Q100 and Q128 with 0.35mm laminations

Looks like Jason is only going to sell the motors/motor parts,

Who knows of a 9 Fet , Sine Wave 48 volt , controller that will work with the Q100 H ? preferably that will handle up to 58.5 volts for a fully charged 14s pack, and will accept up to 20-22 amps .
 
Jasonv8z said:
Sorry, but I can only help you with motors and motor parts at this time. I've been looking into motor controllers but that is another topic.

Cwah, will ask about drop shipping. I think it could be done but I have always had to pay dearly in shipping for sample quantities.


Yeah np just the motor and some parts would be good enough. Ok to pay more, I'm sure some more from EU would want some of these motor, maybe a bit higher number can decrease shipping cost? Keep me informed on options. thank you :)
 
ScooterMan101 said:
Looks like Jason is only going to sell the motors/motor parts,

So ...

Who knows of a 9 Fet , Sine Wave 48 volt , controller that will work with the Q100 H ? preferably that will handle up to 58.5 volts for a fully charged 14s pack, and will accept up to 20-22 amps .

BMS Battery only sells 6 fet sine wave controllers, and they are only rated at 14amps +/- 1 amp.

I got a 48 volt controller from Alxiexpress, but when it arrived, it says only 14 amps +/- 1 amp
and looks exactly , on the outside like the 36 volt controller that BMS sells for the Q100 cst.

The only 9 fet controller BMS Battery has is a square wave ( modified sine wave ) which people here on E.S. have said is noisy


Any Display's that are small , but have the features of the Cycle Analyst , that would work with these Q100H ?

I've used this controller quite successfully on the Q100H:
https://bmsbattery.com/controller/698-sine-wave-controller-for-09-case-controller.html

On 48V it's much better. However, it's still quite expensive and connector may not fit directly if motor comes from factory. Open for suggestions.
 
Jasonv8z said:
Some good news: I've asked about making the clutch stronger and I'm told the new clutch will be made 100% stronger due to extra hardening of the steel and increasing the clutch thickness.

Not so good news: Because I'm ordering a small amount of motors, they're only willing to ship by air, which will raise price somewhat. That being said, I should be able to sell them around $120/motor. Shipping stateside will be around $20 depending on where you live.

With that, I'd like to place an order. I'm proposing a lineup of

Q100H 32H Front 330 RPM
Q100H 32H Rear 200, 330 RPM (freewheel only)
Q128H Cassette 36H 200 RPM (0.5mm laminations only. sorry :( )

Is there anything else you guys would like to see?

Clear anodized possible? I don't really like the black.
I'd love a set of 32h 330rpm (@ what voltage?) q100h motors with clear anodizing. I plan to run 12s lipo.
 
Thanks cwah,

I did not even see that before on their website, probably cause that does not even look like a controller .

What voltage are you running through that odd shaped controller ?


On the Display, can you toggle between seeing how many amps have been used up currently on the ride ?
and can you toggle to see how many total watts you have used ?
or even how many watts you are pulling from the motor ?
 
Mikebergy said:
Clear anodized possible? I don't really like the black.
I'd love a set of 32h 330rpm (@ what voltage?) q100h motors with clear anodizing. I plan to run 12s lipo.

I don't ordering unpainted motors if enough people ask. Otherwise, I suggest removing the paint with acetone or sending them to a finishing shop.
 
Jasonv8z said:
Mikebergy said:
Clear anodized possible? I don't really like the black.
I'd love a set of 32h 330rpm (@ what voltage?) q100h motors with clear anodizing. I plan to run 12s lipo.

I don't ordering unpainted motors if enough people ask. Otherwise, I suggest removing the paint with acetone or sending them to a finishing shop.
If it is a hassle, its no worries, I Prefer the clear ano look, but if its a pain, I can just order my rims in black so everything matches.

Does the 330rpm do alright on 48V in a 700c setup? It seems like it should but I still have yet to know what voltage 330 rpm no load occurs at. I am used to rewinding RC motors and no load rpm and current being measured at a specified voltage. I am looking forward to having these on a dual motor setup running with dual in fine on controllers, so I want to make sure I know what I am getting. 330rpm is at 36V or 48V, or other?
 
I have a hard time believing black paint does anything in the way of heat dissipation, but it is more an aesthetics thing for me. Regardless, yeah, I already have rims picked, I just want to match them to the hubs.
 
Mikebergy said:
Jasonv8z said:
Mikebergy said:
Clear anodized possible? I don't really like the black.
I'd love a set of 32h 330rpm (@ what voltage?) q100h motors with clear anodizing. I plan to run 12s lipo.

I don't ordering unpainted motors if enough people ask. Otherwise, I suggest removing the paint with acetone or sending them to a finishing shop.
If it is a hassle, its no worries, I Prefer the clear ano look, but if its a pain, I can just order my rims in black so everything matches.

Does the 330rpm do alright on 48V in a 700c setup?Does the 330rpm do alright on 48V in a 700c setup? It seems like it should but I still have yet to know what voltage 330 rpm no load occurs at.. I am looking forward to having these on a dual motor setup running with dual in fine on controllers, so I want to make sure I know what I am getting. 330rpm is at 36V or 48V, or other?

The Hubs are not clear anodized, they are polished.

Does the 330rpm do alright on 48V in a 700c setup? It seems like it should but I still have yet to know what voltage 330 rpm no load occurs at.

Only very fit riders living in Flatland need apply. High speed mini motors in big wheels do not make enough power to reach no-load speed and are, in effect, current limited, as opposed to being rpm limited(like the almost every hub motor). The punny controller tries to supply and runs max Amps all the time, hurting efficiency and creating a controller over-heat situation. All this can be seen at the Ebike CA simulator, where Justin has a Q100 328 modeled.

It seems like it should but I still have yet to know what voltage 330 rpm no load occurs at..

Q100 speed ranges measured @ 36 V

Q100 201---220 to 230 rpm.

Q100 260---250 to 260 rpm.

Q100 328---280 to 290 rpm.

Variations are due to who measured them and the fact that reduction ratios have varied over the years, especially the 328.

...am looking forward to having these on a dual motor setup...

Been there, done that. It's an OK combo at best. Although I could get the two motors help each other reach a no-load speed of 28 mph(12S Lipo, 24" wheels), the bike was sluggish thru the mid-range. The controllers wanted lot's of Amps, more in fact, that is healthy for Q100's. A single large, high-speed geared hub motor, like a BPM, will out perform the mini-motored 2WD on less Amps and with less complication.

If I were to start another build today, I think I would try one of the new 128H 328's, which might be pursauded to reach the high 20's mph on 25 to 30 Amps, while not being much larger than a Q100.
 
Thanks for the info. I'm living on the central coast of California, so the routes I'd use this bike on are relatively flat. For hilly stuff, I just ride my regular road bike. I'm very fit, so assistance is not an issue. Has anyone rewound these motors with good wire? Honestly the only reason I'm interested in these motors is for the better lams and the form factor. I plan to run them, and if I don't like how they perform, I'll buy new wire and wind them properly. Most the Chinese motors I've had (HK RC motors), massively benefited from rewinding. I doubt these are any exception. Thank you for verifying the RPM@the specified voltage.
I just had a look at the simulator, I am ok with the numbers it put out, thank you for telling me about that!
 
Mikebergy said:
Does the 330rpm do alright on 48V in a 700c setup? It seems like it should but I still have yet to know what voltage 330 rpm no load occurs at.?

330RPM at 36V no load nominally. As for 700C, I run a single 330 RPM motor on 12S in 29er format and live in San Francisco. I commute about 17 miles a day with one hill that tops at 6% grade at it's steepest (about 250 ft total elevation change). I also use the tiny S06S controller. I haven't had any trouble with this setup, except after ~1300 miles, my controller failed. It's not rated for 12S/44V so I am not surprised. The motor has been fine however, and barely even gets warm even if I use full throttle into a strong headwind all the way home.

This setup doesn't have much acceleration or hill climbing ability, but top speed is okay (30mph with my pedaling). I'm thinking the S06S is so weak it usually wont provide enough power to overheat the motor under normal circumstances. IT also helps that the display does show temperature and I believe has a thermal shutdown setting.

If you're thinking it's all because of my riding abilities, my girlfriend has a similar setup and rides her bike around like a motorcycle. She doesn't like to shift, so she leaves her bike in highest gear possible even when she's climbing hills. That way she barely has to rotate her pedals to fool the crank sensor. I put a motor on her bike so she could get exercise. I don't think it's helping :cry:
 
Jasonv8z said:
I put a motor on her bike so she could get exercise. I don't think it's helping :cry:
:D

Where I live (San Luis Obispo,Ca.) is nowhere near as hilly as SF, at least in town and one the main commute paths. The things is, the factories wind these motors with fairly small gauge wire - is it possible to ask the factory to wind with a heavier gauge? Do you know what they are using?
I appreciate your feedback on your usage in SF. I should, on a dual motor setup, be able to run these motors nearer their rpm limit than running just one, seeing that the load will be distributed between the two, and that should drop them down to more acceptable power levels, for both their windings and for their mechanicals. That should make the operation better in every way except for maybe the gyroscopic effects on the front. But then again, people deal with that on regular single motor front motor setups anyway. My dual setup will add redundancy and safety to the system at the cost of about 5-6lb.

What is your planned time frame for your next order? I am trying to figure out whether the motors will get my next play money or the controllers.
 
Has anyone here used a 52 volt battery pack ( 14s )
Or 59 volts ( 16 s ) more likely for me since I can put together 4 x 4s packs. where as 7 s packs are less available.
So 59 volts through a Q100 or Q100H hub motor ?

If so what controller ?

would a infinion controller work with the Q100 H ?

I would like to up the volts from the standard 36/48 on those motors , in order to use less , ( 15-18) amps .
 
ScooterMan101 said:
Has anyone here used a 52 volt battery pack ( 14s )
Or 59 volts ( 16 s ) more likely for me since I can put together 4 x 4s packs. where as 7 s packs are less available.
So 59 volts through a Q100 or Q100H hub motor ?

If so what controller ?

would a infinion controller work with the Q100 H ?

I would like to up the volts from the standard 36/48 on those motors , in order to use less , ( 15-18) amps .

Using 16S through a Phaserunner on a 201rpm. Currently limiting to 800W, and using 1000ms torque ramp.

Runs like an absolute dream. Thinking of cranking it to 1000w with the controller protecting the clutch from sudden changes in torque.
 
ScooterMan101 said:
Good to know,
Which do you have the Q100 or the Q 100 H ?

Q100H

ScooterMan101 said:
If my math is right , you have limited the controller to 13.56 amps ?

The maths may be right, but the assumption isn't. The Phaserunner has a neat feature where you power limit rather than current limit. So when the battery is full, it can draw up to 11.9a, but when the battery is near empty or sagging, it can draw up to 14.3.

ScooterMan101 said:
At $ 300 I am not sure how many people are going that route, but I would consider it , if it could be transferred to two different bikes.

I cannot rave about it enough. Short of making your kids starve for a week, you won't regret getting the Phaserunner for bikes under 1kw. The power vs current limit is just of the many features. I've also got it programmed to ramp up the power rather than just suddenly cut it in, and there are so many other features I still haven't looked at yet. Probably somewhere down the line I'll look at thermal throttling, to reduce or cut power when it gets too hot, then once I feel it's working, crank the power up even higher - Especially if I get one of Jason's reinforced clutch motors.

ScooterMan101 said:
Are you using the Display that is usually made for the Q100 , the S-LCD 3 ?
or
Cycle Analyst , CA 2.3 ? CA 3 DPS ?

Neither at the moment. I'm running headless. If I need diagnostic information, I just put a laptop in my pannier, and go for a ride using BACDoor as the datalogger.

ScooterMan101 said:
Looks like I will be trying the 328 rpm H model of the Q100, what difference would that make compered to the 201 rpm ?

What size wheel? I wouldn't recommend it on a 700 or 29er. Maybe a 26", probably okay on anything smaller.

ScooterMan101 said:
What amp hour packs are you using ?

5Ah and 16Ah (12S), depending on how far I'm going.
 
?? did you mean to say when the battery is full it limits draw to 14.3 and when battery near empty or sagging 11.9 ?

[/quote]
The maths may be right, but the assumption isn't. The Phaserunner has a neat feature where you power limit rather than current limit. So when the battery is full, it can draw up to 11.9a, but when the battery is near empty or sagging, it can draw up to 14.3.

I thought you said in above post you were using 16s , ?

[/quote]
5Ah and 16Ah (12S), depending on how far I'm going.[/quote]
 
1. Nope. Always 800w, so less current when the battery is full, more current to make up for the lower voltage when the battery is empty.

2. Yes, Windows. Programming is very easy - a matter of entering a number. Knowing what that number does may require a few questions here.

3. I think in the previous page, he mentioned getting reinforced clutches.

4. Electric motors are most efficient when run >80% of unloaded speed. a 328 in a 700c wheel @ 16s should be a hair over 60km/h. That means if you aren't putting enough power in to drive you 48km/h+, it's in its inefficient band. Ergo, less range than selecting the properly wound motor. In a worst case scenario, you could melt these small motors.

5. 5Ah pack = 16S, 16AH pack = 12S.
 
1. Ok, but that is counter intutive,

2. Do you have to be on the net to program it , or download a program from Grin ?

3. I hope so, that would be great to have two improvements on it . Edit : I just went back and read through many posts and sure enough he did say that the Mfg. will make the clutch stronger.

4.
D8veh in England said a while back to me that the the 260 rpm would be a good middle ground for overall usage, but Jason is only going to get the 201's and 328's


Wonder what efficiency I would be running a 328 rpm in a 700c wheel at 34 to 37.5 Km's per hour, ( there are fit roadies around me that ride at those speeds, a few on the time trial type bikes that ride even faster ! )

Ok, you use both 12s and 16 s , do you have to program the controller each time you switch out from 12s to 16 s packs ?
( I am Still having sticker shock on that $ 300 controller at Grin but if it goes on sale, and can be switched out to different bikes, then I would like to try it .)

>

Sunder said:
1. Nope. Always 800w, so less current when the battery is full, more current to make up for the lower voltage when the battery is empty.

2. Yes, Windows. Programming is very easy - a matter of entering a number. Knowing what that number does may require a few questions here.

3. I think in the previous page, he mentioned getting reinforced clutches.

4. Electric motors are most efficient when run >80% of unloaded speed. a 328 in a 700c wheel @ 16s should be a hair over 60km/h. That means if you aren't putting enough power in to drive you 48km/h+, it's in its inefficient band. Ergo, less range than selecting the properly wound motor. In a worst case scenario, you could melt these small motors.

5. 5Ah pack = 16S, 16AH pack = 12S.
 
ScooterMan101 said:
4. Hmm, That is different than riding my motorcycle, I ride in the Mid RPM range, but its best power is up in much higher RPM's , I get the best MPG or for the rest of the world, ( Km's per Liter ) , running it in mid RPM's ,
so I am used thinking about best efficency by using half or less of the full power.
D8veh in England said a while back to me that the the 260 rpm would be a good middle ground for overall usage, but Jason is only going to get the 201's and 328's


Wonder what efficiency I would be running a 328 rpm in a 700c wheel at 34 to 37.5 Km's per hour, ( there are fit roadies around me that ride at those speeds, a few on the time trial type bikes that ride even faster ! )

Ok, you use both 12s and 16 s , do you have to program the controller each time you switch out from 12s to 16 s packs ?
( I am Still having sticker shock on that $ 300 controller at Grin but if it goes on sale, and can be switched out to different bikes, then I would like to try it .)

Petrol motors are definitely not most efficient at the high RPMs. So it makes sense on a petrol bike to keep load and rpm low. Electrical motors however, are most efficient at or near the top RPM. Its why they tend to burn out going up hills when they're bogged down, rather than when they're going fast.

Check out the graph below. It's for a Mac, rather than a Q100, but they're both similarly designed Geared Hubs, and they do all have similar shaped curves, even if lamination thickness and winding affects the actual numbers:

1275960294470_hz-myalibaba-web11_10763.jpg


You can see efficiency peaks out at about 75% of the max RPM, at just over 80% efficient. I don't want to go into too much detail, but those curves can be deceptive. Let's just say if the Q100H can safely dissipate 200W of heat into the air, then going from 80% efficient @ 1kw (200w of waste heat generated), to 70% efficient (300w of waste heat generated), doesn't mean you've lost 10% efficiency. It means you've gone from absorbing 0w of heat to absorbing 100w of heat. That 100w could melt enamel coatings in a very very short time.

I rarely change between 12 and 16S, since I rarely travel >20km these days. But I have the other config saved and it's about 5 clicks in the programming software (Which you don't need the internet to use) to change over. If I had a BMS on my 16S pack (have ordered one), I could easily just set the LVC to 42V and the HVC to 68v, and both packs would be happy. But without a BMS, I don't want to get sloppy and over-drain the battery.

eBikes are definitely meant to be a money saver, so a controller that sets you back $300 is definitely a shock, especially when you can get other good Sinewave controllers at $40-50. I don't know why I love the Phaserunner so much. I think most of it is because it's silent. Totally silent, as compared to just the quiet of the S12SH. The ability to program things like throttle feel and start up currents is also useful, but also, all the other bits about field oriented control providing better efficiency than other types of commutation just appealed to the perfectionist in me, even though I will probably never notice the 1-2% gains. I know I shouldn't be pushing you towards any single solution, since your needs and financial situation could be very different from mine, but the first few rides I had with this controller really did live up to the "Grin Cyclery" namesake. After years of buzzing and having to feather my throttle to get a smooth take off, it was just such a natural, gentle feeling, like I was getting on a bike at the top of a hill, not riding an electric.
 
Without a gearbox it seems like there is always going to be the problem of not running a hub motor at the most efficient rpm , so for people who want to ride at the upper speeds
For those of us that ride on the road with big/heavy cars and trucks , the faster / larger diameter wheels , is a necessary trade off,
so ... is there not some cooling effect on the motor when air is passing over the surface of it , at faster speeds ?
to actually reduce some of the heat build up ?
the work around to that heat/bogging down problem, that I do now with my Mac powered bike , is to use less throttle, but keep pedaling , using many gears , so as to not have the motor bog down.
When I go up hills I presently use all of the 8 cogs available on the rear , and also at the same time only have the throttle about 1/2 or less , so as to over come the heat problem.
But is the Mac just better at not absorbing / holding on to heat than a motor like the Q100H ?

I would like to see a road test with the same motor, like a Q100H ... on the same road bike, with a 26 inch rear and a 700c rear , in both 201 and 328 winds, done with
the same battery , the same controller, display, etc. with some thermal readings, trying to do this with graphs just does not convince me, as I am running a fast wind 410 rpm , mac motor
with large diameter wheels at the present time , and I run it at 200-400 watts most of the time , it does just fine. So I really wonder about graphs, since someone is already using that motor on a 700c wheel, with good results.


By the Way, the 4s packs that were said to be a good deal , are no longer a good deal price wise. I was thinking about making them into a 16 s pack, but they have gone back up in price, so it looks like I am back to
looking into 52 volt pack when the price gets better, or just using a 48 volt pack that I already have now, it is rated at only 2c max continuous but it would work with the little low power Q100H .
So it looks like my speeds will not be all that much with a 700c wheel and 328 rpm wind , after all. ( I do want to start using 52 volt pack in the future )








Sunder said:
You can see efficiency peaks out at about 75% of the max RPM, at just over 80% efficient. I don't want to go into too much detail, but those curves can be deceptive. Let's just say if the Q100H can safely dissipate 200W of heat into the air, then going from 80% efficient @ 1kw (200w of waste heat generated), to 70% efficient (300w of waste heat generated), doesn't mean you've lost 10% efficiency. It means you've gone from absorbing 0w of heat to absorbing 100w of heat. That 100w could melt enamel coatings in a very very short time.

I rarely change between 12 and 16S, since I rarely travel >20km these days. But I have the other config saved and it's about 5 clicks in the programming software (Which you don't need the internet to use) to change over. If I had a BMS on my 16S pack (have ordered one), I could easily just set the LVC to 42V and the HVC to 68v, and both packs would be happy. But without a BMS, I don't want to get sloppy and over-drain the battery.

eBikes are definitely meant to be a money saver, so a controller that sets you back $300 is definitely a shock, especially when you can get other good Sinewave controllers at $40-50. I don't know why I love the Phaserunner so much. I think most of it is because it's silent. Totally silent, as compared to just the quiet of the S12SH. The ability to program things like throttle feel and start up currents is also useful, but also, all the other bits about field oriented control providing better efficiency than other types of commutation just appealed to the perfectionist in me, even though I will probably never notice the 1-2% gains. I know I shouldn't be pushing you towards any single solution, since your needs and financial situation could be very different from mine, but the first few rides I had with this controller really did live up to the "Grin Cyclery" namesake. After years of buzzing and having to feather my throttle to get a smooth take off, it was just such a natural, gentle feeling, like I was getting on a bike at the top of a hill, not riding an electric.
 
Sunder, and others,

Hopefully someone here on E.S. will buy one of the improved Q100h , front hub motors , and make his own stoke monkey type of mid drive, and report findings back to us.
Take the disc brake side, then get a cog off a cassette, drill 6 holes into the cog in order to bolt that cog on to the motor . then run a chain around it to the front inside chainring ,
so that you can pedal with using the outer chainring and all rear cogs .
That would allow you to use a hub motor , and , the rear gearing to keep the rpm's high for any speed, and/or any % of incline .
That
Would seem to me to be the answer to many problems of a hub motor .
 
"Many problems"??
If one starts with reasonable expectations, and is smart enough to match the motor speed to those reasonable expectations, there aren't "many problems".
I would submit that hub motors are the least problematic of all the various drive systems.
 
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