Reprogrammed 6fet stalling

[Bluefang]

Hey guys, I recently bought a pair of 6fets from Lyen, they work perfectly out of the box on my 9C but they were not programmed for 72V and high power and would trip out by hitting the current limit, so seeing as i ordered them with the programming leads and everything i grabbed my laptop and reprogrammed them to 18fet parameters and set the current setting to max which should have ended up with about 100phase and 50 battery current with out modding the shunt and no tripping on acceleration. Big mistake, since i reprogrammed the controller they spin up to max speed but as soon as i put any load on the wheel it just stutters and wont spin. When i ride the bike no matter how fast i am going if there is a load on the motor it wont accelerate. Works fine on the stock 9C controller and worked on the stock 6fets

I have reprogrammed 3 controllers now, tried all different setups. My custom tune with high block time and amps all the way down to the standard 6fet and on everyone it still stutters under any load. Anyone have any suggestions on what could cause this, could it be my laptop as i used to tune from my desktop computer(kinda hard to be a bike next to it now). Both computers are running Windows 7, when programming before the stutters i had XP on my main computer about 1yr ago.

I have tried downloading what i think are the latest software http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=14836. but for some reason i cannot unzip them as they keep comming up saying they are corrupt, both zip and Winrar. I remember seeing a thread about some rebuilt software that was a modified version of Lyens standard ones for high powered applications, does anyone have a link to that.

Any help would be great.
Derek Hohmann

 

[neptronix]

Well first of all, 50 amps and 100 phase are correct settings for a 12fet...
6fet is more like 25amps batt and 75 amps phase.

There is an internal limit i hear that will prevent the poor little controller from exploding at those amp levels and that is probably what's causing your studdering or stalling under load. At 0rpm, max torque is generated and the controller will put out maximum amps with any kind of real load ( such as a person sitting on the bike )

Have you asked the person who sold you the cable for the software?

 

[Mike1]

So you set the board type to EB218? That will actually lower your current limit (a lot) because it tells the microprocessor to expect a much lower shunt value.
You get maximum current on a 6 fet board when it is programmed as a 6 fet board.

 

[Bluefang]

The internal limit is not causing me the problem, i have tried many different programmings of the controller all the way down to 6fet, 25amp battery and 50 amp phase and it still stutters. When i program the controller with the 6fet settings it hits that internal limit where it shuts down and you have to release the throttle to get it to run again, thats fixed by programming as 18fet and multiplying the current by 3-4 to get a real world current limit or moding the shunt. The stuttering is just that stuttering. When completely stopped it stutters back and forth and when the wheel is running it stutters and adds almost no torque as the bike is moving, but when its free in the air it revs up to speed very smoothly and noticeably faster when programmed at the 18fet with highest current limits, on the 6fet it cuts out at any fast movement of the throttle. I have also reprogrammed a 12fet with the same result of stuttering. I will attempt to run the programmer on a WinXP computer tomorrow to see if that affects it.

I have lyens software and the link to his latest. but i know i have seen a thread about someone modifying the parameter designer for higher power applications then lyens runs at. I dont really think its the software itself, might just be the loading of it on my computer that's causing me problems but atm i am going to try anything i can.

Derek

 

[mdd0127]

I'm pretty sure you have to LOWER your current settings in the programming when setting it to a a larger board size. Also, I think that his hard current limit is to forcibly teach riders how to apply the throttle. I haven't experienced it in person yet but it sounds to me very similar to punching the gas on a car that's not tuned well or warmed up and flooding it. With proper throttle application, the car will run for years this way. Maybe a bad example but it sure seems like that limit is there for a reason.

If nothing helps in the programming, another thing it could be is a hall wire getting rubbed or shifted when the motor starts making torque.

 

[Bluefang]

It doesn't effect the controller either way lowering or raising the current level so i can rule that out of the equation. And the current limit has nothing to do with teaching people how to ride its just there to save the fets, which all my controllers are running higher rated fets that lyen sells his controllers with. Anyway I should have the programming done on Monday evening i hope, i have pmed a ES member, thewmatusmoloki who is been very nice in offering to help out. Hopefully this is all some freaky situation caused by a fault in either my programming cable or my computers.

I found the high current modified program here http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=26905 but it didn't fix my problems either
Derek

 

[thewmatusmoloki]

Always happy to help out a fellow ebiker.

Drop over anytime after 4pm on monday Derek and we'll see if we can get 'em going.

You don't have to bring any beer. But if you just "have" to. VB or Tooheys is cheapest :wink: :wink:

Matt.

 

[Bluefang]

The new cable didnt seem to have any effect so i ll try a few different things.

 

[mr.electric]

You probably pushed one of the pins out of the motor side of the hall sensor plug when plugging and unplugging.

 

[Bluefang]

Nahh its not that unfortunately, when i first had this problem with my 12fet i thought it could be a bad connection somewhere so i soldered everyone, didnt affect it unfortunately. And with the 6fets i check the plugs pretty well and with just a hall sensor missing it either wont spin at all or it will keep spining once started but be very rough. With my problem its smooth as a babies bottom when in the air and with load it shudders back and forth a few millimetres

 

[neptronix]

Hmmm.. got a battery with a crappy bms? that would be my last guess.

And hall sensor degree set to 'auto' ?

 

[Bluefang]

dont have a BMS, i am using RC lipo batteries 18s20AH

Here is a quick video of the motor in action, hopefully i am not a idiot but i hope someone says something like "you moron, you have go A, B and C wrong. heres the right answer." I ll be a very very happy boy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAI1II7s8m8

 

[neptronix]

Hmmmm.. that motor doesn't sound right. Does it sound different than your stock controller? usually a 9C is quieter and very smooth sounding.

Have we ruled out an incorrect phase/ hall order yet?

 

[Bluefang]

yeah its a stock 9C, and i have tried all 36 combinations of halls and only 2 settings have worked with one going backwards Still does the same thing.

 

[ronnieb52]

Yeah, it has a skipping sound to it. Don't sound good to me.

but then mind doesn't sound like that.

 

[Bluefang]

Ok, I am a moron so its all good. After thinking about the hall phase set-ups i thought well i am not very organised so i didnt write down every combo that i could try and tick them off so i might have missed one. So i looked up the phase and hall combo for infineons and the 9C and it worked perfectly....swapped blue and green on halls and phase = working. Sorry for wasting everyone's time. It really confused me that with the other hall setting the motor would run smooth and would start at the turn of hte throttle no matter where it was, most other motors i have played with wouldnt even consider starting in most places unless the phases/hall combos were spot on.

Thanks for everyones help Pitty my ego got in the way
Derek