth it with shipping. The bearings seem to be flush and didnt really see any type of rubbing but also didn't take out that "stator motor"? out of the hub to see if the magnets was rubbed.
Put it back together and spun good then started to mess up again, hand pounded it to like aligned it again and did fine again. I can't run this motor obviously it may bind at the high speeds and damage or lock up.
Possibly put a washer inside the axel between the bearing? Is it supposed to move side to side a tiny with some play? Also may have ruined a bearing in shipping as the axels was busted out of the box and rim and controller was all dinged up, Poor packaging and think was thrown around in shipping.

 

[dirtbiketoebike]

tried to upload the pics of motor apart but am getting a message saying file too big,not sure how to upload then,sorry

 

[dogman dan]

Sounds like you feel the cogging of the magnets in the motor. If it happens to be, that you have two or more of the phase wire contacts touching, it will REALLY resist. That's the three fat wires.

Be sure you don't have cuts in the wires too, like at the axle. It's fairly easy to make mistakes installing a motor for the first time, and your phases could be shorting through a nicked wire. Or it could have been shipping damage at the axle exit of the wires.

A pretty noticeable resistance is still normal, when all is well. To check if your phases have a short, deliberately short two of the fat wires while they are not connected to the controller. Feel that? If it's a lot more cogging , you didn't have a short before.

The way you describe it coming and going, I really suspect you have a fault in the wires, likely at the axle. It's sometimes contacting and sometimes not.

 

[Ykick]

What he said. Make sure loose phase wires aren't touching or you will get heavy resistance.

I dunno the "official" photo posting specs but I usually resize to 640x480 and reduce resolution to keep file size around 100kb or less. In other words you would never print a digital pic in that format but for monitor use it's fine.

 

[DAND214]

This might be a dumb qyestion.
Are the axle nuts tight or is the wheel just dropped in?
Somtimes if the gear side isn't tight the wheel has side plsy and doesn't when tight with the nut.

If it spins 3 or 4 turns, you don't have a phase shorted. if shorted it wouldn't made 1 turn.

Dan

 

[amberwolf]

tried to upload the pics of motor apart but am getting a message saying file too big,not sure how to upload then,sorry

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=14748

 

[dirtbiketoebike]

Thanks for all the replys! Think i failed to mention no battery was ever hooked up. Still need to buy them lipos. Looked at the wires none was pinched or cut. We had that problem with a 36v kit I helped put together when he didn't care for the wires on the axle and the phase wires rubbed and was touching causing a tug awar with the motor. Kinda glad it happened now ,because I knew what you guys was talking about, lol

I thought the same thing with the axel because I didn't have it bolted down but on this kit unlike the other one I worked on,it had a large axel where it didnt use large spacers but the large axel as the inner spacer, then machined smaller to go in the drop outs. So the remaining problem I thought is that the the motor covers aren't seating on the axel and bearings...least what I can see. Spun the wheel, hand hit it to duplicate some mild riding terrian and it messed up again. Checked the side to side and this time noticed the motor covers moving to and not just the axel area. I Got more lighting. The small allen bolts loosened up already without any weight. Freaking out ...those 8 allen bolts shouldnt have loosened up. Got a rubber mallet out and tightened the allen heads harder, praying not to strip them. one by one and hitting, screwing in and plop, click, seat. This whole dang time the motor housing was just not seat in all the way around the whole motor/axel. And the stator was not centered likely. The outer housing lip cover may have been pinched or bearing not seated against axel. I think its good now. I ended up putting med. Blue lock thread glue on the cover bolts. Maybe lock washers been better too but the bolts seem pretty short already. I will have to look over with the upload picture suggestions. Thanks all...hope I didn't write too confusing.

 

[dogman dan]

Often the problem is looking rather than seeing. FWIW, only 10% of the population is capable of seeing without being trained to see. Most of my college was spent learning to see rather than look. That's science. Now I need better looking, as my eyes slowly fail.

Anyway, now that you see the problem in better light, it was easy to fix eh? You had a crooked cover, and crooked bearing. Next time, you will be sure the covers are fully seated.

From what we were told, it sure did sound like you had the phases touching.

 

[dirtbiketoebike]

Oh yes ....well said. Wonder if the factory missed it too or from shipping, lesson learned one more learning curv added to my ebikes. Yes easy fix now. Thank you.

 

[dogman dan]

I thought you pulled the cover.

 

[dirtbiketoebike]

Yes, I pulled both covers but the "binding" was doing it before I took it apart. Just didnt know if the factory over looked it or from the shipping.

 

[d8veh]

The disc rake will e OK if you add one or two washers inside the drop-out on that side to move the disc away from the caliper mount. If it was the caliper rubbing on the motor, you need a larger disc and adaptor.

 

[dirtbiketoebike]

Thanks...my bike stock is 160mm disc rear, manufacturer description is sying 140mm with adaptor... my next to do list so i can make the disc and caliper align. The previous issue I had was motor covers not flushing.

 

[dirtbiketoebike]

Was excited got the lipos in. All checked in good readings. So was time to work on the bike again. The Original posting to this thread was motor was off balance magnetic binding? .. and I thought I had it fixed. But putting the the rear motor back on on with my torque arms it started messing up again! Took the motor apart and noticed on one of motor's cover the bearing was flush with the case and the other motor cover the the bearing was not flushed and I could see a gap where I think the bearing should be flushed against the motor case like the other motor cover. So I tried to seat the bearing with a large socket and hammer,it didn't go in any...so I then put it in my 20 ton press..I've ruined things that way before. Well I ruined this cover some too. It bolts up still but the sprocket wobbles some now. So I'll have to try and order a new cover. Put it back together and spun fine..just the sprocket wobble some. The bearing did go in more on the cover but not fully flushed. For now it seems like the binding has stopped????
So got all the batteries charged and got them into series and parallel. Tried to start the bike but nothing..just the spark when I plugged in the battery to the controller..The normal spark when first plugging it in. I'm using the 50 amp anderson plug with a 40 amp blade fuse in the positive battery wire. Voltage meter showing the battery series is working fine. My kill button wire harness was too short to reach the handlebar ,it was just 2 wires that I just made longer to reach. I tested the kill button where I joined them. Shows voltage then when I press the kill button..none. So seems to be working. I checked all my connections,seems snug. The controller box wires are not all the same color as the other wires I have to plug in..throttle,levers,kill,ect, but the connection plugs make it fool proof it seems as they are all different so you can plug in the right connectors it seems. I even had a thumb throttle I tried that came as an extra since I choose a twist. Still nothing. Took part the control box again and don't see anything like wires touching or heat stress. No signs of burn up in the controller or motor. Took apart the motor again and looked inside..can't see anything unusual but not really sure what to look for. All wires are connected,no wires seem to be touching anything. There are some of the layered metal separating,not sure the name,where the copper wraps around but not bad at all. My more coils do the same and still runs fine. I don't know what to do next..having mixed emotions on this kit

 

[dirtbiketoebike]

 

[dirtbiketoebike]

pic

 

[dirtbiketoebike]

3rd picture you can see some wire showing where the wire protect isnt covering the yellow.I'll cover it but don't see it touching and shorting anything

 

[dirtbiketoebike]

 

[dirtbiketoebike]

The connectors I have plugged into control box.
1)Left Red/Black anderson battery
2)red/peach to kill button
3)green,blue,yellow to motor
4)red,black,green to twist throttle
5)lager green,blue,yellow,red,black to motor
6)yellow/Black to brakes "2 individual connectors"
7)gray,black,brown to nothing

 

[dirtbiketoebike]

Thanks, got it going for now. Tried 14.8v less and the control box took it. Closer to 48 volts. 18 fets 80 volt caps we figure we give it a shot but the controller or throttle rejected the extra 4s battery.