Tallahau electric longboard build

[Tallahau]

Been lurking here for a while trying to gather enough information to build my own electric longboard, I think I've gathered enough now but before I order everything I just want to make sure I've not misunderstood something.

The parts I'm planning to use are:
Engine: Single Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 6354 215kv or Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 6364 213 kv
ESC: HobbyKing 150A High performance brushless car ESC
Gears: 14T to 40T with 15mm belt
Tx/Rx: Quanum 2 4Ghz Pistol Grip TxRx
Trucks: 10" Caliber 50° trucks
Wheels: 83mm ABEC 11 Flywheels
Battery: 2x ZIPPY Compact 5000mAh 3S 25C Lipo Pack

My goal is to have a board that can reach with a 80kg (175 pound) dude on it around 25-30 km/h. Am I overshooting it with engines and ESC or is it a reasonable choice? Could I downsize to a 50mm engine and a less powerful ESC and get the same results?

My calculations based on the chosen hardware is that I will reach around 22 km/h (13 mph) but based on others experience that might be a bit slow based on the engine/ESC. A important thing is that I can go pretty far, I rather have a board that can travel far rather than fast. Is it possible to change anything other than the battery to do so?

And lastly, the ESC is it just to connect it to the Rx and start it all up or do I need to configure them a lot before I can start to roll?

Any input on this is very appreciated and as soon as I'll get the parts I will document and show the build here on the forum.

 

[torqueboards]

That setup looks great. Mine is pretty similar with 6S. I found that 14/40T only seems to give me a top speed of about 14-16mph. I use 20T/40T and seems I'm able to hit about 18-22mph which is more around my speed. I don't like to feel limited to about 14mph it's pretty slow.

I probably wouldn't bother with downsizing. If you are going flat ground, you could downsize but if your going up hills I wouldn't short change it.

To travel farther it's more about how you ride than anything else - same as a car (how you drive). I would suggest getting other packs to swap and/or a bigger pack.

ESC you will need to configure. I suggest getting the programming card as it's easier to configure versus listening to beeps.

Looks great either way. Also checkout the Wiiceiver in my signature - the controller is a lot smaller. It's been working great so far and no issues.

 

[beto_pty]

The hobbyking ESC cannot be remote-beeped only card programed and the original setup isnt good for eboarding.. so save yourself 2 weeks wait (in my case) and get the program card.
You might need to increase timing, as it cogs at higher speeds, play with the initial and final brake pèrcentage and change drive setup to forward with brake, as well as eliminate drag brake..I like super slow accelaration as it feels much more controlled and will probably save you some "gas"

At 80 kgs you will have a sufficiently torquey setup there, should be fine and give you good range (however the tradeoff is that it will be quite slow)
good luck and post some pics

 

[torqueboards]

Thanks beto. Didn't know the HK one was only by card.

 

[Tallahau]

The hobbyking ESC cannot be remote-beeped only card programed and the original setup isnt good for eboarding.. so save yourself 2 weeks wait (in my case) and get the program card.
You might need to increase timing, as it cogs at higher speeds, play with the initial and final brake pèrcentage and change drive setup to forward with brake, as well as eliminate drag brake..I like super slow accelaration as it feels much more controlled and will probably save you some "gas"

At 80 kgs you will have a sufficiently torquey setup there, should be fine and give you good range (however the tradeoff is that it will be quite slow)
good luck and post some pics

Great thanks I'll buy the programmer too so I don't get stuck.

A general question regarding the ESC, will it load the batteries if I'm going downhill or will the energy be wasted through heat or something?

I was looking at the size of it all once more and noted that ESC is pretty damn big, it is 4cm tall and will stick pretty far out under the board...Is there any other similar ESC that has some smaller dimensions that you/anyone know of?

 

[torqueboards]

You can remove the fan. Usually, people put it closer to the end of the board by the trucks and the height wouldn't matter as much.

 

[Tallahau]

You can remove the fan. Usually, people put it closer to the end of the board by the trucks and the height wouldn't matter as much.

Really? Won't the ESC get overheated?

Are boat ESC still good alternatives or should the focus be on car ESC?

 

[torqueboards]

You can remove the fan. Usually, people put it closer to the end of the board by the trucks and the height wouldn't matter as much.

Really? Won't the ESC get overheated?

Are boat ESC still good alternatives or should the focus be on car ESC?

Probably be best to test it just to make sure but it's an option but most of us don't use any fans although we have much bigger heatsinks on our escs.

Boat ESC's seem to be a hit and miss. Some people make them work and others don't. I probably would suggest going with the car ESC to prevent future problems and for reliability factor. It isn't much cheaper if you end up having to buy a car esc after already buying a boat esc.

 

[Tallahau]

You can remove the fan. Usually, people put it closer to the end of the board by the trucks and the height wouldn't matter as much.

Really? Won't the ESC get overheated?

Are boat ESC still good alternatives or should the focus be on car ESC?

Probably be best to test it just to make sure but it's an option but most of us don't use any fans although we have much bigger heatsinks on our escs.

Boat ESC's seem to be a hit and miss. Some people make them work and others don't. I probably would suggest going with the car ESC to prevent future problems and for reliability factor. It isn't much cheaper if you end up having to buy a car esc after already buying a boat esc.

Yeah then I might as well just go with the car ESC to save myself some headache. I still haven't solved the gear/belt part yet, buying standard pulleys/cog-wheels and drilling to make it fit seems like a nightmare, so I'm trying to find pre-made wheels but it's almost as difficult.

 

[torqueboards]

Currently, there is beetbocks (aliendrivesystems.com) and onloop (enertionboards.com) that sell a bolt on kit with pulleys for the caliber trucks.

I sell a cheaper version which is a welded motor mount setup $225 for a single kit (mounts, trucks, wheels, pulley system) as you seem to be using caliber mounts their kits should help make it a more plug and play solution.

 

[Tallahau]

Currently, there is beetbocks (aliendrivesystems.com) and onloop (enertionboards.com) that sell a bolt on kit with pulleys for the caliber trucks.

I sell a cheaper version which is a welded motor mount setup $225 for a single kit (mounts, trucks, wheels, pulley system) as you seem to be using caliber mounts their kits should help make it a more plug and play solution.

The mount is no problem, already fixed that. Just looking for a cog-wheel/pulley for the Abec11 wheel. Something like:

but with a specified belt width and amount of teeth. Do you sell that too perhaps?

 

[torqueboards]

Check my guide here - http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=56375. The simplest way would be to just buy your own set of pulleys from sdp-si.com and mount it onto your wheel yourself and/or that pulley there. You can also use the sdp-si.com center distance calculator.

 

[Tallahau]

My lack of mechanical skills are really starting to show now. If I want to maximize the range, does it matter which type of engine I use or simply how I use it? And should I choose gears regarding if I want power or range too?

 

[RomeoEG]

My lack of mechanical skills are really starting to show now. If I want to maximize the range, does it matter which type of engine I use or simply how I use it? And should I choose gears regarding if I want power or range too?

Two comparable motors (ie. two 63mm, 3kw, 170kv) from different brands will have very similar power draw, and thus will get you very similar range. A single motor will draw less current and therefore extend your range, but you lose some hill climbing ability and braking ability when you go one motor versus two (of course you can still climb hills and brake with one motor, but not as well.) Gearing definitely effects range. How you gear it will depend on which motor(s) you choose, but in general you can choose between gearing it 'low' i.e. 1:4 ratio for great low end torque, but sacrifice some top end speed, or vice verse 1:2 ratio will will give you higher top end speed, but less torque. With a single motor, especially single 50mm, if you decide to go that route, I think you'll want to gear it low (1:4, 1:3ish). The lower kv 63mm motors you can gear up a bit (1:3 or 1:2) because the motors inherently provide more torque; 63mm 170kv vs 50mm 245kv or 270kv.

Hope that helps.

 

[Tallahau]

Two comparable motors (ie. two 63mm, 3kw, 170kv) from different brands will have very similar power draw, and thus will get you very similar range. A single motor will draw less current and therefore extend your range, but you lose some hill climbing ability and braking ability when you go one motor versus two (of course you can still climb hills and brake with one motor, but not as well.) Gearing definitely effects range. How you gear it will depend on which motor(s) you choose, but in general you can choose between gearing it 'low' i.e. 1:4 ratio for great low end torque, but sacrifice some top end speed, or vice verse 1:2 ratio will will give you higher top end speed, but less torque. With a single motor, especially single 50mm, if you decide to go that route, I think you'll want to gear it low (1:4, 1:3ish). The lower kv 63mm motors you can gear up a bit (1:3 or 1:2) because the motors inherently provide more torque; 63mm 170kv vs 50mm 245kv or 270kv.

Hope that helps.

So the gearing also effect the power consumption and not just torque/speed? I mean doesn't it all comes down to how much effect the engine uses over a certain time + heat from ESC, batterys etc (perhaps that is not a big factor).

 

[RomeoEG]

if you spend the majority of your time at 25-30km/h 1:2 or 1:3 gearing will require less energy to do that than 1:4, but there are a number of considerations.. your body weight, the terrain, how many hills, what grade of hills, what gearing matches the motors you're using in terms of kv

 

[torqueboards]

The best distance you will get is with a 1:1 gearing ratio. But don't use it as you wouldn't have any torque at that gearing. I personally, wouldn't worry too much about your range and go with the average miles per pack. I use a 1:2 gearing ratio which seems to work great for climbing hills in San Francisco. I don't think you need more torque as I'm about 170 a bit more with a backpack and have had a 230lb friend climb up the hills in SF. He himself was pretty shocked at how fast it goes.

It is what it is and the distance and power it needs to get you there is inevitable. The miles you try and save wouldn't make a whole lot of difference. You'll save maybe 1 or 2 miles not 5 or 10 miles in range. That's more dependent on your terrain and acceleration style and braking style. If you want more miles -- kick most of the time.

 

[psychotiller]

+1

 

[Tallahau]

Thanks guys for all the answers! I finally ordered all I need and in the end this is what I got:

Trucks: 50 Caliber 10"
Wheels: Abec 11 83mm 81a
Bearings: Independent 7s Abec 7
Mount/Gear: Aliendrive 15T/32T
Deck: Old Talawa until eBay finds me a better

Engine: 6374 Outrunner brushless motor 170KV 3000W
ESC: HK T 150A High performance Brushless Car ESC
Battery: 2 x 2 in series ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 3S1P 20C (Total 10 Ah split in two packs)
Tx/Rx: Quanum Pistol Grip
Case: https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~eu_en/elfa/init.do?item=10-480-17&toc=0&q=10-480-17

All and all it added up to 800 USD including everything written above besides the deck. Shipping to Sweden isn't cheap though...of those 800 USD almost 150 USD is only shipping costs from buying from multiple stores and sometimes multiple stocks (HK European/International stock). But I also didn't choose the cheapest parts. If I'm going to build a electric longboard I might as well built a good one that can go a few miles at decent speed and wont break. So I hope it's worth it in the end! I'll post pictures of the build once I get the parts.

 

[RomeoEG]

Your batteries, ESC and r/c receiver will all fit in that case? 200mm long 35mm high… 4 3s packs?

 

[Tallahau]

Your batteries, ESC and r/c receiver will all fit in that case? 200mm long 35mm high… 4 3s packs?

No no, just 2 packs side by side and the ESC in front of them. The other two I'll keep in my backpack so I can just swap them. Was thinking of 2 6s batteries but it would get too thick and I want a low profile longboard.

 

[RomeoEG]

If you're going with 2x3s packs then you either have 3s 10Ah (in parallel) or 6s 5Ah (series).. but not 6s 10Ah. With 5Ah count on 4-7miles range as opposed to the 9-12 that I think you were hoping for with 10Ah

 

[RomeoEG]

Unless of course you plan to just carry the second set and swap batteries which a lot of people choose to do.

EDIT: re-reading your post, I think thats what you plan to do

 

[Tallahau]

Unless of course you plan to just carry the second set and swap batteries which a lot of people choose to do.

EDIT: re-reading your post, I think thats what you plan to do

Yup, 2x3s á 5 Ah in series in the board and then two extra 3s 5 Ah in the backpack

 

[Tallahau]

Finally 4 out of 5 packages has arrived! Only the mount parts from Alien drive left. Looked something like this on my desk earlier:

Soldered some 4mm contacts to the ESC, hooked everything up to a fully charged 3s 5000 mAh battery and started the transmitter. And to my surprise, everything worked!!

I have one thing I wonder though, my soldering skills aren't the best but I managed to attach all contacts and they are firmly attached, tried tearing them off but they sit firmly. Is there any possibility that despite they sitting firmly could have too little or too bad contact with the 4mm bullet connector and create some bottleneck?