Programming APT AE96600 controller (update: NOT recommended, unstable program)

volcamin said:
I messed up, very big F moment
BOOm, no more controller for me, lights wont turn on and fuse didn't blow.
Click to expand...
If you decide to order a new controller, please check if you can get that 420A peak DC current from whoever you buy from. It’s a hell of a lot of extra power compared to 250A!
 
So I'm a little confused on something. I've recently got the APT 96800 controller and their new 8kw mid drive, and it's a beast! But anyway, I'm starting another conversion to convert my homeade road trike to electric. I'm wanting to use their 12kw hub motor, and I wanted to try the APT 961000 controller that I'd read exists. However, the QSMotor guy I talk to is telling me something along the lines of that they don't sell the 961000, and that the 96800 is "designed inside for 1000 phase amps", and that they are the same controller just that the 96800 has a software limit. Their English can be a little bit off, so maybe I'm misunderstanding something, but I don't think I am, as is seemed fairly clear. Seeing the recent posts with all kinds of different amp numbers make this more complicated as well.

I thought I'd seen a picture of the 961000, and it looked different physically. If I set the phase amps to higher than 800 on my 96800, am I going to destroy it or something? Has anyone tried setting their 96600 to something higher than 600 phase amps? I'm not real sure how these things work electronically inside, so I don't know if I'll either blow it, or if it'll just not have any noticeable increase beyond 800, or what technically happens inside of these things when I set it to a higher number.

The QSMotor guy essentially said that setting it to 1000 SHOULD be fine. He didn't sound entirely confident though, so that makes me a bit worried.



Also as a side note, I see people mentioning that they "set their DC current setting", as in setting the amount of amps from the battery. I haven't seen such a setting, the only setting I see are phase amp settings, which I'm told changing that will in turn change the battery amps drawn. Or am I missing something there?
 
Hmmm, well that is strange. It allows me to set higher than 800 on mine. I hadn't physically tested it after setting it, but it at least let me set it and write it to the controller.

Also, this mode stuff is confusing. Are those really battery amp settings? Mine lists 5 different modes there, but oddly says I am in "mode 0". No clue how to change the mode, or where the battery amp settings would be for mode 0. The QSMotor fella told me that simply changing the phase amps will in turn change the battery amps used. Additionally, unless I'm somehow doing something wrong, grounding out my eco and boost wires doesn't seem to do anything.

I'm also a little confused about the "Iqref" 1 through 13 settings. From what I understand, those adjust the phase amps at different points in the RPM range. They generally seem to be set so that it drops as RPMs goes up. Simple question, why do they drop and why not just crank every one up to full phase amps?

And another observation, I'm not seeing where to "enable" regeneration, although I do see settings pertaining to it.
 
therobby3 said:
Are those really battery amp settings? Mine lists 5 different modes there, but oddly says I am in "mode 0". No clue how to change the mode, or where the battery amp settings would be for mode 0. The QSMotor fella told me that simply changing the phase amps will in turn change the battery amps used. Additionally, unless I'm somehow doing something wrong, grounding out my eco and boost wires doesn't seem to do anything.

I'm also a little confused about the "Iqref" 1 through 13 settings. From what I understand, those adjust the phase amps at different points in the RPM range. They generally seem to be set so that it drops as RPMs goes up. Simple question, why do they drop and why not just crank every one up to full phase amps?
Click to expand...

Those are indeed max battery amp settings. If your switch is wired correctly for boost you’ll see mode change in program when you switch.

The phase amps drop on higher rpm is natural as possible phase amps close in on the battery amps at higher rpm but the plot shown by qs is only one setting for one motor, not the way it needs to be. I’ve run far higher with only the last bit decreasing towards 250A. I’m not sure even this is needed.
 
Ok thanks for the info. I'll have to change them and see how it feels. I guess I'm just worried if I change something, if it stands the possibility of damaging the controller in the long run. I'm still fairly new to electric motors and such.

I also don't know what battery amp settings my controller will be using if I am in mode 0. Still not sure why the boost and eco mode didn't work either, I'll have to try grounding them directly to the battery instead of the black pin on the controller and see if that works instead.

I did try changing phase amps from 800 down to 400 yesterday and there was definitely a very noticeable different. I'm curious about alot of things. Like what happens if you change phase amps but not battery amps, and vice versa. Also, still not sure how to go between all 5 of these modes. So many questions...
 
Phase amps is what actually sets the torque on your motor (and burns it if you’re not careful), with too low battery amps you’ll not be able to max out the motor at higher speed or give it full phase amps.

Easiest way to see it is as energy balance:
Energy in = (energy out + losses)

This is always valid so it’s the total power into motor and efficiency that’s setting the bar for high output.

(Energy in is DC volts x DC current, DC voltage cannot be multiplied with phase current for power calculations as the phase voltage and battery voltage is not the same)
 
stormizer said:
Answering my own question..
The trouble was the RS232 cable.

The one I had (a few different types) contain an old chip that is not supported anymore by Windows.
Using the right cable (newer chip), it was pretty much plug-n-play.

I also found out that the "EV DriveManager V2.0.0.10.1.exe" version has one important setting not visible on the previous versions: Engine Brake (or whatever the correct term is). We can set how much to put back to battery on "throttle release" and on "brake on".
The default number is -100 ... crank it up to -2000 to start feeling it.
I got mine at -4000 and its putting back about 10A when I release throttle.

Thanks so much!
Click to expand...

Could you tell me what this regen setting is called and what submenu it is in? I presume that it's going to be in either to mode set or reference menu.
 
@larsb Ok thanks for the info, I suppose that does make sense. So it would make sense to me that the controller is doing some magic electronically at low RPMs to turn those volts into amps, providing more torque. And as your RPMs rise, it needs more of those volts to increase the RPMs, so naturally you'll have less torque. Until the RPMs reaches max, and you need ALL your volts, and only you will be able to pull the controller's rated battery amps at that point, since there's no "extra" volts to convert to amps. I think I'm sorta understanding that correctly?

Also another question about this controller if anybody knows. This is my first major conversion, so how do I go about enabling regenerative braking on this thing? I think I would benefit from it a lot. I'm not seeing any setting to straight up "enable" it, although I do see a few settings pertaining to it. Also, does this "high" or "low level brake" pertain to that? Or is that simply engine braking with NO regeneration? I haven't gave either a test yet, and even if I did I don't have a way to know if it's actually dumping energy back into the battery or not.
 
therobby3 said:
@larsb Ok thanks for the info, I suppose that does make sense. So it would make sense to me that the controller is doing some magic electronically at low RPMs to turn those volts into amps, providing more torque. And as your RPMs rise, it needs more of those volts to increase the RPMs, so naturally you'll have less torque. Until the RPMs reaches max, and you need ALL your volts, and only you will be able to pull the controller's rated battery amps at that point, since there's no "extra" volts to convert to amps. I think I'm sorta understanding that correctly?
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Yes, that’s roughly it. At full rpm you’ll only be able to pull noload amps though since then almost all voltage for driving the current is balanced with the back EMF voltage.
 
@ebike I believe it is 120. However, QSMotor has suggested to me to use 96v nominal, and 110v max when fully charged. This was suggested to me for my 96800, but I'm pretty sure it'd be the same for the 96600.
 
therobby3 said:
@ebike I believe it is 120. However, QSMotor has suggested to me to use 96v nominal, and 110v max when fully charged. This was suggested to me for my 96800, but I'm pretty sure it'd be the same for the 96600.
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Ok thanks!
I also looking for a wiring chart for the apt100900
May i ask which wiring charts you have used?
 
Attached is the manual I used. Connecting the "B1" port as they label it, was the key to getting mine to turn on. I believe the wire was pink on mine. Assuming yours is the same, it will need connected to your battery source to turn on. Ideally through some sort of switch so you can turn it on and off.
 

Attachments

  • APT1405 (APT96600) Manual.pdf
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therobby3 said:
Attached is the manual I used. Connecting the "B1" port as they label it, was the key to getting mine to turn on. I believe the wire was pink on mine. Assuming yours is the same, it will need connected to your battery source to turn on. Ideally through some sort of switch so you can turn it on and off.
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ok thx..igot it turned. but the software they sent seems to not work, like run time error etc
Would you have a link or could you attach the program file you are using?
Thanks a lot!!
 
Sorry for the delay. It's not letting me attach the zipped file because it's too large. Contact my email at robby[at]eliatopia.com and I can send the file for you. I do know I had to tinker with some things before getting it to work, but it wasn't too much work.


Side note, I'm still looking for info about regenerative braking on this thing if anybody has any answers.
 
Anyone else have issues with the "modeset" window of the controller software? Whenever I click"write" it's not saving the data to the controller and I'm not getting a "success!" dialogue box. All of the other setting windows appear to be saving, but not the "modeset" one. I need to change parameters in that window to adjust my regen too.. :/
 
larsb said:
I bought an APT AE96600 controller a while back but it's so huge i never used it. Now i have no working controller so my need is more critical :D
image.jpeg
:?: Anyone here has tried this controller and knows how to program it?
image.pngimage.jpeg

It's got 36 FETs with 150v rating and it is HUGE. You won’t fit this on your bike..

controller is rated for high voltage (120V) and relatively low current (200A)—> it’s strength is more for high voltage applications with low kV motor like for overvolting a hub motor.
image.jpeg
I need to know how hard it is to get it running with a new motor before making brackets etc.

User program has a million parameters so i assume it might be complicated.
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Dear help me.. You can send to me the programming software for this controller? Or you can give to me one link so i download dit?

Many thanks
 
therobby3 said:
Sorry for the delay. It's not letting me attach the zipped file because it's too large. Contact my email at robby[at]eliatopia.com and I can send the file for you. I do know I had to tinker with some things before getting it to work, but it wasn't too much work.


Side note, I'm still looking for info about regenerative braking on this thing if anybody has any answers.
Click to expand...


The regenerative braking function was posted by someone on pages 3 to 6 of the forum. It can be set from 0 to 28880. It works perfectly.

I'm using a 14000 and I'm experiencing very strong braking and regenerative braking.
 
Hey guys, Bluetooth APP is now supported for APT too.

I recently bought a 72420 newer controller from a 72400

O1CN01wLOGmo1hjrJNvLKMb_!!0-rate.jpg
 
I too need help or a link or zip file and a way to open in windows 10 i have read this thread from beginning to end with no luck of even opening the programming software any help would be appreciated.
 
philjk2007 said:
I too need help or a link or zip file and a way to open in windows 10 i have read this thread from beginning to end with no luck of even opening the programming software any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

what controller is it ? Recently, APT released a new version controller such as 72420 100400 and changed it to a new program.
 
I have the APT 80550 controller in a 72350 the 80550 controller comes with a water-cooled plate.
 
The water-cooled plate was included with the 80550, or did you buy it separatly?
 
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