I did that for an old 1980s car headlight once, on an early version of the trike. (and reused it for a similar style look on the Kia ligth for a short time, but don't need it on that one).
Show me your front light(s)
- Thread starter VelluK
- Start date
Just upgraded my front light recently to the following from Grin:
Roxim X4 Ebike Light
https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/lights/roxim-x4-ebike-light.html
It has StVZO Compliant Optics (German) so it has the proper cut-off to avoid blinding people. Powers off the CA3 extra accessory plug - although I have noticed it sometimes reboots the CA3 when I turn the light on.
This one is nice and compact as well and blends in fairly well with my MTB ebike.
Don't have a pic of it yet, but I found the following test video of the Roxim X4 and some other lights pretty good when researching it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGEOzIF7RI0
There was one or two other more expensive lights like the M99 PRO, but I couldn't justify the cost..
I am pairing this light with my usb chargable 800~ lumen offroad bike light which is usually on flash, along with a less bright wide angle front light set to flash. If I need high-beam I can just turn the offroad light on to steady. I try to turn the flasher off on bike paths etc to avoid blinding fellow pedestrians.
I find a Monkeylectric M232 also helps with side visibility when you ride all year around in the darker winter months.
It's unfortunate that StVZO type optics aren't mandatory for bike lights as it seems like more recently bike lights have gotten brighter, yet without that cut off it is quite dazzling when you're on the receiving end.
Cheers
Roxim X4 Ebike Light
https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/lights/roxim-x4-ebike-light.html
It has StVZO Compliant Optics (German) so it has the proper cut-off to avoid blinding people. Powers off the CA3 extra accessory plug - although I have noticed it sometimes reboots the CA3 when I turn the light on.
This one is nice and compact as well and blends in fairly well with my MTB ebike.
Don't have a pic of it yet, but I found the following test video of the Roxim X4 and some other lights pretty good when researching it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGEOzIF7RI0
There was one or two other more expensive lights like the M99 PRO, but I couldn't justify the cost..
I am pairing this light with my usb chargable 800~ lumen offroad bike light which is usually on flash, along with a less bright wide angle front light set to flash. If I need high-beam I can just turn the offroad light on to steady. I try to turn the flasher off on bike paths etc to avoid blinding fellow pedestrians.
I find a Monkeylectric M232 also helps with side visibility when you ride all year around in the darker winter months.
It's unfortunate that StVZO type optics aren't mandatory for bike lights as it seems like more recently bike lights have gotten brighter, yet without that cut off it is quite dazzling when you're on the receiving end.
Cheers
district9prawn
1 kW
jPas said:
I've been using that Roxim one for about two years now. Not the brightest light out there but a very sensible output for urban riding.
Alan B
100 GW
How do you like the light pattern? Does it do a good job for you in fully dark situations at say 28 mph?
Would a second one (800 lumens total) help?
Would a second one (800 lumens total) help?
district9prawn
1 kW
Alan B said:
In complete darkness I'm not confident I could avoid all potholes etc at 28mph. More comfortable at 20 mph. Similar situation for off road. I'm sure a second light would do the trick.
When I need more light I use a helmet one that I can point around.
Alan B
100 GW
One or two of the 1000 lumen LED headlights without the line would make good high beam and offroad lights, these patterned lights are really optimized for low beam type performance.
cooking monkey
100 mW
My current front lights have two parts:
My primary is a 20W motorcycle "passing light" as the main headlight. Fully weather proof and tuned optics makes beam just right for riding on the streets. This 20W light accepts up amazingly wide 12VDC to 80VDC input range so switch it directly off my bike's 18s 75V battery via a relay.
My secondary front light is a 12VDC 5W beam style DRL light with crystal white sharp piercing omnidirectional light. You can get this on eBay for a few dollars literally for a pair of them. I consider my DRL an absolute necessity for both day and night riding. I always have it on and never without it! Recently, I completed a project to add a "random flicker" to my DRL to increase conspicuousness even more. I used a $4 Arduino microcontroller with some of my own simple code combined with a MOSFET to allow the Arduino's low 5VDC digital signal to modulate the 12VDC DRL. It works wonders!
My own experience is that a "random" flicker is more noticeable than a common fixed sequential pattern. A fixed sequential pattern can induce target fixation which is a criticism leveled against the commercial motorcycle light modulators. I agree. Therefore, I chose to implement algorithm that flickers the LED randomly like a candle in the breeze. The algorithm also includes a small chance that the DRL will turn off briefly for some 100ms to 150ms (also randomized) like its a "wink" which helps to break target fixation. The Arduino customized solution allows me to implement an infinite combination of patterns and I will end up playing with different patterns at anytime later.
I'm planning to add a photosensor that will allow the Arduino to adjust the DRL flickering pattern based on ambient or oncoming light. Also, I will add a momentary switch will will "burst" the light with a constant "high alert" pattern for some 7 seconds. I will hit this momentary switch whenever I'm approaching a situation where I feel the other drivers may not notice me approaching. Such as cars pulling out of a parking lot, cars I feel are going to cut me off in a traffic lane, cars with an inattentive driver texting at a green light, etc.
Street riding views from a GoPro Hero 7:
My primary is a 20W motorcycle "passing light" as the main headlight. Fully weather proof and tuned optics makes beam just right for riding on the streets. This 20W light accepts up amazingly wide 12VDC to 80VDC input range so switch it directly off my bike's 18s 75V battery via a relay.
My secondary front light is a 12VDC 5W beam style DRL light with crystal white sharp piercing omnidirectional light. You can get this on eBay for a few dollars literally for a pair of them. I consider my DRL an absolute necessity for both day and night riding. I always have it on and never without it! Recently, I completed a project to add a "random flicker" to my DRL to increase conspicuousness even more. I used a $4 Arduino microcontroller with some of my own simple code combined with a MOSFET to allow the Arduino's low 5VDC digital signal to modulate the 12VDC DRL. It works wonders!
My own experience is that a "random" flicker is more noticeable than a common fixed sequential pattern. A fixed sequential pattern can induce target fixation which is a criticism leveled against the commercial motorcycle light modulators. I agree. Therefore, I chose to implement algorithm that flickers the LED randomly like a candle in the breeze. The algorithm also includes a small chance that the DRL will turn off briefly for some 100ms to 150ms (also randomized) like its a "wink" which helps to break target fixation. The Arduino customized solution allows me to implement an infinite combination of patterns and I will end up playing with different patterns at anytime later.
I'm planning to add a photosensor that will allow the Arduino to adjust the DRL flickering pattern based on ambient or oncoming light. Also, I will add a momentary switch will will "burst" the light with a constant "high alert" pattern for some 7 seconds. I will hit this momentary switch whenever I'm approaching a situation where I feel the other drivers may not notice me approaching. Such as cars pulling out of a parking lot, cars I feel are going to cut me off in a traffic lane, cars with an inattentive driver texting at a green light, etc.
Street riding views from a GoPro Hero 7:
MikeSSS
1 kW
Great thread, the info about anti-glare cutoff is very valuable.
My Cygolite has been very good but oncoming traffic is bothered by it. Fenix bike lights have the top of the beam cutoff feature, a Fenix will be my next light.
Thanks to all who posted in this thread.
Mike S
My Cygolite has been very good but oncoming traffic is bothered by it. Fenix bike lights have the top of the beam cutoff feature, a Fenix will be my next light.
Thanks to all who posted in this thread.
Mike S
aroundqube
10 kW
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2012
- Messages
- 577
8v to 48V , high low switch , 80 / 120 LUX , 25 K/ph ? https://www.bumm.de/en/products/e-bike-beleuchtung/parent/168/produkt/168ru65-01.html?LeftieBiker said:
LeftieBiker
100 kW
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2012
- Messages
- 1,107
aroundqube said:
That looks great, but with an upper cutoff of 48 volts, my "48 volt" bike, with a typical voltage of 47-54.5 volts, would damage it unless the battery was low... This would be great for 24 and 36 volt bikes.
matmaxgeds
100 mW
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2016
- Messages
- 42
Next light up in their range is up to 60v, 150 lux, and with beam cutoff but expensive (although with deals can find down to €90 sometimes): https://www.bumm.de/en/products/e-bike-beleuchtung/parent/164/produkt/164r60ts7-01.html?
LeftieBiker
100 kW
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2012
- Messages
- 1,107
matmaxgeds said:
<Sigh> and that one is essentially a spot light. Oh well, thanks for trying.
matmaxgeds
100 mW
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2016
- Messages
- 42
These are lower power but claim a beam cut-off and up to 60v. Anyone tried one? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32995200889.html
wturber
1 MW
LeftieBiker said:
Step down converters are small and inexpensive. They open up a wide range of 12v (or other voltage) options.
LeftieBiker said:
I don't think you appreciate how good the beam is on those. Busch und Mueller lights are too expensive for me, but their beam pattern is the best I've seen. Better than anything I've had on a motorcycle.
I've used both Fresnel overlays and sanding the lens face to broaden and soften the beam of a really spotlight-like LED before. So even those can be useful if the price and performance are right.
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