Stealth FUTR owners builds and pics

[Hyena]

Surely a firmware tweak would fix it ?
They work fine on sabvoton controllers and barely any different in construction to every other hub out there so I find it hard to believe they're just "not compatible with sinewave controllers" as adaptto suggested.

Re: using higher powered controllers, remember the beta frames aren't designed for taking massive power. They were originally intended for geared motors and smaller DD hub applications - only a few kw. The power an adaptto max e could deliver to a mxus 3k could potentially chew up the dropouts I reckon.

Here's another pic of my first build. This is using a 35mm leaf style motor

 

[Allex]

The display looks huuuge on that frame. Hm it actually looks better without sidecovers...
Are you runing mini-e? that would be around 3-4kW on that Leaf?

Firmware will not fix this, they need to redo the hardware to make it work I guess it depends on the magnet width and angled stator, like on 5403, also some Xlytes sometimes use magnets that are much wider that the stator tooths, all in all its a combinations of lots of things why they are not compatible.

What spring is on that FOX, and what lenght, 222mm?

 

[Hyena]

The display looks huuuge on that frame. Hm it actually looks better without sidecovers...

I may move the display to the top of the frame yet. I want to minimize the outward appearance of the bike as much as possible, which means not having the handlebars cluttered in electronics. But yeah it's puts things into perspective doesn't it
I may even experiment with a simple frame mounted LED display like THIS.
As a more entry level bike for people aren't too fussed with high power or a bunch of tech parameters this would save a heap.
Unfortunately the rest of the bike (frame, suspension, front wheel etc) is still a significant cost.

I prefer the look without sidecovers too but unfortunately with the internal bracing etc it's very difficult to make work in terms of internal battery padding etc. I'm working on something to replicate that look replicating the look of the frame 'skeleton'
Here's a quick photoshop, I reckon this looks heaps better.

Are you runing mini-e? that would be around 3-4kW on that Leaf?

Probably mini yeah. That'll be plenty of power for this motor. Currently I have a 20ah 20S multistar pack made up but I may even drop it to 18S. That'll be fast enough with the OVS that the adaptto offers. I'm waiting on delivery of a sample cheaper chinese sinewave controller and display and see how it compares. 3-4kw from a 12 fet 4110 should be cheap and reliable.

Firmware will not fix this, they need to redo the hardware to make it work I guess it depends on the magnet width and angled stator, like on 5403, also some Xlytes sometimes use magnets that are much wider that the stator tooths, all in all its a combinations of lots of things why they are not compatible.

Bugger. I hadnt noticed the magnets but the stator is not angled, it's straight the same as the H40, which works. Ah well.

What spring is on that FOX, and what lenght, 222mm?

It's actually not ideal and I will swap it out shortly. I basically assembled it with what I had so I can get it rolling and take some promo pics so people know what they are!
It's a DHX5 which is 420mm and it's running a 450lb spring. 400lb and 220mm would be more suitable. The front forks are also only 140mm so on the shorter side. I think it was designed with an intended 160mm front fork and 220mm rear shock.

 

[Allex]

Wow, talk about facelift with the photoshop. This is how they should have done it from the factory. I guess side covers are Alu. Think I will cut holes in them and do fake carbon inserts ala stealth bikes have. Thi will bring som depth into the frame.
420mm? The back geometry looks right to me from the pictures, with shorter shock the swingarm sag would probably be more?

 

[Hyena]

Doh, I meant 240mm. Those shocks are good for dyslexics
Yep side covers and the bottom door is Aluminium. The geometry isnt too far off but I'd rather be sitting lower than higher anyway on a more nimble bike like this.

 

[SUNDRIVE]

Well, I bet you low seat post contributes to great handling. Seems like the lower I go on my bikes, the better they work handling wise. Of course I have known this, my point is, I always compromise with a minimum seat height for pedal assist at the price of handling. Not the case on my next build though.

Rix I am fitting a Lev dropper post to my FLX Alpha, the extra weight is not an issue and it should allow full leg extension for open road pedalling or drop it right down for technical riding. The actuating cable attaches to a lever at the bottom of the seat post on this model, so I might have a little trouble squeezing this past the rear shock reservoir, I'll take some photos when sorted. They come in a few sizes re overall length and travel, I think mine was 335mm and 100mm travel, but I'll check it.

 

[Rix]

Well, I bet you low seat post contributes to great handling. Seems like the lower I go on my bikes, the better they work handling wise. Of course I have known this, my point is, I always compromise with a minimum seat height for pedal assist at the price of handling. Not the case on my next build though.

Rix I am fitting a Lev dropper post to my FLX Alpha, the extra weight is not an issue and it should allow full leg extension for open road pedalling or drop it right down for technical riding. The actuating cable attaches to a lever at the bottom of the seat post on this model, so I might have a little trouble squeezing this past the rear shock reservoir, I'll take some photos when sorted. They come in a few sizes re overall length and travel, I think mine was 335mm and 100mm travel, but I'll check it.

Sweet, I can't recall for certain, but I think Kepler added a dropper as well. Best of all worlds.

 

[Rix]

The display looks huuuge on that frame. Hm it actually looks better without sidecovers...

I may move the display to the top of the frame yet. I want to minimize the outward appearance of the bike as much as possible, which means not having the handlebars cluttered in electronics. But yeah it's puts things into perspective doesn't it
I may even experiment with a simple frame mounted LED display like THIS.
As a more entry level bike for people aren't too fussed with high power or a bunch of tech parameters this would save a heap.
Unfortunately the rest of the bike (frame, suspension, front wheel etc) is still a significant cost.

I prefer the look without sidecovers too but unfortunately with the internal bracing etc it's very difficult to make work in terms of internal battery padding etc. I'm working on something to replicate that look replicating the look of the frame 'skeleton'
Here's a quick photoshop, I reckon this looks heaps better.

Are you runing mini-e? that would be around 3-4kW on that Leaf?

Probably mini yeah. That'll be plenty of power for this motor. Currently I have a 20ah 20S multistar pack made up but I may even drop it to 18S. That'll be fast enough with the OVS that the adaptto offers. I'm waiting on delivery of a sample cheaper chinese sinewave controller and display and see how it compares. 3-4kw from a 12 fet 4110 should be cheap and reliable.

Firmware will not fix this, they need to redo the hardware to make it work I guess it depends on the magnet width and angled stator, like on 5403, also some Xlytes sometimes use magnets that are much wider that the stator tooths, all in all its a combinations of lots of things why they are not compatible.

Bugger. I hadnt noticed the magnets but the stator is not angled, it's straight the same as the H40, which works. Ah well.

What spring is on that FOX, and what lenght, 222mm?

It's actually not ideal and I will swap it out shortly. I basically assembled it with what I had so I can get it rolling and take some promo pics so people know what they are!
It's a DHX5 which is 420mm and it's running a 450lb spring. 400lb and 220mm would be more suitable. The front forks are also only 140mm so on the shorter side. I think it was designed with an intended 160mm front fork and 220mm rear shock.

Really nice looking ride Jay, the perfect concealable Ebike. Not as ghost as Keplers home built, but in the ball park.

 

[Rodney64]

The display looks huuuge on that frame. Hm it actually looks better without sidecovers...

I may move the display to the top of the frame yet. I want to minimize the outward appearance of the bike as much as possible, which means not having the handlebars cluttered in electronics. But yeah it's puts things into perspective doesn't it
I may even experiment with a simple frame mounted LED display like THIS.
As a more entry level bike for people aren't too fussed with high power or a bunch of tech parameters this would save a heap.
Unfortunately the rest of the bike (frame, suspension, front wheel etc) is still a significant cost.

I prefer the look without sidecovers too but unfortunately with the internal bracing etc it's very difficult to make work in terms of internal battery padding etc. I'm working on something to replicate that look replicating the look of the frame 'skeleton'
Here's a quick photoshop, I reckon this looks heaps better.

Are you runing mini-e? that would be around 3-4kW on that Leaf?

Probably mini yeah. That'll be plenty of power for this motor. Currently I have a 20ah 20S multistar pack made up but I may even drop it to 18S. That'll be fast enough with the OVS that the adaptto offers. I'm waiting on delivery of a sample cheaper chinese sinewave controller and display and see how it compares. 3-4kw from a 12 fet 4110 should be cheap and reliable.

Firmware will not fix this, they need to redo the hardware to make it work I guess it depends on the magnet width and angled stator, like on 5403, also some Xlytes sometimes use magnets that are much wider that the stator tooths, all in all its a combinations of lots of things why they are not compatible.

Bugger. I hadnt noticed the magnets but the stator is not angled, it's straight the same as the H40, which works. Ah well.

What spring is on that FOX, and what lenght, 222mm?

It's actually not ideal and I will swap it out shortly. I basically assembled it with what I had so I can get it rolling and take some promo pics so people know what they are!
It's a DHX5 which is 420mm and it's running a 450lb spring. 400lb and 220mm would be more suitable. The front forks are also only 140mm so on the shorter side. I think it was designed with an intended 160mm front fork and 220mm rear shock.

Really nice looking ride Jay, the perfect concealable Ebike. Not as ghost as Keplers home built, but in the ball park.

It does look nice Jay.

How much room left between the tyre and the swing arm. I acquired 2 4080,s laced into 700 rim do you think will fit.

 

[Samd]

Sold my alpha on the weekend. Guy is packing it with multistars for a 60km daily round trip. So I got to keep my battery. And my schlumpf. Time to drop it in the beta frame. Can't decide whether to run 28mm Mxus or a regular 45mm. Nice to have options. Got a new field orientation controller to test. Think it'll be a nice match.

 

[Samd]

She's off.

 

[Lurkin]

With the exception of the adaptto screen and hub motor, could definitely pass as a regular bicycle...

 

[Hyena]

How much room left between the tyre and the swing arm. I acquired 2 4080,s laced into 700 rim do you think will fit.

You might be out of luck Rod. I'm running a 26x2.5" tyre and it JUST fits. I think you'd be out of luck with a 700 unless it's running a low profile slick tyre.

That's a fine looking Alpha Sambo. I'm sure the new owner will be pleased with it. Is he here on ES ?

 

[Rix]

How much room left between the tyre and the swing arm. I acquired 2 4080,s laced into 700 rim do you think will fit.

You might be out of luck Rod. I'm running a 26x2.5" tyre and it JUST fits. I think you'd be out of luck with a 700 unless it's running a low profile slick tyre.

That's a fine looking Alpha Sambo. I'm sure the new owner will be pleased with it. Is he here on ES ?

What Jay said, a nice looking Alpha.

 

[Hyena]

Multistar mayhem. 20S 32ah. A bit of necessary padding and she'll fit like a glove
No room for an internal controller, it'll have to be an external for this one. Adaptto max e, naturally

 

[greg_p]

Just for my curiosity, which kind of multistar do you get to have 20s 32ah? you get 2//(2x6s+2x4s packs in serie)?

 

[Rix]

Multistar mayhem. 20S 32ah. A bit of necessary padding and she'll fit like a glove
No room for an internal controller, it'll have to be an external for this one. Adaptto max e, naturally

Like they were made for the frame. Hurry up and get that going.

 

[Hyena]

Just for my curiosity, which kind of multistar do you get to have 20s 32ah? you get 2//(2x6s+2x4s packs in serie)?

Your maths are slightly off but yes 6S and 4S side by side just fits in the width of the frame, then they're stacked 2 long, 2 high.
You could also go 20S 16ah as a flat row along the bottom and then put a big controller on top, internally. I DO like internal controllers generally.
If these multistars genuinely were 10C as claimed you could get away with 16ah for high power but they're not really. More like 5C and <100A ain't gonna cut it.
A 32ah pack though will be barely running 2C most of the time and rarely spike near 5C so they should run pretty happy.

Like they were made for the frame. Hurry up and get that going.

On it boss!
I ideally wanted this made up for the easter break but I'm going to have to get my skates on.

 

[Lash]

My battery build is coming along nicely. I have the 2 layers done ready for connecting and flipping up and over to make 18s10p. But before that I need to run the copper series rails using 2mm copper wire I have. I also need to do the end bars to attach wires + and - wires(10AWG). Will do some tests soon to see how I go soldering copper wire to nickel strip quickly, so i dont overheat cells.

I am using tape to cover the nickel strip to avoid any mishaps while under construction. I have only had one little accident so far when i slipped with the probe and hit go on the pulse weld shorting a battery cell for a moment. lucky this was when doing a parallel pack on its own, so i think it only sparked the energy of one cell. Still gave me a fright. I was much more careful after that, and dread the thought of cocking it up on a fully connected pack. I replaced the cell with a spare, but think it was okay anyway, still showing 3.6x volts.

After that I need to do my balance wires, I have connectors on their way from china to match the adaptto BMS, which should make those connections easier.

Big thanks to 9lives for the lend of the spot welder and advice, it has been fantastic and produces solid welds easily.

measuring 340mm as is now, I hope it can fit in the flux without too much persuasion.

Cheers, Lash.

 

[Rix]

Your maths are slightly off but yes 6S and 4S side by side just fits in the width of the frame, then they're stacked 2 long, 2 high.
You could also go 20S 16ah as a flat row along the bottom and then put a big controller on top, internally. I DO like internal controllers generally.
If these multistars genuinely were 10C as claimed you could get away with 16ah for high power but they're not really. More like 5C and <100A ain't gonna cut it.
A 32ah pack though will be barely running 2C most of the time and rarely spike near 5C so they should run pretty happy.

Like they were made for the frame. Hurry up and get that going.[/
On it boss!
I ideally wanted this made up for the easter break but I'm going to have to get my skates on.

Yah, 32ah bursting 5C is like 160amps, and if you have your phase/DC ration at 4-1, then looking at 640 Phase Amps , that will wake you up faster than a taser shot to the nuts man. I am feeling it ///Edit, should be warned that your phase wires would smoke quickly though.

 

[Allex]

My beta is rising slowly.
Shock spacing looks like 20mm but mine was around 19,3 and 19,9mm where the welding is.
Took 19mm mounting kit for the shock, it has a bit of play but once you tighten, it is perfect.
Used 400lbs spring, but it feel damn hard, but we will se once I have the wheels on!


Used silicone when mounting seat triangle, this keeps the water and dust away from the tiny gaps - no rust.

 

[USAEBIKECO]

Cool bike. Well done with the design.

 

[Rix]

Allex, what did you end up with for spacers?

 

[Rix]

My battery build is coming along nicely. I have the 2 layers done ready for connecting and flipping up and over to make 18s10p. But before that I need to run the copper series rails using 2mm copper wire I have. I also need to do the end bars to attach wires + and - wires(10AWG). Will do some tests soon to see how I go soldering copper wire to nickel strip quickly, so i dont overheat cells.

I am using tape to cover the nickel strip to avoid any mishaps while under construction. I have only had one little accident so far when i slipped with the probe and hit go on the pulse weld shorting a battery cell for a moment. lucky this was when doing a parallel pack on its own, so i think it only sparked the energy of one cell. Still gave me a fright. I was much more careful after that, and dread the thought of cocking it up on a fully connected pack. I replaced the cell with a spare, but think it was okay anyway, still showing 3.6x volts.

After that I need to do my balance wires, I have connectors on their way from china to match the adaptto BMS, which should make those connections easier.

Big thanks to 9lives for the lend of the spot welder and advice, it has been fantastic and produces solid welds easily.

measuring 340mm as is now, I hope it can fit in the flux without too much persuasion.

Cheers, Lash.

Awesome battery Lash, is that for a Flux Alpha?

 

[Allex]

Rick, I went with M8 x 19.0mm next step is M8 x 21.8mm and it is way to wide.
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=19939