Shelf live of Silicone (RTV) after opening

Zambam

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When you need RTV, have you run into one that's been opened sitting in your tool box for a while (months/ years) but the stuff inside has cured so it's useless? That's happened to me quite a few times.

This tube is at least 3 years old and is 1/2 full. The stuff inside is still fine and flows out the nozzle easily (used it yesterday). A fender bolt from a car taps into the aluminum nozzle for an air tight seal. Add 2 layers of plastic sheet secured with rubber bands for good luck.

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This tube is at least 3 years old and is 1/2 full. The stuff inside is still fine and flows out the nozzle easily...
BTDT, yet sometimes for me it looks good, flows good, but refuses to set up (remains goopy.).
 
I store mine, along with several other types of adhesives, in a drybox as many adhesives cure my reacting with moisture in the atmosphere. The other notable ones this is a big issue for is cyanoacrylate and polyurethane adhesives.
How does your dry box work? Did you make or buy?
 
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A box meant to keep out humidity, or even to remove it. Look up 3D-printer filament accessories; you'll find a lot of types.


Moisture helps at least some types of silicones to cure, so even a tiny bit of humidity getting into / thru the plastic of the lid or being deposited into it like from the oils in your fingertip touching the inside of the lid or the edge of the tube's "nozzle", can cause the stuff near that point inside the tube to cure. if it's a caulking tube, there's no seal at the push-end, and humidity can creep thru the edges of the plunger plastic and cure that end of the tube even faster than the open (or unopened!) dispenser end.

Plenty of silicones in metal or plastic tubes I've had have done this; some will last a very long time, years, even a decade, but most will begin a cure process that travels thru the tube within a year or less. The warmer the storage area, the faster it may be, and the more humid almost certainly the faster it will be.


Other silicones may fail to cure once they age enough; depends on the type.

I have some platsil from SmoothOn, a two-part stuff for making molds from, that I've had for a couple of decades, I think, and it is *finally* reaching the point where it won't cure properly when mixed (heating the mold full of it in a toaster oven at something between 150-200F for a couple of hours could force it to cure, but it could remain tacky for weeks, or "forever"). I think it comes with a 2-year expiration date; mine has been abused and poorly stored in wildly varying conditions over the years as I used it for various projects, and it managed to survive ten times that...but I would never expect it. :)

(keep in mind I live in Phoenix, AZ, desert conditions, so very low humidity almost all of the time).
 
How does your dry box work? Did you make or buy?

Yeah my drybox for adhesives is a plastic pretzel jar with a few inches of silca gel in the bottom and a gasket added to the lid, although I have a few of the calk gun tubes in my printer filament dry chest because they are big, I don't have much hope for them though. The dry chest is pretty good, it's one of those large plastic truck bed style plastic bins with gaskets added and about 15lbs of silca gel, but most filaments I use are in their own sealed boxes with the particularly sensitive ones the silca gel is replaced with molecular sieves. I also have another drybox for some moisture sensitive additives made from a gamma2 vittles pet food container and I really like it, if you were to buy a container I would highly recommend them. Lots of different sizes, very affordable for their size, solid material, nice gasket, easy to use lid. Doesn't come with peanut butter filled pretzels though which is a downside.

I have some platsil from SmoothOn, a two-part stuff for making molds from, that I've had for a couple of decades, I think, and it is *finally* reaching the point where it won't cure properly when mixed (heating the mold full of it in a toaster oven at something between 150-200F for a couple of hours could force it to cure, but it could remain tacky for weeks, or "forever"). I think it comes with a 2-year expiration date; mine has been abused and poorly stored in wildly varying conditions over the years as I used it for various projects, and it managed to survive ten times that...but I would never expect it. :)
That's nice to hear I have various types of similar SmoothOn silicones and while I use them much faster than that some sit around for a bit and I figured I probably didn't have to worry about the shelf life it's always hard to know.
 
Have you tried using vacuum? I had an opened POR-15 four oz can of rust preventive paint maybe 8 years ago which I put in a glass mason jar, drew a vacuum on the jar which made the POR-15 last around 2 years or so as I remember. The POR-15 lid would pop off because the air inside the can was also evacuated so the jar and POR-15 must be kept upright.

I tried vacuum with opened CA glue which did not work very well since the caps do not form a tight seal and the tubes collapse, with most of the CA glue sucked out of the cap.
 
Have you tried using vacuum? I had an opened POR-15 four oz can of rust preventive paint maybe 8 years ago which I put in a glass mason jar, drew a vacuum on the jar which made the POR-15 last around 2 years or so as I remember. The POR-15 lid would pop off because the air inside the can was also evacuated so the jar and POR-15 must be kept upright.

I tried vacuum with opened CA glue which did not work very well since the caps do not form a tight seal and the tubes collapse, with most of the CA glue sucked out of the cap.
This doesn't work with many materials as some of the components will start to boil off, I think CA is one of them as even at room temp you can often see it flashing off and condensing on nearby objects. If I recall 2 part silicone doesn't do this, 1 part might though, urethanes, and epoxies do.

Did the POR-15 jar hold it's vacuum well? I would have assumed the volatile components of it would have evaporated and filled the jar, probably not an issue though assuming the jar isn't too large as some loss of the solvent until equilibrium is made wouldn't effect the material much, probably just make it slightly thicker, and would certainly remove and keep all the moisture out. That and once that occurs the pressure would be high enough to not let any of the polyurethane precursors evaporate, if they even do at room temp and vacuum I don't know.
 
This doesn't work with many materials as some of the components will start to boil off, I think CA is one of them as even at room temp you can often see it flashing off and condensing on nearby objects. If I recall 2 part silicone doesn't do this, 1 part might though, urethanes, and epoxies do.

Did the POR-15 jar hold it's vacuum well? I would have assumed the volatile components of it would have evaporated and filled the jar, probably not an issue though assuming the jar isn't too large as some loss of the solvent until equilibrium is made wouldn't effect the material much, probably just make it slightly thicker, and would certainly remove and keep all the moisture out. That and once that occurs the pressure would be high enough to not let any of the polyurethane precursors evaporate, if they even do at room temp and vacuum I don't know.

Boiling off is an issue with thin glues with solvent.

The Mason jar I used for the POR 15 held vacuum well as I recall. It kept the POR-15 much longer than normal. When sucked down, the center of Mason jar lids will pop and cave in. Here's a Classico spaghetti jar with a polyurethane hose and a shut off valve. Make a clean hole a little smaller dia than the hose in the cap, insert hose in the cap, insert a short rigid section of tubing inside the hose to expand the hose against the lid to make a good seal. Evacuate jar with vac pump. To hold vacuum, bend the hose and crimp it shut with a paper clamp . You can tell if vacuum is lost by looking if the lid lost it's concavity.

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I've wondered the same about tire repair glue/cement glue because sometimes I leave it out in the winter and it freezes, then thaws out and would it be just as good. The place I buy mine from has a big ole tube for like $2.99, but they dont sell anymore the 1" patches which came in like a 50 pack! they only sell the 2 and 3" patches for the bigger applications. I like the smaller tubes of cement glue, but they do dry out easily.

The screw for a cap is a great idea!
I tape the end and make sure the tape folds properly with lots of overlay Duct tape.
 
I also have another drybox for some moisture sensitive additives made from a gamma2 vittles pet food container and I really like it, if you were to buy a container I would highly recommend them. Lots of different sizes, very affordable for their size, solid material, nice gasket, easy to use lid.

You can also buy their lid system in a snap-on unit for "standard" 5-gallon buckets at home improvement stores like Lowes or HomeDepot.
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And it's been a while since I had to, but you can order new gaskets directly from the Gammavault manufacturer, also found on ebay (never tried those), and a quick google for current sources also finds that Mcmaster-Carr has ones that should fit:
1/8 11" #276 McMaster-Carr
or for a tighter fit..
3/16 10.5" #378 McMaster-Carr


Doesn't come with peanut butter filled pretzels though which is a downside.
Mind "come with" kibble...(not when new, but I've used mine for dog food and treats for so long, I didn't even think of using them to store filament in; I'll have to go do that with one of my empty ones now. :)
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You can also buy their lid system in a snap-on unit for "standard" 5-gallon buckets at home improvement stores like Lowes or HomeDepot.
Funny enough I have one of those lids too, capping off a bucket full of resin printing waste chemicals.

For most of the filament I use regularly is in their own "cereal containers" which the best I've found is the "213 fl oz" ones on amazon although the smaller "135.2 fl oz" ones fit some spools as long as you get the containers with grip indents that don't stick in too much. And the 2kg and 3kg spools are in IRIS 22lb dog food bins.
 
I don't think I've ever seen the "cereal" type; just the ones with the screw-in lids (which don't take any significant torque to seal up; on a brand new one I can use a single finger to give it a good seal).

I think all of mine are the buckets (complete units from GV) except for one 50lb unit that's the same as the ones you can sometimes see stacked as cargo containers on Deep Space 9 (ST: DS9; couldn't find a handy image of them there, but this one on Amazon is the same type:
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IIRC they all came to me used when the original users changed them all out for new ones probably like 15 years ago.
 
I've wondered the same about tire repair glue/cement glue because sometimes I leave it out in the winter and it freezes, then thaws out and would it be just as good. The place I buy mine from has a big ole tube for like $2.99, but they dont sell anymore the 1" patches which came in like a 50 pack! they only sell the 2 and 3" patches for the bigger applications. I like the smaller tubes of cement glue, but they do dry out easily.

The screw for a cap is a great idea!
I tape the end and make sure the tape folds properly with lots of overlay Duct tape.
Let us know how the screw for a cap works on your tire repair cement tubes, if you try it. I'm not sure what condition my patch kit is in, have not had to use it for at least 3 years or more. Anyone used this no glue patch kit from Slime? https://www.amazon.com/Slime-20040-SKABS-Pre-Glued-Patches/dp/B0011HVW4E/ref Maybe good to have if it has a long shelf life.
 
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