Super Soco Tc Max + 72v 132ah LG66Ah + Far ND72530 controller tuning problem

Prestige

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Oct 2, 2021
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Hello and welcome

I am currently processing Super Soco Tc Max with a 72v 132Ah battery on Lg 66ah 2p cells and a Far ND72530 controller and I have a problem with its setting. This is my first project like this and it's hard to understand all these settings. The engine is a copy of the qs 138. Below are photos of the settings. If anyone knows about these drivers, I will be very grateful for help.

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hello, so obviously, starting from the beginning, I don't know how to set:

-ECOaccCoeff
-Week Character
-Response Week
-Trottle dec steppe
-Trottle acc step

and all tab "PID PARAS"
 

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Yours look different than mine, you have more settings. I think in the eco settings there is just one that "works" if you set something else it hardly moves, is it 8 maybe? Weak character I have only kept in fast, so I dont really know what the the other alternatives do. I dont think I have the response setting.
I dont have a deceleration setting, but I think I would set it to max. But you have to test what you like. same for throttle acc, I have max (224).
I think lower ki/kp gives less overshoot if you have an overcurrent problem.
Read the manual, the fardriver thread and there are some discussions in my and dougf build threads.
 
Ok, thank you for your answer. I just read that it's best to set the throttle to eco and then this ECOaccCoeff then its change works.
 
I have a question, should I do the self-learning on the engine itself or with a wheel and chain?
 
I have already connected everything and the electronics works but I do not have the speed on the counter, two wires 485A and 485B fly to the counter and they are responsible for the speed, it is supposedly some RS485 serial communication, in the previous sur-ron motorcycle it was enough to connect the speed to the yellow hall sensor but here it is analog tip and I have no idea how to connect it :)
 
?? Have you completed “Auto Learn” ??

I did have two Fardriver controllers that did not have a working buzzer. One somehow just started working correctly. The other did not self initiate “Auto Learn” nor did it complete the task, so I ask Ivchao at Fardriver via email.

Ivchao said:

to me
Feb 7Details
The rear wheels go up in the air[requiring this action suggests chain is on], the throttle turns to the bottom, the controller turns forward and reverses itself, then stops, and autolearn is done

If you do not have a temp sensor, you must set that param to “0” to begin auto learn.

After completing auto learn you can then ride the bike. If you then change any parameters and want to keep them you must tap “save”.
 
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Exactly as Ivchao wrote you, everything works for me. Only I did the self-study once without a wheel and a chain and then with a wheel because in my opinion it's better that it has a motor, it's a natural load with a wheel and chain. If something is wrong, check the wires, etc
 
Today I will receive the Ct-22 meter and I have a question for you, in this diagram the connection is typically to the main plus. In previous motorcycles I had only 12v and I'm afraid to burn something :) I understand that this meter gives the voltage and range after the main plus 72v, I have a 20S battery? Regards
 

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everything is ok today I drove the first kilometers and I have a problem only with power consumption, the controller is set to max and the bms shows max consumption only 150A I'm uploading photos from the settings, my friend says it can be a rubber shifter and he would like to play with these settings
 

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Hello, after changing the shifter mode to sport, it probably consumes max, I managed to download 215A at the start but I did not unscrew it to the max due to poor weather :) I also measured the sag and it seems very small for these conditions and the battery was charged to 40 %. I want to set it typically for a route of 100 km / h and the question is how to best match the speed to the speed? currently at 3500 rpm it has 75 km / h with gps with the rear sprocket 56 teeth, I think I will put a little smaller so that at these nominal revolutions and these 100 km/h it has the lowest energy consumption.
 

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Wow 15kkw on this small and light motorcycle.

I hope I soon get installed my ND72680.
At the moment I'm driving a Sabvoton SVMC72150 with 175A DC-current in my 180kg scooter, but the sabvoton has not enough phase amps (350pA) for a good and fast start.
Voltage sag @175A with my 21S 7,7kwh battery is at 20C 2,2V ,at 15C 3V and at 10C 4V. The sag is nearly constant between 20-95% SOC.

I'm aiming for peaks around 250Adc where my battery will sag around 3V

Where did you buy the LG cells?
I'm planing to build a supermoto with 28S2P LG cells, aiming for 40kW peak.
 
Yes, 15kW is already impressive with a weight of 120 kg, but this is the current from the battery, so the power at the phase current will certainly be higher around 300A, so around 20kW. The FAR controller will work better for sure, Sabvotons are very emergency and more suitable for bicycles, not motorcycles. What battery do you have? from what cells?
 
Motor-phase current is higher but power at the motor is lower than the DC-Power.

I have 21S5P battery pack made from Cenat 20Ah power pouch cells. The psck is big and heavy 70lg but the cells were for free and can deliever 8C (800A).
 

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I understand, so the power must be calculated from the voltage and current from the battery? Well, the battery is specific :) Will you show a photo of the equipment or is it not ready yet?
 
You can also calculate power with the phase current, but therefore you have to know the voltage at the motor phase. The voltage is depending on the revs per minute. At low revs xou have high phase amps. At high revs you have high voltages but low current at the motor phase.

My scooter made already 9000km since it was rebuild
 

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Nice machine, the motor in the wheel at high power supposedly heats up but it is certainly very quiet, maintenance-free and consumes little energy
 
I've already done 300km and everything is fine except one. When the handle is unscrewed to the max, the engine starts to vibrate strangely, as if it was getting lost at a large phase current. What can you do about it? it is rare to start like this to the max but I don't want to burn it :) A friend said that it may be the fault of the hall sensors of the wrong reading angle.The engine is a copy of the qs 138
 

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