Revolt Rv-120 pro/ norco aline Video teaser

boisrondevens said:
cnc parts
Click to expand...


Man you got so many dope parts on that thing you need to link to a really big picture so we really can take in all the details of your hard work.
Amazing craftsmanship. How does she ride and climb? Do you even notice the extra weight or is it hardly not even noticeable?
 
Thanks' guys,

The learning curve with the CNC machine as being hard. Now I have SolidWork and solidcam :).
I can make any parts. If you want any custom Torque arm just provide me a drawing and I'll make it happen.
I have redone the extended dropout to make it more stiff and symmetric to the frame line.
There is so many changed to that built the bike ride like a charm.
I'm so happy and excited for my future build.
I'll take more pictures tonight so you can understand the extent of the work.
Your feedback are more than welcome: )
 
I am upgrading my 3 yeard old son's oset 12.5 trials bike so he can compete with hies friend in karting track. Hes friend are using petrol powered 49cc minibikes with about 2kw power. Altough my son is so young he is also very competitive so we need a little bit more power. We are now running the stock motor (500w, 24v) @ 1600w (40A,40V) but we need a little more toruqe to karting track, now we are something between 4NM-6NM. Stock motor is XYD-13.. What about that RV120, how much torque we could achieve with 100A and 60 volts?

Our rear tire outer diameter is about 12" and I think we gear it to achieve maximum speed 60kmh (37mph). But at start we adjust it a little bit lower with controller. We are now achieving speed like 35kmh with stock motor and its very easy speed to my boy. :) Any better solutions? :)

This is our first 6 months with this bike (my sons age 2.5 to 3 years)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fXcchslTVU8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R9Kq3wrVWXk
 
Stielz said:
Looks bloody good mate. Keen as to see some video.

How does that motor handle a bit of abuse? Any problems with overheating?
Click to expand...


I Have made some video's riding above 90's
I'm not to confortable putting video's online showing me breaking the speed limites.
The Motor run like a charme.
I have so many projets and so little time to ride...
 
redline2097 said:
I am planning to build my kids trial bike with RV 120 pro and this controller http://kellycontroller.com/kbs72181e110a24-72v-mini-brushless-dc-controller-p-1315.html what you think?

What kind of a AH your pack has and how far you can reach with it? We are currently having 60v 15ah but is it enough?
Click to expand...

I have a 20s and 30S :twisted: pack with 16ah. How far is always the impossible question to answer since it depends on many facteurs.
If you want to get the most of this motor, you should get a more powerful controller. I always had a problem with Kelly current numbers...
 
What size is the spring on your rear shock. After you extended your dropout did you not have to go up in spring rate..?
 
redline2097 said:
What smallish controller you recommend for rv120 pro? Size wise I can't fit wider than 120mm.
Click to expand...

I Have used many controllers with this motor.
I have a 24 fets (4115) -18 fet (4115)-12 fet (4110) I realy like the acceleration with 18fets.
All my controllers are custom for higher power...

http://www.ecyclotron.com/product/cryst ... s-18-fets/
 
I really like the convenience of having my batteries in my back pack but some customers that want to try the bike find it annoying.
So I decided to have a small 20s 12AH pack on the bike. the best place to put it is the front fork.
one on the benefit is prevent weelis.

work in progress...
 

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boisrondevens said:
cnc parts
Click to expand...

Nice Job! Your version of the replaceable dropouts is awesome, are they steel or aluminum? I did a build with a stealth bomber motor in custom dropouts on the same frame, that A-line frame is a BEAST, one of my all time favorites. :D

Oh shoot I just noticed the front-mounted pack too, nice mounting technique. I pioneered the front mount to double crown fork here (pelican boxes with aluminum weight clamps, link in my signature) and faced a lot of nay-sayers, but once you get used to it, having the weight up front is significantly improves handling. I still believe it is the best location for the battery on street bikes, not so much for an off-road/wheelie duty cycle. 8)

-JD
 
oatnet said:
boisrondevens said:
cnc parts
Click to expand...

Nice Job! Your version of the replaceable dropouts is awesome, are they steel or aluminum? I did a build with a stealth bomber motor in custom dropouts on the same frame, that A-line frame is a BEAST, one of my all time favorites. :D

Oh shoot I just noticed the front-mounted pack too, nice mounting technique. I pioneered the front mount to double crown fork here (pelican boxes with aluminum weight clamps, link in my signature) and faced a lot of nay-sayers, but once you get used to it, having the weight up front is significantly improves handling. I still believe it is the best location for the battery on street bikes, not so much for an off-road/wheelie duty cycle. 8)

-JD
Click to expand...

Hi Oatnet,

Your built was the reason y I fall for that frame: D
The Dropout is made out of alloy 6061, as you can see it evolve quit since the first version.
I had the batteries on the front fork before but the feeling I had with 20s 16ah was a bit too annoying for steering
My primary battery pack will be in my bag and the one in the front will be for short distance and for customers that want to try the bike (20s 10ah). I can confirm that having more weight on the front fork help to prevent wheelies and it's more comfortable since the fork contract better
 
boisrondevens said:
Your built was the reason y I fall for that frame :D

I had the batteries on the front fork before but the feeling I had with 20s 16ah was a bit too annoying for steering
Click to expand...

:oops: and here I thought it was coincidence - your build quality far exceeds what I did, nice job!

It takes a while to fully adapt to the heavier front end. :D After many years with big front packs, I built a lightweight bike with a 3lb center-mounted pack, used for mostly pedaling - it was a real struggle to get used to the light front end, I kept overcorrecting and forgetting to transfer my weight up front.

I look forward to seeing where you take this! :mrgreen:

-JD
 
I like the CNC housing, I had a similar design in mind. Also I would mill on the outside (or inside?) for nickel strips. Are these 1mm spaced?
 
Nice job on the battery holders!

-JD
 
What material for battery holders? How will those holders work with bars or welds? I just can't picture it in my head.
 
macribs said:
What material for battery holders? How will those holders work with bars or welds? I just can't picture it in my head.
Click to expand...

looks like it's made for soldering. that would be ok because the cells already have tabs welded to the poles, so the heat from the soldering iron should not be an issue..
 
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